Torque Wrench question.

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Harril

Well-Known Member
Location
East Sussex
Do I need to use a dual directional torque wrench for a Shimano BB-UN300? I've had to change a couple recently and it seems I am having to guess the amount of torque for the drive side.
 

Bristolian

Senior Member
Location
Bristol, UK
Hmm, I've been using torque wrenches for the past 50+ years and was under the impression that, except for some very specific models used in factory assembly lines, (e.g. engine, machine tool, aircraft undercarriage, etc.) they were all bi-directional. Am I wrong?
 
OP
OP
Harril

Harril

Well-Known Member
Location
East Sussex
Hmm, I've been using torque wrenches for the past 50+ years and was under the impression that, except for some very specific models used in factory assembly lines, (e.g. engine, machine tool, aircraft undercarriage, etc.) they were all bi-directional. Am I wrong?

Apparently not. The cheaper ones are clockwise only, the more expensive ones, of course, are dual/bi directional.
 
OP
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Harril

Harril

Well-Known Member
Location
East Sussex
I wouldn't worry about torque on those BBs too much, good and tight will do, the threads should prevent the cups from loosening over time.

The problem is I don't have enough experience to know when its at the correct amount without the a TW. With such precise numbers stated I'd rather not leave it to guess work.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Use the torque wrench you have on the left side, and make a conscious effort to 'feel' what that feels like before the click.
Replicate that on the right side.
But frankly with a UN-300 as @si_c says: "good and tight".
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
I've got a couple of thirty-odd quid Sealey wrenches. If you do up a nut to a given torque, it doesn't come free at the same torque.
 

scotsbikester

Well-Known Member
Hmm, I've been using torque wrenches for the past 50+ years and was under the impression that, except for some very specific models used in factory assembly lines, (e.g. engine, machine tool, aircraft undercarriage, etc.) they were all bi-directional. Am I wrong?

If you are talking about ratchet "clicker" torque wrenches, then I think the opposite is actually the case.

I've got 4 torque wrenches, for the appropriate ranges. 3 ratchet "clicker" type, one beam wrench. The ratchet ones will all undo a nut/bolt, but the torque measuring mechanism doesn't work in that direction (anti clockwise). The two higher range ones are Teng, which I think is a fairly well respected manufacturer. I actually rang the to ask if they worked both ways. The chap went off to ask the technical people. They said they did. But either they are wrong, or they misunderstood my question.

It's very easy to test. Find a bolt that is already done up to a very tight torque. Reverse the ratchet (to undo) and set the torque to a very low setting. See if it clicks. It almost certainly won't. Even better find a LH threading fastener, which on a bike is probably BB drive side (RH) or the left hand pedal. See if the torque clicky thing "fires" on a low setting.

I bought a beam torque wrench specifically for those two LH threading components. I'm a bit OCD like that. Of course doing the normal threading side first, then using that as a guide to the correct torque, by "feel", might be more or less as good. Though BBs don't always need the same torque both sides, I'm told.

I think the Park Tools torque wrench is genuinely bi-directional, in terms of the torque "click". And although it's expensive, I wish I'd bought it, as I've ended up spending the same, probably more, to get the same range and bi-directionality.

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/pro...pe-torque-wrench-tw-6-2?category=Torque+Tools
 

presta

Guru
If you are talking about ratchet "clicker" torque wrenches, then I think the opposite is actually the case.

I've got 4 torque wrenches, for the appropriate ranges. 3 ratchet "clicker" type, one beam wrench. The ratchet ones will all undo a nut/bolt, but the torque measuring mechanism doesn't work in that direction (anti clockwise). The two higher range ones are Teng, which I think is a fairly well respected manufacturer. I actually rang the to ask if they worked both ways. The chap went off to ask the technical people. They said they did. But either they are wrong, or they misunderstood my question.

It's very easy to test. Find a bolt that is already done up to a very tight torque. Reverse the ratchet (to undo) and set the torque to a very low setting. See if it clicks. It almost certainly won't. Even better find a LH threading fastener, which on a bike is probably BB drive side (RH) or the left hand pedal. See if the torque clicky thing "fires" on a low setting.

I bought a beam torque wrench specifically for those two LH threading components. I'm a bit OCD like that. Of course doing the normal threading side first, then using that as a guide to the correct torque, by "feel", might be more or less as good. Though BBs don't always need the same torque both sides, I'm told.

I think the Park Tools torque wrench is genuinely bi-directional, in terms of the torque "click". And although it's expensive, I wish I'd bought it, as I've ended up spending the same, probably more, to get the same range and bi-directionality.

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/pro...pe-torque-wrench-tw-6-2?category=Torque+Tools

My Norbar torque wrench does both left and right hand threads by sliding the square drive peg through to the other side of the head, not by the ratchet or clicker mechanism reversing.

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