What Have You Fettled Today?

[Rickshaw Phil]

According to Spa...

"A similar crank to the classic XD-2 but with all five crank arms visible"

The XD2 is the one that just came off so I'm clueless atm.
The bolts tightened gradually rather than stopping dead so I don't think bottoming out is a cause. There's maybe another half turn on them if I go mental on them but I've a history of stripping threads so not risking that one

They're similar but not the same. Spa recommend a 110mm bottom bracket for the XD2 but a 113mm for the TD2. Was thinking of a TD2 for my Raleigh at some point so thought it convenient that it matches what I've already got.

Assuming you don't have clearance problems it should work okay after adjustment - just won't give the optimum chain line.

 

[the stupid one]

Fitted new cantilever brakes to the Ridgeback, having watched the excellent Park Tools tutorial on YouTube. Went pretty smoothly, though the rears need a bit more tweaking (and possibly new cabling, damn it). The front brakes took me by surprise when I had a quick test ride - very effective indeed.

 

[Vantage]

They're similar but not the same. Spa recommend a 110mm bottom bracket for the XD2 but a 113mm for the TD2. Was thinking of a TD2 for my Raleigh at some point so thought it convenient that it matches what I've already got.

Assuming you don't have clearance problems it should work okay after adjustment - just won't give the optimum chain line.

I noticed that doozy earlier today. As per earlier posts my current is a 110 so taking a trip out tomorrow to try get hold of a 113. Oopsie

 

[HLaB]

I got back from a tiring 113miles yesterday and was just chilling out then around 9pm there was a loud whoosh resulting in a flat tyre. Well at least it held up till I got home. Its tubeless and I was cursing the new finish line sealant. It turned out although the new tyre was perfect it was a hole that no sealant would fill. The rim tape that Hunt put on was so thin and light after a few months it eventually gave way over one of the spoke holes. So once diagnosed that was fixed with new rim tape and sealant.

Now to today's fettling, sod's law I wake up to a p'ture on the other wheel It had a tube though so it was only a 5-10 mins job

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Stuck the tiny little 'We Ride Together' roundel sticker from British Cycling on my seat-post.

Managed to position it precisely in line with the longitudinal axis of the bike too.

 

[biggs682]

Just fitted some new tyres to the Dayton Roadmaster

 

[Vantage]

Fitted some cheap piece of crap VP bottom bracket till I get hold of a proper one.
I'll give it a month before it starts playing up.

 

[si_c]

Have the bike a proper clean. Wet weather last week and dirty roads meant it was pretty filthy.

Also took the opportunity to tweak the braking response.

 

[mikeymustard]

After the other half broke the vintage deore rear derailleur on her Purple Ronnie 80s Raleigh while we were on our hols, I set about replacing it with a claris mech I had lying around. Less than an hour later I had it changing like a new machine. It's only got a 7 speed block so it needed some adjustment

 

[ColinJ]

I spent years thinking that the answer to my backache on the bike was to fit a shorter stem, flip it, and raise it with spacers. It turns out that I was wrong!

I borrowed an otherwise identical bike off my cousin on holiday a couple of years ago and realised that his longer unflipped stem suited me better so I bought a longer stem for my bike and used it 'unflipped'. That was an improvement.

What I didn't do was to try moving the spacers to above the stem. There were 3 x 5 mm spacers below the stem. This evening I moved 2 of them to above the stem and did a hilly 34 km test ride. The results seem promising. I'll move the last spacer up before my next ride and see how I get on with that position.

I'll take a photo of the bike once I have dropped the stem as far as it will go. It might be that I would benefit from an even lower position but the only other thing I could do to lower the bars further would be to fit a stem with zero or even negative rise. The current one slopes up by a few degrees when unflipped (and by a lot more degrees when flipped).

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Fettled a saucer with water and placed end of garden for the birds

 

[delb0y]

Front brakes all back on with new cables and nicely cleaned up hangers. Old pedals back on (with bit of a clean)... Old chain back on (it's a bit too long methinks now I've changed the front gear-rings, but that's why it's the old chain. I can experiment until I get the length right then put the new one on.) Rear derailleur cabled up and actually works. (New mtb) front derailleur cabled up and Shiftmate installed and... well it kind of works. It's close enough that I think the theory will prove true. It was so hot in the garage that once I got it pretty close I bailed. So the Tricross actually looks and works like a proper bike again, bar-tape excepted. Next step is to get the chain length right then spend some time adjusting the front gearing, angles, heights, tensions, etc.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

A bit of unexpected fettling:

I got a call from the friend I sold a bike to asking if he could bring it round. The reason became clear very quickly as the right hand brake lever had snapped off. He'd only found it when getting the bike out of the shed, which was fortunate (possibly been knocked over by young son?) and also by good fortune I had some old but suitable replacements sitting in my spares box so those were swapped over, set up and lubricated so he has working brakes again.

Feels good having solved a problem that easily.

 

[delb0y]

More of the same, today. Measured the old chain properly and refitted it. Re-did all the front derailleur positioning and cabling again - and now it changes up and down much better. Still not quite as sweet as I want - but not a bad first effort at mixing mountain bike bits with STI shifters with no idea as what I was doing. Now need to put the proper chain on, cut and tidy all the cables, re-adjust the front brake, put on the bar-tape and it'll be road-test time.

 

[13 rider]

During my holiday the roadie acquired an annoying click on most pedal revolutions . Narrowed it down to non drive side crank area . Convinced it's was the bottom bracket press fit into a carbon frame which would be a job for the lbs . Before I took it I thought a give the spd pedals a service having bought the special tool of eBay last year . Stripped the pedals bit gunky but not too bad . Regressed everything resembled and today's ride silence feeling a bit smug nice sense of achievement fixing an issue myself