Carrera TDF. Conversion to Triple crank

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Usmaan Jamil

Well-Known Member
Location
London
Hello everybody,
I'm new to the forum so apologies for any rookie mistakes I make whilst creating this post and describing my problem. I am also new to cycling and on a tight budget. To make things even more frustrating for all of you pros out there I have a "limited" amount of cycling knowledge. Enough about my inexperience... I'll get to the point.

Today I went out a 100km cycle ride with my friend who owns a Triban 3 with the triple chainset (24 gears). I live in a very hilly area near Warlingham in Croydon and the hills are a pain in the arse to climb. They're very steep and very long (for a newbie). To make things worse I've got the Carrera TDF. Don't get me wrong its a fantastic bike but I can't help but thinking its a bit over geared (16 gears). I would say I have a relatively high fitness level but honestly I was on the verge of collapsing after some of the hills we climbed. This has made me wonder if it is possible to "add" gears to my bike to give it a lower lowest gear. My Carrera has got the Shimano Claris groupset (the new 2013 one) with the double crank. I would like to change this crank to a triple one. I thought I may have to change the front derailleur however I have looked on the Shimano website and it says that it is compatible with all cranks. I also need to change the crank (duh!) and have found one on ebay for 50 quid as well as changing the left shifter to a triple crank compatible one, (I may sell the double shifters and buy the triple ones from wiggle) I think I have read somewhere that you dont need to change the rear derailleur but it is advisable. Is there anything else I need to change or any advice anyone could give me? I know a lot of people will say to get a new bike as the TDF is relatively low end but really I would rather not.

Thanks for all the replies and again sorry for my lack of cycling knowledge!
 

Sappho96

Regular
Hey usmaan, try looking into a compact crank instead. Easier gears than the double you have but minus the faff/cost of changing to a triple.

Hope this helps....would write more but need to sleep!
 

Hacienda71

Mancunian in self imposed exile in leafy Cheshire
Compact crank will mean you can use the same shifters. With a triple you would need to change more components. You could also look at a new rear cassette with larger lowest gear. You might need to change the chain at the same time. Most road mechs will take a 28 tooth max rear, best to check though.
 
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Usmaan Jamil

Well-Known Member
Location
London
Thanks for the replies! I agree a compact crank will probably be better (and less expensive) however I'm not really sure how it works. If someone could explain I'd be very grateful.
 

Hacienda71

Mancunian in self imposed exile in leafy Cheshire
A compact crank is simply a double crank with a smaller inner ring than a standard double that the TDF comes with. Normally a 34 or 36 tooth inner cog. It would probably be a straight swap with some minor adjustments to limit screws. You will need appropriate tools to do the change yourself. These normally are found in a full bike tool kit which retail for a round £30 in places like Decathlon and Halfords and are a wise long term investment if you decide to do the basic maintenance on the bike yourself.
Compacts are imho a half way house between a triple and a standard double (I have both). It would though almost definitely be cheaper than buying a triple crank new shifters and probably a new rear mech.
 
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Location
Pontefract
You cant fit a compact 34th ring on a full double crankset they dont make them that small, but to be sure you need to measure the B.C.D. to measure it measure centre bolt to centre bolt like this
measure-bcd.jpg


If it measures 76.4mm (130mm B.C.D.) its a full double chainset, and you will need a new one as compact doubles are 110mm B.C.D. ( I believe) or 64.7mm bolt centre to bolt centre.
The easiest way to get lower gears would be to change the rear mech to something that can accommodate a rear cassette up to 32th M.T.B. mechs fit ( I use an Acera though I don't usually go as high as 32th rear as I have a triple), depending on the front inner ring you can bring that down to 38th if yours is bigger this will help a little.
So with your front at 38/52 (or what ever the outer is. and a rear cassette range from 11/32 you could have a gear " range from 124" to 31"
An Acera costs about £20 (you can fit better or the new road mech do up to 32th but check before you buy)
You can get different ratios this one HG51 (£15-20 I think) can be had in range from 11-28, 11-30, 11-32, I make up my own so I start at 13 and end at 28 on my triple.
Inner rings can be had from £15 upwards, Spa cycles in harrogate have quite a selection. This option would give you the same gearing as my low 2 which is pretty low at 31" though I think the the 52x11 is on the long side, so making up your own maybe a better option, and start at 13.
Converting to a triple would be expensive as outlined above, new shifters (you might drop on a left triple on ebay to match your set, I got an 8sp for £17 to upgrade from 7sp to 8sp), than a new crankset from about £60, but you could probably then keep your rear mech as this is likely to do 28th (again you would need to check) and a new front triple mech on ebay for a sora about £15. The triple however would give you much better ratio options on the rear.
The cassette I mentioned above would give you this on a 38/52 front
gears 1.JPG

