T4tomo
Legendary Member
There are a couple of other really
long threads on this, use the search function and all the info / experience you need is there
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Chain Waxers get in here plz!
- Thread starter fraz101
- Start date
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There are a couple of other really
long threads on this, use the search function and all the info / experience you need is there
Hacienda71
Mancunian in self imposed exile in leafy Cheshire
- Location
- Wilmslow, Cheshire
I changed to Squirt Lube about a year ago. No more black mucky crap on the chain. Wear is much better as well.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
How? I thought it was very helpful and reasonable, unlike mine.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Thank you Mr Duck. I think I added rather more value that your topic-worthless view.
This is CycleChat - not "ask me/us anything": so expect 'chat' and don't moan about it (goes for you too @fraz101 ). If you don't 'like' the chat, ignore it. Don’t read and don't reply - does the OP think they 'own' this thread? (It's Shaun's.)
Am proud of daughter's racing exploits with @Muc off waxed chains: minutes (over 100 miles) really matter (win/podium).
Reiterating 'added value' points:
Ask Q in the TT sub-forum: most of them will be 'wakers'.
Using a clean rag for mickling (rather than a 'dirty' one) might help the OP. A quick oil and wipe more frequently ("constantly"
) than weekly might also help.Cleaning the chain meticulously, as others have said too, is a vital element in this lubrication option. Personally I do this once in the life of a chain eg at 1100km. But it's a faff and a half.
I think this well written and comprehensive article, which I checked during research before my original comment, provides all the info the OP could possibly need. I note the author is the ONLY one in a bike-nerd heavy environment who chooses this lubrication method. https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/how-to-wax-a-chain/
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GuyBoden
Guru
- Location
- Warrington
I wax my chain too, but I won't discuss it on this forum, too much negativity here.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
Who'd a thought so many could get their knickers in a twist over something so mundane as lubing a chain.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
Metaflux 70-88 chain cling spray does the job for me. Proper industrial stuff designed for heavily loaded machine parts. Use it at work and it's probably OTT for a pedal bike chain but it must be good gear because I get years more service out of ratty old chains found on skip bikes.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
You is doing it all wrong then.
vickster
Legendary Member
There’s quite a long thread on the subject here
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/adventures-in-ocd-todays-chain-waxing.267107/
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/adventures-in-ocd-todays-chain-waxing.267107/
Funny how hostile some people can get when someone dares to express an opinion that falls outside the prescribed groupthink; sadly something that's rife in wider society too - much to our collective detriment 
I'm a convert to waxing, as per my thread that Vicky's kindly posted above
While it was the efficiency angle that drew me in, I stayed for the clean drivetrain and seemingly enormous boost in component longevity.
I chose not to use PTFE for the environmental issues relating to its production and disposal; using Moly powder instead. However, I think this was un-necessary and added a disproportionate cost relative to the wax / liquid paraffin on its own, so would take this route in future.
There is no cleaning regime per se, as it's not really necessary since very little sticks to the dry-lubed chain. You want to re-wax the chain before it starts to squeak - with 300 miles being an appropriate point for me; not sure how stronger / heavier riders would fare. At this point the chain's just removed from the bike, put on the hanger, dropped in the pot and agitated for a few minutes, partially cooled, removed, fully cooled and refitted. I have multiple chains and leave waxing until I have at least two to do to minimise the sunk time involved in setup / process / cleanup (which really isn't terrible anyway).
Functionally the only downside is it's crap at protecting the chain from corrosion; if it gets wet I'll often chuck it in a tray in the oven at maybe 60 degrees which drives out the water and re-distributes the wax; potentially prolonging the time before a re-wax is necessary. I'm a fair-weather cyclist so can appreciate how this process might not be ideal for the more utilitarian rider who's out in all weathers.
Waxing arguably requires more gear than "traditional" methods of lubrication, but in my case both the setup and ongoing costs were / are next-to-nothing and I suspect it will more than pay for itself when chains, cassettes and chainrings last 2-3 times as long as they otherwise would have.
People claim that it's too much hassle and messy; however on both fronts I find it infinitely preferable to trying to clean a drivertrain with degreaser (another cost) and a brush; countless disposible cloths or those crappy little plastic devices you wind the chain through in the vain hope it's actually getting it clean.. while the areas between the links remain full of a lovely mix of oil, degreaser and abrasive particles. I imagine it might even take less time than having to deep-clean the whole drivetrain regularly; but maybe seems worse as all the time is in the prep rather than remedial / more immediately necessary action.
The on-bike cleanliness is also a big win - funnily enough a neighbour recently remarked on how clean my drivetrain was (true story - he's also a cyclist
) and asked if I'd just cleaned it - my response being that other than re-waxing the chain periodically it'd seen zero attention for two years / 3.5k miles 
I'm a convert to waxing, as per my thread that Vicky's kindly posted above
While it was the efficiency angle that drew me in, I stayed for the clean drivetrain and seemingly enormous boost in component longevity.
I chose not to use PTFE for the environmental issues relating to its production and disposal; using Moly powder instead. However, I think this was un-necessary and added a disproportionate cost relative to the wax / liquid paraffin on its own, so would take this route in future.
There is no cleaning regime per se, as it's not really necessary since very little sticks to the dry-lubed chain. You want to re-wax the chain before it starts to squeak - with 300 miles being an appropriate point for me; not sure how stronger / heavier riders would fare. At this point the chain's just removed from the bike, put on the hanger, dropped in the pot and agitated for a few minutes, partially cooled, removed, fully cooled and refitted. I have multiple chains and leave waxing until I have at least two to do to minimise the sunk time involved in setup / process / cleanup (which really isn't terrible anyway).
