Nice work.. I like home made tooling it shows initiative.. Lucky you had the exact diameter hole cutter. What is the part number of the Bearing as I have probably reached the end of the road with prising off the seal and re-packing mine with grease?
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
- Location
- Dewsbury, West Yorkshire
Cleaned my Wilier and my son's BeOne after a ride for me to Holmfirth yesterday and his two trips up Holme Moss over the weekend.
Yes I can imagine it would over time but wouldn't that be more to do with axle length rather than crank spec? Whenever I remove/refit my SS rear wheel it always feels like a trial and error guessing game to get it central again. Is there a knack/tip for doing it?
Leaway2
Lycrist
- Location
- Manchester (Sale)
derrick
The Glue that binds us together.
- Location
- On the edge of London
Finished lacquering my bmx helmet today.
You did what to your Helmet
I removed my BB on the Genesis day one today. All came of ok. Crank puller from Park tool worked a treat and just a couple of gentle taps with a soft mallet to get it moving. BB replaced with a Shimano UN55, 68 x 118 square taper. £13 from AmazonPhew, confidence restored after finally resorting to cutting off the crank arms with my Grinder and removing the BB after soaking it with WD40 beforehand. Frame threads now cleaned out and lightly greased with copper slip until the new parts are sourced. I have never felt so pleased at having to spend money because I know that I have definitely dodged a bullet here
Unfortunately the writing on the BB has surface rust over it so apart from the 68mm width I can't read any other information. Is it just the spindle length that I need to know as I'm assuming the thread is English on a British made bike?
I used a Pro Bike tool for the BB which although good for removing was not that good at replacing the new one. It does have a hex head but it’s too small to get a good amount of socket on and any decent purchase on the splined tool. So it’s not torqued up as per Shimano, it’s torqued up as per my soft mallet
The new BB is different in that the shells on either side have a shoulder to meet the frame but the old one does not, it just ends with threads. When the drive side installed and up to frame the non drive side has a gap of less than a mm to frame. I measured the old and new and this would work out right as the old had a thread showing on non drive side when drive side up flush (if that at all makes sense)
After researching myself into a frenzy about BB Axles/Threads and Tapers all weekend I finally ordered the new BB and Crankset for my own Genesis Day One 10 today. I went for the same one that came out (FSA RPM 68mm) but mine is quite a long Axle 127mm. I also opted for a new KMC chain being as I was having a new chainring. God knows who put the original crank on because there was no way I would have got it off without cutting it off with my Grinder. Even when it was off and I put it into a vice the tapered end would still not budge whilst hitting it with a Lump Hammer & a Punch!I removed my BB on the Genesis day one today. All came of ok. Crank puller from Park tool worked a treat and just a couple of gentle taps with a soft mallet to get it moving. BB replaced with a Shimano UN55, 68 x 118 square taper. £13 from Amazon
I used a Pro Bike tool for the BB which although good for removing was not that good at replacing the new one. It does have a hex head but it’s too small to get a good amount of socket on and any decent purchase on the splined tool. So it’s not torqued up as per Shimano, it’s torqued up as per my soft mallet
The new BB is different in that the shells on either side have a shoulder to meet the frame but the old one does not, it just ends with threads. When the drive side installed and up to frame the non drive side has a gap of less than a mm to frame. I measured the old and new and this would work out right as the old had a thread showing on non drive side when drive side up flush (if that at all makes sense)
bikingdad90
Guru
The brand Norco was really bad for this type of thing: everything went on with a air drill. Great for fast assembling but rubbish for removing with hand tools.
The new BB would only let the crank bolt in by a thread or so and didn’t fancy pushing crank on and stripping threads. I Ended up knocking on a bit with soft mallet and not best practice I know but all worked out good in end and pulled up with bolt to correct torque. It’s a learning curved hence I am doing it on this bike and not any of the others
Just waiting for Chain tugs to arrive, new tyres and brake pads. The track uts arrived but a very sloppy fit so not sure if I will bother with them
I am going to ignore the advice that I keep reading on 'dry fitting' the new tapered axle into the new Crank and give them both a light smear of copper grease I think. I am wondering if there has been a mix of Japanese (JIS) & European (ISO) tapers fitted which has caused them to become so tightly wedged as there is apparently a slight difference in the profiles. I am also going to invest in a 3 jaw puller to keep in my tool box just in case I ever come across the problem again as those Aluminium threads in my crank arm didn't stand a chance.
I found out the hard way that the front & rear track nuts can be different sizes. From a DIY mechanics point of view that makes about as much sense as why the industry uses different sized loose ball bearings everywhere too! I don't think the BB shell is supposed to be tightened excessively as on the many YouTube clips that I've watched they have always come off with minimal effort.
Front and rear M10 but the difference I old nuts and new is ridiculous. Yeah it says 50-70 Nm but O gave it a few good taps and that’s that. All greased up and I lightly greased the tapers too
I think a soft mallet on the cranks is the only way to seat them onto the taper though so I don't think that is bad practice really as a taper is designed to be 'wedged in' so as to make a tight fit. A tap is not the same as damn good hammering or worse still the use of Air Tools as mentioned by @bikingdad90 earlier.
Well I may have wrapped a rag around the mallet and given a touch more than a ‘tap’
