Climbing and Cadence...?

[moo]

^^^^^
Wot 'e said.

Gearing is all down to what suits. Robbie McEwen was once asked why he didn't use lower gears on the mountains like some of the climbers. He replied that he'd tried them and it hurt just as much, but for longer as he went slower.

That's my approach. Get the pain over with quickly

 

[marzjennings]

I find the optimal cadence for me at around 20 mph is around 90 rpm.
But as my speed drops, my cadence also drops.

Then change gear. The idea is to find and maintain a cadence you're comfortable with and stick to it regardless of incline. It's only when you run out gears, then you may need to change cadence.

 

[Nigelnaturist]

I have been working on my cadence of late, and I am finding I can manage 90rpm on the climbs I do with the right gear, in fairness they are not difficult I find that at 90-95 I can pedal quite smoothly and I think thats what its about, this is where a close grouped cassette on a triple really helps.

 

[nethfel]

I know the feeling of a bad spaced cassette... My bike that I'll be replacing (other reasons to replace, not just the cassette ) currently has a 7 speed rear cassette at 14,16,18,20,22,24,34 (28/38/48 front) - unfortunately that last gap is REALLY huge and there are times where 24 feels too hard and 34 too light in the 2 chainrings I can actually use those gears in (I've gotten to the point where I only use the 38 and 48, but am willing to drop to the 28 if I need to). The bike I'm planning on getting (I say planning because I may change my mind when I finally get a chance to test ride it) has in the lowest 25,28,32 which I think I'll be much happier with (front chainrings 34/50).

 

[morrisman]

Too low a cadence = run out of legs
Too high a cadence = run out of lungs

Happy medium = ride on flat roads

 

[nethfel]

Too low a cadence = run out of legs
Too high a cadence = run out of lungs

Happy medium = ride on flat roads

ROFL I wish. Unless I drive my bike somewhere to ride, I have to go up/down hills, even smaller ones

 

[Nigelnaturist]

I know the feeling of a bad spaced cassette... My bike that I'll be replacing (other reasons to replace, not just the cassette ) currently has a 7 speed rear cassette at 14,16,18,20,22,24,34 (28/38/48 front) - unfortunately that last gap is REALLY huge and there are times where 24 feels too hard and 34 too light in the 2 chainrings I can actually use those gears in (I've gotten to the point where I only use the 38 and 48, but am willing to drop to the 28 if I need to). The bike I'm planning on getting (I say planning because I may change my mind when I finally get a chance to test ride it) has in the lowest 25,28,32 which I think I'll be much happier with (front chainrings 34/50).

Not saying owt

I have a front 50/38/26 with a 12-27 rear, I could gear the back with a 12-23 (12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23) and still have a 29" low gear

 

[nethfel]

Not saying owt

Well, those are the stock compact chainrings. (34/50) It's a wider gap on the front compared to my current bike, but the rear cassette w/ 11 seems to be a bit more flexible. Right now my main concern is comfort with the ride position which I just don't feel on my hybrid (I don't think I really like the hybrid riding position)

 

[Trevor_P]

From what I understand, There is an optimum cadence that allows you to make the best use of your individual power to weight ratio. It might not be exactly 90, but it'll be in that ballpark. Too low and you expend more energy to cover the same distance, leaving you more tired. As you get fitter/lighter, the number is likely to get nearer to 90. But in the beginning it will be less than that. I've seen people almost stalling on hills, unable to maintain a rhythm because they have too low a cadence due to selecting too high a gear. Pushing a higher gear uphill can give your muscles a good workout, but it needs to be a sensible higher gear and not something that won't let you keep a smooth rhythm going.

 

[Steppylud]

How fast do you ride on the flat, and how steep are the hills you are talking about?

(If you ride quite quickly on the flat, but struggle on moderate hills then I would say you are overgeared for the climbs. If you are slow on the flat then you just aren't fit enough for the hills - yet!)

Most definitely the latter! On flat I average 13-14mph

 

[Nigelnaturist]

@nethfel I run a 50x12 giving 109" (700x23c) and I only ever spin out above 35mph down hill.
I averaged 89rpm on this ride, its bit broken as I called in to see a friend.

http://www.strava.com/activities/208793037
This segment, though not a difficult climb I managed 88rpm

Which worked out to be an average gear of 42.3" or a 38x23 or 24, and I can still drop to the 26 inner for really difficult climbs, but its also useful for longer sustained climbs as it has a usable range from 25-48" but better cadence control

 

[ColinJ]

Most definitely the latter! On flat I average 13-14mph

Oh well ...stick at it and the hills will soon start to feel easier!

 

[cyberknight]

Well, those are the stock compact chainrings. (34/50) It's a wider gap on the front compared to my current bike, but the rear cassette w/ 11 seems to be a bit more flexible. Right now my main concern is comfort with the ride position which I just don't feel on my hybrid (I don't think I really like the hybrid riding position)

I use a 50/36 , works fine for me

@nethfel I run a 50x12 giving 109" (700x23c) and I only ever spin out above 35mph down hill.

I dont hit 50x 12 till about 30+ mph , on my commute i regularly ride at 27 mph down a long drag and i use 50x 13 for that .

 

[Nigelnaturist]

@cyberknight you must spin quicker than me, a 50x12 is 109.6" @ 100rpm is 32.62mph, I can spin quicker up to 110 which is 35.88mph, and a little beyond.

 

[cyberknight]

@cyberknight you must spin quicker than me, a 50x12 is 109.6" @ 100rpm is 32.62mph, I can spin quicker up to 110 which is 35.88mph, and a little beyond.

I had a look at my cruising gear of 50 x17 i ride at around 21 mph , gives just over 90 rpm so spot on , down hills i spin faster as its less resistance .