derrick
The Glue that binds us together.
- Location
- On the edge of London
Oh i did but no one with a camera, I will always be the first to try something new,I like that you didn't volunteer to be the test driver/rider yourself @derrick
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Was asked to look at one of the collection of bikes I look after at work because the "front wheel won't tighten up" and keeps working loose despite being tightened with all their might.
Had a look and first noticed there was about 8mm of thread sticking out of the we nut where normally there is none visible..
Tried undoing the qr and found the plastic nut had broken off the steel inner nut and the spring was mutilated. Eventually got the nut off after much swearing and removing bits of spring from the thread. Qr skewer felt a bit bent but that isn't necessarily new.
Immediately noticed the hub seemed narrower than the fork drop outs and the little bits you'd expect to sit in the drop outs fitted between them.
Closer inspection shows that the nut side of the wheels Bearing dust cap was squished flat and has clearly been forced in against the hub body by the fork let/drop out. The wheel is locked solid. I suspect the whole hub and axle has been turning in the dropout I did think the rider had more mechanical sympathy, but apparently not.
I only had my cheap cone spanners and they didn't feel they'd budge it so God knows what's going on. Put a spare wheel into the bike for now and the defective one can go to the LBS for repair next week. I'm expecting a new axle and hub.
Had a look and first noticed there was about 8mm of thread sticking out of the we nut where normally there is none visible..
Tried undoing the qr and found the plastic nut had broken off the steel inner nut and the spring was mutilated. Eventually got the nut off after much swearing and removing bits of spring from the thread. Qr skewer felt a bit bent but that isn't necessarily new.
Immediately noticed the hub seemed narrower than the fork drop outs and the little bits you'd expect to sit in the drop outs fitted between them.
Closer inspection shows that the nut side of the wheels Bearing dust cap was squished flat and has clearly been forced in against the hub body by the fork let/drop out. The wheel is locked solid. I suspect the whole hub and axle has been turning in the dropout I did think the rider had more mechanical sympathy, but apparently not.
I only had my cheap cone spanners and they didn't feel they'd budge it so God knows what's going on. Put a spare wheel into the bike for now and the defective one can go to the LBS for repair next week. I'm expecting a new axle and hub.
Blimey, you would have thought there would be obvious warning signs to rider long before it got so bad. If it is a cup & loose bearings type of hub I'd like to see the state of them after having been tightened to such a degree! Good luck with that one
Just looking at the state of some of the bikes chained up here in Oxford, the riders are either completely oblivious to the mechanical condition of what they are riding, or just don't care, most look like death traps.
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Blimey, you would have thought there would be obvious warning signs to rider long before it got so bad. If it is a cup & loose bearings type of hub I'd like to see the state of them after having been tightened to such a degree! Good luck with that one
I'm curious as to where the bearings are! I can only imagine they've been crushed or pushed through the inner cup. But it still doesn't explain how the axle has become shorter.
I'm going to ask for photos because I'm not entirely happy with how it's been treated. The rider has been moaning about wanting new bikes for a few months.
Last night I finally decided that the stopping power of the rear TRP Caliper on my CAADX was now becoming totally useless and needed urgent attention. The first thing I did was to remove an excessive 'loop' in the cable near my bars, then removed/replaced the pads with softer organic ones, removed the Caliper and wound the pistons out to get to any dirt behind them and dislodged it with a few 'carefully aimed' blasts of automotive brake disc cleaner before leaving it to dry and then finally applied a tiny bit of light lube. The disc itself even got a de-glazing with wet and dry.. Just back from a ride and what a difference! Lots of instant grab and no squeals
cyberknight
As long as I breathe, I attack.
- Location
- Land of confusion
just fitted a brand x integrated headset as a replacement for the fsa acb one as the fsa ones are expensive and this was listed as a compatible replacement .The top part fitted perfectly but the bottom bearings did not fit into the frame , they seem to the eye to be the same size but to get in into the frame i would have had to hammer it in and then it would be stuck in permanently .It solved the issue of the rocking top part which was the issue im guessing the upper split ring was worn and not seating flushly .Annoying but not unhappy as the lower bearings are in good nick anyway.
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Major surgery required on the front mudgear with the indent and a section adjacent removed to clear the brakes and not jam the wheel. Now needs a bit filling in somehow - gaffer tape beckons possibly
The rear also needed chopping to avoid the brake assembly
The result of this is the mudguard bridge needs setting away from the forks even when using the mudguard Problem Solver brake bolt. The longest A2 M6 bolt Screwfix had was 60mm
but its still pushing the mudguard inwards so just ordered some 100mm ones off ebay.
The rear also needed chopping to avoid the brake assembly
The result of this is the mudguard bridge needs setting away from the forks even when using the mudguard Problem Solver brake bolt. The longest A2 M6 bolt Screwfix had was 60mm
but its still pushing the mudguard inwards so just ordered some 100mm ones off ebay.
Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Just replaced my acb bearings with some from superstar. £9 for a 2pk.
https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/shop/mountain/mountain-spares/mountain-spares-headset/
I didn't think they was obscenely priced and the originals lasted 6years 20k or so in all weathers.
After finding my round to it tool.
Finally cut down steerer on new forks for my Lynskey sportive . They had been in the shed for the last year.
The old forks being well past it .Carbon finish bubbling at top and both mudguard eyes u/s {stays held on by zip ties
}
Ordered new crown race for headset . So by the end of next year i should have the job finished
Finally cut down steerer on new forks for my Lynskey sportive . They had been in the shed for the last year.
The old forks being well past it .Carbon finish bubbling at top and both mudguard eyes u/s {stays held on by zip ties
}Ordered new crown race for headset . So by the end of next year i should have the job finished
cyberknight
As long as I breathe, I attack.
- Location
- Land of confusion
i needed a complete headset somehow i misplaced a spacer/seal from the fsa one and you cant get a spare one ( i even contacted fsa )
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biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
Mine was defettling ie pulling my F R Russell apart ready for some refreshing work
cyberknight
As long as I breathe, I attack.
- Location
- Land of confusion
CRC replied apparently the lower bearing is a different size and not compatible
Still i got the bike fixed for £13 rather than £60 ish
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
Pollards chain washed and cleaned and re tensioned as it was just showing some slack
Oh and swapped wheels on my R.E.W Reynolds just need some tyres now and some fresh grease in the hubs
Oh and swapped wheels on my R.E.W Reynolds just need some tyres now and some fresh grease in the hubs
