Donger
Convoi Exceptionnel
- Location
- Quedgeley, Glos.
Wow! What a ride. This one had been at least three years in the planning, and it was worth the wait. We are back in Inverinate in NW Scotland on holiday. We usually come here in September, but decided to sample it in May this year. The chilly weather is keeping the midges away and - apart from a bit of drizzle and a quick snow flurry, there was nothing to spoil my latest plan to ride a loop onto the Isle of Skye and back. Wore my thickest winter kit and set off early this morning for the Skye road bridge. By setting off at 7.30 on a Sunday, I missed the usual busy, high speed traffic and barely saw one car per mile until I got to Kyle of Lochalsh. First stop, Eileann Donan Castle:
The A87 was strangely quiet, and it was great to be able to take in the views along the length of Loch Duich and Loch Alsh. Second stop, the viewpoint at Kyle of Lochalsh. Isle of Skye and Skye bridge in background, Kyleakin to the left:
I'd forgotten just how steep the road bridge is, and found myself slogging into a headwind all the way up it. It soon got easier, and after a little detour into Kyleakin, I soon got to Breakish, where I left the A87 and headed for the hills, climbing up Glen Arroch to the pass known as Bealach Udal (the "Pass of Despair"). The road had the opposite effect on me. What a stunningly beautiful road. In this shot I was looking back down towards the Inner Sound, with the Cuillin Hills in the background:
This next shot is facing forward towards the pass. Pictures never tell the whole story. The solitude was fantastic. The only sounds, apart from the wind whistling in my ears were the sound of bubbling streams and a couple of noisy cuckoos:
There were a couple of steep bits, but what a reward when you get to the top. Here you can see the narrow straits called the Kyle Rhea, with the Glenelg peninsula on the mainland beyond. Next followed a very steep descent to the ferry, with wonderfully smooth, new tarmac for the last mile or so. Great fun:
The Glenelg ferry is the last turntable ferry of its kind still working in Britain. You drive on forwards and they turn the deck around so that you can drive off forwards at the other side. It is always an interesting ride crossing the racing currents. In case you are wondering, it is £4 for a bike. The best £4 I've ever spent.
I was the only passenger on the trip over to the mainland:
I'd planned an anti-clockwise route deliberately as the Bealach Udal is much steeper on the Kylerhea Glen side than the Glen Arroch side, and on the mainland side of the ferry is the Mam Ratagan Pass - another one that I know from experience to be much steeper on the West side than the East side. As I climbed the Mam Ratagan, dark clouds were gathering ahead of me, blanking out the mountain tops and it started to rain. This was the beautiful view behind me:
Found it much tougher getting up the pass than I did a few years back, possibly because I'm older now, but probably because of the cumulative effort of taking on two mountains in one ride. The view from the pass always makes it worth all the effort, though. A magnificent view of the end of Loch Duich, with the Kintail Range to the right and Shiel Bridge down below:
..... and finally, a map from my "flatnav". I did a little detour into Kyleakin, which isn't shown, bringing it up to 40.4 miles. I would say it was all done at a very leisurely pace, but there was nothing leisurely about either of the big climbs. It was more a case of taking lots of stops for photos and refreshments. For once it was really difficult boiling it down to just ten pictures, as this really was a stunning, stunning ride:
Not sure how I can possibly follow that, but I do have another good 'un planned for later in the week. Dang, I love it up here!
Cheers, Donger.
The A87 was strangely quiet, and it was great to be able to take in the views along the length of Loch Duich and Loch Alsh. Second stop, the viewpoint at Kyle of Lochalsh. Isle of Skye and Skye bridge in background, Kyleakin to the left:
I'd forgotten just how steep the road bridge is, and found myself slogging into a headwind all the way up it. It soon got easier, and after a little detour into Kyleakin, I soon got to Breakish, where I left the A87 and headed for the hills, climbing up Glen Arroch to the pass known as Bealach Udal (the "Pass of Despair"). The road had the opposite effect on me. What a stunningly beautiful road. In this shot I was looking back down towards the Inner Sound, with the Cuillin Hills in the background:
This next shot is facing forward towards the pass. Pictures never tell the whole story. The solitude was fantastic. The only sounds, apart from the wind whistling in my ears were the sound of bubbling streams and a couple of noisy cuckoos:
There were a couple of steep bits, but what a reward when you get to the top. Here you can see the narrow straits called the Kyle Rhea, with the Glenelg peninsula on the mainland beyond. Next followed a very steep descent to the ferry, with wonderfully smooth, new tarmac for the last mile or so. Great fun:
The Glenelg ferry is the last turntable ferry of its kind still working in Britain. You drive on forwards and they turn the deck around so that you can drive off forwards at the other side. It is always an interesting ride crossing the racing currents. In case you are wondering, it is £4 for a bike. The best £4 I've ever spent.
I was the only passenger on the trip over to the mainland:
I'd planned an anti-clockwise route deliberately as the Bealach Udal is much steeper on the Kylerhea Glen side than the Glen Arroch side, and on the mainland side of the ferry is the Mam Ratagan Pass - another one that I know from experience to be much steeper on the West side than the East side. As I climbed the Mam Ratagan, dark clouds were gathering ahead of me, blanking out the mountain tops and it started to rain. This was the beautiful view behind me:
Found it much tougher getting up the pass than I did a few years back, possibly because I'm older now, but probably because of the cumulative effort of taking on two mountains in one ride. The view from the pass always makes it worth all the effort, though. A magnificent view of the end of Loch Duich, with the Kintail Range to the right and Shiel Bridge down below:
..... and finally, a map from my "flatnav". I did a little detour into Kyleakin, which isn't shown, bringing it up to 40.4 miles. I would say it was all done at a very leisurely pace, but there was nothing leisurely about either of the big climbs. It was more a case of taking lots of stops for photos and refreshments. For once it was really difficult boiling it down to just ten pictures, as this really was a stunning, stunning ride:
Cheers, Donger.
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