Functionally the only downside is it's crap at protecting the chain from corrosion; if it gets wet I'll often chuck it in a tray in the oven at maybe 60 degrees which drives out the water and re-distributes the wax; potentially prolonging the time before a re-wax is necessary. I'm a fair-weather cyclist so can appreciate how this process might not be ideal for the more utilitarian rider who's out in all weathers.
Waxing arguably requires more gear than "traditional" methods of lubrication, but in my case both the setup and ongoing costs were / are next-to-nothing and I suspect it will more than pay for itself when chains, cassettes and chainrings last 2-3 times as long as they otherwise would have.
People claim that it's too much hassle and messy; however on both fronts I find it infinitely preferable to trying to clean a drivertrain with degreaser (another cost) and a brush; countless disposible cloths or those crappy little plastic devices you wind the chain through in the vain hope it's actually getting it clean.. while the areas between the links remain full of a lovely mix of oil, degreaser and abrasive particles. I imagine it might even take less time than having to deep-clean the whole drivetrain regularly; but maybe seems worse as all the time is in the prep rather than remedial / more immediately necessary action.
The on-bike cleanliness is also a big win - funnily enough a neighbour recently remarked on how clean my drivetrain was (true story - he's also a cyclist
) and asked if I'd just cleaned it - my response being that other than re-waxing the chain periodically it'd seen zero attention for two years / 3.5k miles
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OP
OP
fraz101
Senior Member
Funny how hostile some people can get when someone dares to express an opinion that falls outside the prescribed groupthink; sadly something that's rife in wider society too - much to our collective detriment
I'm a convert to waxing, as per my thread that Vicky's kindly posted above
While it was the efficiency angle that drew me in, I stayed for the clean drivetrain and seemingly enormous boost in component longevity.
I chose not to use PTFE for the environmental issues relating to its production and disposal; using Moly powder instead. However, I think this was un-necessary and added a disproportionate cost relative to the wax / liquid paraffin on its own, so would take this route in future.
There is no cleaning regime per se, as it's not really necessary since very little sticks to the dry-lubed chain. You want to re-wax the chain before it starts to squeak - with 300 miles being an appropriate point for me; not sure how stronger / heavier riders would fare. At this point the chain's just removed from the bike, put on the hanger, dropped in the pot and agitated for a few minutes, partially cooled, removed, fully cooled and refitted. I have multiple chains and leave waxing until I have at least two to do to minimise the sunk time involved in setup / process / cleanup (which really isn't terrible anyway).
Functionally the only downside is it's crap at protecting the chain from corrosion; if it gets wet I'll often chuck it in a tray in the oven at maybe 60 degrees which drives out the water and re-distributes the wax; potentially prolonging the time before a re-wax is necessary. I'm a fair-weather cyclist so can appreciate how this process might not be ideal for the more utilitarian rider who's out in all weathers.
Waxing arguably requires more gear than "traditional" methods of lubrication, but in my case both the setup and ongoing costs were / are next-to-nothing and I suspect it will more than pay for itself when chains, cassettes and chainrings last 2-3 times as long as they otherwise would have.
People claim that it's too much hassle and messy; however on both fronts I find it infinitely preferable to trying to clean a drivertrain with degreaser (another cost) and a brush; countless disposible cloths or those crappy little plastic devices you wind the chain through in the vain hope it's actually getting it clean.. while the areas between the links remain full of a lovely mix of oil, degreaser and abrasive particles. I imagine it might even take less time than having to deep-clean the whole drivetrain regularly; but maybe seems worse as all the time is in the prep rather than remedial / more immediately necessary action.
The on-bike clenliness is also a big win - funnily enough a neighbour remarked on how clean my drivetrain was (true story - he's also a cyclist
You win the prize for most helpful reply.
Thank you
lol - no worries! Nice to be able to help somone who's similarly enthusiastic about this polarising subject
Keep us informed as to how you get on
I’ve been hearing about waxing on the cycle systems and nerd alert podcasts, and the testing their guests have done seem to suggest it’s a no-brainier. We’ve a redundant half working slow cooker so I’m on the verge of having a go. Certainly on the best bike and might see how it is on the commuter. Might use immersion & squirt for that one. First though I need to get enough chains and reusable links! It’d be nice if both bikes used the same length, but they don’t.
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OP
OP
fraz101
Senior Member
Got round to doing my first chain wax last night.
Took quite a while with the thorough cleaning process that is required to enable the wax to adhere to rollers etc.
Also had to reheat the wax before removing as it had gone a little too thick when removed but got there in the end.
First ride today of 72 miles on it and straight away I noticed the difference in shifting,much sharper and smoother chain run on the cogs.
Home and not a spec of dirt to be seen.
So far so good,the test will be how long it can last.
I’m quite pleased and definitely glad I have it a shot
Took quite a while with the thorough cleaning process that is required to enable the wax to adhere to rollers etc.
Also had to reheat the wax before removing as it had gone a little too thick when removed but got there in the end.
First ride today of 72 miles on it and straight away I noticed the difference in shifting,much sharper and smoother chain run on the cogs.
Home and not a spec of dirt to be seen.
So far so good,the test will be how long it can last.
I’m quite pleased and definitely glad I have it a shot
