roley poley
Veteran
- Location
- leeds
tried my old but good pedals out on the genisis with toe clips and straps now I know why I gave them up over 10 years ago 'orrible foot clamps will ride them as platforms and have a better safer time
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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Tenacious Sloth
Guru
- Location
- Huntingdon, UK
I’m going to treat the Ti to a new BB and chain today.
The DuraAce 9100 BB has done just over 8,500 dry miles since I built the bike a couple of years ago and has recently started clicking. It doesn’t feel bad but I’m fairly sure it’s the bottom bracket as, with the bike in the stand and turning the crank by pushing on the crank arms I can still hear a faint click. This rules out chainset, peddles, saddle rails, seatpost and headset. I also get the click if I change to the small chainring.
The chainring bolts are tight and the chain doesn’t appear to have any stiff links, so...
i was going to change it last week, but it turns out the BBR9100 requires a different tool to BBR60 as, even though they look identical to the naked eye, there is a couple of mm difference in the diameter.
Shimano are the best when it comes to fleecing the maximum amount of cash out of cyclists with their groupset upgrade path. I’m sure they could knock out DuraAce for a fraction of the current cost if that was all they had to tool up for. I imagine they make quite a bit from cyclists upgrading groupset components.
Anyway, I thought I’d replace the chain for a new one while I’m at it. I tend to favour the KMC X11EL over the shimano offerings so have a new one of those.
Is it just me who loves a nice new shiny chain fresh out of the packet?
The DuraAce 9100 BB has done just over 8,500 dry miles since I built the bike a couple of years ago and has recently started clicking. It doesn’t feel bad but I’m fairly sure it’s the bottom bracket as, with the bike in the stand and turning the crank by pushing on the crank arms I can still hear a faint click. This rules out chainset, peddles, saddle rails, seatpost and headset. I also get the click if I change to the small chainring.
The chainring bolts are tight and the chain doesn’t appear to have any stiff links, so...
i was going to change it last week, but it turns out the BBR9100 requires a different tool to BBR60 as, even though they look identical to the naked eye, there is a couple of mm difference in the diameter.
Shimano are the best when it comes to fleecing the maximum amount of cash out of cyclists with their groupset upgrade path. I’m sure they could knock out DuraAce for a fraction of the current cost if that was all they had to tool up for. I imagine they make quite a bit from cyclists upgrading groupset components.
Anyway, I thought I’d replace the chain for a new one while I’m at it. I tend to favour the KMC X11EL over the shimano offerings so have a new one of those.
Is it just me who loves a nice new shiny chain fresh out of the packet?
Bought thursday a steel rear rack extender for 2 euro.
It was a poor build, seem common these days, the side parts to keep bags etc away from the wheel had alot wiggle room, like 4-5 cm on their farest point, due to too long bolts, only 5 mm thread, undeep cross bolt heads, closed nuts and even plastic or whatever washer-looking soft plastic or rubber parts between the steel parts. On top of that, even rubber end caps on the frame tubes, through which the bolts also went.
As such, little to no tensioning was possible.
So I decided to dump those soft washers and to replace the bolts/nuts with better and correct length ones.
The original M5 bolts also went through holes that were abit too wide, so I arrived at the idea of tapping out them out to M6 using all 3 of a set of metric taps. So quite some work, 4 x 3 =12 times tapping.
The steel appeared thick enough to make that suffice on its own, still I decided to put nuts on top of them.
Result of the work is a very stiff and strong frame:
The welding of the steel tubing is also poor. Strong enough for the job, but it could have done better (longer welds). The main problem is that alot inner area is exposed to rust. So I will have to paint those places, or cover them with silicone.
Over some weeks vacation. I will then try to mount this frame on the bike in my avatar, that currently is extended by alu triangles, held in place with belts and polyester/nylon strapping.
I already had to reinforce the whole (used stainless construction torsion steel bars for it)
This rear frame extender would make it alot more proper looking than now.
At the price of some added weight (due to steel).
In order to support the back (alot weight can be there), I'll see if I can connect the lower parts of the bag supports to the bikes frame somehow and on top of the light support frame part, at the lowest point also a connection, as to get rid of the leverage weight can get.
It was a poor build, seem common these days, the side parts to keep bags etc away from the wheel had alot wiggle room, like 4-5 cm on their farest point, due to too long bolts, only 5 mm thread, undeep cross bolt heads, closed nuts and even plastic or whatever washer-looking soft plastic or rubber parts between the steel parts. On top of that, even rubber end caps on the frame tubes, through which the bolts also went.