My setup is
gears 2.JPG

As you can see from the above what I suggest you can do has rather big ratios. You may find the 38x28 maybe low enough I use my 30x21 as its the same as my 40x28 but has more options.

Hope this helps.
 

Linford

Guest
Drop your mileage and go for hill training, You won't need to mess with the gearing if you focus on the hills for a few weeks.
 
Location
Pontefract
Drop your mileage and go for hill training, You won't need to mess with the gearing if you focus on the hills for a few weeks.
Took me six months at least to be happy with what I have to climb, and its not that much really avg of about 47ft a mile. Max is usally only about 60ft, but it does depend on mileage.
 

Linford

Guest
Took me six months at least to be happy with what I have to climb, and its not that much really avg of about 47ft a mile. Max is usally only about 60ft, but it does depend on mileage.
I'm not yet 'happy' with mine, but this is my training ride, I can do it without stopping, and I've only regularly been back in the saddle since the end of July...it is a killer though...make no mistake about it :biggrin:

training-ride-png.31100.png
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
My Carrera has got the Shimano Claris groupset (the new 2013 one) with the double crank.

I don't have spec info on the 2013 Carrera TDF, but it would seem the Claris chainset only comes as a Compact (i.e. 50/34) as a double in any case? If so the most economic and straightforward way to downgear the bike by far is to change the cassette to something up to 32T (the official limit of the Claris rear mech) and get a new, longer chain. Since we are talking about 8 speed, both parts can be bought for no more than £20 in total.
 
Location
Pontefract
I'm not yet 'happy' with mine, but this is my training ride, I can do it without stopping, and I've only regularly been back in the saddle since the end of July...it is a killer though...make no mistake about it :biggrin:

training-ride-png.31100.png
I got to ride 20-25 miles before i even approach anything like that.
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
I don't have spec info on the 2013 Carrera TDF, but it would seem the Claris chainset only comes as a Compact (i.e. 50/34) as a double in any case? If so the most economic and straightforward way to downgear the bike by far is to change the cassette to something up to 32T (the official limit of the Claris rear mech) and get a new, longer chain. Since we are talking about 8 speed, both parts can be bought for no more than £20 in total.
+1 - but does the TDF have a Claris Chainset (btw, sorry to be pedantic but a crank is the long bit with the pedal on the end. The big round things with teeth are chainrings. Put them together and you have a chainset . Or crankset if you're in the US. :thumbsup:) Often bikes will be described as having such and such a groupset (Google it!), when they only have the named brand front and rear mechs and shifters. Count the teeth on the chainrings - if they are 50 and 34, you have a standard 'compact' chainset.
 

Doyleyburger

Veteran
Location
NCE West Wales
Drop your mileage and go for hill training, You won't need to mess with the gearing if you focus on the hills for a few weeks.
Would have to agree. I live in west wales and you can't go anywhere without going up a hill.... I also have the TDF and found it difficult in the beginning but over the last few months it's got a lot easier!
Keep going at them mate, you'll be fine..... Honestly there is no need to change........
But hey it's only my opinion.
All the best
 

Linford

Guest
If you split the challenge down into manageable chunks, they you can increase the challenges in time. If you pick Everest as your first climb, don't be surprised if you fail.
 
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