The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 95, Monday, December 16, Bastrop State Park to Austin 63km

Last night sitting in the covered area I had an unpleasant encounter with a Ranger. After eating and writing up this blog I was sitting reading my Kindle having made a pot of tea. It was the first night in ages that it wasn't cold so I was enjoying the fresh air as opposed to being wrapped up in the tent.

A vehicle pulled up behind me with full lights on. I looked behind me but could see nothing as the lights were directly pointing at me. I thought nothing much of it as it's also close to the bins. After a few minutes of no movement I began to get a little nervous.

Then a voice called out "what are you doing there?".
Again I turned around and again was blinded. I said I was just after having my dinner.
At that point the voice identified itself as a park ranger and asked me again what I was doing here.

I turned around again, shielding my eyes with my arm and could see the outline of a man, but again I turned around because the lights were cutting the eyes out of me.

I was confused by the question repetiton. Did he mean here in the campground? Did he mean in the US? And I was getting irritated.

I told him I was camping here, that I was travelling by bicycle, that I made my dinner here because it's close to the washup area and the bins.

Then he wanted to see my proof of payment, which of course, I didn't have. I told him I'd put $19 in an envelope but there was no information on it because there were no pens.

Satisfied, he stepped out of the lights and moved around to talk some more. At least now I could see him. Apparently, where I was sitting was "day use" and couldn't be used after 10pm. I told him I'd be in bed long before 10 pm. At that point he became a bit friendlier, but frankly, I didn't much feel like reciprocating.

After he drove off I packed up and went to bed.

This morning, his colleague actually parked up in the first spot I'd be walking past to go to the bathrooms and waited for me. When I walked past I got called back and asked what I was doing. I pointed at my tent, clearly visible, and said I was camping there. Then he wanted to see my proof of payment. I repeated the story and satisfied, he drove off, only to return a few minutes later wanting to know what number site I had used. I had no idea. There were five spots and I had used the one closest to the washrooms. The whole tent section was empty except for me - what did it matter where I camped??

By far my most unpleasant experience in a government campground. They can be very slow and detailed with their paperwork, but at least they're friendly. As far as both of these guys were concerned, I was a badguy until proven otherwise.

Anyway, I was awake at 4:30 am full of excitement for the day ahead! There was no point in getting up as I had some busy roads to negotiate from the get go and I had no intention of doing them in the dark, or in rush hour. On the other hand, pretty bad weather was forecast with rain and strong winds. I was anxious to avoid getting the tent wet as I may not have much chance to dry it out for the next few days

Inside the tent I got changed into my day clothes, packed the panniers and dozed for a little while.

The rain stayed off, I broke down the tent, met the ranger and set off. My plan was to grab breakfast on the way.

The town of Bastrop had a busy approach and busier exit. I stopped for coffee & burritos on the way out. They were served from a dedicated food section in a filling station. The lady was Hispanic, speaking Spanish to her colleague. I really should have at least tried to order in Spanish, but the usual failing of the non-native speaker applied - say nothing for fear of making a mistake. I'll have to get over that pronto!

Looking back towards Bostrop

I was taking the Old Austin Highway, parallel to, I presume, the New Austin Highway. It was a bit hairy for a few km until most of the traffic decamped onto the new road. Then I had a lane to myself, pretty much.

This guy pulled over 3 cars in the relatively short time I was on the big road

When I finally got off that road I stopped for another coffee. Today was going to be a long day - the wind was from the North, cold and strong. On the road again I was crawling along in the wind. There was a narrow shoulder that was perfect for the speed I was going.

For about a km I travelled south and was blown along. It was over way too soon!

Looking ahead I could see the road was turning west which would leave me with more of a cross wind than a headwind. Focused on a bend up ahead and thinking of taking a photo for posterity I learned a lesson about how important it is to stay focused.

The distracting bend

I use my mirror frequently to see what's coming behind me as well as using my ears. Today, the wind meant I rarely heard something behind me until the last moment and distracted by the upcoming bend and the great photo I'd take I never noticed a car zooming up behind me. They barely missed me and gave me such a shock I rode off the shoulder onto the grass. Thankfully, it was reasonably flat.

I wondered if the driver was just a twat, or if there was something malicious about it. Of course, they may not have seen me at all! Lesson learned - stay focused. It doesn't matter about the driver, only that I can react.

From that point on, it became a little easier. After about 35km I stopped for yet another coffee. Gizmo was reading about 9C and it was a cold 9!

This was a big supermarket with deli counter, hot food and the largest fresh food, vegetables and fruit I've seen since I landed here. Everybody working there was Hispanic and I began to wonder if fresh food would be more available in Mexico?

