Carbon Clinchers
- Thread starter xxmimixx
- Start date
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fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Ones that say 'carbon specific' on the packaging. Best sticking to the main manufacturers and not cheap pads.
I have some HED Jets that are over 15 years old that are probably about 80mm deep on Tubs. I only ever used them for TT's. Depends upon where you live, but if you are riding in hills where it's windy, deep sections aren't the best (I'll exclude Zipp etc as they do some serious research into aerodynamics).
If the rims are just for 'cosmetic' purposes (i.e. not racing) then I'd not bother, I'd just get some handbuilts, Mavic Ksyrium SL's or Fulcrum racing zero's instead.
simon.r
Person
- Location
- Nottingham
Not a comment on the wheels, but service from Planet X is generally very good. I've bought wheels from them in the past and they've arrived promptly and very well packaged.
Monsieur Remings
Guru
- Location
- Yatton UK
I have some 60mm and they're okay mate - with aluminium braking surface. I have to say that I only tend to use the rear and if I could have a choice again I'd go for a 46mm or less...60mm is a lot of section depending on what you use them for...?
Uphill they weigh the same as my aluminium Ksyrium Elites so the theory goes uphill, if you're going carbon then go for much less section because it weighs less than more section. For TT and flat riding they're faster for sure but they can be a hindrance on a descent, especially with a crosswind.
If I buy carbon deep sections again they will be tubulars and the reason for this is simple - the carbon clinchers are great for all round-use but these wheels don't necessarily add much to all round use if that makes sense having the advantages and disadvantages I list above which are specific. I would want them for competition and so tubulars every time make sense given they are lighter and faster. Saying this, they (tubulars) are not ideal for everyday use due to the hassle involved if you do get a puncture but when you're racing if you get a puncture it's game over anyway, so why not use the faster option.
Think about what you want them for but I would say if you want them just for general riding don't go as deep as 60mm - 38 or 46mm instead because they'll be more versatile.
OP
OP
xxmimixx
Senior Member
- Location
- a different place on earth...
Hi MR,
I am going to use the aero wheels for TT's and Triathlons only. So I supposed I would have to choose some with alu rims so that I can use both my training and racing wheels without effecting the brake pads.
My thinking behind Clincher was that if I had a puncture I know it would effect my times but I would still complete it after fixing the puncture. And dont have to go through the palava of gluing and taking the wheel apart.
But you make a valid point that if the Clincher is good for all rounder and Tubs for racing then that changes the perspective a bit. And tubs are a little cheaper as more readily available.
How would you handle a puncture on a Tub during a race?
How often would you need to buy a new tyre?
Thanks
Monsieur Remings
Guru
- Location
- Yatton UK
I'm not the ideal person to ask about tubs per se but in regards to a race, it would be game over the same as it would be if you had a clincher on. However quick you are at replacing a tube on a clincher or repairing a tub, you won't 'get back on' so the race is effectively over for you if that makes sense.
OP
OP
xxmimixx
Senior Member
- Location
- a different place on earth...
Thankfully I never had a p. during a race so far, however I was prepared to change the inner tube if that happens even at the cost of a very slow time as when I enter and event I want to complete it! So with clinc you can change the inner tube but with Tubs?
With tubs you can pour in some sealant, e.g. TUFO Extreme, pump up again and if you're lucky go. If not lucky, pump again and go. If really unlucky, change tub.
In any case once you have a puncture, you're out of the running. If you are racing on a circuit, a flat tub lets you roll around (slowly) back to the start area, where if you were prepared, you will have a spare wheel which you can put on and then hop back on with the bunch next time they come around. That way you get to finish, albeit way down the order. You also get the training benefit.
With a flat clincher, you need to either change where you are, or walk back...
Personally, I have researched carbon wheels for my next step towards world domination (or bank balance lightening) and if funds allow will go with ENVE tubs. If not then I'll get some Gigantex tubular rims built up from Wheelsmith or similar. Powertap G3 in either case.
Carbon clinchers just seem really compromised from a weight/braking performance/durability perspective.
All of the above assumes we are talking road racing BTW.
Of course, the sensible thing is just to get alloy tubs. With Powertap.
In any case once you have a puncture, you're out of the running. If you are racing on a circuit, a flat tub lets you roll around (slowly) back to the start area, where if you were prepared, you will have a spare wheel which you can put on and then hop back on with the bunch next time they come around. That way you get to finish, albeit way down the order. You also get the training benefit.
With a flat clincher, you need to either change where you are, or walk back...
Personally, I have researched carbon wheels for my next step towards world domination (or bank balance lightening) and if funds allow will go with ENVE tubs. If not then I'll get some Gigantex tubular rims built up from Wheelsmith or similar. Powertap G3 in either case.
Carbon clinchers just seem really compromised from a weight/braking performance/durability perspective.
All of the above assumes we are talking road racing BTW.
Of course, the sensible thing is just to get alloy tubs. With Powertap.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
If racing and TT's then tubs. Just carry a spare tub to get you home. As this lot says, puncture and you are out. What's the point of recording a time that's 10 minutes down on what you can usually do.
PS I've never punctured a tub in a race. It's rare, but best carry a spare ! You might as well get maximum advantage with tubs for racing - lighter rims, and better rolling tyres.
Day to day/sportives etc, then stick with clinchers.
PS I've never punctured a tub in a race. It's rare, but best carry a spare ! You might as well get maximum advantage with tubs for racing - lighter rims, and better rolling tyres.
Day to day/sportives etc, then stick with clinchers.
OP
OP
xxmimixx
Senior Member
- Location
- a different place on earth...
Thanks Vamp and Fossyant, makes perfect sense , tubs it will be then :-)
Herzog
Swinglish Mountain Goat
- Location
- Bern, Switzerland
A good decision!!
Rob3rt
Man or Moose!
- Location
- Manchester
With tubs you can change them over pretty rapid, probably faster than swapping an inner tube, the biggest struggle will be pulling the punctured one off. A pre glued tub will go on and stay on for you to "get home" as long as you don't go diving into corners like a lunatic.
Also, you can tape the tub on rather than glue if you want, it is quicker and less messy, but not suitable for all uses! I use tape for time trialling.
Also, you can tape the tub on rather than glue if you want, it is quicker and less messy, but not suitable for all uses! I use tape for time trialling.
Herzog
Swinglish Mountain Goat
- Location
- Bern, Switzerland
Which situations would you not use taped tubs? I ask because I only use taped wheels, for everything (wet/dry/TTs/RRs).
Rob3rt
Man or Moose!
- Location
- Manchester
Track mainly (not allowed anyway). Might have reservations about crit racing on taped tubs too.
