What frame size do you ride

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freiston

Veteran
Location
Coventry
55cm and I'm 5'9" with a trouser-fit inside leg of 32". I consider the size to be good for me. I reckon I could go smaller comfortably but certainly not larger.

It's the one in my avatar picture (and posted elsewhere on these boards)

Full frame geometry (inches/mm):

CENTRE of BB to TOP of TT = 21.57/548
EFFECTIVE TT LENGTH = 21.93/557
HT ANGLE = 71.5 ̊
ST ANGLE = 73 ̊
CHAINSTAY = 17.32/440
WHEELBASE = 40.90/1039
FORK RAKE = 1.97/50
BB HEIGHT = 11.26/286
HEADTUBE = 5.91/150
STANDOVER = 32.56/827

Stem is 105mm and the cranks are 170mm.
 

CanucksTraveller

Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Location
Hertfordshire
I'm 6 foot; I ride a 58cm Trek hybrid which feels like a very tall frame rather than long, (I feel like I'm on a penny farthing and I have to slide off the saddle at lights if there's no curb to rest my left foot). It's a standard stem and the reach is good so it's the right size probably.
I also ride a M/L size Giant which I find a little more comfortable overall height wise, but then it's a compact geometry which may be a factor. The reach on that one is also fine.
 

GuyBoden

Guru
Location
Warrington
I'm 6'1" and I fit on frames with a 59-63cm seat tube (measured centre of bottom bracket to top of seat tube c-t). Any horizontal top tube (or imaginary Top Tube) shorter than 57cm c-c and I feel squashed.

This size is based on the measurements by Ron Spencer, when I bought one of his custom road bikes in the early 1980's, but it wasn't called a "bike fit" in those days.

Unfortunately, my custom Ron Spencer road Bike was stolen many years ago, but it looked like this.
7549981.jpg
 

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cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
[QUOTE 4506703, member: 9609"]What measurement is everyone talking about ? centre of bottom bracket to top of seat post ?[/QUOTE]

Normally centre of bottom bracket to centre of top tube, but some manufacturers tweak it.

I thought bike sizes were by virtual top tube as the differences in compact, semi compact and traditional frames muddy the waters so much.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
I'm 6 foot; I ride a 58cm Trek hybrid which feels like a very tall frame rather than long, (I feel like I'm on a penny farthing and I have to slide off the saddle at lights if there's no curb to rest my left foot). It's a standard stem and the reach is good so it's the right size probably.
I also ride a M/L size Giant which I find a little more comfortable overall height wise, but then it's a compact geometry which may be a factor. The reach on that one is also fine.

I'm 5'9" and ride 54cm new frames/56cm old 'skool'. But I get you there about feeling high, but that's only on my new 27.5 MTB - good god, I nearly need step ladders. High MTB BB, big wheels, it is a big bike !!
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
FORK RAKE = 1.97/50
It's not 'rake' it's 'offset'. Rake, if used, is an angle: the same as the head tube angle. Offset is a distance: in your case 2".
 

CanucksTraveller

Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Location
Hertfordshire
Yebbut sloping top tubes are ugly and should be shunned ;)

How very dare you. Mike Burrows' TCR design paved the way for much increased stiffness and lightness for most of the tour pro bikes today, and the sloping design is a modern icon.

(However I note the smiley, and aesthetically, nothing beats a 1980s Pinarello or Colnago for me!)
 

RedRider

Pulling through
<<<that bike's 59 square, there's about seven or eight fingers of seatpost showing with I think a 110 stem. It fits great and I'm 6'3.
I find bike geometry / fit a bit of a mystery. Currently on the lookout for a second hand frame/bike for a fixed gear winter ride / commuter. I like to feel stretched out but do I need to wait for a long top tube ie 58-61 or could differences in angles etc get the fit i like?
 
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freiston

Veteran
Location
Coventry
It's not 'rake' it's 'offset'. Rake, if used, is an angle: the same as the head tube angle. Offset is a distance: in your case 2".
I just quoted the manufacturer's data sheet. Other sources use rake and offset interchangeably and give distance not angle to quantify it:

Dave Moulton's Bike Blog said:
Wikipedia said:
Sheldon Brown said:

Edit: Following the footnote link in Wikipedia, there is another article which says:
"The fork offset is the perpendicular distance from the steering axis to the center of the front wheel.

In bicycles, fork offset is also called fork rake. Road racing bicycle forks have an offset of 40–50 mm (1.6–2.0 in).[6]

The offset may be implemented by curving the forks, adding a perpendicular tab at their lower ends, offseting the fork blade sockets of the fork crown ahead of the steerer, or by mounting the forks into the crown at an angle to the steer tube. The development of forks with curves is attributed to George Singer.[7]

In motorcycles with telescopic fork tubes, fork offset can be implemented by either an offset in the triple tree, adding a triple tree rake[8] (usually measured in degrees from 0) to the fork tubes as they mount into the triple tree, or a combination of the two.[9] Other, less-common motorcycle forks, such as trailing link or leading link forks, can implement offset by the length of link arms."​
 
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freiston

Veteran
Location
Coventry
<<<that bike's 59 square, there's about seven or eight fingers of seatpost showing with I think a 110 stem. It fits great and I'm 6'3.
I find bike geometry / fit a bit of a mystery. Currently on the lookout for a second hand frame/bike for a fixed gear winter ride / commuter. I like to feel stretched out but do I need to wait for a long top tube ie 58-61 or could differences in angles etc get the fit i like?
I'm no expert but everything plays a part - angles affect tube lengths which affects angles etc. You need to think of where the pedals are in relation to the head tube as well as where the saddle is. "Reach" in a frame is the distance from a point vertical of the centre of the bottom bracket, horizontally to the centre of the top of the head tube. So the head angle will affect reach, the seat angle (together with seat rail position) will affect your centre of gravity and both will affect (effective) top tube length. Stem length will affect your riding position too. The general rule is to sort out your seat position/centre of gravity relative to your pedals and then start tinkering with handlebar height and stem length. I would think that a longer effective top tube would also mean a longer reach and I assume that by stretched out, you mean more forward with a long torso - which would necessitate the saddle going back to 'counterbalance', but I'm no expert and I would advise you to do more research/get more opinion - and I dare say there are many very varied opinions ;)
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Apologies for being off thread topic.
Various demonstrations of misuse of 'rake', or acknowledgement of widespread (misinformed) misuse as an alternative. 'Rake' sounds like an angle, don't you think? 'Offset' is definitely a distance.
Using them interchangeably makes for poor communications - that's the point. Offset can only mean one thing. Rake has many meanings, of which its misuse for 'rake' is but one.

Wikipedia on "Rake"
  • Rake, the caster angle of a bicycle or motorcycle
  • Rake angle, a parameter in machining and cutting geometry
The first leads to the same wiki and offers:
The steering axis angle, also called caster angle or head angle, is the angle that the steering axis makes with the horizontal or vertical, depending on convention. The steering axis is the axis about which the steering mechanism (fork, handlebars, front wheel, etc.) pivots. The steering axis angle usually matches the angle of the head tube.

Steering axis angle
220px-Fork-rake.jpg

Telescopic forks on a BMW motorcycle reveal the steering axis angle, also called the rake angle
220px-Chopper_with_long_rake.JPG

Example of a chopper with an unusually large rake angle
 

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