Threaded Head Set

[Yellow Saddle]

To start with I would clean and retap, then just use some loctite

Stripped threads can't be rethreaded. If the material is missing, it is missing.

 

[presta]

If you don't want new forks you might be able to find a frame builder who can fit a new steerer tube, but by the time that's done you'll need the forks repainting anyway.

The bike's not going to collapse from under you if you ride it with the headset loose, but the front brake usually grabs and judders if the headset's loose.

 

[richardfm]

As someone who set off on his bike with the quillstem not tightened I'd advise against anything that might deprive you of the ability to steer.

Spoiler: I survived, but it was the worst moment I've had on a bike.

I had this happen to me recently. I volunteer at a local not for profit place servicing donated cycles.
I came in one day to a bike that had been worked on the previous day by another volunteer. I just had to fit new brake cables and take it for a test ride.
All seemed normal as I wheeled it across the workshop. I got on the bike outside, pushed off and went to make a right turn. It was at that point I found out the quill stem was loose and ended up on the ground.
Now, if I have to finish a bike that someone else has started I check everything.

 

[raleighnut]

I think it is a rolled thread not cut with a die so you're not removing metal simply moving it, you should be able to tell where the threads end, if below the level of the tube it is cut but if slightly raised it's a rolled thread

 

[Ajax Bay]

the quill stem was loose and ended up on the ground.

Tbf (and for @All uphill 's experience) this is a loose quill stem, not a loose headset.
A loose headset is apparent every time you front brake. It's not going to fail catastrophically, is it?
But I can't believe anyone (well CycleChatter Bicycle Mechanics & Repairs standard anyway) would enjoy riding the bike and put up with the clunk.
Have any threaded steerer tubes a rolled thread (my answer = 'no')? I suggest, @raleighnut , that if you "think" it is (and share your thoughts), it'd help to research/check that. Sounds like (gratuitous) wishful thinking to me, giving the OP an ephemeral hope.

 

[Gunk]

I had this happen to me recently. I volunteer at a local not for profit place servicing donated cycles.
I came in one day to a bike that had been worked on the previous day by another volunteer. I just had to fit new brake cables and take it for a test ride.
All seemed normal as I wheeled it across the workshop. I got on the bike outside, pushed off and went to make a right turn. It was at that point I found out the quill stem was loose and ended up on the ground.
Now, if I have to finish a bike that someone else has started I check everything.

We go though a full PDI (based on Cytech recommended process) on every bike.

 

[Ian H]

One possibility, if you can find one in good condition, is the old Stronglight headset with a clamp-screw.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/29666546...xsLOABsDn7mbCohbBo5wrUmi5G1UFPV8aAvWSEALw_wcB

 

[mickle]

Repair option 1:
If there's enough good thread available install a headset with a lower stack height and remove a corresponding length from the top of the damaged section of steerer. Shi**no standard (non cartridge) headsets are low stack. Which may be combined with..

Repair option 2:
Even more undamaged thread may be reachable by facing the top and bottom of the head tube. You might only find 4,5 or 6mm overall but that might be enough.

Repair option 3:
Have a frame builder run some brass around the damaged thread and recut the thread into the fresh brass. Ive seen it done but its not a great option as a brass thread isnt as tough as a steel thread.

Repair option 4:
Have a frame builder install a new steerer. Factor in a fresh paint job on the fork.

Repair option 5:
Install a new or second hand replacement fork.

That's it. That's all your options.

 

[richardfm]

We go though a full PDI (based on Cytech recommended process) on every bike.

Our bikes go through a PDI before they are sold.

 

[Marchrider]

Repair option 1:
If there's enough good thread available install a headset with a lower stack height and remove a corresponding length from the top of the damaged section of steerer. Shi**no standard (non cartridge) headsets are low stack. Which may be combined with..

Repair option 2:
Even more undamaged thread may be reachable by facing the top and bottom of the head tube. You might only find 4,5 or 6mm overall but that might be enough.

