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You'll need big arms to take 2mm off in one go with a hand plane. You need to need to set the plane to take of thin smooth shavings. Keep planing these thin shavings off until you have a 2mm gap between door/frame (this should be enough for primer/undercoat/gloss to seal the door edge & still have a clear gap to open/shut easily.
OK thank you. think I'll back it off to just a thinner slice. hoping not to have to go down to bare wood
gonna be raining Saturday so it will be a good day to judge how much shaving is required. worst case scenario, I bought a heat gun
 
You'll need big arms to take 2mm off in one go with a hand plane. You need to need to set the plane to take of thin smooth shavings. Keep planing these thin shavings off until you have a 2mm gap between door/frame (this should be enough for primer/undercoat/gloss to seal the door edge & still have a clear gap to open/shut easily.

hi, thanks again for suggesting a small plane. it worked very well. when I got close to the top & bottom I used a paint scrapper & utility knife. took down the high spots, found a cpl little nails to bang back in further, & worked it until both surfaces were even, level & smooth & I was happy with the functioning. it was a nice rainy day, so good to test the adjustments. finished with a fine sanding block. then applied a very thin coat of ceiling paint / primer. it's what I had handy & fresh. since it was a rainy day, I used the heat gun, paper towels & my hands to get it all thin & dry. now the door works just like I remember it should. not sticking anymore & one doesn't have to tug on it to get it open. I might add another very thin layer of paint for coverage, at a later date, not quite sure
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painted door jam.jpg


heat gun drying paint.jpg

now I might start on the house's exterior trim work, windows & a cpl shutters ... or maybe not. that house needs so much work. my elderly parents neglected so many things. & as I take a closer look around I see DIY repairs by my Dad
 
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any plumbers in the group?
next up, shower valve
the drip from the tub faucet has turned into a leak from the valve
I bought a cartridge puller thinking I might try the repair myself tonight after work
but the center screw has lots of corrosion because the middle cap fell off, so maybe I'm better off w/ a professional
a plumber replaced the cartridge maybe 5-10 years ago & I think it needs another
hoping that's all it needs but we're open to replacing the entire valve w/ new if necessary

this is how much drips out during the day while we are at work & similar overnight
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the culprit
Picture3.jpg


hoping to return this tool, but maybe I'll keep it for next time?
Picture1.jpg
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
Plumber in UK, so maybe someone more local to you may be able to help more?......however.....
It's not a valve I recognise, although I'm confident it is similar to UK valves. Often I find the spare parts are very costly and are maybe 50% of the cost of a complete new valve. This can be because the parts are 'retail' price and maybe only available from the manufacturer. A new complete valve may be financially better long-term (especially if sourced through a discount outlet eg Amazon?)
There is also the potential (if buying spares to repair) that the old parts are impossible to remove (or mating parts damaged) due to corrosion, therefore you have to buy a complete valve.
Even if you aren't confident/don't have the tools to repair the old one, you may have the tools to fit a complete valve.
Best of luck.
 
Plumber in UK, so maybe someone more local to you may be able to help more?......however.....
It's not a valve I recognise, although I'm confident it is similar to UK valves. Often I find the spare parts are very costly and are maybe 50% of the cost of a complete new valve. This can be because the parts are 'retail' price and maybe only available from the manufacturer. A new complete valve may be financially better long-term (especially if sourced through a discount outlet eg Amazon?)
There is also the potential (if buying spares to repair) that the old parts are impossible to remove (or mating parts damaged) due to corrosion, therefore you have to buy a complete valve.
Even if you aren't confident/don't have the tools to repair the old one, you may have the tools to fit a complete valve.
Best of luck.

many thanks!

thinking about options, I made a cpl calls & found a plumber who agreed to come today
turns out it was a "Simmons" not a "Moen" so a cartridge extractor was not required
there was considerable corrosion & gunk, but he was able to replace just the cartridge
he was willing to order & install, at a later date, a new trim kit, to improve appearance, but I didn't place that order, at this time
it is now functioning properly

so since I was home, I took off the drain cover, pulled out what looked like a dead cat & flushed it, so now it is no longer draining slowly

today was a two-fer! here's hoping Wifey gives me some points for getting this off the list!
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
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Me and Mrs laying 600*900 tiles in the kitchen/dining area of our cottage upgrade. We are working away from a set line where the wooden flooring will join, hence little scaffolding bridge. Will finish tiles this weekend when first lot will be cured enough to walk on.
 

welsh dragon

Thanks but no thanks. I think I'll pass.
Mr WD and I have re painted the bathroom and put new tiles on the floor. I have a new towel rail that I Will encourage Mr WD to put on tomorrow. :laugh:

We always do all the DIY ourselves. Always have because when we first got married we couldn't afford to get anyone in to do the work. We even re wired the whole house in Birmingham.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
We even re wired the whole house in Birmingham.

