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jowwy

Can't spell, Can't Punctuate....Sue Me
Any tips for reducing damp in a storage shed. I've just added 6 vents around the shed. The ply on the roof is damp from condensation. It's water tight, but it's not insulated. I suspect I could do with lining the roof with insulation to reduce that. The vents have only been in a week, but that's to increase air flow.

Are you able to vent the roof at all, or is it just wall vents???
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Are you able to vent the roof at all, or is it just wall vents???

Wall vents near the roof, and a couple lower down, but there are enough other gaps. The summer house next to it is bone dry, but that's insulated and ply lined. There is penty of air going through the storage shed (it's overlap so not air tight anyway). It's probably sweatting with temp changes. It's been up 6 months, and the roof was bone dry until the weather changed. Might look at insulation after winter. It's not helped that there is a whole car interior in there (my sons - his is now a track car). I think there is just too much in there, but it's not mine to chuck.
 

jowwy

Can't spell, Can't Punctuate....Sue Me
Wall vents near the roof, and a couple lower down, but there are enough other gaps. The summer house next to it is bone dry, but that's insulated and ply lined. There is penty of air going through the storage shed (it's overlap so not air tight anyway). It's probably sweatting with temp changes. It's been up 6 months, and the roof was bone dry until the weather changed. Might look at insulation after winter. It's not helped that there is a whole car interior in there (my sons - his is now a track car). I think there is just too much in there, but it's not mine to chuck.

Yeh temp changes can do that and the metal frame of the car will get wet with the cold and then try and vent out when it warms up…..im sure the vents will sort it.

If not, can you wire up an extractor fan in there to run for 5/10mins every few hours to help take the damp air out???
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Yeh temp changes can do that and the metal frame of the car will get wet with the cold and then try and vent out when it warms up…..im sure the vents will sort it.

If not, can you wire up an extractor fan in there to run for 5/10mins every few hours to help take the damp air out???

There is another option - solar extractor fan !. Our detatched garage get's damp if we've got temperature changes, but I use a dehumidifier in there a few times a week - just stops stuff sweatting. The garage was dry until the minus 9 before Chrsitmas, then everything was sweatting - bikes/PC monitor etc. On went the de-humidifier !
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
Ovrr the years I have switched from oil based to water based gloss or satin paint after getting utterly fed up of how quick oil based gloss yellows. I like it, icy white, generally stays so although it can often take at least two coats, quite wishy washy sometimes.
Anyway, stairs and landing, we noticed the hand rails and bannister paint is peeling and when you go at it, it peels off like dead skin, really bad, took us ages to get even remotely good base with three of us manually sanding and peeling the old stuff off.

Brought Leyland Quick Drying metal and wood satin finish this time, really thick, much better than the stuff I used before...although that's never shown peeling problems before.
Very strange, never had it before. The amount of work it caused, never want it again, all day to do one handrail, vanity panel and several uprights.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
Ovrr the years I have switched from oil based to water based gloss or satin paint after getting utterly fed up of how quick oil based gloss yellows. I like it, icy white, generally stays so although it can often take at least two coats, quite wishy washy sometimes.
Anyway, stairs and landing, we noticed the hand rails and bannister paint is peeling and when you go at it, it peels off like dead skin, really bad, took us ages to get even remotely good base with three of us manually sanding and peeling the old stuff off.

Brought Leyland Quick Drying metal and wood satin finish this time, really thick, much better than the stuff I used before...although that's never shown peeling problems before.
Very strange, never had it before. The amount of work it caused, never want it again, all day to do one handrail, vanity panel and several uprights.

I've been using a water-based satin white finish, recommended by a friend who painted his brown UPVC door with it and says it's lasted well for a few years. He said it covered well.... White over brown!..... (I haven't seen it). Anyway, he recommended it to me because I'm renovating his 60 year-old GRP caravan, and he wanted it painted with this stuff. I was sceptical, but it was his wish......... I've rollered it on, and some of it has been on without a problem, out in all weathers since last August.
It goes on easily and covers well. When using a brush it's difficult to avoid streaks, but a better quality bush maybe? With the roller it's superb. It's called Bedec Multi Surface Paint.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Fitting electric underfloor circuits for readiness for flowscreed

20230523_132556.jpg


Final steps run cables upto junction boxes and set temp probes in position
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
Always concerns me underfloor heating , had a small bit in my bathroom , last house . Failed of course just prior to selling . Probably installed wrong by me as clueless at the time . I’m guessing screeded floor means it should never be a problem ?
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
I checked the circuits literally before the flow screed went down and hopefully nothing was damaged. Today we will check them again and remove the surface residue that comes with anhaldrite concrete

Rarely does the cabling fail if it's worked for years. The contactor in the display is the weak point, burning the terminals going open circuit.
 
Changed a toilet seat to one with soft close.
Easy, just remove the old one and install the new one...2 hrs later, still cutting rusted, siezed mounts with a dremel.
 

Alex321

Guru
Location
South Wales
Changed a toilet seat to one with soft close.
Easy, just remove the old one and install the new one...2 hrs later, still cutting rusted, siezed mounts with a dremel.

I hate those soft-close ones. They take too long to close when you are waiting to flush (and you should never flush with the lid open).
 

Hicky

Guru
Doorstep stripped and repainted...once that's had another coat it will be resealed at the base(the only area the silicone seems to fail!
Part of the garden fence visible by us has had two coats(I've just got the picket fence to do(why did I put a picket fence in:wacko:)).
Grass cut, reseeded and top dressed, Roses pruned and any blackspot removed.
Patio jetwashed and I scraped out all of the joints. I've decided to repoint with an epoxy/resin type product....has anyone used the Screwfix own brand stuff...?
 
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