Car D.I.Y.

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D

Deleted member 26715

Guest
When the weather has been getting really cold the Rav has been taking a 2nd start to fire & run, it's got keyless entry & start so all you do is clutch in (stupid Merkin idea) press the bottom & it goes through the start procedure, it holds the glow plugs on for a time based on how cold & then tries to start. If it hasn't started in X seconds it stops & you have to press the button again. But once started that's it, all the starts through the day are usually fine.

Figured it was the glow plugs, 15 years old, I was dreading trying to take them out, breaking one making the car underivable. So approached with trepidation, but good old Toyota all 4 unscrewed without any fuss,

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Tested each one & they all lit up as expected

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Rang the motor factor & of course there are 2 versions one with DFP & one without, not sure which version we need, there was a little corrosion on a couple of the nuts, so cleaned all them up as it went back need the car to fetch the parts, but tried it when it was all back together & started immediately but it wasn't really cold by then
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
it's got keyless entry & start so all you do is clutch in (stupid Merkin idea) press the bottom & it goes through the start procedure, it holds the glow plugs on for a time based on how cold & then tries to start. If it hasn't started in X seconds it stops & you have to press the button

Try pressing the 'button' first and not your bottom ! :blush:
:whistle:
 
D

Deleted member 26715

Guest
Try pressing the 'button' first and not your bottom ! :blush:
:whistle:

It's my bottom if I want to press it then I shall :laugh:

But struggling to find if it has DPF or not, I don't think it has, the Auris we used to have would occasionally regenerate, it blows out huge clouds of black smoke, often just as you pulled away from a junction, it still does as it's now owned by the daughter, but never seen the Rav do that.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
As long as they didn't use a 450Nm ugga chugga you'll be fine

Whenever possible I take any wheels off the vehicle, (wash them) and take them in another vehicle to get the tyres fitted - I've had wheel studs ruined by the ugger dugger.
I insisted on hand loosening the wheel nuts myself, and then hand tightening on one occasion when I took the vehicle - garage weren't amused. When I put the nuts back on they said "how do you know it's the right torque" my reply "when it hurts!" I added that I've never had a wheel loosen, so I must be in the right ball park.
 
D

Deleted member 26715

Guest
When I put the nuts back on they said "how do you know it's the right torque" my reply "when it hurts!" I added that I've never had a wheel loosen, so I must be in the right ball park.
You do realise you are probably over tightening them, most people do, they only need 110Nm to 120Nm which if you ever try is not that much when using a 2ft long breaker bar.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
You do realise you are probably over tightening them, most people do, they only need 110Nm to 120Nm which if you ever try is not that much when using a 2ft long breaker bar.

I don't want to brag but mine's only 12 inches, but extends for undoing. It's unlikely I'm over tightening, as there is no thread damage - unlike when the ugger dugger was used on our Mondeo wheel nuts. Ever since that day I was unable to turn them without a wrench - but prior to then they could be turned by hand (obviously after first loosening ;)
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
You do realise you are probably over tightening them, most people do, they only need 110Nm to 120Nm which if you ever try is not that much when using a 2ft long breaker bar.

There was a time when some studs were failing on Ford cars - maybe the ugger dugger? as it never happened during development/testing.
There was also (in the Anglia era) a test introduced called the 'lock-stop Chinaman test', which was introduced when steering columns were being sheered at the end by a particular MOT tester. He violently moved the steering between both extremes, and the inertia (on the large diameter steering wheel) was too great.
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
The Ugga Dugga, or as it’s more commonly known, the windy gun is responsible for my carrying round supplies of wheel studs and nuts in the van, new tyres= at least one broken wheel stud and a call out to sort it :angry:
 
The Ugga Dugga, or as it’s more commonly known, the windy gun is responsible for my carrying round supplies of wheel studs and nuts in the van, new tyres= at least one broken wheel stud and a call out to sort it :angry:

my current & last vehicle both came with crummy tin? cap lug bolts & those caps often got deformed, making it very difficult to remove roadside. our local tire shop keeps several on display. had them swapped for solid bolts on the last auto & aside from getting new wheels for this current auto, they are coming w/ solid bolts. I'll probably save a few tin cap bolts, just incase I'm ever changing a flat & lose a bolt & need something ...
 

sevenfourate

Devotee of OCD
Was thinking about trading in the current MX-5 and getting a van / estate / something useful (Did ask some questions here) !

One quick call and I’ve been offered £10k for the Mazda as it stands. Looks like this model / specs are at full retail with warranty etc for around £12k. Maybe slightly more with my super-low mileage .

So for no hassle, no MOT’ing, no recourse, no being beaten down on price, potential buyers not turning up - think that’s what I’ll do. **And I’ve already sold a car to this dealer previously so he knows my vehicles; and I know he’s a man of his word…

So unsure on ‘what’s next’. But I’m spending 3/4 of a day today - removing wheels, then cleaning up under the arches and getting some minor paint done on a couple of tiny areas under there; and painting the brake surrounds / dust shields. Just to make it all A1+ and give no-one any reason to moan……
 

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sevenfourate

Devotee of OCD
As a slight aside to the above: Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres - approx 18 months old with 10k on them; and 5-6mm of tread right across all 4. BUT - showing signs of cracking only on the very outermost tread block. (Close up / high def pics likely make look worse than actual. But it’s clearly there). This likely to be an MOT failure or ? 😳

Wondering if I have a valid claim here ? All 4 are the same. On a £500 set of premium tyres…….
 

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