Fixing a puncture or replacing inner tube when dirty
- Thread starter Milena
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- The puncture -
So. I got the bike back. The photos he showed me shows a thorn on the inside sticking out and from the outside, it just looked like a bit of wood had gotten stuck between the treads. From the outside I would have never known there was a thorn. Especially not in the rain with all the muck and grit. So that's scary.
He said thorns are as hard as nails.
Many recommendations on here have been to rub your hand along the tire inside and out - but if there is something sharp, like a thorn or a shrapnel of glass, surely that would cut me?
- A new issue -
I now have a new issue since I got the bike back.
Took it for a decent ride, probably around 4 miles, and the 2nd gear makes a noise. 1st gear also but less so.
Why would it do this after just a bike clean and puncture repair?
I *think* it might be the chain rubbing against the front derailleur or might it be rubbing against the chainstay?
What is the fix?
I have photos I can include. Just charging my phone as the battery died when I went cycling. Once it's charged I will upload the pics.
Also my beautiful bike now has worn paint on the crank arm from my adidas trainers plastic logo rubbing against it :'(
What can I do to prevent this, as I am finding my feet just naturally want to stay closer to the crank arms?
Also there is slight damage to the paint on one of the chainstays - me cry. Probably from gravel getting kicked up.
Anything I can do to prevent more damage like this other than bike protection film?
- The rear brake -
My rear brake has made a squealing noise for a few weeks now. Loss of power too, which is no fun downhill.
I took it to The Canterbury Bike Project, where Steve removed the rear caliper is it called? Well the rear brake and removed the pads, sprayed them with disc brake cleaner, wiped, sanded them with sand paper, disc brake cleaner and final wipe.
Put them back in. He did all of this super fast. Maybe a bit too fast? Aka not done with enough inspection and care? IDK.
He did tell me that due to how wet the bike was, he couldn't tell anything about the brake. Such as if there was a leak of the hydraulic braking system or not within the caliper.
When I went it was pouring down with rain the whole day, so I couldn't tell if the brake was squealing or not as it doesn't squeal in the rain.
It still squeals after the bike wash today. Power loss is not as bad anymore, but I think there is a little power loss. Front brake seems a bit weird too. Like I can feel little ... IDK... bumps kinda when I use the front brake? No sounds from front of brake that are abnormal.
My LBS said £20, he would burn the pads and clean them that way.
Some research shows me that it wouldn't work. That if there is contamination of oil on the brake pads, they have to be replaced, as they are a porous material, and burning them burning them wouldn't remove all the oil... ever.
Steve from The Canterbury Bike Project (abbreviated to TCBP from now on) said pads should never be burnt as that breaks down the construction of them and they release carcinogenic fumes.
BTW, TCBP provide labor for free. They fit parts and accessories without charge. They are a charity organization that first and foremost provide kids with mechanical skills to fix bikes... I think that's what they do.
So the next step would be I believe to replace the rear brake pads, and he would just clean the rotor quickly with disc brake cleaner.
I would ask him to inspect to see if there is a slow oil leak happening in the caliper or not. IDK if he would do that, because I assume that would mean a lot of time of his would be used up? IDK.
So what is the correct solution? Also surely the rotors don't need replacing too do they?
Thank you kind people who spend time helping me. Your help is greatly appreciated
So. I got the bike back. The photos he showed me shows a thorn on the inside sticking out and from the outside, it just looked like a bit of wood had gotten stuck between the treads. From the outside I would have never known there was a thorn. Especially not in the rain with all the muck and grit. So that's scary.
He said thorns are as hard as nails.
Many recommendations on here have been to rub your hand along the tire inside and out - but if there is something sharp, like a thorn or a shrapnel of glass, surely that would cut me?
- A new issue -
I now have a new issue since I got the bike back.
Took it for a decent ride, probably around 4 miles, and the 2nd gear makes a noise. 1st gear also but less so.
Why would it do this after just a bike clean and puncture repair?
I *think* it might be the chain rubbing against the front derailleur or might it be rubbing against the chainstay?
What is the fix?
I have photos I can include. Just charging my phone as the battery died when I went cycling. Once it's charged I will upload the pics.
Also my beautiful bike now has worn paint on the crank arm from my adidas trainers plastic logo rubbing against it :'(
What can I do to prevent this, as I am finding my feet just naturally want to stay closer to the crank arms?
Also there is slight damage to the paint on one of the chainstays - me cry. Probably from gravel getting kicked up.
Anything I can do to prevent more damage like this other than bike protection film?
- The rear brake -
My rear brake has made a squealing noise for a few weeks now. Loss of power too, which is no fun downhill.
I took it to The Canterbury Bike Project, where Steve removed the rear caliper is it called? Well the rear brake and removed the pads, sprayed them with disc brake cleaner, wiped, sanded them with sand paper, disc brake cleaner and final wipe.
Put them back in. He did all of this super fast. Maybe a bit too fast? Aka not done with enough inspection and care? IDK.
He did tell me that due to how wet the bike was, he couldn't tell anything about the brake. Such as if there was a leak of the hydraulic braking system or not within the caliper.
When I went it was pouring down with rain the whole day, so I couldn't tell if the brake was squealing or not as it doesn't squeal in the rain.
It still squeals after the bike wash today. Power loss is not as bad anymore, but I think there is a little power loss. Front brake seems a bit weird too. Like I can feel little ... IDK... bumps kinda when I use the front brake? No sounds from front of brake that are abnormal.
