What Have You Fettled Today?

[biggs682]

A wheel bearing day today two front hubs stripped cleaned and regreased
A rear rim hopefully straightened
A bike packed and boxed up ready for shipment
So quite a good day

 

[Nigelnightmare]

Saturday.
ICE Qnt
Changed the front dynamo light from AXA 70 luxx to B&M IQ-X 100 luxx. Fitted & wired in a USB Werk ac.
The light is brilliant and mounted lower (16") it gives a longer beam without blinding other road users
Waiting for phone mount to arrive for proper testing.
ICE XL
Fitted & wired in (inside the frame) AXA 70 luxx + B&M topline + (front & rear lights).
Waiting for the "Sunup eco maxidyn" spoke drive rear dynamo to arrive.
Sunday
ICE XL
Respaced a Shimano Ultegra 6500 rear hub to 135mm OLD (new axle/spacers & QR but original cones/locknuts).
Then dismantled the rear wheel, cleaned the rim an Alexrims DV15 & rebuilt using the Ultegra hub + new spokes. The old hub was a Deore FH-M510 but the cups were worn/pitted
LINEAR LWB
Renewed the steering/Handlebars bearings, fitted new barends & mounted the brake levers and gear changers to them.
Repaired the butchered Mirrycle bar end mirror.
The previous owner had tapped out the captive nuts to M4 for some reason! then used "Glue" instead of "Loctite".
They made a right mess of it managing to break the arm at the bolt, I replaced the captive nuts & put in new bolts.
I had to cut the broken end of the arm off and drill a hole for the connecting bolt. It's now about 10mm shorter But it works as it should.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

That saddle looks ACE on that bike. What did you use to make the mudflap?

Thanks.

The mudflap is made from damp proof course. After seeing it suggested elsewhere I got a roll to experiment with and it seems a pretty good material for the task - rip resistant and just the right flexibility. By the time it's shaped to fit you'd have to look quite closely to know it isn't a pukka one.

 

[Gravity Aided]

I started work on both my Bianchi Squadra and my old Giant Chinook today. The Chinook was an old base model MTB. But the frame is 23", and I have all the parts from a smaller Giant MTB that is newer, with indexed shifting and more than 10 speeds.

 

[EltonFrog]

Thanks.

The mudflap is made from damp proof course. After seeing it suggested elsewhere I got a roll to experiment with and it seems a pretty good material for the task - rip resistant and just the right flexibility. By the time it's shaped to fit you'd have to look quite closely to know it isn't a pukka one.

What a great idea.
Did you know there’s a Kingpin group ride on Sunday?

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

What a great idea.
Did you know there’s a Kingpin group ride on Sunday?

I didn't know. I'm afraid I have plans for the weekend though.

 

[Leaway2]

Singlespeed fettling saga, episode 27:

I repaired my chainwhip ready to have another go at removing the stuck-fast lockring. Broke the chainwhip again. Repaired the chainwhip again but STILL can't get the damn lockring off! I actually chiselled off one of the spacers to try and loosen the lockring but it didn't help... I reckon the problem might be due to corrosion.

It dawned on me that pouring boiling water on the lockring will probably make it tighter. Perhaps I could try freezing it?

An alternative might be to bypass the chainwhip and clamp the sprocket in a vice. I don't actually own one though... It would be quite a handy thing to own so I might buy one.

PS I had a flash of inspiration - I used a Mole Grip instead of a vice to hold the sprocket. Result... the damn lockring still won't budge, but at least I am not re-re-breaking the chainwhip! I am using such a ridiculous level of force now that I am worried that I am going to wreck the wheel or injure myself if something suddenly slips or breaks. The next attempt may involve the use of a hammer! Either that, or get someone else to hold the Mole Grip so I could try standing on the 12 inch spanner, or use something long and strong to extend the spanner (scaffold pipe!?). The lockring tool is starting to deform under the load so that itself could break.

Did you succeed? Decatlhon sell a solid alternative to a chainwhip. Being a single speed it may not have the correct tooth number.

Edit: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip-cassette-remover-id_8309913.html

 

[ColinJ]

Did you succeed? Decatlhon sell a solid alternative to a chainwhip. Being a single speed it may not have the correct tooth number.