As such, little to no tensioning was possible.
So I decided to dump those soft washers and to replace the bolts/nuts with better and correct length ones.
The original M5 bolts also went through holes that were abit too wide, so I arrived at the idea of tapping out them out to M6 using all 3 of a set of metric taps. So quite some work, 4 x 3 =12 times tapping.
The steel appeared thick enough to make that suffice on its own, still I decided to put nuts on top of them.
Result of the work is a very stiff and strong frame:
The welding of the steel tubing is also poor. Strong enough for the job, but it could have done better (longer welds). The main problem is that alot inner area is exposed to rust. So I will have to paint those places, or cover them with silicone.
Over some weeks vacation. I will then try to mount this frame on the bike in my avatar, that currently is extended by alu triangles, held in place with belts and polyester/nylon strapping.
I already had to reinforce the whole (used stainless construction torsion steel bars for it)
This rear frame extender would make it alot more proper looking than now.
At the price of some added weight (due to steel).
In order to support the back (alot weight can be there), I'll see if I can connect the lower parts of the bag supports to the bikes frame somehow and on top of the light support frame part, at the lowest point also a connection, as to get rid of the leverage weight can get.
Inspired by an idea from @raleighnut Ive made a fixed cup removal tool, this grips the cup and when you tighten it, as the cup
has a left hand thread, it removes it.
has a left hand thread, it removes it.
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raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
I's not my idea, I think I read it first on Sheldon Brown but it certainly works.
stoatsngroats
Legendary Member
- Location
- South East
Having moved, I’ve secured the bikes with a ground anchor, and made a place for the panniers to stay. I just have to make time to give the bikes a good clean, and then when the ‘new home’ jobs are done, we’ll be able to cycle again!
philtalksbx
Über Member
- Location
- Oxford
Started stripping a Raleigh Record Ace frame that I may swap the gear from my Claud Butler onto if it comes up nicely. It was a nice price on eBay, even in the current market and reasonably local, so resistance was useless.
It had a dent in the top tube and I had tried finding some frame rolling blocks or maybe finding some way of making my own. In the end I was rooting through a parts bin and found an old stem that was just about the right size. I cut it in half, clamped it in a workmate and found it did a decent job at reducing the depth of the dent. Happy days.
The result on the frame dent was pretty good.
That should come up well enough with some primer-filler, so what the hell, into it with the Nitromors.....
It had a dent in the top tube and I had tried finding some frame rolling blocks or maybe finding some way of making my own. In the end I was rooting through a parts bin and found an old stem that was just about the right size. I cut it in half, clamped it in a workmate and found it did a decent job at reducing the depth of the dent. Happy days.
The result on the frame dent was pretty good.
That should come up well enough with some primer-filler, so what the hell, into it with the Nitromors.....
Jenkins
Legendary Member
- Location
- Felixstowe
A few little jobs this morning while waiting for a sold bike to be collected.
New Charge Spoon saddle fitted to the Van Nicholas commuter replacing an older, scruffy one.
The replaced saddle was moved over to my Giant flatbar and I also finally got round to changing the chainrings on this bike from the standard 50/34 to a 48/36 combination.
Replaced the bottom bracket on the Spa Elan. First Hollowtech (BBR60 and came with the tool adapter) I've done and it was a bit disconcerting when I couldn't unscrew the plastic disc from the crank at first. A quick re-run of the YouTube video I'd checked when I ordered the BB revealed my error - it's crank bolts first, remove spacer THEN undo plastic disc. After that it was plain sailing - off with the old, on with the new and refit cranks, etc, followed by a quick test ride later in the afternoon.
New Charge Spoon saddle fitted to the Van Nicholas commuter replacing an older, scruffy one.
The replaced saddle was moved over to my Giant flatbar and I also finally got round to changing the chainrings on this bike from the standard 50/34 to a 48/36 combination.
Replaced the bottom bracket on the Spa Elan. First Hollowtech (BBR60 and came with the tool adapter) I've done and it was a bit disconcerting when I couldn't unscrew the plastic disc from the crank at first. A quick re-run of the YouTube video I'd checked when I ordered the BB revealed my error - it's crank bolts first, remove spacer THEN undo plastic disc. After that it was plain sailing - off with the old, on with the new and refit cranks, etc, followed by a quick test ride later in the afternoon.
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Bad Machine
In the garage .....
