Not quite Bridge 74 -but close enough.
17/8/23
Since I rode the Montgomery canal from Welshpool to Bridge 74 near Rednal last year on a Brompton folding bike it’s been my ambition to ride the missing link from there to Frankton Junction for the sake of completeness. Having ridden the Linear fully loaded between Abermule and Newtown (a particularly nice, surfaced stretch of towpath) on a trip to Wales the year before last I felt that it should be the bike to use for this trip. The getting there and back was going to be the longer part of this trip.
I’d made several reconnaisance trips earlier this year in the direction of Whitchurch and beyond, and all the low traffic lanes involved some stiff HILLS which it seems there is no avoiding to get access to Whitchurch. I decided to use the A530/A525 route from Nantwich to Whitchurch as from my experience of cycling it and the A49 the year before last, the gradients aren’t too energy sappingly severe.
I hit the road at 07:00, got on to Swanlow Lane and made good progress. Although it wasn’t entirely traffic free, there wasn’t much about. Traffic increased slightly as I approached Church Minshull but they kept clear of me as I hurtled downhill into the village, probably where I gained my max speed. Most of the traffic turned off for Crewe giving me a temporary reprieve from the tyre noise.
A longish shallow hill out of Church Minshull before a longer winding dip leading to a climb over a steep narrow bridge over the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union Canal. Today was to be a day of humped canal bridges and waterway meanderings. Down the other side, through Aston Juxta Mondrum, Worleston, Reaseheath and in Nantwich about 08:20. Through the town centre, held up at the station level crossing gates with a queue of workward bound traffic, eventually on to the A530 for Whitchurch.
Initially it felt as though I was going well, up and over a steep light controlled bridge, around 13 mph at times, stopping occasionally to let traffic get past but in other places it felt unexpectedly hard without looking like a hill. Traffic gave me plenty of space when passing and it felt stress free. In places I was able to pile it on in high gear but not unexpectedly, the trend felt very much uphill towards Whitchurch. I looked forward to returning this way, as it ought to be easy to get up some speed. After the almost unheralded junction where the A530 became the A525 traffic increased. I stopped more often to let the big stuff pass, but still got plenty of consideration when I was rolling. The road undulated more and at one point the Garmin was showing 3.2 mph which seemed unlikely to me I as I was still tracking steadily in a straight line and I wasn’t in a particularly low gear even though I could have wished for more speed. I have increasing doubts about the accuracy of the Garmin at low speed and for short trips.
This stretch took longer than I expected but I still felt pretty fresh so after turning towards the centre I didn’t stop in Whitchurch. I came to the station bridge and followed the sign to the left for the Mercian Way. Just before I turned a couple on Bromptons turned in front of me so I thought I might have some company en route. They seemed to be making remarkably good progress as I followed them on to the rail trail but despite the fact that they weren’t pedalling very much the penny didn’t drop that they were on ebikes until they completely disappeared while I was struggling with the not particularly cycle friendly barrier after the first road crossing.
I cheated a bit and include this picture from my previous trip last May. Note the yellow Radical bag and the extra mirror,since removed.
I trundled on to to the next road crossing, then back on the trail until it turned sharp right through some more unfriendly barriers into an estate of houses. The original line continued straight on as an overgrown footpath. Very tempted to go and have a look but there was bound to be a stile or two along the way.
Left on the estate road then up an ever steepening hill till it levelled off to the junction with Alkington Road. Amongst the selection of signs was the one for NCN 45 Mercian Way so left I went, downhill under the bypass then up a long steep hill on the other side. Here was Alkington which I passed through in short order. A few miles down the road I pulled over for my first break in 25 miles to have a flapjack and a glug of water. A horse and rider passed by and the horse seemed very jumpy on seeing the bike, but they went on without incident. I gave them a bit of time before I followed them but they must have turned off, as I didn’t see them again.
I continued to follow the signs for NCN 45, keeping an eye out for signs to Whixhall but saw none. As I zig zagged through the lanes I began to wonder if I was being taken away from the route I wanted to follow. Just as I was turning right into another signposted lane a couple of heavily loaded cycle tourists turned out from it. I said “Hi” but got no response. The woman looked particularly grumpy. On reflection, I wondered if they’d just followed the route that I was just about to. I followed the signs and came out on a junction with the Wem to Whitchurch Road. The NCN sign said NCN 45 Shrewsbury. Looking at the map, I could see that the line of dots went left here then turned right through the lanes further on in completely the wrong direction for me. I turned back and retraced my route. I came out at another T junction, the left turn to Wem and Whitchurch, the right turn to nowhere near Whixhall on the map. I turned right expecting to see a sign for Whixhall any time but nothing appeared. I carried on to a crossroads and was still none the wiser. At the next crossroads there was a sign to the left to Whixhall Moss so I followed that. After several miles I unexpectedly came to a humped bridge and a sign for Whixhall. Soon after, I came to a sign for Whixhall Marina. I’d anticipated stopping here on the way back for some refreshments but since it was nearly 12 I decided to stop now. It’s so easy to lose time by getting off your route. It had become quite windy so I ate indoors rather than under the canopy where I’d eaten the last time I was here. Now I was here the rest of the route seemed straightforward.
