What to buy 1980/1990 race bike.

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OP
OP
Boon 51

Boon 51

Veteran
Location
Deal. Kent.
Picked it up today and well pleased I've taken some photo's for a sort of before and after thing?
I shall start a thread in vint&classic and if the mods want to move it they can. :okay:
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Reynolds 501 makes a nice frame, bikes made with 501 sat between Raleigh's 18-23 steel and 531 frames in price.
I don't know if you're aware but you should be able to date it from the frame number, which should start with a couple of letters then the 1st number is the year of manufacture.

None of my Raleigh 18-23 hi-tensile or Reynolds 501 frames have a factory letter code, only the all-numeric frame number. The first digit does tally with the correct year the bikes were in production.
I don't know if those frames that have RALEIGH engraved seat stay caps were built at Nottingham or elsewhere. I have a 531 hybrid and two 501 MTB frames with the engravings, and a 501 hybrid but with plain stays. All rather odd.
 
None of my Raleigh 18-23 hi-tensile or Reynolds 501 frames have a factory letter code, only the all-numeric frame number. The first digit does tally with the correct year the bikes were in production.
I don't know if those frames that have RALEIGH engraved seat stay caps were built at Nottingham or elsewhere. I have a 531 hybrid and two 501 MTB frames with the engravings, and a 501 hybrid but with plain stays. All rather odd.
Raleigh never were very consistent with their numbering. in about 1990 they changed again - bikes from the "Special Products Division" (which weren't nearly as special as bikes from the SBDU) seem to've been coded with a date letter followed by 5 digits. Bikes from the "SPD" were stuff like Dyna-tech, M-trax and the tourers, perhaps the last of the bikes to be built in the factory?
I have no idea how "non-special products" were numbered but I'm guessing they didn't carry on with the N prefix
 
OP
OP
Boon 51

Boon 51

Veteran
Location
Deal. Kent.
I might buy this if the stand over height is right.
The shop owner wants £50. He's guessing late 70's.
Peugeot5.jpg
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
There's a chance the forks might not be original (the rake looks a bit "straight" for 70s maybe?) but worth £50 of anyone's money! Frame about 23 - 23.5"?
 

Poacher

Gravitationally challenged member
Location
Nottingham
There's a chance the forks might not be original (the rake looks a bit "straight" for 70s maybe?) but worth £50 of anyone's money! Frame about 23 - 23.5"?
Worth £50 just for the components! In view of the (probably) non-original forks, I'd be inclined to feel for any ruckling on the underside of the downtube, just behind the headtube, indicating head-on crash damage.
Even if present, not necessarily a deal breaker - it looks OK in your photo.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Just consider what you'd pay for a new lugged 531 frame today - and then go and buy that one.
You're getting a high quality machine for the price of a secondhand BSO. Its a no-brainer, like my 531 framed drop-bar Dawes that I paid £40 for. If you've got a good frame you've got the makings of a nice bike even if some of the other bits aren't in the best condition.
 

biggs682

Itching to get back on my bike's
Location
Northamptonshire
I'm going down the shop today or tomorrow and I will check a few things out but I am well tempted even if I clean it up and re sell or do it up for myself?
It has a nice patina ?

If you don't buy that at £50 i will ignore all your future post's they are great bikes and ride great , check the forks and underside of the main tubes as the forks might not be original .

Does the rear drop out have mudguard eyes ?
 
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