What Have You Fettled Today?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

JhnBssll

Guru
Location
Suffolk
I've got this to deal with later :laugh:

493912


493913


Maybe I should have added the mudguard bosses to the frame afterall :whistle::laugh:
 
I've got this to deal with later :laugh:

View attachment 493912

View attachment 493913

Maybe I should have added the mudguard bosses to the frame afterall :whistle::laugh:
It would be a good idea. I went many a year without guards, only fitting them in 2017 and I thought why on earth did`nt I fit them before ? Nice bike by the way.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
Pretty exciting times then! Looking forward to some pics when it's ready for it's maiden voyage :okay:

Post lunch fettling.

Bolted rotor on rear wheel and fitted cassette. Removed spacer and put brake pads in. Fitted wheel back in frame. Disaster rotor was catching caliper. After a diagnosis of what was happening realised I had a 140mm IS / post mount adapter on rear. Rang local bike shop and they had a 160mm adapter in stock. After them setting it aside I pedalled across town on the Brompton to buy it. New adapter bolted on, and caliper bolted to that. Wheel refitted and success, as above loose caliper bolts, pull rear brake, tighten bolts, release brake.

Cut a length of outer gear housing for the rear derailleur bit. Trimmed shorter a few times, before finally happy, ferrules fitted, and cable clamped.

The last bit, fitting the chain. The recumbent requires approx 2.5 chains. So I joined three chains together with quick links. Threading the chain on a recumbent is slightly more involved as you have idlers and chain catchers to route correctly around. I looked at the manual that came with frame set for that. The chain seemed to have this amazing ability to form mini loops by itself. Finally threaded through and final quick link to complete the loop. Chain on big big, same as you'd do on a road bike. All joined but derailleur not in position I wanted. So chain slightly too long. Not sure how that happened. So I'll probably disconnect a quick link tomorrow and take the extra links out. If I don't do that tomorrow it won't get done.

Rain and losing the light stopped final checking gear shifts, setting limit screws, trim cables and fit end caps, end caps on mudguard stays and insulation tape on unused rear Dynamo light terminals to prevent shorting.

Maiden voyage tomorrow once I've shortened the chain a little more.
 
Last edited:

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
I've got this to deal with later :laugh:

View attachment 493912

View attachment 493913

Maybe I should have added the mudguard bosses to the frame afterall :whistle::laugh:

My new recumbent build has a rear mudguard. Unfortunately the front carbon fork doesn't have eyelets for guards. It does have the hole at top of fork crown. Being 406 wheel up front I doubt I'll find a race type guard fitting. But the back is the main one I wanted to keep the recumbent seat clean.
 

Jenkins

Legendary Member
Location
Felixstowe
I've got this to deal with later :laugh:

View attachment 493912

View attachment 493913

Maybe I should have added the mudguard bosses to the frame afterall :whistle::laugh:
Similar conditions to those that produced your mucky bike over the past couple of weeks is why today was a bike maintenance & cleaning day for me.

The Spa and Ventus that have been most used were treated to a full clean, frame polish and cleaning/lubing of the chain, while the Giant flatbar got the same treatment plus a new bottom bracket and a change of tyres to a pair of Schwalbe G-One Speeds ready for the winter. The good news was that the G-Ones at 35mm fit under the Raceblade XLs fitted to the Giant.

And the shed floor was then swept to clear up all the dirt removed from the bike frames & wheels!
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Picked up a scruffy B’twin Mountain bike this week for free, so this morning I spent a couple of hours preparing it for sale. It was seriously neglected, typical thrashed and trashed teenagers bike.

D994-AC49-DBD7-4-DD5-AEEC-D14-ECC89-B1-B6.jpg

4142-FFD9-BA7-F-4-AFB-B8-F8-5-DAA07-AC5-F15.jpg

I don’t usually jet wash bikes but with this one I didn’t really have a choice, it came up well though and after a good service it’s not too bad. Weighs a ton though, I can’t understand why it has to be quite so heavy!

But fingers crossed, I think we’ve sold it already.