Repair option 3:
Have a frame builder run some brass around the damaged thread and recut the thread into the fresh brass. Ive seen it done but its not a great option as a brass thread isnt as tough as a steel thread.

Repair option 4:
Have a frame builder install a new steerer. Factor in a fresh paint job on the fork.

Repair option 5:
Install a new or second hand replacement fork.

That's it. That's all your options.

yes, if I could get a second hand one, I would then have time to repair the original properly.

The problem I have is I only have the one bike and xmas week will be the only time I'm not out (family coming to stay nightmare). And I like to get a good start in the new year.

I don't know of any frame builders and I doubt they would do the job that week

How is the 'Steerer Tube' attached to the forks ?
If I could get that off I could add material by welding then run a die over it.

 

[Marchrider]

Tbf (and for @All uphill 's experience) this is a loose quill stem, not a loose headset.
A loose headset is apparent every time you front brake. It's not going to fail catastrophically, is it?
But I can't believe anyone (well CycleChatter Bicycle Mechanics & Repairs standard anyway) would enjoy riding the bike and put up with the clunk.
Have any threaded steerer tubes a rolled thread (my answer = 'no')? I suggest, @raleighnut , that if you "think" it is (and share your thoughts), it'd help to research/check that. Sounds like (gratuitous) wishful thinking to me, giving the OP an ephemeral hope.

I think its safe to ride, it feels fine on the road, even braking it feels OK. But it is loose and very notifiable it is walking with the bike when it noticeably rattles away, and although it is an old bike and looks a bit battered, it is generally in good mechanical condition.

 

[raleighnut]

Tbf (and for @All uphill 's experience) this is a loose quill stem, not a loose headset.
A loose headset is apparent every time you front brake. It's not going to fail catastrophically, is it?
But I can't believe anyone (well CycleChatter Bicycle Mechanics & Repairs standard anyway) would enjoy riding the bike and put up with the clunk.
Have any threaded steerer tubes a rolled thread (my answer = 'no')? I suggest, @raleighnut , that if you "think" it is (and share your thoughts), it'd help to research/check that. Sounds like (gratuitous) wishful thinking to me, giving the OP an ephemeral hope.

Cutting a thread with a die leads to a 'stress raiser' at the end of the thread weakening the component but with a rolled thread this doesn't happen which is why spokes have a rolled thread on them.
I seem to remember after breaking a fork on my bike I aquired a new fork but the steerer was too long so went to Sid Mottrams to ask about getting the threads extended and him telling me it was a rolled thread but this was nearly 50 years ago, ended up buying a new fork which made a big hole in my fag budget but luckily I didn't drink then (that started in 76)

My advice to the OP would be take the fork to a bike shop (not a retailer) or buy a new fork.

 

[Ajax Bay]

if I could get a second hand one, I would then have time to repair the original properly.
The problem I have is I only have the one bike

If you are going to repair this (somehow) and you want to have a bike to ride, you'll need a new (to you) fork.
You'll know the wheel diameter (700c or ?), the OLN will surely be 100mm and you can measure the steerer tube length (eg 178mm).
The offset of this style of fork will all be roughly right for the head tube angle so handling should not change.
This is the type of source (besides my local tip) that you might use:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/recycleleicester?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l170197

 

[si_c]

If you want to get your forks repaired then an obvious solution would be to get a spare pair in the short term.

A quick look on ebay results in a few forks available in the UK for around £20 including postage, seems a reasonable approach and could be used either permanently with a respray to look like your current forks or temporarily until you have time to get the services of a framebuilder.

 

[Marchrider]

If you want to get your forks repaired then an obvious solution would be to get a spare pair in the short term.

A quick look on ebay results in a few forks available in the UK for around £20 including postage, seems a reasonable approach and could be used either permanently with a respray to look like your current forks or temporarily until you have time to get the services of a framebuilder.

not sure if I could go that far - i'm not good with money.
bound to be some in a skip somewhere.