- Location
- East Anglia
My daughter said she was sure her Dad could help, rather than him having to take it to Halfords. Symptoms = "It wasn't changing gear properly". Remedy - "my Dad could have a look, he's on furlough".
So I got to work on her friend's Carerra Crossfire this evening. Front mech had slid down, and the rear mech had taken a bash, putting the limit screws at different angles.
The poor lad whose bike it was wasn't having a good week, having had a car accident on Monday. I'm not sure how long the threads on the rear mech will hold the limit screws, but everything works again, properly. Whilst I had it, the brakes benefitted from winding the pads in a little, and improving the tension on the cables. Tyres back up to pressure. Not difficult, but I know my daughter will take some pleasure in handing it back to him, knowing her Dad did that.
So I got to work on her friend's Carerra Crossfire this evening. Front mech had slid down, and the rear mech had taken a bash, putting the limit screws at different angles.
The poor lad whose bike it was wasn't having a good week, having had a car accident on Monday. I'm not sure how long the threads on the rear mech will hold the limit screws, but everything works again, properly. Whilst I had it, the brakes benefitted from winding the pads in a little, and improving the tension on the cables. Tyres back up to pressure. Not difficult, but I know my daughter will take some pleasure in handing it back to him, knowing her Dad did that.
Our pantry has always been a bit of mess and it’s not played well with my ocd.
It mostly has always doubled are tool store and other useful rammel. Most of the storage in the past has not really worked and not really fitted well. Now with added bike tools time was right for right solution. So had a look on ikea site found something and they arrived yesterday. So built them up and today refined what went in what place. 2 wall mounted storage units later and now one tidy pantry and one happy me. Also built up the replacement chair for the living room desk.
Then spent the afternoon giving the hound a fur cut. Been a while since I’ve done one and our last
dog was not the happiest at having it done either and had less fur due to his health conditions.
This one however just let’s you do want you want though he is a bit fidget. All in all I’ve not done bad.
It mostly has always doubled are tool store and other useful rammel. Most of the storage in the past has not really worked and not really fitted well. Now with added bike tools time was right for right solution. So had a look on ikea site found something and they arrived yesterday. So built them up and today refined what went in what place. 2 wall mounted storage units later and now one tidy pantry and one happy me. Also built up the replacement chair for the living room desk.
Then spent the afternoon giving the hound a fur cut. Been a while since I’ve done one and our last
dog was not the happiest at having it done either and had less fur due to his health conditions.
This one however just let’s you do want you want though he is a bit fidget. All in all I’ve not done bad.
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Nigelnightmare
Über Member
Never mind the "cowboy's", your poor little dog has to watch out for the "Indian scalp hunters".
My little Shi-Tzu is very laid back & easy going, she just lays in whatever position you put her in while you cut her hair.
Went for a ride between meetings today and the front disc brake on the kinesis had developed a monster screech.
Took the pads out and they were almost completely glazed over on both sides so five minutes with a file and some brake cleaner and the howl has gone.
Checked the caliper alignment and it wasn't great, I'd futzed with it at the road side after getting my new wheels so spent another couple of mins fixing that too.
Took the pads out and they were almost completely glazed over on both sides so five minutes with a file and some brake cleaner and the howl has gone.
Checked the caliper alignment and it wasn't great, I'd futzed with it at the road side after getting my new wheels so spent another couple of mins fixing that too.
philtalksbx
Über Member
- Location
- Oxford
I put a Campagnolo Veloce triple crankset onto the Claud now that the ISO bottom bracket has come. The bracket is a Centaur at 111mm. The crankset looks lovely.
The problem is getting the front mech to match up - its the Exage 300 that was on the bike originally, and there are two things I am struggling with.
The small ring on the crankset is 30 teeth and the mech is rubbing at the lower rear on the horizontal section, not the sides, so it seems to be too high for the vertical chain position. If I push it out manually it is at the right height to just clear the big ring, so I can't lower it. I guess the cage is too short for the 30 tooth crank and a longer version is required. Also, the mech doesn't seem to have the range on the high limit screw to make the full traverse needed for the triple. Lower limit screw is set ok, but the crank still has quite a bit of clearance to the frame. I wondered about a narrower bottom bracket but have only found ISO versions down to 107mm so far and the 2mm move inboard isn't going to change much as the outer face of the cage barely passes the big chainring at the moment.