So after a break I set off to Dobson’s Bridge, then Northwood (the Welsh border forms a V here so the crops in the fields on the right were probably in Wales), right along a minor road, then left through the lanes to Lyneal.
The Linear at Lyneal.
I followed signs to Colemere and ended following a “family route” through some narrow and badly surfaced lanes. I came across a sheep outside a gate where there were more sheep inside. When it saw me it made a run for it. I hoped that if I stopped it might turn back to the gate if the attraction of the herd was greater than its fear of me but it kept on running. After being preceded by the sheep for a couple of miles it turned left up a farm track so I continued on my way. It seems that the Linear is not so good for herding sheep. Before I reached Colemere I was distracted by a sign to Spunhill and found myself making a long and probably unnecessary climb before descending to what I assume was Lee. I reached a T junction. To the right, Ellesmere, to the left, Lower Hordley.
I had planned to go via Tetchill, Hordley, Rednall, pass under the railway then turn right on to the canal which should have been at bridge 74 (just like that!) but due to time galloping by, I saw the sign to Lower Hordley, so I followed that to the left instead, turning right at Lower Hordley. After Hordley itself there was a right turning to get access to the canal via Bridge 70. Just after I turned I saw a tractor turn in in my mirror so I pedalled on until I came to a passing place where I pulled in to let him and his trailer pass in a cloud of noise and dust. After a few undulations on this extremely narrow lane I came to a car park on the right then to the bridge which reared up like a cliff. I took a run up at it but it was too steep. I pushed the last few yards to the top.
It was a lot less steep on the other side. I rolled down and found a gate on the left and pushed through it on to the towpath. To my right, the towpath was well defined and gravelly. To my left, beyond the bridge it looked narrow and overgrown.
According to the map, the derelict Weston Arm goes off to the right. It never reached Weston itself which is probably why it fell into disuse though here it looks like part of the canal with a boat tied up on the far bank. Further on it is dry and part of its course remains as a ditch. It looks like the main line going straight on whereas the main line actually goes off to the left to Frankton Junction where it meets the Llangollen canal. If I’d had time I would have liked to explore it.
I followed the towpath, which was rather weedy and overgrown, to Frankton locks where the surface improved. Last time I was here was in 1978 on a boat trip on the Llangollen canal. The Locks were derelict but in the process of being restored by volunteers. Then, there was a great bank of mud and silt against the top gate to keep the water back. What struck me most was that the locks went downhill towards Wales. In my mind Wales was always uphill from England.
Frankton locks and bike.
Notice on Frankton lock keeper's cottage.
The towpath at Frankton Junction was narrow and overgrown above the locks.
Across the canal could be seen the signpost which presumably says Llangollen, Ellesmere, Montgomery but is so surrounded by foliage that it can barely be read.
I took a break on a bench by Bridge 1W on the Llangollen canal.
A curious feature of the Llangollen and Montgomery canals is the bridge numbering. The numbers count upwards from Hurleston Junction where it joins the Shropshire Union through Ellesmere and down the Montgomery canal to Newtown but the Llangollen canal bridges start at 1W west of Frankton Junction.
Though there was a capricious wind it was sheltered here and I was tempted to linger but having taken a few photos I had one more objective to achieve before I could head for home.
