What Have You Fettled Today?

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EckyH

Senior Member
At home I noticed that the right pedal has play between the axle and the pedal body. Hopefully I can tighten the pedal bearings a bit tomorrow.
This "tomorrow" was yesterday and I didn't do it because I found two pairs of PD-M520 - a black pair and a silver pair. For "colour" contrast reasons I picked the black pair and put on the bicycle.
IMG_20240317_181054_01.jpg

But after some pedal strokes I noticed... crack-crack-crack-crack-crack.
Calm down, Ecky.
Again notable bearing slackness.

Back home I grabbed the PD-M505 and took off the outer nut on the pedal axle. Then there is the cone nut - no groove in the axle, therefore no washer with internal tab to prevent unwanted movement of the cone nut when tightening the outer nut. 🤦‍♂️
After some minutes and some more curses into the direction of the Shimano head quarter I sorted it out, put the pedals onto the cranks, did a short re-hear-sal: silence. Finally. For now.

E.
 

Yeah but, will it squash empty cans for the recycle bin?
 
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dhd.evans1

Well-Known Member
Decided to take the kids out on a bike ride on Saturday; knowing my son's predilection for rallying his bike around and paying it little to no respect i felt it best to check that everything was safe and working. It's a recycled Carrera Vengeance from my work that I breathed life back into.

- Cable outer for the rear brake had come out of the guide on the left seat stay. It had clearly been rubbing on his rear wheel making an absolute bollocking racket, but evidently he'd not noticed it? At any rate the outer was worn but not banjaxed so one cable tie later it was reseated into the guide
- The rear mech looked dinged and whipping up and down gears precipitated the unmistakeable 'ding ding ding' of the mech contacting spoke. Sure enough the rear hanger was bent. Some manual persuasion to bring it into line and then resetting the limit screw on both ends, retensioning the cable and the indexing the gears to 'ok' levels of working.
- His front mech was seized with sand and mud. Blasted with GT85 and some manual handling convinced it to continue working for another day. Checked the limit screws as he'd been complaining of chain drop and everything looked OK.

That nonsense done, i figured i might as well check daughter's bike. Her's is a 24in wheeled Cuda Mayhem also recycled from my work:

- M check proved everything was sound but there is play in the cones on the rear wheel. Further to that there's a buckle in it that i've not addressed properly
- Buckle kept clipping the rear brake blocks so had to loosen the cable and readjust the tension on both sides; not as nippy as i would like a brake to be but having spent most of the morning unfudging my son's bike it'll do
- Slight tweak on rear mech barrel adjuster to index the gears a little better
- Took a brief look at the front mech which seemed to be fine but upon riding her gear useage (a skill she needs to learn a bit better) made the noises of poorly adjusted limit screws; guess i'll have to look at that this week.

I went out to the garage to change the stem on my bike. That was the whole thing i went to do and yet, here I am, fixing everyone's elses bikes....
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Ultegra chain(s) arrived via Wiggle, so one was fitted to the CX bike, the SRAM chain back in the box (it's rotated with another SRAM chain on my FS MTB).

Currently trying to fettle a zip on a cycling backpack. It's seized solid due to an energy gel bursting ! Tried soaking in warm water, GT85 etc. Decided to cut a slot on the inside so I could get the contents out and then put it in the washer. I did find two £10 notes in there - one 'gelled' up solid. Fortunately, being plastic, I'll wash them.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
About 2-3 years ago I replaced my crankset, its due again which reminded me i'd left the old one at my dads because i couldn't get the pedals off.

I've been soaking it with plus gas each time I call with little effect..

Yesterday i tried to get the pedals out, but they still wouldn't shift even putting as much pressure as i dared on them with a 24" bar.

So I admitted defeat and attacked with the grinder, then once i'd got close hammer and drift to crack open the hole

1710847138677.png


They came out.

Now I can't remember where I put the pedals.
 

PeteXXX

Cake or ice cream? The choice is endless ...
Photo Winner
Location
Hamtun
Well.. Not so much 'fettled today' as be 'fettling next week'..

View attachment 724443

11 miles in, gear change and this happened! I was thinking of single speeding it and riding it back but the chain was jammed (and my daughter lives close by and got a lift home)

Well.. I've narrowed down what's wrong..

DSC_4297~2.JPG


😛
 

Dadam

Über Member
Location
SW Leeds
The stay brackets have come off the plastic guard of the rear mudguard on my commuter, leading to the guard flopping about and must have been causing the rattle I've been hearing. These steel brackets go inside the guard and are riveted in place. The rivets have sheared, probably due to rust and vibration.

So I just spent a couple of hours removing the rear wheel, epoxying the the brackets to the guard and refitting and replacing the wheel, also cleaning the bike. It's a pain to remove the wheel on this bike due to being an e-conversion. Only to have one of them come off again while refitting and the realisation that the epoxy is probably not bonding well to the plastic, so the other one may not be far behind it! 😩
Realised what I should have done was drilled the rivets out (probably could have just popped the remnants out with a punch) and used a couple of small nuts and bolts. 🤦‍♂️ With the half hour waiting for the glue to set it may even be quicker!
 

Rickshaw Phil

Overconfidentii Vulgaris
Moderator
The stay brackets have come off the plastic guard of the rear mudguard on my commuter, leading to the guard flopping about and must have been causing the rattle I've been hearing. These steel brackets go inside the guard and are riveted in place. The rivets have sheared, probably due to rust and vibration.

So I just spent a couple of hours removing the rear wheel, epoxying the the brackets to the guard and refitting and replacing the wheel, also cleaning the bike. It's a pain to remove the wheel on this bike due to being an e-conversion. Only to have one of them come off again while refitting and the realisation that the epoxy is probably not bonding well to the plastic, so the other one may not be far behind it! 😩
Realised what I should have done was drilled the rivets out (probably could have just popped the remnants out with a punch) and used a couple of small nuts and bolts. 🤦‍♂️ With the half hour waiting for the glue to set it may even be quicker!

A cable tie threaded through the rivet holes is surprisingly effective. With the head of the tie on the underside of the guard it even looks neat. The front mudguard on my Raleigh has been held together like this since 2011
 

Dadam

Über Member
Location
SW Leeds
A cable tie threaded through the rivet holes is surprisingly effective. With the head of the tie on the underside of the guard it even looks neat. The front mudguard on my Raleigh has been held together like this since 2011

Like it, thanks. Wish I'd thought of that yesterday! I'm WFH today but I don't fancy faffing about with it again in this rain.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Set up the wheels on the carbon finally and adjusted the brakes as the rims are wider , followed by trueing the back wheel as it wasn't perfect .
Transferred the old best wheels to the yellow bike as second best as although they are narrow profile they are still decent wheels and then gave the bike a quick wash ready for the weekend, i did check the chain and it needs replacing but i have 8 or 11 in stock and no 10s :sad:
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
Bit more work on the Woodrup and it's ready for bar tape. I quite like the Widget Premium Tacky Wrap, which we have on son no. 2's track bike, so I used it on this having bought some for £7 via eBay. The last job will be to fit a late 1990's red/white bottle cage when I source one at a not-stupid price.

PXL_20240322_170805261.jpg


Also, the Thompson Capella was pulled out. I thought I'd done a crankset swap last year from 52/36 to 50/34 but wasn't sure; I'd actually just swapped the Dura-Ace chainrings to Absolute Black ones. I've done a crankset swap from 170 to 172.5 for me, changed the chainrings so they're 50/34 and the 170mm crankset's off to one of son no. 2's bikes when it gets here during April.
 
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