Why do my triban's brakes lock too much?

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NickJ95GB

Senior Member
Location
Fife
thank you for all these tips, taking them all into consideration, will definitely begin moving back when braking, usually maintain my profile and feel weight moving forward - typically have my fingers right over the front, thanks all
 
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Deleted member 20519

Guest
Are you still using the OEM blocks?

Indeed I am.
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
yes, if they lock they clearly work, but it's hard to find that 'sweet spot'. It's make sense that it's the wheels because it means the grip on the brakes is outweighing the grip on the tyres. so new tyres it is then. thank you :biggrin:
and mrandmrspoves, i'll look into that, too thank you.
looking into tyres at the moment. also, quick question, when releasing a rear wheel, do the gears stay in place? or do they fall? not got the confidence yet to put them back on. thanks :smile:

Everything other than the wheel stays in place! Do it like a pro though! Small ring at the front, small cog at the back, release the brake and the QR skewer and lift the bike up (you might have to pull the rear mech back a tad) and the wheel will drop out. Now manouvre the frame so the chain clears the wheel axle and take the wheel out of the way! Then get your team mechanic to pass you a replacement wheel and put it in the opposite way you took it out! Do not turn the bike upside down!
 
OP
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NickJ95GB

Senior Member
Location
Fife
Everything other than the wheel stays in place! Do it like a pro though! Small ring at the front, small cog at the back, release the brake and the QR skewer and lift the bike up (you might have to pull the rear mech back a tad) and the wheel will drop out. Now manouvre the frame so the chain clears the wheel axle and take the wheel out of the way! Then get your team mechanic to pass you a replacement wheel and put it in the opposite way you took it out! Do not turn the bike upside down!
When you take the rear wheel off the derailleur stays in place - you just have to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket once the wheel is released.
legends! both of you! everyone here fills you with confidence
 

Peteaud

Veteran
Location
South Somerset
Everything other than the wheel stays in place! Do it like a pro though! Small ring at the front, small cog at the back, release the brake and the QR skewer and lift the bike up (you might have to pull the rear mech back a tad) and the wheel will drop out. Now manouvre the frame so the chain clears the wheel axle and take the wheel out of the way! Then get your team mechanic to pass you a replacement wheel and put it in the opposite way you took it out! Do not turn the bike upside down!

And when it all goes back, remember to reset the brake.

I forgot once
smiley-ashamed002.gif
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
And when it all goes back, remember to reset the brake.

I forgot once
smiley-ashamed002.gif

You mean you didn't give the wheel a spin, check the brakes were working and then give yourself a thumb's up while telling your girlfriend/wife/boyfriend/husband/pet cat, that's how it's done?
 

Peteaud

Veteran
Location
South Somerset
You mean you didn't give the wheel a spin, check the brakes were working and then give yourself a thumb's up while telling your girlfriend/wife/boyfriend/husband/pet cat, that's how it's done?

spookily, spot on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! no i didnt.
^_^
 

Widge

Baldy Go
Yup...I turned my Triban upside down to remove the rear wheel once. Bad idea.....everything looked wrong and made my brain hurt!

New quality tyres improved my confidence over the cheap-as-chips ones fitted stock. My rear punctured within a few days of ownership.

I would welcome recommendations for upgrading the brake blocks? The stock ones have been ok in the dry but are somewhat alarming in the wet. Haven't experienced brake-lock though................just really slow and ineffective braking IME.

We all know the wheels are not supreme quality....it amazes me that the TRIBAN HAS ANY AT ALL GIVEN THE PRICE!.....

Is it peoples experience that they go out of true easily? They seem plenty chunky to me and I was hoping to get a fair whack of mileage out of them before thinking about upgrading. Decent wheels can be pretty spendy!

bEST

w
 

andsaw

Senior Member
Everything other than the wheel stays in place! Do it like a pro though! Small ring at the front, small cog at the back, release the brake and the QR skewer and lift the bike up (you might have to pull the rear mech back a tad) and the wheel will drop out. Now manouvre the frame so the chain clears the wheel axle and take the wheel out of the way! Then get your team mechanic to pass you a replacement wheel and put it in the opposite way you took it out! Do not turn the bike upside down!
Why not turn the bike upside down, i have always done that even on my T3, be interesting to know why, can doing it damage it or do anything else, i do find the T3 is a bit of a pain like the skewer nut catches on the derailier, took it of today so i just unscrewed the nut off.
 
I have found with the 2 T3's we have that you don't need to release the brakes to get the wheels off, there is enough clearance on the 'stock 23mm tyre. It's a bit tighter with a 25mm tyre and brake blocks are a couple of mm from the rims.
My bike has had new pads and braking is much improved, my OH find the OEM ones fine.
We have both had issues with the wheels (front and rear) going out of true as well, but we have those nasty sleeping policemen (tarmac lumps) across the entire width of our single track lane which also do not allow you to go around them on a bike, and negotiating 8 of those each way was what I had put our wheels continually going out of true down to.
 
Have you thought about braking a little earlier and with less force? If you are regularly planning on stopping so quickly that you are locking wheels, then what have you got left in reserve for when things are not quite what they seemed? Perhaps you need to rethink the way you plan your riding....
 
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