Once more the map didn’t quite match the ground layout. I pushed the bike up the ramp to join the road that crosses the bridge. I crossed the canal in the hope that I could get to the bridge that I could see on the other side of Frankton Junction. However I found myself looking at a farmyard. Just then a familiar looking tractor and trailer came out of the farmyard. Perhaps all tractors look alike but this matching blue pair rang a bell. It was the one that passed me earlier on the way to bridge 70. I watched as it turned on to the canal bridge. Could this be the road to bridge 70? I pedalled after it. The lane had a good surface and sloped downhill. It was largely straight and after it curved to the left I saw a canal bridge in the distance. I climbed it and saw a dizzying drop on the other side. Down I went, hoping I didn’t meet the tractor on its way back. A bit of climbing and I was back at the road junction, left then after less than a mile a turning through Hordley for Tetchill and Ellesmere. Soon through Tetchill, then on the outskirts of Ellesmere where I nearly missed the canal bridge. Down the ramp, shortly crossing over a more ornate black and white iron canal bridge then right past lines of moored boats to Ellesmere basin. I haven’t been here for a couple of decades when this wide open space wasn’t here. There must have been a massacre of old buildings in that time. There is a handy Tesco’s to note for any future visits. There is still the now derelict building bravely proclaiming “Shropshire Union Canal and Railway Co” in fading paint on its battered brickwork. It's a pity it's largely obscured by foliage.
The owners, or the council, need to do something with the building before it becomes irrecoverable. I took a picture of the Linear with the building in the background. This is the town end of the Ellesmere basin.
A swig of water, a flapjack then I gratefully succumbed to the magnetic pull of home, later than anticipated, but then it always is. Strange noises emanated from the wheels and I was puzzled until I realised it was loose paving blocks clumping underwheel. A few older people about, I seemed to cheer many of them with my passing by. I rushed the bridge incline, crossed over the canal then followed the towpath eastwards. The towpath was in good condition here. I passed a line of moored boats, got over the bridge crossing the marina entrance and saw the dour portal of Ellesmere tunnel ahead. I pondered how hard it might be to get up to the path over the top then I saw people walking out of the tunnel. I realised that the towpath went through the tunnel. One of the walkers said, “that looks like hard work”. I replied, “No, it’s pretty relaxing, really” and thought that I probably wouldn’t be able to manage such a ride on my upright bike. I could see that there was nobody coming through the tunnel so put my headlight on. It was not really wide enough to ride through as the space between the inwardly curving wall and the railing was only just wider than the bike. There were long gaps between the uprights. I held the railing and alternatively paddled and freewheeled my way through.
I came out of the other side on to a reasonable surface and there was a line of moored boats on the right, and Blake Mere on the left. The moorings came to an end and the towpath narrowed and it took some concentration to ride. It improved, deteriorated, improved though still remained rideable. I came to a bridge and looked at my map. There was only pedestrian access here but the next one looked promising. At bridge 55 I came off on to a lane.
I met a local mountain biker who confirmed that this was the way to Lyneal. I climbed a hill, turned right at a crossroads, and was soon in Lyneal. As usual, the next guess was unsignposted so I set off hoping the route I’d chosen was the right one for Northwood. The landmarks became familiar and from Northwood I was on more confident ground. Dobson’s bridge, Whixhall, soon I came across NCN 45 Whitchurch 10 miles. The wind was blustery but most of the time it was in my favour. It felt like I was making good time.
Soon it was Whitchurch 5 miles and I felt that I could take a break. I parked the bike on its side stand and was just taking a swig of water when a gust of wind shook the bike, it tottered briefly and crashed down on the left handlebar end before I could catch it. I picked it up and the air was briefly full of flying fudpuckers and various expletives as I saw that the hub gear bar end assembly had snapped off leaving the expander inside the bar. I checked that I still had drive, which meant that the untensioned cable had selected permanent high gear rather than being stuck between gears. The derailleur would still work giving 7 medium to high gears on the small chainring and 7 high to astronomical gears on the large one. Oh well, what was, was what it was. It emphasised how vulnerable gear changers are on underseat bars.
Going quite well for the next mile or two then a long hill into Alkington where I had to get off and walk. Pushing a LWB under seat steering recumbent any distance is a pain. No handy handlebars to get hold of, having to reach down to control the bars while pushing the seat. No wonder I normally rode up everything I was presented with. The rest of the uphills before Whitchurch were pretty minor but the last downhill under the bypass before the hill into Whitchurch gave a chance to get some momentum up and I got through that without too much trouble. I decided to go through the town centre then past the station and it was pretty quiet. It was 7:30 pm. Where had the day gone? It was well past rush hour but I turned my knog style rear flashing light on before I ventured on to the A525. I immediately felt the wind in my face but plodded on. This route has no severe hills and is largely downhill but some of that is cancelled by the headwind.
