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bridgy

Legendary Member
Location
Cheddar
Can you find anything online that states frame size description relates to top tube length?
Yes, Ribble relate frame size for compact frame designs to effective top tube length - https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/blog/choosing-correct-size-road-bike-geometry-explained/

From that page:

The length of the toptube is the most important measurement to consider when choosing a bike. Frame geometries will always give an effective toptube length (C measurement in the image below) which is the horizontal distance from the centre of the headtube to the centre of the seatpillar. This is a much more accurate number to use because it eliminates the differing toptube slopes that frames have.

There is a good chart below which gives recommendations for the rider’s height:

Rider Height Effective Toptube Estimate (cm)
5’0″ – 5’3″ 49 – 51 (XS)
5’3″ – 5’6″ 52 – 53 (S)
5’6″ – 5’9″ 54 – 55 (M)
5’9″ – 6’0″ 56 – 58 (L)
6’0″ – 6’3″ 58 – 60 (XL)
6’3″ – 6’6″ 60 – 63 (XXL)
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Rider Height Effective Toptube Estimate (cm)
5’0″ – 5’3″ 49 – 51 (XS) Extra Stumpy
5’3″ – 5’6″ 52 – 53 (S). Stumpy
5’6″ – 5’9″ 54 – 55 (M) Mediocre
5’9″ – 6’0″ 56 – 58 (L) Lanky
6’0″ – 6’3″ 58 – 60 (XL) Extra Lanky
6’3″ – 6’6″ 60 – 63 (XXL) Tommy


:tongue::laugh:
 
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<Tommy>

<Tommy>

Illegitimi non carborundum
Location
Camden, London
It is a weird one... I suppose I’m leaning more towards the the number guide ie 54,56,58 etc being a nod towards traditional frames. Eg 58 sloping is the equivalent to 58 traditional. But yeah... clear as mud really... and may well vary from one brand to another.

@rob01792 from your perspective it’s a little different. For me when I get a new frame I’ve been happy with the fit of my old frame. Doing can just transfer over my settings. This time the stack was pretty much the same but the reach was shorter. This suited me as I could put a longer stem on it.

But because you think your current frame is a little too small it’s trickier.
2E54D3A1-F55A-418E-9A4F-62DC4C2356BB.png


Going by the chart it looks like 56 is best suited to you unless you want to add 20mm of spacers for the benefit of an extra 10mm of stem length. Having said that you have to lose 20mm off your stem / bars to fit on a 56 with your current setup. How long is your stem at the moment?
 

rob01792

Über Member
Location
swansea
@TurboTommy current stem is 100 mm so the 56 tarmac is 18 mm longer similar stack height
and I feel sometimes on my current set up that I have to much weight on my hands and as if I need a longer stem or to put saddle back a bit never done it tho as county cycles done my bike fit last year
 
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<Tommy>

<Tommy>

Illegitimi non carborundum
Location
Camden, London
@TurboTommy current stem is 100 mm so the 56 tarmac is 18 mm longer similar stack height
and I feel sometimes on my current set up that I have to much weight on my hands and as if I need a longer stem or to put saddle back a bit never done it tho as county cycles done my bike fit last year

If you’re getting sore hands it might be that your not bending your arms at the elbow enough. Or your bars are too low. If you push the stem forward without addressing your overall position it might move the stress up to your shoulders instead. I’m really weary of giving too much bike fit advice mate. ecspecially without seeing you on the bike. 100% don’t move your saddle back though Rob. Your saddle position is dictated by your position over the pedals. Moving it could cause other issues.

Honestly if I was having a punt at it I’d say this: get the 56. Stick a cheap 100 stem on it and leave at least 25/30mm of spacers under the stem. See how you like it. You can get rid of the spacer tower slowly as you feel comfortable on it. You can buy a fancy stem when you’re 100% with it. Having a longer stem will stretch you out more than your used to. So that’s going to be different.
 

rob01792

Über Member
Location
swansea
at the moment it only this 1 available which I do like but not sure if ill get bored of the colour
specialized-s-works-tarmac-disc-2018-road-bike-frameset-light-blue-EV337136-5100-1.jpg
 

rob01792

Über Member
Location
swansea
been looking at groupset was thinking etap them I'm sure there a new 1 due out and ive just read that its only 250 gram different between the DA and ultergra di2 disc groupsets
 

rob01792

Über Member
Location
swansea
bob u will get a 32 cassette to work with a ss ive run it like that since last year DD
was speaking to a guy that changed to absolute black oval last year he has knee problem too and said its help him but ive read mixed reviews on them
 
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<Tommy>

<Tommy>

Illegitimi non carborundum
Location
Camden, London
been looking at groupset was thinking etap them I'm sure there a new 1 due out and ive just read that its only 250 gram different between the DA and ultergra di2 disc groupsets

I like that colour too. That colour with everything else black and no logos,deep rims, would look super clean. I’ve seen a few different colours but you never know what’s going to be available. Specialized uk seem to pick out the most conservative ones... I saw the choices Thailand have and they had loads more than we get.

Regarding etap I don’t know to be honest. Historically shimano release new stuff loads more than sram but I know what you mean. You could always get a mix of uktrgra and dura ace. You won’t notice the weight difference I dont think but you might just prefer the look of one over the other. I like the duranace chain set a little more but that’s just me. You’d think it wouldn’t be a problem getting it under 7kg.

Nice choices to have! :hungry:
 

bobinski

Legendary Member
Location
Tulse Hill
bob u will get a 32 cassette to work with a ss ive run it like that since last year DD
was speaking to a guy that changed to absolute black oval last year he has knee problem too and said its help him but ive read mixed reviews on them

Just as many people say 32 will be fine as those that say it won’t. And yep, Oval is in part a purchase with knee in mind. They do look frigging great regardless of shape.
 
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