bits hat hold the tubes together - can be very ornate (I think that this was a British fashion):
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/carlton.html
What to buy 1980/1990 race bike.
- Thread starter Boon 51
- Start date
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bits hat hold the tubes together - can be very ornate (I think that this was a British fashion):
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/carlton.html
woodbutcher
Veteran
- Location
- S W France
woodbutcher
Veteran
- Location
- S W France
Hmmm ! bit too "pikey fairground" for my liking . No insult intended
OP
OP
Boon 51
Veteran
- Location
- Deal. Kent.
This could be interesting at this price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raleigh-Elan-Road-Bicycle-21-Inch-14-Gears/264107516842
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raleigh-Elan-Road-Bicycle-21-Inch-14-Gears/264107516842
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
Those late Raleighs with 501 tubing are nice normally and that seem's a fair enough price imho
Here's another one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raleigh-...ngAAOSwztVcKORe:rk:14:pf:0&LH_ItemCondition=4
Ans what about this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-...24cc7e8:g:jnEAAOSwUVFcKQNf&LH_ItemCondition=4
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OP
OP
Boon 51
Veteran
- Location
- Deal. Kent.
Not seen the top one so will give that some thought the one below I have on my watch list but for the money the frame had too many chips and scratches.. cheers mate.
OP
OP
Boon 51
Veteran
- Location
- Deal. Kent.
I bid on the top one and won it for the princely sum of £62 which seemed about right to me. Chuffed to bits.
DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
- Location
- Dewsbury, West Yorkshire
That'll do as a starting vintage bike. Just don't turn into @biggs682 - I've seen his bike store, plus the other one and I'm sure he's got bikes elsewhere. Me? Nah, honest
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
I reckon you got a good bargain there, as you can do at this time of year if you are savvy. Too small for me, but just my sort of thing with Reynolds 501 and in a nice colour. I wouldn't dismiss it as a "starter bike" either. You don't have to spend silly money or run mega-valuable machinery in order to have a nice enjoyable ride. All the thing ultimately needs is to be reliable and be fettled into good working order so it steers, stops, and changes gear like it should. Buying something with a zero added to the price won't result in it being ten times better/lighter/faster/more fun.
OP
OP
Boon 51
Veteran
- Location
- Deal. Kent.
That'll do as a starting vintage bike. Just don't turn into @biggs682 - I've seen his bike store, plus the other one and I'm sure he's got bikes elsewhere. Me? Nah, honest
I almost got it for £49 but someone jumped in at the last so I had to bid a little more..
As for bikes I'm just going to advertise two bikes and buy three but I can see this old school bike thing might get the better of me and I will buy some more?
OP
OP
Boon 51
Veteran
- Location
- Deal. Kent.
So being new to this what type of brake cable/ outer cables do you use and what type of tyres run well for road use?
PS. not sure if I should start a new thread on what to get or stay on this one as I have loads to ask?
PS. not sure if I should start a new thread on what to get or stay on this one as I have loads to ask?
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
Vintage/classic stuff is outstanding value, often pleasing to look at, often well made, and generally nice to ride. It is very easy to go bargain hunting and end up with more bikes than you planned! I speak from experience, although I shall refrain from trying to outdo Mr Biggs! Currently 90's 26" MTB's are absolute giveaways, even more than road bikes, if you just like pootling about.
I'm limiting myself to picking up the odd parts donor to strip for spares now rather than buying more "keepers". Despite my best intentions they keep popping up. I wanted some period alloy MTB mudguards recently, so instead I bought a complete donor bike already fitted with said mudguards, for £5 - as you do. I've got another one, a shabby £1 eBay special, to get next week. It's vintage cycling on a shoestring, and it future-proofs my keepers by ensuring I have a good supply of wearing spare parts like alloy wheels and drivetrains.
OP
OP
Boon 51
Veteran
- Location
- Deal. Kent.
Now I'm no longer riding motorbikes I had a 250 Gas Gas and a WR 450 motocrosser plus a Gixxer 1000) I hate to think what I used to spend a year so what ever I spend now I'm saving money lol.
I just love my cycles, so a new direction in the one I bought will give me something to do as I'm now retired.
PS.. A big thank you to all information given..
I just love my cycles, so a new direction in the one I bought will give me something to do as I'm now retired.
PS.. A big thank you to all information given..
DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
- Location
- Dewsbury, West Yorkshire
For brakes - standard outer and inners. They should be similar but check the cable ends. Again tyres should be a usual 25 or 28mm but check whether the wheels are 700c or 27 1/4". Or in the case of my Raleigh Sports below 26 1/4 (or 559mm). Tan-walled tyres go nicely on retro bikes and the Raleigh ones are about £17 a pair delivered.
The difference will be in using downtube shifters and it will feel different on the road. Or should do, but then my current retro bikes are this from 1950:
which since the photo above has had new tyres, appropriate saddle, new 3-speed shifter and cables, mudflaps and a dynamo re-build. And this 1975 shopping bike:
Erm ... I've got the rear brake working. But done nothing else, and it'll be on sale soon. Oh, and I'm building this 1975 Carlton into a moustache-handlebarred orange fixie with my son:
Progress on that is slow. We've stripped it bar one item, sourced all the parts, prepped the frame for painting and painted the forks orange to date.
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