Clunky rear derailleur on lower gears

[Yellow Saddle]

Are you saying that cleaning the shi... off might fix it?

Yup. And if you ride that thing on a turbo, you will do well to strip it and desalt it and re-cable it and start afresh. You'll be surprised at how much damage sweat does to a bike.

Seriously, give it a good clean and show us some side-on photos of the bottom of the cassette in the gear that's giving you trouble.

 

[Ajax Bay]

campagnolo veloce rear derailleur manual

Campagnolo call the H and L screws 'B' and 'G' and what everyone (including wrigglers) knows as the 'B' screw they call the 'H' screw. See page 28 and images 10 and 11 in the linked manual. The cover for the book may be 'black'. @youngoldbloke said this in the thread linked above.

 

[Tin Pot]

campagnolo veloce rear derailleur manual

Campagnolo call the H and L screws 'B' and 'G' and what everyone (including wrigglers) knows as the 'B' screw they call the 'H' screw. See page 28 and images 10 and 11 in the linked manual. The cover for the book may be 'black'. @youngoldbloke said this in the thread linked above.

Yep, got there yesterday evening - still unclear what it puts tension on - and will be cleaning it up shortly.

 

[Milkfloat]

To my uneducated eye the hanger alignment looks a little off. That is often a reason for some cogs behaving correctly and others not.

 

[winjim]

campagnolo veloce rear derailleur manual

Campagnolo call the H and L screws 'B' and 'G' and what everyone (including wrigglers) knows as the 'B' screw they call the 'H' screw. See page 28 and images 10 and 11 in the linked manual. The cover for the book may be 'black'. @youngoldbloke said this in the thread linked above.

I don't think they actually call them "B", "G" and "H". They just label their diagrams in alphabetical order.

 

[Tin Pot]

Hokay!

It's not the H screw tensioner.

It's the bit that is part of the connection attachment to the drop out.

The bit that's snapped off has a limiter on it preventing the derailleur rotating too far forward.

Not sure what it's called to get a replacement.

 

[Tin Pot]

Ah spoke too soon. It's an RD-RE116

 

[Tin Pot]

Hmm, replacements are £22-£76 where a whole derailleur unit is £45-50!

I'll have a go moving this single bit from my spare (new) rear derailleur as the old one is functioning fine otherwise.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Campag may not have a B-tension screw, but it has a 3 year guarantee. Exercise it. Although, it may be difficult to convince the dealer that the derailer picked up so much crap in just three years.

 

[Tin Pot]

Campag may not have a B-tension screw, but it has a 3 year guarantee. Exercise it. Although, it may be difficult to convince the dealer that the derailer picked up so much crap in just three years.

You are so kind(!)

Bought in August 2013, but good to know Campag provide a three year guarantee.

The RD-RE116 appears to be held in place with a spring so I'll put in my new unit and keep this in the refurb pile.

 

[winjim]

Hokay!

It's not the H screw tensioner.

View attachment 342505

It's the bit that is part of the connection attachment to the drop out.

The bit that's snapped off has a limiter on it preventing the derailleur rotating too far forward.

Not sure what it's called to get a replacement.

No wonder your pseudo-B-screw wasn't doing anything. It needs that bit to push against to rotate the body of the mech to the correct position.

 

[Tin Pot]

So to my eye the new derailleur has the jockey wheels slightly offline, and I can't find a way to adjust them.

The upper jockey in line with the cog, the lower seems too far right.

I've adjusted the upper/lower limiters but that just moves the whole thing in sync left or right.

I took the jockey wheels apart to run the chain through (what a hassle that was, but I have little faith in breaking/reassembling chains).

I can't tighten the jockey wheels screws any further.

Thoughts?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

It is fine as it is. Campag jockeys so sit a bit skew, so your's is not unique. If it shifts, it shifts. Function, not looks.

As an aside. I see you still haven't washed behind the ears. How can you put a new jockey on a siff bike? Fix it, I can't sleep.

 

[Tin Pot]

It is fine as it is. Campag jockeys so sit a bit skew, so your's is not unique. If it shifts, it shifts. Function, not looks.

As an aside. I see you still haven't washed behind the ears. How can you put a new jockey on a siff bike? Fix it, I can't sleep.

Okay, but it was perfect on my Athena bike. ( Which is clean I'll have you know)



What's your recipe for cleaning up groupsets then?

I spent ages degreasing and scrubbing the cassette last summer and it still looked shi...unclean, and two rides later back to how it was!

To be fair I used to wash it regularly when I was commuting on it. Thought that it's indoor duties would keep it clean.

 

[mjr]

I took the jockey wheels apart to run the chain through (what a hassle that was, but I have little faith in breaking/reassembling chains).

I can't tighten the jockey wheels screws any further.

Thoughts?

To my eye, they look within tolerance but your rear view picture seems to be on the huh so it's hard to be sure. Align a steel rule across a larger cog and let's see.

Break the chain once and use a quick link to rejoin it. Makes threading it through the cogs and wheels so much easier, as long as you don't foul the jockey cage.