So, are there specific front mechs with longer cages and wider limit screw range that will do a triple crank? I'm familiar with different cage lengths on rear mechs but this is a bit new for me at the front. The shifter is a downtube friction model so there are no issues with range or compatibility there. Rear mech is a Dura-Ace 7700 and the cassette is a 7 speed (at the moment but plan to go to 9 speed later on.)
The problem is getting the front mech to match up - its the Exage 300 that was on the bike originally, and there are two things I am struggling with.
The small ring on the crankset is 30 teeth and the mech is rubbing at the lower rear on the horizontal section, not the sides, so it seems to be too high for the vertical chain position. If I push it out manually it is at the right height to just clear the big ring, so I can't lower it. I guess the cage is too short for the 30 tooth crank and a longer version is required. Also, the mech doesn't seem to have the range on the high limit screw to make the full traverse needed for the triple. Lower limit screw is set ok, but the crank still has quite a bit of clearance to the frame. I wondered about a narrower bottom bracket but have only found ISO versions down to 107mm so far and the 2mm move inboard isn't going to change much as the outer face of the cage barely passes the big chainring at the moment.
So, are there specific front mechs with longer cages and wider limit screw range that will do a triple crank? I'm familiar with different cage lengths on rear mechs but this is a bit new for me at the front. The shifter is a downtube friction model so there are no issues with range or compatibility there. Rear mech is a Dura-Ace 7700 and the cassette is a 7 speed (at the moment but plan to go to 9 speed later on.)
Several reports of the tabs breaking off the quarter turn mounts of the Karoo computers so I decided to copy a modification I'd seen in the facebook owners group. It seems it was also a regular problem with certain Garmin models, as a product called 'Dog Ears' exists to repair them - essentially a machine aluminium cap that is glued and screwed over the broken garmin mounts.
Since my Karoo isn't actually broken, I didn't fancy the gluing bit. So instead the mod involved making an intermediate metal part that screws to the computer, for the 'dog ears' mount to screw to.
Here's the back of the karoo as standard on the left, and the dog ears cap on the right.
Normally I would CAD something up and get it machined but under the circumstances getting homework done in the lab is tough to justify so I decided to get the hacksaw and files out in the garage instead 😊
I had a look around for scraps of aluminium to use but instead chose one of several spare Hope pad blanks used for bleeding. For whatever reason I've got about 10 of them so figured I wouldn't miss one if it were to accidentally get chopped up
So I drilled a hole in it and screwed it to the back of the computer...
Unfortunately it didnt work, the dog ears kept sliding off - further refinement was going to be needed...
This seemed more promising
I retained the original locating hole to attach the lanyard to. Four holes in total were needed - the original through the middle at a slight angle to bolt it to the computer, one above and one below drilled and tapped for the dog ears to screw to, and one to the right to locate an anti-rotation pin through that locks in to the computer case to stop it spinning round when you try and attach or remove it 
And here it is reassembled in all its dog ears glory
It's not the most elegant engineering project I've been involved in, but I suspect it will do the job better than the original so I'm happy with it for now, at least until I can come up with something better
Since my Karoo isn't actually broken, I didn't fancy the gluing bit. So instead the mod involved making an intermediate metal part that screws to the computer, for the 'dog ears' mount to screw to.
Here's the back of the karoo as standard on the left, and the dog ears cap on the right.
Normally I would CAD something up and get it machined but under the circumstances getting homework done in the lab is tough to justify so I decided to get the hacksaw and files out in the garage instead 😊
I had a look around for scraps of aluminium to use but instead chose one of several spare Hope pad blanks used for bleeding. For whatever reason I've got about 10 of them so figured I wouldn't miss one if it were to accidentally get chopped up
So I drilled a hole in it and screwed it to the back of the computer...Unfortunately it didnt work, the dog ears kept sliding off - further refinement was going to be needed...
This seemed more promising
I retained the original locating hole to attach the lanyard to. Four holes in total were needed - the original through the middle at a slight angle to bolt it to the computer, one above and one below drilled and tapped for the dog ears to screw to, and one to the right to locate an anti-rotation pin through that locks in to the computer case to stop it spinning round when you try and attach or remove it And here it is reassembled in all its dog ears glory
It's not the most elegant engineering project I've been involved in, but I suspect it will do the job better than the original so I'm happy with it for now, at least until I can come up with something better
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
I get that 'rubbing on a couple of my bikes if I use too small a rear gear when on the inner ring of a triple.At least I know when I'm 'cross chaining' badly and change to the middle ring.
