Car D.I.Y.

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
button cluster on the driver's door. 2014 Jeep Cherokee. tried a cheap unit off Amazon that only partially worked. returned that & got a legit Mopar unit for considerably more. fix the problem with having to wiggle the driver's window button to get it up. also now the auto-up works again. the re-programming procedure didn't work. replacing the whole cluster did the trick
pry.jpg

two connectors, easy peasy
connectors.jpg

never had a set of window buttons fail before. I may be a window over-user. surprised they are so reliable. at least replacing them was easy
final.jpg
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
button cluster on the driver's door. 2014 Jeep Cherokee. tried a cheap unit off Amazon that only partially worked. returned that & got a legit Mopar unit for considerably more. fix the problem with having to wiggle the driver's window button to get it up. also now the auto-up works again. the re-programming procedure didn't work. replacing the whole cluster did the trick
View attachment 635197
two connectors, easy peasy
View attachment 635198
never had a set of window buttons fail before. I may be a window over-user. surprised they are so reliable. at least replacing them was easy
View attachment 635199
It is my experience that electric windows give less trouble than their manual predecessors.
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
I had a plan to fit a USB charging socket in place of the cigarette lighter as I find those adapters never stay in place so bought something suitable from ebay surprisingly cheaply.

What I've found is that it has a big blue light in it even with nothing plugged into it so I will have to fit a switch or else find a power source controlled by the ignition switch but can't really be bothered dismantling the dashboard to find one:angry:
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
Happy to report the car is running well, and just got an MPG record on the way to our caravan, 45.4mpg, running on super unleaded. Worth the extra as E10 gets less than 40mpg.
Which echoed my experience, around a 10:% increase in fuel consumption with E10. Lying b'stards and their 2 % calculation.
I stick with E5 now, better for GDI engines anyway.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Happy to report the car is running well, and just got an MPG record on the way to our caravan, 45.4mpg, running on super unleaded. Worth the extra as E10 gets less than 40mpg.

Got over 44 mpg on the way back as well, steady 60 mph on the motorway (and uphill). Must report the car is not worse for wear with the misfire/dodgy sensor - all fixed and running well, panic station over. E5 normal would get low 40's if I took it careful, so E5 Super wasn't worth it, but the drop with E10, is worth popping in the Super these days. I've never seen plus 40 mpg on the way home, and today was cross/head winds (also 10am from Wales not 5pm)

If your car isn't used much, Super is better for the tenancy for E10 to absorb more water (conensation).
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
640269
640270
640271
Just spent an afternoon fixing my PDC sensors on the Disco. Wiring loom had rubbed on the metal chassis underneath the bumper. Been annoying the hell out of me for 2 months. So decided to try and get it fixed. Broken wire managed to take out the sensors and rear camera . So all repaired now with some cable and solder. Now wrapped on cable sleeve .
 
D

Deleted member 26715

Guest
Son took one of the kitcars on a trackday, drove there, came back on a flatbed, he's manage to snap a driveshaft, although TBF looking at it,
640395


I think it was my fault, I don't think I put it in correctly.
 
D

Deleted member 26715

Guest
Sunday saw the removal of the diff & the remaining driveshaft, then off on a trip to buy another set, Monday saw the reverse process putting it all back together, only slight hiccup was the prop shaft the existing one was 40mm too long as the new set-up has a damper on the diff input shaft which mine didn't have. Luckily in my stash of stuff I had another prop shaft which luckily was the one I needed.

Today I got chance to go out & test the LSD.

641161
 
Sunday saw the removal of the diff & the remaining driveshaft, then off on a trip to buy another set, Monday saw the reverse process putting it all back together, only slight hiccup was the prop shaft the existing one was 40mm too long as the new set-up has a damper on the diff input shaft which mine didn't have. Luckily in my stash of stuff I had another prop shaft which luckily was the one I needed.

Today I got chance to go out & test the LSD.

View attachment 641161

nice!

View: https://youtu.be/LFdpIM5k_Sk
 
The recently purchased Touareg has a non-functioning high-level brake-light:rolleyes:
After much consultation of owners forums/YouTube, we've come to the conclusion that it's going to be huge pain in the proverbial to replace
I've managed, after risking fingertips & nails, to remove the section of the trim that gives access to the supply wire

However............ father-in-law left the multimeter at the caravan a couple of days ago, so we can't test to see if there's a feed to it :wacko:, & if there's not, it's 'further upstream'?
Sods Law
dictates it'll be in the hinge assembly, where the supplies run through a plastic shrouding that (at first glance) is prevented from being removed by the actual tail-gate hinge
If there is a 12v supply to it. I might bypass it all together & fit one of these (or similar); Amazon product ASIN B07H9N1R3NView: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Third-Brake-Light-Mount/dp/B07H9N1R3N/ref=sr_1_53?crid=1BXLG88GPNCP3&keywords=high+level+led+brake+light&qid=1651247973&s=automotive&sprefix=high+leve%2Cautomotive%2C270&sr=1-53
 
Top Bottom