Edit: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip-cassette-remover-id_8309913.html

Thanks for asking... I finally succeeded just now and am celebrating with a pot of coffee!

I gave up on repairing the chainwhip, though I will repair it again later for routine maintenance. This job clearly needed a chainwhip on steroids so I made one which would be up to the task in hand. Or rather - foot! I hammered the bottom of the sprocket into a big piece of timber and screwed a length of chain over the top of it.

I balanced the timber on the edge of a patio and put one foot on that to stop it moving. I then stood on the 12" spanner with my other foot. It took some bouncing on the spanner to finally get something to give...

... which was a tooth on the sprocket, which I managed to snap off! I tried again a couple of times and I finally felt the lockring move. Hoo-bloody-ray!

It took quite a bit more effort to unscrew the lockring; there did seem to be some corrosion involved in the problems I'd been having.

Anyway, I got the old worn sprocket off. The broken tooth didn't matter because I was replacing the sprocket. I put the new one on, reassembled everything and replaced the wheel in the dropouts to check that I'd got the right number of spacers either side of the sprocket. (I had broken several spacers with my muscular efforts over the past few days and had to hunt around for replacements. I might have cocked up the sprocket alignment and spoiled my perfect chainline.)

Nope, the sprocket was perfectly positioned. Unfortunately, I had forgotten to service the freehub while I had the chance... Oh, FFS!!!!!!

Back to DIY-chainwhip-on-steroids...

Fortunately, it all came apart properly this time - no messing about for days. Sure enough, the hub's internals were full of gunk so I cleaned everything, gave it all a very light lube, and reassembled it. Put the spacers and sprocket back on - again - and replaced the wheel in the dropouts.

I then replaced the badly-worn chain with a lightly-used chain with plenty of life left in it. I had calculated that if I cut the replacement chain to one pair of links more than the original, then I would probably be able to slide the wheel axle to the back of the dropouts to tension the chain. Drum roll...

... perfect!

The chain should last a long time because it will only get light use indoors on the turbo trainer bike. I will buy a half-link to use when it finally does start to elongate - by taking a pair of links out and putting a half-link in, I could slide the wheel forward in the dropouts and still have chain tension.

Now I want to replace the handlebar on the bike and get it back on the turbo trainer.

I have lots of fettling to do on my other bikes but I'd prefer to get a couple of long rides done first while we still have enough hours of daylight. One job that I shouldn't put off though is replacing the worn rear tyre on my best bike. A tiny thorn punctured it on my last century ride and I don't think that it would have got through a decent thickness of tread.

 

[ColinJ]

PS That Decathlon tool looks nicer than a chainwhip, though I must confess that I have never had this kind of problem when using a chainwhip before. I will just have to be more careful when tightening lockrings in future!

 

[Heigue'r]

Great solution @ColinJ

 

[ColinJ]

Great solution @ColinJ

Thanks!

I confess that I was not only relieved, but chuffed that my idea worked.

One thing that I forgot to mention in any of my posts on the subject for anybody who hasn't done this job before ... It is very easy for the tool to slip out of the lockring when you are trying to undo it. If you look at my photo of the DIY chainwhip, you can see the answer to that problem - use the quick release to hold the tool in place!

 

[crossfire]

So there is a place in this life for brute force, well done. It was only trying to test your ingenuity.
I always think close pass drivers are just trying to see how good I am, same as when I was a bus driver, badly parked cars were just testing my skills

 

[ColinJ]

So there is a place in this life for brute force, well done. It was only trying to test your ingenuity.

Well, it was my own hamfistedness that had created the situation in the first place.

It was only a cheap 10 year old Mavic Aksium wheel so it wouldn't have been worth spending significant money on sorting out the problem. I decided I would use whatever force was necessary to either sort it out or kill it completely!

 

[crossfire]

sort it out or kill it completely!
that showed it.

 

[tom73]

Mrs 73 happily shredding away then informed "we need a new shredder"
Had a play around and nothing then a quick check of the plug ... bingo a loose wire a quick turn of the screwdriver and mrs 73 is back happily shredding once more Sure know how to treat the Mrs