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That fan looks identical to one I fitted last year. One thing I must do is inspect the controller for overheating; the previous (smaller) fan had a large resistor that would get very hot and scorch the plastic housing; really hoping this doesn't do similar, as it seemed a bit of a fire risk to have in my ceiling/loft.

Really happy with how quiet it is at full speed. No need for adjustment.

looks like the controller takes a cover? maybe leave the cover off? & just dust it or shop vac it once a year?
 

lazybloke

Priest of the cult of Chris Rea
Location
Leafy Surrey
looks like the controller takes a cover? maybe leave the cover off? & just dust it or shop vac it once a year?

Not sure I want exposed mains voltages in my loft!

Edit to add: There's a switch-line from the light, but also a permanent live for the run-on timer.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
New sink to fit next week in downstairs loo. Hot tap has seized (been on since house built) so weve decided to remove counter top and sink. I'll drain the system, cut the pipes and fit john guest push on tap adapters with shut off valve (current pipes don't have any. New top on vanity unit, then its a counter top round wash basin and a free standing waterfall tap at 45 degrees to basin. Flexi pipes to the existing mains pipes.

Reason for also fitting the valves is I may need to adjust flow rate on the cold tap to stop water shooting out the other side of the waterfall tap and missing the basin.
 

newts

Veteran
Location
Isca Dumnoniorum
New sink to fit next week in downstairs loo. Hot tap has seized (been on since house built) so weve decided to remove counter top and sink. I'll drain the system, cut the pipes and fit john guest push on tap adapters with shut off valve (current pipes don't have any. New top on vanity unit, then its a counter top round wash basin and a free standing waterfall tap at 45 degrees to basin. Flexi pipes to the existing mains pipes.

Reason for also fitting the valves is I may need to adjust flow rate on the cold tap to stop water shooting out the other side of the waterfall tap and missing the basin.

Fit your isolating valves where you cut into the hot & cold supplies, then you have control on all the joints you make between the isloting valves & the basin tap.
 

Hicky

Guru
First frost up in R’dale so garden tidying is the order of the day for a week or so.
I’ve got a couple of walls to paper so it’s ideal to teach no2 son how to do it.
 

Hicky

Guru
I’ve got a baxi Bermuda fire/back boiler. The top of the fire coating is becoming flakey.
It’s a bronze type of colour, what does the diyers here advise for painting/spraying products?
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
Currently off this week , so getting some decorating done . Also some exterior repairs on the outside bay window . We have small flat roof above and last deluge of rain , we had dampness coming down through we think the stone edging mortar joints .
Gave all the cracks I could see a fill up with sika flex and this morning , I’ll paint all the stone and brick with water seal . Hopefully that will be it . If not I may need to get a roofer in and strip the whole thing out .
 

Hicky

Guru
Currently off this week , so getting some decorating done . Also some exterior repairs on the outside bay window . We have small flat roof above and last deluge of rain , we had dampness coming down through we think the stone edging mortar joints .
Gave all the cracks I could see a fill up with sika flex and this morning , I’ll paint all the stone and brick with water seal . Hopefully that will be it . If not I may need to get a roofer in and strip the whole thing out .

Try a coat of cromapol or lava20 if access is easy.
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
Try a coat of cromapol or lava20 if access is easy.

Just googled that , roof was coated about 3 yrs ago . It’s not that that’s the issue . It’s the parapet stone on top I think mortar joints have cracks. Not loose just with expansion and contraction, only gap we can see
 
Shoot the edge of the door with a sharp smoothing plane till you have a 2mm gapall the way up the leading edge of the door. Then prime/paint. (

why 2mm? just bought a sweet little narrow plane. tried adjusting it to 2mm, but could only get about 1mm (maybe it's 1/5mm) of the blade to stick out. seems like a nice sized amount to start with. hoping maybe just enough to reduce the high spots, on both surfaces & maybe no paint stripping will be required
 

newts

Veteran
Location
Isca Dumnoniorum
why 2mm? just bought a sweet little narrow plane. tried adjusting it to 2mm, but could only get about 1mm (maybe it's 1/5mm) of the blade to stick out. seems like a nice sized amount to start with. hoping maybe just enough to reduce the high spots, on both surfaces & maybe no paint stripping will be required
You'll need big arms to take 2mm off in one go with a hand plane. You need to need to set the plane to take of thin smooth shavings. Keep planing these thin shavings off until you have a 2mm gap between door/frame (this should be enough for primer/undercoat/gloss to seal the door edge & still have a clear gap to open/shut easily.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Fit your isolating valves where you cut into the hot & cold supplies, then you have control on all the joints you make between the isloting valves & the basin tap.

I used compression fittings in the end. Hot had one 90 degree bend, short run of pipe then an isolating valve with the flatter end for joining to a flexi pipe for a waterfall mixer.

All went well just nipped the compression joints up a bit at a time until bone dry then new worktop, sink and tap installed tonight. Looks very smart.
 
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