Car D.I.Y.

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A decent breaker bar would have made that job easier.

thank you, yes!
breaker bar.jpg


& the torque wrench
torque wrench.jpg
 

DaveReading

Don't suffer fools gladly (must try harder!)
Location
Reading, obvs
Interesting that they sell those bolts as 5 sets of 4, rather than 4 sets of 5.
 
OP
OP
Drago

Drago

Legendary Member

Jameshow

Veteran
Story of lack of checks and maintenance

My mates daughter, said the oil light came on . He checked it the oil level. It required 3 litres to bring it back into the middle of the dip stick :ohmy: It only has a 4 litre sump. He then told me the oil cap is milky too.

So likely blown head gasket and some bottom end ,rod, crankshaft bearings have been cooked. She wants a newer car, but hers is now pretty much worthless, due to repair costs.

Doh

Zafira had that problem wife cooked the bottom end bearings.
 

figbat

Slippery scientist
He then told me the oil cap is milky too.

So likely blown head gasket…

Probably not - in the cold weather you often get a bit of emulsion in oil caps and around dipsticks, especially if the car does short journeys. The cooler extremities of the engine can be a place where water condenses and then mixes with the oil to form the ‘mayo’. Some water in oil is inevitable because of how engines work - obviously lots of water is a problem that needs investigating.
 
Monday 18th

Joanne got home this evening & told me there’s a strange noise from the back of her Q3
I had a roll under with a torch, nothing immediately apparent, so had a drive

There was no real noises, but a roundabout created a ‘scrape/clunkm’
an in-dept look, once home, revealed a cracked rear anti-roll bar!



View attachment 716495

View attachment 716496

wonder what kind of splint would hold that until a replacement can be fitted
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Zafira had that problem wife cooked the bottom end bearings.

Probably not - in the cold weather you often get a bit of emulsion in oil caps and around dipsticks, especially if the car does short journeys. The cooler extremities of the engine can be a place where water condenses and then mixes with the oil to form the ‘mayo’. Some water in oil is inevitable because of how engines work - obviously lots of water is a problem that needs investigating.

He told me she's still driving it, with no apparent issues with losing coolant. Time will tell if its burning or losing oil, or the engine has terminal damage.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
Had the water pump fail on one of my kit cars (Ford Pinto engine). I felt lucky because the local motor factors sourced a new pump. When I started the job I found I'd overlooked that because my car has a viscous fan the pump is different, and has a LH screw thread on the nose to fit the fan on! Calling the factors, it seems there is only one number of pump listed and if they ordered another pump it was pot luck if it would have the thread. Plan change..... In my garage I found a 12 inch electric fan which I'd bought years ago with a view to fitting to improve economy - so now was it's time to be used. I welded a steel framework to attach the fan onto, mounted it in front of the rad (which I also had to solder as the side frame had detached! and with some extra wiring I now have an electric fan! Fortunately there was also a thermostatic fan switch in the thermostat housing, so happy days.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Ever since I bought the i40 the oil has been overfilled by a good splodge on the dipstick. Owing to the the previous owner servicing it as I collected it.

The engine takes about 5.4ltrs of oil, so quite a lot by modern standards and has obviously caught out the guy as he bought 4 ltrs then had to buy another couple of small bottles which he emptied in so I'm guessing it had at least 6ltrs in.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed the oil level had risen. These engines are known for oil dilution when the dpf regen fails they seem to dump diesel in the sump. I'd never had an issue, but I have been driving a few more short journeys than usual and driving like Miss Daisy on my usual longer journeys probably causing the failed regens with a recent long journey being 60mph max in 6th it barely touches 2k rpm

With the already high oil level it was a bit of a worry, so with the car has been about due an oil change I decided to get on with it.
Oil bought and filters sourced I set about draining the oil. Drained out just under 7lts from the sump which was rather less than I'd expected, especially given the overfill already and the height the oil was on the dipstick.

The oil filter cap was stupidly tight but eventually persuaded off after I bought a proper socket for it

All renewed and all seems well again - Twas a bit of a worry just before crimbo.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Self fuelling from sump oil is a real issue , can over rev and destroy an engine.

Reminds of a story of a huge diesel generator that started self fuelling. In a panic the engineers stuffed the air inlet with a huge cotton roll from a toilet hand drier mechanism.

The inlet and suction was so huge that, the whole roll was sucked into the engine. Followed by an almighty bang, engine threw half it's rods out of the casing.
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
Not so much DIY but walking across a supermarket carpark the other day and was approached by a woman...car won't start.
BMW X3, opened bonnet...no battery, oh bugger, now we've got to find it ?
She explained how it happened last week and they used to jumping points in the engine bay. No problem, got it started and left with the words...your battery is probably goosed, either that or your not putting enough miles on it, too many starts, not enough charge. Drive it 20 miles, that might give it a chance.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
We've been away for a week, mooching around the back roads of Cumbria in the Hyundai Estate.

Noticed a bit of a knock/knocks coming from the FOS and ROS on small bumps. Suspected front anti roll link bar or track rod end and possibly rear antiroll link. It's nothing major, normally I'd let it develop a bit but its there and now I have heard it.... Its annoying me and the MOT is due next month.

Initially suspected the front trackrod end as I replaced it Dec 2022 with a suspiciously cheap Delphi Part from ebay.

Spent yesterday Morning stripping off the front OS corner. Found the track rod end to be nice and tight, what I had by torchlight thought to be wetness, is actually newness and shiny paint. Stripped off the AntiRoll Link and found no play in that either. Didn't Strip the wishbone off, but that looks good too. So having spend an hour sat in the rain, I'm no wiser!

I gave it up as a bad job - I've ordered some pads and disks which it needs. So I'll have another look when fitting them. But I don't much fancy doing the inner trackrod end thingys.
 
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