Booyaa
Veteran
- Location
- South Staffordshire
I fixed my slightly askew rear wheel today. Looking forward to getting out for a ride this week sometime.
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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Poacher
Gravitationally challenged member
- Location
- Nottingham
Tightened the LH crank on my Holdsworth - it's one of those with self-extracting bolts, and it started self-extracting halfway through a 50 mile ride. Most embarrassing, as it was my first time out with the local CTC easy riders. For quite a few miles I just thought the noise was the chain rubbing against the front changer, but after many attempts at trimming, I realised my error, and for the rest of the ride I was pretty much riding right-legged to avoid loosening the crank any further. Not many multi-tools run to an 8mm Allen key! 
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
I have fettled a Vauxhall Vectra space saver wheel onto a Cadillac BLS (Saab 9-3 in drag)
I then fettled it off again.
The Vectra spare was dirt cheap off that Ebay, whereas Caddy ones are made of unobtanium and rocking horse poo - there was just a compressor and a can of rubbery gunk in the spare wheel well.
The only downside is that it looks ruddy ridiculous.
I then fettled it off again.
The Vectra spare was dirt cheap off that Ebay, whereas Caddy ones are made of unobtanium and rocking horse poo - there was just a compressor and a can of rubbery gunk in the spare wheel well.
The only downside is that it looks ruddy ridiculous.
Shut Up Legs
Down Under Member
Thoroughly cleaned my bike yesterday, in preparation for this week's commuting. I still have an annoying squeal from the rear brake pads, but I'll adjust it soon. I also had to re-tighten the bolt through my front fork crown (is that the correct term for where the top bit meets the 2 bottom bits?), as the dyno-light mounted there had started to wobble (again). Perhaps I need a spring washer on each end of the bolt?
smokeysmoo
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bolton, not very far from Nob End
These are a great idea, but only ever in conjunction with a full size spare wheel as well IMO.
smokeysmoo
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bolton, not very far from Nob End
Apologies if you know the score, but if not try setting your pads with a small amount of toe-in, THIS should help.
I just hook a looped zip tie over the back edge of the pad when I'm fettling them and find this gives me enough toe-in and nice quiet brakes
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
Roger that.
Although with the price of 215/55 R16 s being what it is, I'm reluctant to use anything that'll stop the tyre place repairing a visitation.
That car was obviously cheap for a reason... Still good to drive though, and v comfy
Shut Up Legs
Down Under Member
No apology neededApologies if you know the score, but if not try setting your pads with a small amount of toe-in, THIS should help.
I just hook a looped zip tie over the back edge of the pad when I'm fettling them and find this gives me enough toe-in and nice quiet brakes
. I just didn't get around to properly adjusting the rear brake pads yesterday, because my maintenance session was longer than usual, due to my first ever rear hub + freewheel maintenance. I'm really picky about my brake pads, too: I prefer them to be as close as possible to the rims, and with minimal toe-in, because too much toe-in can cause uneven wear on the pads. So you basically have to find that sweet spot between too much and too little toe-in.
That'll have to wait til the morning now.
subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
New chain and brake pads on the Riverside 7, should setting up Magura rim brakes be quite such a swear fest?
Air in the tyres on the Defy and adjusted the front mech as I replaced the chain rings at the end of last year and haven't ridden it since. At least that was satisfyingly easy to get spot on
I think I'm all set for spring. Yay!
am glad it is not just me. I was under the impression that it would be as easy as changing disc pads swap them and thats it done. . no such luck. its a complete adjust and alter . still I know they will have been set correctly.
subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
started to refurb eldests 1st geared bike for the youngest as he has almost out grown his 1st proper bike. took solid lump of metal previously called a chain off and soaked in used cooking oil for a day- will see if it had any impact or if i need a new chain as well
Cyclopathic
Veteran
- Location
- Leicester.
Tidying the workshop and sorting out my wheels. Mostly.
youngoldbloke
The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
Moved right foot Keo cleat to left shoe, and fitted new cleat to right shoe, LH cleat always wears down quicker so like to get as much life out of both as possible. Readjusted Front mech as cage rubbing on chain in lowest gear following emergency fiddling on Friday.
Spent most of Saturday afternoon fettling the CX after riding it in January in the wet and then due to various factors leaving it uncleaned for the best part 2-3 weeks...
Partial stripdown involving removal of chain and cassette, a thorough clean and re-lube - I had to go a link at a time on the chain getting the rust off and the stiffness out. Must remember to never ever ever let it get in that state again! Hands and feet were numb when I finally finished!
Have ordered the KMC link removal pliers because out of the numerous 'reusable' missing link things that I've bought, I've only ever had one set that I've ever been able to manually open more than once and I'm sick of spending £4 every time I want to take the chain off! (can be quite a lot on a winter/commuter bike).
Also discovered that the bearings have gone on one of my rear mech jockey wheels, and on my right side Look Keo 2 Max pedals, and my front mech needs a re-tune because if I get enthusiastic with my change from small to big ring it falls over the top and ends up dangling by my foot on the crank. Have fixed it a number of times though and still ends up with the same results after a few rides. Could that be new cable needed or is the mech just crap? It's one of those microshift ones. Would I be better off with a proper SRAM one to go with the rest of the gruppo?
Partial stripdown involving removal of chain and cassette, a thorough clean and re-lube - I had to go a link at a time on the chain getting the rust off and the stiffness out. Must remember to never ever ever let it get in that state again! Hands and feet were numb when I finally finished!
Have ordered the KMC link removal pliers because out of the numerous 'reusable' missing link things that I've bought, I've only ever had one set that I've ever been able to manually open more than once and I'm sick of spending £4 every time I want to take the chain off! (can be quite a lot on a winter/commuter bike).
Also discovered that the bearings have gone on one of my rear mech jockey wheels, and on my right side Look Keo 2 Max pedals, and my front mech needs a re-tune because if I get enthusiastic with my change from small to big ring it falls over the top and ends up dangling by my foot on the crank. Have fixed it a number of times though and still ends up with the same results after a few rides. Could that be new cable needed or is the mech just crap? It's one of those microshift ones. Would I be better off with a proper SRAM one to go with the rest of the gruppo?
