12 May. I didn't mean to go so far....
My ear worm today is 'Sixteen Tons'. You know it ?:
You load sixteen tons and what do you get?
Another day older and deeper in debt..
Only for me it is another hill and not a load of coal that I have to keep loading.
I leave home late - procrastinating and delaying, torn between the need to get on a bike and the fear of the pain and effort that my semi -planned ride will need. I start off on the ride and within a minute have turned off onto an easier road, rather than tackle the 10% of Chapel Hill. Every chapel in Cornwall seems to have been built on top of a steep hill judging from my experiences of riding up any lane called "Chapel Hill'. It may be a religious thing about how suffering is necessary to achieve enlightenment? I seek enlightenment with less effort.
I spin along and my feelings of self disgust at my laziness overcome my self doubt and the bike steers itself back towards my original first destination today - Hayle. The plan is then to go to Marazion, Penzance and across to the north coast at Zennor and home again. It is an 80 mile route with a fair number of hills. Never done that far before.
The first hour goes by easily. Later I realise that the stiff easterly wind that is cooling my legs is also pushing me westwards. The lanes near Redruth pass through old mining villages, still scarred with spoil heaps, patches of unused land too poisoned to grow more than a few straggling gorse bushes, houses that have lacked investment in windows or roofs over many years, green stained rain gutters hanging loose. The NCN route picks an intricate route along back lanes, urban greenways, gravelled mining tracks and hardened bridleways and between small collections of houses. Almost without effort I am beyond Camborne and the last of urban Cornwall and passing through the granite walled village of Baripper. Open countryside again and the air today is crystal clear which explains why it is so cold but it brings the hillsides closer. I pull up the zip on my top and wish I had brought leg warmers.
Some easy hills, easy today with this wind behind me and I am spinning through Hayle. The sea is deep blue under a cerulean sky and the few boats that have been launched this year are sparkling in this champagne light. More traffic today but I can keep up a steady 18-20 mph along the streets here and meet the same cars at every traffic lights. Hayle is the first target and now the front wheel bends itself towards the NCN route to Marazion. I have done this transit several times, between the north coast at Hayle, facing the Atlantic, to the south coast at Marion and the broad sweep of Mounts Bay and the long finger of the Lizard, the first and last sign of England for ships arriving in the Channel. It is a lovely road, not especially hilly with fine views culminating in the sudden appearance of St Michaels Mount.
The bike decides to head east here instead of west to Penzance as originally planned and I have no choice but to go with it. Lunch on the beach then, sitting below a huge granite sea wall that has warmed itself in the sunshine and allows me to regain some body heat.
I contemplate rejoining my original plan but I cycled around Zennor and Lands End last week and I fancy some new lanes. And I remember some steep hills around there and don't want to renew their acquaintance. So it is up through Marazion, all closed down, artists studios shuttered and the tempting pictures of ice cream and chips now unobtainable. I follow signs to Porthleven because I have never cycled there and spin along the coast road, rising and falling, with the sea on my right still deep blue. There are a couple of bulk carriers anchored in the Bay awaiting orders. They may be there a while.
Porthleven is as empty as Marazion. The fishing fleet are in the harbour, the fish market closed. Private yachts are still ashore where they will stay until they are allowed to launch.
Leaving my seat in the sun I turn up the steep hill out of the village. This is the first big challenge of the day and I can feel the wind playing with me, promising to be worse as I get higher. The road leaves the village but continues to climb. I remain confident it will stop rising soon but each bend reveals another upward kick, each summit reached shows the road continuing upwards.Then suddenly it is over and I plunge down into the green calm of woods in these secret valleys, rattling over a bridge and then up another hill. So it goes on all afternoon. I look at the height gain so far and am astonished to see it is already over 4000 feet and there are still 25 miles to go. This is both further and harder than I thought and I begin to realise that continuing to Lands End may have been an easier option after all.
I am back in the lanes but the views are extensive, green and yellow patched hills, lambs and calves sleeping whilst their parents graze. My legs are hurting and I am now on my second energy gel. No choice, keep spinning.
There is a final steep downhill through old mine workings that takes me into the Bissoe Valley, once the most industrialised part of Britain with mining, smelting and manufacturing but is now just ruins. I know the way from here and I know too that there are less than 800 feet of uphill in the last ten miles. The ride goes on in the afternoon sun, wind holding me up from time to time but close enough to home to feel I can burn all my reserves.
Home again I look at the route on Strava. I have not been especially fast - average times on most sections although correcting for age helps me feel better. I wonder if competitiveness wanes as you age? Some of these older guys are posting amazing times and I just want to beat them. I look at the distance covered and the height gained, both further and higher than I have been before, to see if I feel good about myself. My legs hurt and I am sitting on the sofa too tired to move the cat off my lap to find some food. I have left a trail of electrons across south west Cornwall but have not changed either myself or the world. Longer rides are all in the head, not the legs or lungs.
You climb sixteen hills and what do you get...another day older and oxygen debt.