Trying to choose a lock

[Davidc]

^^

Sadly experience says the only thing to do at that stage is report it to the police, get their reference, and next phone the insurance company. If you've used the right sort of lock and followed their rules a new bike is provided in about 4 weeks (or at least that's what's happened to me).

The prospects for getting it back aren't good.

 

[e-rider]

Care to elaborate? Do you speak from relevant experience or are you just so much cleverer than Sheldon was?

the method relies on the fact that according to sheldon "theives wont bother to cut the rim" - well, they often go to much greater lengths to get quality bikes so why wouldn't they simply crop the rear rim?

 

[Wobblers]

the method relies on the fact that according to sheldon "theives wont bother to cut the rim" - well, they often go to much greater lengths to get quality bikes so why wouldn't they simply crop the rear rim?

This is the problem with Sheldon, unfortunately. If the frame's good enough, they'll have it even if they have to wreck the rear wheel - it's not too difficult to steal another rear wheel from another bike, sadly.

 

[buggi]

I think mine's a Magnum D Lock. I got it from halfords and it comes with a thick cable wire so you can lock your wheels to it as well.

Most importantly, it's top end rated, so covered by your insurance and also it offers an insurance on it (so if you bike is worth £1k they will cover it, you just have to register your bike on line or something.

As said, if the theives want your bike, they'll take it, so the important thing is to get it insured and make sure the class of lock matches what your insurance states you should have (they have a list of acceptable locks)... or buy the magnum and use their insurance

 

[frank9755]

the method relies on the fact that according to sheldon "theives wont bother to cut the rim" - well, they often go to much greater lengths to get quality bikes so why wouldn't they simply crop the rear rim?

Although you quoted it, it appears you didn't actually read my post - you are talking about a minor detail not the main point!

 

[e-rider]

Although you quoted it, it appears you didn't actually read my post - you are talking about a minor detail not the main point!

if you are refering to the point you made that it's better to have 2 cheap locks rather than one decent lock - a cheap cable can be broken in about 2 seconds whereas a cheap D-lock perhaps 10 seconds = total of 12 seconds (all with basic tools).

A decent D-lock used properly should hold out for at least 4-5 minutes and depending on the tools used could be completely unbreakable.

 

[Rob3rt]

if you are refering to the point you made that it's better to have 2 cheap locks rather than one decent lock - a cheap cable can be broken in about 2 seconds whereas a cheap D-lock perhaps 10 seconds = total of 12 seconds (all with basic tools).

A decent D-lock used properly should hold out for at least 4-5 minutes and depending on the tools used could be completely unbreakable.

I think the point of 2 locks might be more towards it being a deterant than actually securing the bike? The theif, especially if oppertunist may be put of trying to get through 2 locks when they can get a bike which only sports one lock. Whether the total time taken to cut it is the same or greater.

If its organised theft or an educated theif its a different ball game altogether really. In such a case, insurance is the only way forward!

 

[frank9755]

if you are refering to the point you made that it's better to have 2 cheap locks rather than one

Yes, that was what you referred to in your own post!

The point being that you need bolt cutters to break a cable lock and a bottle jack for a D-lock so a thief only carrying one of the tools would not find a bike with both types of locks an attractive prospect.

 

[MacB]

Yes, that was what you referred to in your own post!

The point being that you need bolt cutters to break a cable lock and a bottle jack for a D-lock so a thief only carrying one of the tools would not find a bike with both types of locks an attractive prospect.

I'm no longer convinced by this Frank, for me the deterrent would be the D-Lock, anyone carrying a bottle jack is also likely to carry some bolt cutters as well. I genuinely feel that a cable lock is a total waste of space, many of them don't even need cable cutters to break open.

Personally I'd go d-lock rear wheel to frame and stand and d-lock front wheel to frame(one of the chunky mini d locks here, but choose what fits your frame), as a minimum. Aiming for max shackle thickness, minimum space for bottle jack and choosing location to lock up carefully. The only consideration I'd give to a cable lock would be in conjunction with an alarm of some sort.

 

[youngoldbloke]

Cable locking the front wheel to the frame, and using an alarm padlock as the lock, with the lock around a stay as well as the cable. The main aim is to deter casual theft and also set off the alarm lock, so 10mm Halfords or Masterlock cable is good enough, and the alarm lock is well made.

A separate alarm bolted to the bike's seat post.

MacB ^ The only consideration I'd give to a cable lock would be in conjunction with an alarm of some sort.

What do you recommend?

 

[MacB]

MacB ^ The only consideration I'd give to a cable lock would be in conjunction with an alarm of some sort.

What do you recommend?

not used one but have read reviews from David, and from others on LFGSS and CTC forums. To be honest you can fit them in a variety of ways, from joining a cable lock to fitting to frame or a maving part(chainrings seem quite popular). Like David I'd worry about the annoyance factor, we all know how irritating a car alarm constantly going off can be.

I've given them thought as an extra if I need to lock publically in a higher risk spot. At present I don't have that situation, I only lock up at the supermarket and that's with my shopping bike, still use the two d-locks though.

 

[vorsprung]

I have a small collection of U locks, all of them Kryptonite. Two are from the "New York" series and have 16mm or 18mm shackles. The other one is a Evolution mini.

I live in not-particularly-high-crime Taunton and ride bikes with drops. So I tend to carry round the Evo mini and use that when I'm in a shop etc. I also use it when the bike is at work, it is stored outside but in private space at the side of the building. I always have this lock with me. It's easier to carry than the heavier ones

I have a lightweight alarm cable I use when I'm out on the good bike. I figure it's better than nothing.

If I was visiting London/Bristol/Birmingham and thought I might have to leave my bike unattended then I'd take the two heavy Kryptonite locks with me. Also I'd put tape over the "Cotic" logo on the frame and not wash the bike

 

[e-rider]

Yes, that was what you referred to in your own post!

The point being that you need bolt cutters to break a cable lock and a bottle jack for a D-lock so a thief only carrying one of the tools would not find a bike with both types of locks an attractive prospect.

you certainly don't need a stubby bottle jack to break a cheap D-lock!

 

[slowmotion]

If you use an insurance company that specifies a Gold rated SoldSecure lock, this one is about the cheapest around...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=14WFEN1AM9AA7VMXPD0X