Climbing and Cadence...?

[ayceejay]

I think riding at a high cadence is 'learned' behaviour, in other words you have to train yourself into it. Also you will notice that when you are on a flat road with no wind to speak of, once you get up to speed there will be little resistance and your high cadence is just maintaining rather than driving. This situation changes when you reach a significant hill, if it is just a lump you can often maintain your cadence and speed with a short spell out of the saddle but once you meet the resistance of a big hill you will find it hard or impossible to just maintain momentum. Training on hills and competing there are two different things - you want to make the training hard so that your competition will not be (so mush !) One mistake is to start out too quick and get lactic acid into your legs that will slow you down .So regarding cadence on hills - train to ride a cadence (you pick the number) regardless of speed that will increase your climbing comfort so that you maintain form ready for the other side of the hill.

 

[Rob3rt]

The position does bring you more forward on the bike, so handling would be pretty good imho.

The position doesn't really bring you further forward.

Also, the latter part of your statement is counter intuitive, as you shift weight forward on a bike, handling generally becomes less stable, which is not what most would describe as being good. Given the position in questions mimics a time trial position to some degree, it might be worth considering some features of a time trial bike against your statement, such as the slacker head tube angles and/or increased amount of fork rake, these features are there to counteract the negative impact of shifting weight forward.

 

[Boon 51]

Interesting thread, here's my bob's worth..

Your cadence will also depend on your bike weight, For example climbing a hill on a 10 kilo bike is harder than a 7 kilo bike, so its easier to spin a a lighter bike.
Nobody had mentioned that so i thought I would?

 

[bpsmith]

Furthermore, lighter wheels will see more of a gain in speed, than the same weight saving elsewhere on the bike.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

Interesting thread, here's my bob's worth..

Your cadence will also depend on your bike weight, For example climbing a hill on a 10 kilo bike is harder than a 7 kilo bike, so its easier to spin a a lighter bike.
Nobody had mentioned that so i thought I would?

Because it's a load of nonsense! Cadence has nothing to do with the bike

 

[Torvi]

Because it's a load of nonsense! Cadence has nothing to do with the bike

i so agree with this post, cadence is what you can pull off not how heavy bike is, the more gears u got the longer you can keep your cadence on same level without struggling too much but once you hit last(first) gear it's only a matter of how strong your legs are, how fit you are and the distance you rode.

 

[Torvi]

also ill tell something out of my very little but still experience. if you want to train your cadence... LIMIT YOURSELF! try to ride only on inner cog no matter what's the terrain, ive learnt how to keep my cadence high cycling up to 20 miles long with average to 15mph yeah purely on 33T inner cog, if you feel that you need outer cog to go faster then... slow down! you dont want to ride fast, you want to learn how to pedal fast and those two things dosent always come in pair, learn your spinning rate, what and when you can do and then start moving on.
Im cycling 3 months, on today sportive i was beating people cycling a year+ purely out of an ability to spin fast.

 

[bpsmith]

There is a lot of merit in the above, but also merit in doing the same and grinding too. You use different muscles as well as building up the muscles you use to spin.

The bigger your muscles, the higher the gear that you can spin in any given scenario.

I plan to do some of both of these on the Turbo over the next few months.

 

[Rob3rt]

There is a lot of merit in the above, but also merit in doing the same and grinding too. You use different muscles as well as building up the muscles you use to spin.

The bigger your muscles, the higher the gear that you can spin in any given scenario.

I plan to do some of both of these on the Turbo over the next few months.

Balls.

 

[vickster]

also ill tell something out of my very little but still experience. if you want to train your cadence... LIMIT YOURSELF! try to ride only on inner cog no matter what's the terrain, ive learnt how to keep my cadence high cycling up to 20 miles long with average to 15mph yeah purely on 33T inner cog, if you feel that you need outer cog to go faster then... slow down! you dont want to ride fast, you want to learn how to pedal fast and those two things dosent always come in pair, learn your spinning rate, what and when you can do and then start moving on.
Im cycling 3 months, on today sportive i was beating people cycling a year+ purely out of an ability to spin fast.

But what cogs are you using on the back with that front ring especially when moving quickly? If the small one, time to start saving for a new chain

 

[bpsmith]

Balls.

They don't really help tbh, just get in the way.

 

[Torvi]

i start with 1st gear then steadily moving upwards, and that's why also i told about limiting yourself, if you go too fast ull only tire urself out and your bike. I have no problem really with grinding that bike, ive got it cheap and im using it to train myself, next year getting me some 10sp carbon

Anyway is chain this expensive for 7sp groupset? i doubt lol every 2 weeks complete wipe on chain and derailleur with lubing also helps to maintain it in a nice shape

WOW BLASTING 6 TO 10 POUNDS FOR SHIMANO CHAIN ON WIGGLE, YEAH ILL GO BROKE

 

[vickster]

I don't think wiping it stops the chain stretch caused by running small cogs together
And folks on here aren't deaf

 

[Torvi]

I don't think wiping it stops the chain stretch caused by running small cogs together
And folks on here aren't deaf

as said chains be pretty cheap, no big loss.

 

[vickster]

Did you? I ignored the capitals