I set off, climbed a few moderate climbs, pedalled doggedly into the wind on the flat, and made the most of the downhills. There seemed to be a lot of leisure drivers about tonight, and particularly motorcyclists. There must be some sort of event on, as groups of them came by at intervals some with positively ear splitting exhausts, others virtually silent. What surprised me is why you would put a loud exhaust on a 125 which would be running near its max at normal traffic speed and giving the rider a headache. What concerned me more is the number of learner riders who might be taken by surprise to find a slow moving cyclist on their chosen line as they rounded a bend. I did my best to stay well out from the nearside verge so as to be visible but still...Then there is tail end Charlie trying to keep up with his mates having missed the opportunity to overtake and pushing the boundaries to catch them up. In over half a century of motorbiking I have found that group riding is not something I’m comfortable with. Still, I was given plenty of space by everyone even though some bikers were handsomely exceeding the speed limit as they passed 1.5 metres away. As I was making the most of a downhill I saw a car behind in the mirror who beeped as he went past once I’d slowed down. Recognition for riding a weirdmobile or annoyance for holding him up? Who knows.
Or the driver who passed me giving plenty of room then caused an oncoming car to brake and beep at him.
Altogether, not a life enhancing experience. I can only contrast this with the same road this morning, when most of the traffic was seriously and glumly going to work, or at work.
It sounds worse than it was, but it was definitely better this morning.
I was relieved to be able to turn off for Sound once having got through Aston. The contrast was stunning. A quiet road, nobody about. It was worth the few extra miles just for that. Another dip near Sound where I struggled to get up the other side due to lack of low gears but I pressed on to Ravensmoor, turned right and faced another dip and rise which I got through without too much trouble. A mile or so after that I stopped at a roadside gate where some obliging person had left some large concrete blocks to lean the bike against and sit on. I put my gilet on, as it was noticeably cooler now in the gusty wind. I had a last Kit Kat and diet Pepsi, put the front light to constant, checked that the rear light was flashing then hit the road for Nantwich. After a run up, I got over the gateway canal bridge and was rewarded with a freewheel down to Welsh Row where I stopped at a roadworks red light which seemed to take forever to change. Once through Welsh Row to Welshman’s lane and across the Chester -Wrexham road the wind was behind me and I made easy progress. The Cateye AMPP400 front light was good on its lowest setting, allowing me to avoid the worst potholes now it was dark.
A dip to a narrow bridge then a climb out and steady progress. The world rolled by in the darkness with virtually no traffic to break the spell. A few dimly lit houses in Cholmondeston then back into darkness. This was great. I might motivate myself to do a night ride before the autumn, as I have a bike with a hub dynamo. My main concern at the moment was how long the front light battery would last but according to the instructions it ought to go into flash mode before it gave up.
Past Wettenhall Marina, then a long straight where the wind pushed me along, helping my aching knees which were beginning to suffer from pushing too high a gear. Although I’d been thinking about angling the headlamp upwards on this long straight a distant oncoming car driver disagreed with the angle it was already at and flashed his lights. I stopped and adjusted it downwards before proceeding.
Through Wettenhall village, the wind still pushing, a distant road works traffic light changing pointlessly in the distance. A solitary car passed and stopped at the light, then moved on.
The lights changed a few times before I arrived, but nothing else was about. It was red when I got there, but I just carried on. Dratted red light jumping cyclists! There was a dip coming up, and I got into a suitably high gear and belted down it and up most of the other side before I struggled up the rest of it in the least highest gear. Things settled down to a steady plod as I ate up the darkened miles. Eventually Darnhall loomed with the almost complete certainty that I was going to have to push up the other side of the Darnhall bridge dip. I rolled down towards the lights and stopped on red. A vehicle came up behind and stopped. The lights changed and I waved him on. He went, I went. He made it up the other side, I didn’t.
I couldn’t be bothered to get off but shuffled upwards bit by bit until the slope eased. Then I launched and climbed the rest of it. Oh my aching knees. Once over the top, I let the wind take the strain, intermittently pedalling. The distantly welcoming street lights got closer. I proceeded steadily to my back gate, opened up, put everything away, showered, and fell into bed. Mission accomplished. I got home about 10:15.
A lot of experiences crammed into one day.
The Linear may look rough and ready, industrial, even, but is well proven and fixable, and can get you home even after some mechanical damage.
I think I’ve got the Montgomery canal out of my system, for now. Enough canal knowledge. An itch well and truly scratched. Felt pretty good after I got back, though, and the next day.
But...
I see it’s easy to get to Cwmbran by train. I’ve read that the towpath of the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal is rideable on a range of bikes, from Cwmbran to Brecon. Brecon to Hay, via Gospel Pass to Abergavenny and Cwmbran again...probably best spread over a couple of days. I feel a plan coming on. I must be getting adventurous in my old age.
Distance 88.2 miles. Max speed 31.5 mph. Average 7.2mph. According to Garmin.
Ascent 2101 ft according to Bikehike.