Though I can do wiring, its the silly building regulations/electrical testing that interfere with a smooth house sale.
 

Hicky

Guru
So, my old house that I rent out had/has a few issues brought to my attention by the tenant. Off I pop on the route home from work to have a shufty.
250 y/o 9inch solid brick construction....I lived there 17 years and know it inside and out, any and all problems I've fixed/maintained them based on experiance....it has had very few stones left unturned.

Complaints of mould on the bedroom ceilings and a bathroom light not working, the extraction fan is wired in series(no external window) to the light and has a 30min over run.
I had this issue in the past with her and low and behold the fan hadn't been working a while but she neglected to inform me.....huge indicator for the ceiling mould!

As per usual she, like a farkwit, isn't cracking windows and drying stuff on radiators....she's had it rough recently so I didn't give her the riot act.
Dehumidifier in attendance but unplugged and once I opened a window you could tell it's not been open for a while despite her weak protests.

The light switch had failed which surprised me as I've never experienced it(easy replaced in minutes). Into the loft to video the "damp" so she knows I'm not blagging her....zero evidence from above on the rear elevation and a little to the front.
On further searching for the cause, next door after speaking to them have got damp issues and haven't cleared their gutters, mine is lead lined theirs isn't(now booked in to do) the downspout for both properties is on the far end of next door so it backs up hence the slight issue and moss growth.
Replacement insulation ordered for the slightly damp stuff in the front elevation, I'll clean and sort the plasterwork and refit insulation......redecorate ceilings and bobs your uncle.
In summer I'll acropol(sp?) or maybe even lava20 the rear flat roof again to be proactive.
It could of been costly and worse so I'm thanking my lucky stars.
So what insulation is best(with cost being a consideration) for cold spots?.....it has to be flexible to go round hangers(could do with some extras adding) as it's a purlin construction.....standard Blown fibreglass knauff stuff???
 
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CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Ventilation is a subject and function that many many builders, building control and home owners just ignore. Ive lived in properties that had poor ventilation and as you describe condensation can be a major issue.

In recent years, I took the subject far more seriously, on my last house build, I myself fitted a whole house ventilation system whilst the building was a shell. Every wet room had extraction, every living room was fed filtered, warmed(use of heat from exhaust air), dehumified air. The system worked extremely well, temperatures were constant in all parts of the rooms and humidity controlled. When an occupant had a shower the system would detect higher humidity and ramp up the flow rates to remove this moisture, falling to idle once humidity had returned to normal.

On our old property we live in now, I have installed several constant humidity controlled extractor fans in the wet rooms and ensured inlet air is available from vents. Moisture is controlled via aircon system.
 
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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
You must have built me new house Mr Andy. It has four bathrooms (I'll never need to touch cloth again!) and all have extractors despite all having windows too. Trickle vents on all the windows too.
 
had to build a newer basement window vent
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outside.jpg


outside louvers.jpg

this replaces a former unit made from scrapyard parts. hoping the louvers help to keep it operating thru the winter, except for maybe there worst days/weeks. the previous unit had to be closed up for months

disappointed the kid at HD couldn't cut the plywood, cuz the panel saw wasn't square. shudda gone to my store. I'll clean the basement of sawdust tomorrow :whistle:

if I paint the plywood side facing out, what color should I paint it? the last plywood had really darkened w/ age & seemed OK
 
had to build a newer basement window vent
View attachment 714503

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this replaces a former unit made from scrapyard parts. hoping the louvers help to keep it operating thru the winter, except for maybe there worst days/weeks. the previous unit had to be closed up for months

disappointed the kid at HD couldn't cut the plywood, cuz the panel saw wasn't square. shudda gone to my store. I'll clean the basement of sawdust tomorrow :whistle:

if I paint the plywood side facing out, what color should I paint it? the last plywood had really darkened w/ age & seemed OK

got a fine mesh animal control vent cover, pretty close to the ideal size
IMG_6177.jpg

don't want to open that basement window any more than it is for the winter, so installed the mesh cover over the inside!
removed the screen that came w/ the fan, which was right up against the blade, has very small holes like a regular window screen & really kinda cut back on airflow
IMG_6192.jpg

this greatly increases the square footage of material the air can flow thru, making it easier, plus the holes are slightly larger
IMG_6174.jpg

def. getting better airflow
IMG_6195.jpg

thinking I can increase airflow if I open the basement window more, because I think the small opening is restricting the flow. on the test bench the flaps looked more open, but I didn't take any measurements
IMG_6186.jpg
 
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