My LBS said £20, he would burn the pads and clean them that way.
Some research shows me that it wouldn't work. That if there is contamination of oil on the brake pads, they have to be replaced, as they are a porous material, and burning them burning them wouldn't remove all the oil... ever.
Steve from The Canterbury Bike Project (abbreviated to TCBP from now on) said pads should never be burnt as that breaks down the construction of them and they release carcinogenic fumes.
BTW, TCBP provide labor for free. They fit parts and accessories without charge. They are a charity organization that first and foremost provide kids with mechanical skills to fix bikes... I think that's what they do.
So the next step would be I believe to replace the rear brake pads, and he would just clean the rotor quickly with disc brake cleaner.
I would ask him to inspect to see if there is a slow oil leak happening in the caliper or not. IDK if he would do that, because I assume that would mean a lot of time of his would be used up? IDK.
So what is the correct solution? Also surely the rotors don't need replacing too do they?
Thank you kind people who spend time helping me. Your help is greatly appreciated
This is something that happens commonly. It happens. Unless you use SPD pedals or similar and cycling shoes with cleats.
Even then it may happen.
Chainstay protectors will help, but as you are riding on gravel paths you will inevitably get some chips to the paintwork.
vickster
Legendary Member
Also there is slight damage to the paint on one of the chainstays - me cry. Probably from gravel getting kicked up.
Anything I can do to prevent more damage like this other than bike protection film?
no, use bike protection film (helicopter tape) or live with it. Bikes will get chips and marks when used in all weathers
Anything I can do to prevent more damage like this other than bike protection film?
no, use bike protection film (helicopter tape) or live with it. Bikes will get chips and marks when used in all weathers
The rear wheel has been taken out of the frame to fix the puncture.
Make sure the wheel is square between the stays, and positioned and tightened correctly.
The indexing may need some minor adjustments. Plus if the bike was washed, lube the chain, making sure it's not dripping in oil.
He lubed the chain too. I'll take it back to him to let him know of this issue. I believe it's his responsibility to ensure the bike functions as its meant to after any changes he makes right?
Also I feel before I gave it to him the drivechain was very smooth. It's not as smooth anymore when changing. Takes a little while longer to change gears compared to before to after selecting a new gear. gears.
Photos. I was on low battery so was rushing to take the photos, so not all are great.
Tire side photos taken to show information about tire that's written on the sidewalls.
Drivetrain photos to show how the chain sits in 1st gear. Look at the front derailleur.
Photos of valves that sadly aren't in focus on the valve, to show and ask why the valve is shorter than the valve on the front tire which is still the stock valve and if it matters.
Thanks
Tire side photos taken to show information about tire that's written on the sidewalls.
Drivetrain photos to show how the chain sits in 1st gear. Look at the front derailleur.
Photos of valves that sadly aren't in focus on the valve, to show and ask why the valve is shorter than the valve on the front tire which is still the stock valve and if it matters.
Thanks
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I lived for a year in a student house off Great Western Street, not far from Maine Rd as it was in the late 90s. One morning I was having my breakfast and watching the local news they were talking about a shooting in Moss Side. I didn't think much of it, until I set off for the lab and was turned round by the police at the end of our street. The shooting had been just a street further down from us
Alex321
Guru
- Location
- South Wales
That front derailleur hasn't moved quite far enough. You probably want to loosen the 'L' screw, probably by less than half a turn.
I'm not 'having a laugh'. Just because all of you have cycling knowledge, including words used in the cycling world, doesn't mean everyone does.
When referring to parts of a cycle, I have to google 'bicycle diagram' so I know what they're called. Because this isn't something that you're taught in school nor is it something most people go out of their way to learn.
And I'm right in saying no one had properly explained what the C was for. This is literally like a new language.
700x42C.
No measurements labeled on the numbers. Absurd. Who tf does that? In maths we, the British citizens, have all been taught to LABEL numbers correctly where applicable. So millimetres or centimeters etc.
Again, just because something is obvious to you, because you have knowledge about this somewhat niche area, doesn't mean everyone else does. I could talk about PC parts in some detail. Many people wouldn't have a clue what I was talking about. Especially girls.
Also note, people are updating what they've written after they've posted something, so to someone who hadn't seen that specific post BEFORE it was edited, the entire thread will seem different.
When referring to parts of a cycle, I have to google 'bicycle diagram' so I know what they're called. Because this isn't something that you're taught in school nor is it something most people go out of their way to learn.
And I'm right in saying no one had properly explained what the C was for. This is literally like a new language.
700x42C.
No measurements labeled on the numbers. Absurd. Who tf does that? In maths we, the British citizens, have all been taught to LABEL numbers correctly where applicable. So millimetres or centimeters etc.
Again, just because something is obvious to you, because you have knowledge about this somewhat niche area, doesn't mean everyone else does. I could talk about PC parts in some detail. Many people wouldn't have a clue what I was talking about. Especially girls.
Also note, people are updating what they've written after they've posted something, so to someone who hadn't seen that specific post BEFORE it was edited, the entire thread will seem different.
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But surely that shouldn't need adjusting? Isn't it that the rear tire needs to be put on correctly as that's what was moved?
Won't this damage the handles and seat? I don't want them getting scuffed up..
Not really, just put the bike on the grass verge and you'll be OK. You're more likely to damage the bike putting it on its side.
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