Afraid of descending

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daisyj

Über Member
Location
Somerset
I've been cycling for a couple of years on a hybrid and recently bought a road bike. I'm loving the bike and have managed my longest ride so far on it.

However, I'm terrified of descending and there are steep hills all around where I live. I do descend on the drops but scared myself today as I locked the back wheel trying to slow down. My new bike has rim brakes and the hybrid had discs so I need to get used to that. Is there anything that will help this other than practice?
 

vickster

Legendary Member
Get cross lever brakes fitted if you don't have them already. Brake all the way down if you feel more comfortable that way
 

craigwend

Grimpeur des terrains plats
http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/brush-up-on-your-bike-braking-skills-877520

One of the most important skills to learn in cycling in how to brake effectively and safely on steep downhills. There's more to proper braking than just frantically squeezing the brake levers; knowing how to stop could even save your life.

Here are some tips to learn how to use the front or rear brake in a more effective manner and how to brake under various road and environmental conditions:

Front and Back Brakes
Walk a few steps, wheeling your bike along next to you. Apply the front brake hard. Release it, keep walking and then apply just the back brake hard. You'll notice that the front brake is by far the more powerful one (it has about three times the strength of the rear one), but that applying it hard makes the back wheel lift.

Out on the road that lift can turn into a somersault. You may also have noticed that applying the rear wheel makes it lock; on the road that can send you skidding.

To achieve controlled braking, you should use both the front and back brakes, and sit well down on the saddle, putting your weight over the back wheel to stabilize the bike. If you feel the bicycle skidding, release the brakes a little before re-applying them.

Feathering
Practice feathering, a technique of lightly and rapidly alternating pressure and release of the brakes; this prevents brakes from locking while controlling your speed. Feathering is also useful on long descents when continual pressure can cause wheel rims to overheat, glue on tubular tires to soften, and tires to burst.

On wet roads, feathering helps to dry wheel rims. Avoid cornering and braking simultaneously. If there's an emergency and you really must brake in a corner, put the pressure on the back brake; skidding is preferable to going over the top.

Get Familiar
Different makes and types of brake respond differently; the way they work can be influenced by, among other things, the type of rim on the wheel, wet weather, the load on the bike, the speed you're moving at and the gradient of the road. Familiarize yourself with the way your brakes work under different conditions; try to judge how long it takes and how much ground you cover before coming to a stand-still from different speeds, and visualize using your brakes in an emergency situation.

If you have children who ride in the rain, get them to measure the different stopping distances for a bike with dry rims and one with wet rims; they'll grasp the implications of this far better than if you simply tell them that brakes work slowly in the wet.

Some important things to know about braking:

  • Bicycles take longer to stop than cars do.
  • Bike brakes take longer to work when the wheel rim is wet.
  • Brakes work far better on aluminum alloy rims than they do on steel rims.
  • The best brake pads to use in wet and dry weather are synthetic. Though rubber brake pads have a fair grip on aluminum, they skate over wet steel and result in stopping distances that can be four or five times as long as you'd expect in dry weather.
  • If you get oil on the rims, you should get off and remove it before going on.
  • Braking has the effect of throwing weight forward and destabilizing the bicycle. In a sudden stop, and particularly if you're going downhill, this can catapult you over the front wheel; this is more likely to happen if it's the powerful front brake that is applied abruptly.
  • Abrupt braking on the back wheel can make the bike skid out from under you.
 

Heltor Chasca

Out-riding the Black Dog
I'm in Somerset too so I understand your topography! You seem to be doing the right thing in prioritising the back brake and presumably feathering the front. A skidding back wheel is better than the front one skidding under you or chucking you over the bars.

Pick a hill with no parked cars or junctions and practice descending and braking. Each time, aim to increase your speed a little. Maybe even try some deliberate skids. It's surprising how much strength training your hands need. I've been in agony after long decents and worried I might not be able to slow down enough.

Your confidence will only improve so don't let a skid worry you. Before you know it you'll be skidding to a stop at every visit to the café.

EDIT My preference is to descend on the drops. I just 'feel' safer and stronger. Others prefer the hoods for the exact same reasons.
 
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daisyj

daisyj

Über Member
Location
Somerset
Thanks for these suggestions, I think I need to get better at feathering as I do try this but think I'm being a bit fierce. The cross lever idea is definitely food for thought.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Have you any friends who ride?
Last year i hit the deck after being overzealous on a twisty descent and overcooking a bend, i have been working on it by following riders on club rides and there lines to give me confidence .I am not back to full speed yet but at least i am not terrified anymore.
 

Welsh wheels

Lycra king
Location
South Wales
I've been there, I was afraid of descending when I first started on a road bike. I gradually built up the confidence to go faster downhill, so it's something that comes with time really. You can feel better about descending by double checking your brakes are working well and your tyres are in good condition before you set off, I found this helped. If you don't like it at the moment, then just go down slowly - there's no shame in that and you can't go wrong by doing that. One of my riding partners is a very experienced cyclist and has done LEJOG, but never goes much over 30 downhill because he doesn't like it. It's not a requirement of road cycling that you bomb down every hill you find.
 
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daisyj

daisyj

Über Member
Location
Somerset
Have you any friends who ride?
Last year i hit the deck after being overzealous on a twisty descent and overcooking a bend, i have been working on it by following riders on club rides and there lines to give me confidence .I am not back to full speed yet but at least i am not terrified anymore.
I'm glad you got over your tumble, it sounds nasty. Unfortunately my only friend who rides lives too far away for us to ride together and I'm not fast enough for a club yet.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
I'm glad you got over your tumble, it sounds nasty. Unfortunately my only friend who rides lives too far away for us to ride together and I'm not fast enough for a club yet.

Some clubs pootle along at 10mph but there might not be one near you. I guess what I mean is don't assume: check.
My club has 4 rides on a sunday ranging from about 14 mph to 22 , 2 people turned up on hybrids this week for the slowest group.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
I'm glad you got over your tumble, it sounds nasty. Unfortunately my only friend who rides lives too far away for us to ride together and I'm not fast enough for a club yet.
I am still not the best downhill by a long shot, i at least can cope with them , i make up for it when gravity works the other way :smile:
 
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