What Have You Fettled Today?

[Gunk]

Started restoring my CB Olympic

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

I struggled to get up the motivation for a ride today so eventually I thought I'd fetch the Kingpin out and finally sort out the Sturmey Archer hub, now that I have the right cone spanner. The hub has some noticable drag so was clearly in need of a service - I've done it the cheat's way by buying a new-old-stock AW hub from SJS and swapping the internals. In the end it proved to be much easier than I'd feared, although cleaning off all the caked on oil/muck before starting took time and I didn't rush the job so as to make sure I didn't do anything silly.

The old internals look clean and in far better condition than I expected so I intend to use them to teach myself how to properly strip and service one of these hubs then put it aside as a spare.

While doing this job I've also changed the sprocket for a 17 tooth as the 18 tooth that the bike came with is a little too low geared for my liking (and an OE 16 tooth might be a bit on the tall side for the local hills). It feels good on a short test ride - looking forward to trying something a little longer fairly soon.

 

[biggs682]

Removed and re wrapped the fresh bar tape on my Specialized as previous person did from bottom of bars upwards badly
Once bar tape done swapped the stem out for a slightly longer one and then a quick road test to check all ok for the morning

 

[Spiderweb]

I have been trying to track down an irritating but elusive ticking noise which only appears when I am giving my singlespeed bike some stick. It usually only happens when I am riding uphill. Lower pedalling forces don't cause it.

It isn't the chain - the old one snapped and the noise is still happening with the new chain.

It isn't the pedals - I swapped in another pair and the noise remained.

It isn't the seatpost/saddle - the bike is still noisy when I pedal standing up.

I am (almost) certain that the tick isn't coming from the front of the bike so it isn't the bars, stem, fork, front wheel, headset or brake hoods.

I wondered about the bottom bracket. I checked it and thought I could feel a little play. I had found a really nice newish Chorus BB in my spare parts box so I swapped that in and... it feels smoother than the old one but the noise is still there.

The freehub is next to be investigated. I found another one in the spares box so that can be substituted for the current one. The new BB is slightly shorter than the old one so my previously perfectly chainline has been lost. It isn't bad now, but I need to move the sprocket by 1 spacer to get it perfect. I can check/replace the freehub while I am at it.

PS I forgot... I went to tighten the chainring bolts and 2 of the 5 are rounded off internally so the hex key slips. I can't make sure that they are tight enough. I'll have to get them out somehow and replace them with new ones. I'll look for a screwdriver with a blade the right size that I can hammer into the holes to get a grip.

I had a similar ticking issue on my Tricross. I went through everything to no avail. It sounded as though the annoyance was coming from the rear wheel so I put a tiny bit of grease in between the spokes where they cross, I also checked spoked tension, I’m certainly no expert but I tighten a few that felt or sounded to have less tension. Problem solved, no more ticks.

 

[ColinJ]

I had a similar ticking issue on my Tricross. I went through everything to no avail. It sounded as though the annoyance was coming from the rear wheel so I put a tiny bit of grease in between the spokes where they cross, I also checked spoked tension, I’m certainly no expert but I tighten a few that felt or sounded to have less tension. Problem solved, no more ticks.

Ah, that's one thing that I didn't think of!

Anyway, the freehub is off and the main wheel bearings feel a bit rough so I will replace those and see if the ticking goes away. If not, I'll look at those spokes next.

 

[Survivor Bikes]

I struggled to get up the motivation for a ride today so eventually I thought I'd fetch the Kingpin out and finally sort out the Sturmey Archer hub, now that I have the right cone spanner. The hub has some noticable drag so was clearly in need of a service - I've done it the cheat's way by buying a new-old-stock AW hub from SJS and swapping the internals. In the end it proved to be much easier than I'd feared, although cleaning off all the caked on oil/muck before starting took time and I didn't rush the job so as to make sure I didn't do anything silly.

The old internals look clean and in far better condition than I expected so I intend to use them to teach myself how to properly strip and service one of these hubs then put it aside as a spare.

While doing this job I've also changed the sprocket for a 17 tooth as the 18 tooth that the bike came with is a little too low geared for my liking (and an OE 16 tooth might be a bit on the tall side for the local hills). It feels good on a short test ride - looking forward to trying something a little longer fairly soon.

You’ve gotta love a Kingpin. Re the AW hub; Just don’t lose the pawl springs and you can’t go wrong. Its not a bad idea to use assembly oil (for engine building), when you reassemble them too. Clever little mechs, and really satisfying to service. Well, for me at least... Perhaps I should get out more.

 

[ColinJ]

Anyway, the freehub is off and the main wheel bearings feel a bit rough so I will replace those and see if the ticking goes away. If not, I'll look at those spokes next.

The spokes in the wheel do not actually touch each other, so that isn't the cause of the ticking noise.

 

[Grant Fondo]

New wheels going on later. Never swapped rotors etc before, fairly straightforward?

 

[Ming the Merciless]

New wheels going on later. Never swapped rotors etc before, fairly straightforward?
View attachment 529861

If centrelock then yes if six bolt watch you don’t strip the threads. For centre lock removal / fitting you use the same tool as for a shimano cassette.

 

[roley poley]

fitted new rotor to my front wheel yesterday and wondered why my alan keys didn't fit ?? A quick Google and found I needed a torx 25 so had a good look yup it's a star fitting not hex well I never knew that ! ! was thinking I needed some sort of 3.5 mm hex key ...will have a pootle around the empty sports centre car park today to break it in and see if my stopping power has improved

 

[biggs682]

Moved bikes around to get my Ian May and Viscount out ready for using .

Ian just needed a saddle, pedals refitting and some air in the tyres then a short road test .

The Viscount needs a bit more so it will have to wait a while .

 

[Gunk]

Weeding the drive is next job

 

[Gunk]

that looks new out of the box!

 

[carlosfandangus]

Just did a "stealth" job in the back garden, normally clean the bike at the front, however the crud from Fridays wetish ride, mostly off the roads meant more than 1 stiff link and the rear mech was covered in crud too, now dry and small sponge soaked in GT 40 to give the chain a good clean

Edited..... just didnt make any sense at all

 

[Vantage]

Swapped the Hypers out for the 'trekking' tyres as the next ride involves lots of canal path.
Made a newer tidier seatstay fitting for the rear mudguard using 2 chairing bolts and sleeves and a bit of tent pole repair sleeve.
Partially mowed the rear garden.
Took the lawnmower to bits to discover a snapped drive belt, hence the partially mowed lawn. New belt ordered.