F565-E7-DE-1-F80-4405-9376-9-AFEEA34-D8-A1.jpg
 
I was playing at repairing some rusty areas on my old Falcon yesterday and came across a problem which I have never encountered before .
I've had to treat several areas as apart from looking bad I discovered that the rust was starting to pit .
Treating the rust wasn't the problem. It was trying to match the existing paint which has proved to be a bit of a nightmare!
The colour is a greenish candy blue . I made an approximate match using a green and a royal blue candy.
The rusty area was treated and primed in the normal way and a base layer of bright silver was sprayed on .
The next stage is where I ran into problems. Applying the colour!
With metallic and straight colours once you have built up enough coats to cover the colour remains the same .
With candy colours each coat will darken the previous colour.
This is where my problems started. I had to spray on enough coats to cover the bright silver and achieve the correct colour . But in doing so the overspray was also darkening the surrounding colour. This wouldn't be a problem using normal colours as the overspray wouldn't darken the existing colour except if the colour was wrong. A method of fading would sort out any miss match by either arcing the spraygun or thinning the paint to blend the colours in .
This method hasn't worked on my frame and has created a halo effect of a dark edge to the repair which then fades into the existing paintwork.
It reminds me of a problem one can get when spraying silver which can leave a dark edge to a repair .
As I say this is a new experience which will need some thought !
One solution would be to do complete sections only by getting the colour spot on before lacquering .
I thought I would share this headache !
 

JhnBssll

Guru
Location
Suffolk
I didn't get round to cleaning the Veturi yesterday so gave it some TLC this morning instead. I also took the opportunity to put the new wheels in and relegate the deep section ones to the spares hook for the winter :laugh: They may still be promoted back to primary wheels if the new centrelock rotors don't arrive this week but they should be here any day now :whistle:

I think it looks rather nice still with these wheels :becool:

494037


I'm a bit dissappointed with the quality of them unfortunately - I picked them up second hand but unused, which was clearly the case, but the rear had a couple of loose spokes and wasn't dished correctly 😖 This only became obvious when I spun the wheel in the frame and a couple of spokes pinged off the brake caliper :rolleyes: On inspection it wasn't sitting centrally in the seat stays either so out came the spoke key :laugh:

494038


494036


Once I'd corrected the wheel the chain went back on and she got put back to bed :laugh:

494035


Once the rotors arrive I think I'll take the first few hundred miles fairly easy since the wheels are a) ghetto tubeless and b) of questionable heritage :laugh: Maybe they weren't quite the bargain they seemed to be but only time will tell :rolleyes: Fortunately the front wheel is straight and true so I've not had to touch that :laugh:
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
Finished recumbent build.

So basically front and rear gear tuning and cable cutting, end caps on. End caps on mudguard stays. Shortened chain by 6 links as slightly too long when fitted yesterday. Seat lace tightened, and zip ties fully tensioned for securing front of seat to frame.

Initial test ride reveals (in no particular order). Super super comfy despite lack of supension. It just soaks up the holes with nothing harsh being transmitted to me through seat or bars. I'm going to love riding this bike, feels like piloting a fighter jet. Lighter than my road bike, and just as fast uphill, faster all other terrain. Easy to balance riding one handed and brief brief bit of no handed as well. Took weeks to get that far with previous recumbent. Feels higher up, and better in traffic for seeing what's happening than my previous recumbent. Can balance down to about 2mph. Forgotten how awesome hydraulic brakes feel having not ridden my mtn bike for a while. Glad I opted for them when choosing the components I wanted to build with.

Snags to be sorted. Left hand electrical tape securing bar tape needs tacking to seal the ends down. Need to play with boom length, and clamping bolts as slipped under load on first hill I was powering up. Rear gear cable tension needs a minor tune as derailleur not perfectly aligned below cogs. Mirrors on handlebars need some rubber shims to stop them slipping round.

But overall I have a super wide grin on my face. What an ace bike I've built from the frameset, super comfy and more aero than any road bike out there.

dGOd8EpLUsBUtr7QEl9btAVgMQi4Hu7V9QJVcF1mp6dQ=w2400.jpg

7ZgBDqntF8v8R3R4gCT_Y58Dgt8pYVdMIU-eqJNbz-2w=w2400.jpg

2yv9BcLvw0Tb_Q6w5HaxoJlSg8ba1yieIdTdgKB8vCrA=w2400.jpg
 

Mike_P

Guru
Location
Harrogate
Fitted the road bike with its new cassette; slight panic when the Aldi tool kit only referenced a flywheel tool but it fitted okay and was fooled by the lockring seeming not to loosen when it fact it had. Carefully slotted on the rings of the new cassette and found the lockring would not tighten - um,.. something obviously not right with the rings. Fiddled with them and suddenly whatever was causing them to be too wide overall disappeared and the lockring tightened:okay:
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom