The depressing truth is I've tidied it 3 or 4 times recently, but there's so little space in there at the moment with all the timber and plasterboard that it gets messy super quick. Half the cupboards are blocked off so I can't put things away again without moving 12 sheets of plasterboard twice... Hopefully once the electrician has been in a few weeks I can get the plasterboard up and regain some garage space
Anyway, bicycles! I received a brake hose in the post so could continue this evening 😊 I was witness to a minor miracle - I poked the new brake hose through the hole in the chainstay then kept feeding with no resistance until it popped out of the top of the headset where it was supposed to
I think I've only managed that once before
Anyway,next job was to mark and cut the steerer, expensive if you make a mistake here! I was going to cut it the same length as the original forks but decided to dry fit everything and mark it up in case anything was slightly different, I'm pretty sure it isn't but wasnt going to risk it
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With the steerer cut to length I thought I'd take some photos of the order the integrated headset goes together in case its useful to anyone in future as it's a fiddly job
In the first picture you can see the top bearing sitting inside the frame and the preload ring above it. Normally both bearing and preload ring would be smaller in diameter but with these ACR headsets both upper and lower bearings are inch and a half to allow space for the cables. You can see the preload ring also has a section missing to allow the rear brake hose and Di2 cable to pass through; with a mechanical groupset you'd have the two gear cables instead of the single Di2 wire.
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Here the spacers have been assembled on to the now neatly cut steerer 😊 You can also see I've now run the front brake hose up the middle of the steerer tube.
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Next the steerer expanding wedge goes in. As with the preload ring there is a section missing to allow the front brake hose to pass through. I tend to position it such that the brake hose is in the 9 o'clock position when viewed from the saddle as it seems to give the best hose curvature on a right hand front brake setup. I'd reverse it and put it in the 3 o'clock position if I was laying it out for a left hand front brake.
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Next you have to cable up the bars. I do the Di2 cables first then run the rear brake hose up and through to the lever. I cant remember when I realised that inner gear cables fit inside hydraulic hoses but it was a good day; I tend to now run a gear inner through the route the hose needs to take, then poke the inner in to the hose and use it as a guide. It works pretty nicely and helps to quickly get round tight internal bends that would otherwise be a pig to cable up. Here's the trick about to be put into action for the front brake hose...
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And here's the hose in position...
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With the hoses run it was time to trim them to length then add the end fittings.
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With the hoses and wires all connected I connected the battery up and popped it on charge ready to play again another day.
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The last thing I did before closing up the garage was to check the Di2 was working by connecting the phone app. All was fine and there was new firmware available for a couple of the modules so I updated that and left it charging
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First job when I next get a moment will be to bleed the brakes, then I'll get the chainset, chain and rear wheel on to check the indexing.
The matte clear protection tape I ordered arrived today, except it was gloss
So that'll be going back and more matte tape sourced
I had wanted to get it protected before I built it up but that has clearly not happened
So long as I get it protected in the critical areas before I take it for a spin I'll be happy 😊