Now I was on back roads rolling through a poor Hispanic area. There were a few dogs out but most ignored me, except one guy who barked loudly and ran beside me, protecting his area until I passed to a neighbour at which point he stopped so suddenly it seemed like an invisible cord pulled him back.

I was getting close to Austin now and traffic was surprisingly light. By the airport I was on a six lane dual carriageway that had little traffic. I had a shoulder most of the way too.

About 16km from my destination a cycle lane appeared so I rode that into town. About the same time, the sun, that had been fighting the clouds finally won and the temperature began creeping up.

Colorado River - my second crossing of it today

Austin is hilly, but the cycle.travel route was great. A few kms from my AirBnB I pulled into an old fashioned burger place for some food, then completed the last leg.

The AirBnB is fine. There's a wonderfully, friendly and playful dog to help with my therapy. I unpacked and lay down on the bed for a nap. The plan is a little snooze to recharge the batteries, then up & shower, some fresh clothes, get some food and go to a gig.

I've given myself three days in Austin. I'm going to try for San Antonio for Saturday for another gig. I think I'll swap my tyres around front and back. I may also get a new chain. Apart from laundry the rest of the time is all about music, margheritas and food!

I've made it to Austin!! Stage Two complete!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Days 96 & 97 Austin, 0 km

Aaaaaah! Austin!

I know very, very little about Austin. I knew I wanted to visit. The things I wanted to do were very simple, but important to me.

In no particular order I wanted to check out Waterloo records, the Texas Chili Parlor, I wanted to see Bob Schneider play with his band in his "local" bar, I wanted to see whatever other artists were available, I wanted to see Lance Armstrong's shop and visit an REI store.

I got to do them all and then some!

I also took a day to plan the next leg of my journey, first to San Antonio, then south and into Mexico

Other than a brief intersection at Del Rio, I'm off the ACA routes from now on. By sheer luck, one of my favourite artists moved a date to Saturday in San Antonio so now I'm going down there, via New Braunfels. The ACA route goes west of Austin instead of South. Campsites are pretty rare for the next while so I'll be motelling or Airbnbing it, with the exception of Christmas where I'll be camping!!

After San Antonio I'll be mainly taking the highway to the border. It's not ideal for me, but at least there's accommodation and provisions. I have a few different options in Gizmo to take back roads if I really can't take the Highway any more.

Once into Mexico, it'll be mainly highways again, a combination of safety, provisions and a severe lack of other options. There's also a desert to negotiate! It's about 1300km to the coast and I'm hoping to make good time. From now on the days are getting longer!

The nature of the trip is changing now, too. Up until now I have been traveling to places I wanted to visit - Charleston, Nashville, Austin. The "Devil's Backbone" road from Durango towards the coast is the last but one place I really want to see. I do have an ultimate destination in mind but I don't feel particularly enslaved by it - if something better comes along I'd like to think I can pursue that instead.

The U.S. govt has just issued a new travel warning for Mexico too. By all accounts the Australian government travel advice is the best so I'm using that as my main influence.

Back to Austin…..
Monday night was Bob night. Small, cosy and with a band of witty musicians. Not a single song they played did I know! Bob plays a variety of genres in a variety of different bands. It was still great, though and the banter between the band mates was great.

Tuesday was walking day. I enjoy walking around a place, although most American cities aren't exactly well set up for it.
I walked to Waterloo records on a CD pilgrimage. For more than 10 years I've been ordering a limited edition cd from this store that is issued by a local radio station. It's a collection of mainly local artists that allow live versions of their songs be used to raise money for local charities. It's a fantastic way of getting introduced to artists I'd never hear of on my usual side of the Atlantic.
This year I got to buy the latest copy in person! Of course, I've nowhere to play it!!

REI was great too - right beside Waterloo. The staff are very helpful and knowledgeable. I was on the lookout for a decent pair of trousers. My cheapy Decathlon ones are being worn out. It took me a while to find a pair that fit. As it turns out my waist is down to a size I haven't had since my twenties!

I also picked up a new pump. My old one still works, but is erratic and I'm about to head into some more remote areas. I also picked up a simple thermometer for tracking the night temperatures. Normally I'd have used the bike computer but that died back in North Carolina.

I was hoping to see a big display of tents but it seems December is not the month for buying tents!

I also swung by Lance's shop. Not because I'm a fan, I'm anything but. It's a trendy place to hang out, drink coffee and look cool. Needless to say I didn't quite fit in. I did buy a chain though. They don't have a lot of stuff for anything but top end bikes.

Then it was off to see Ray Wyllie Hubbard play live at the "Christmas Armadillo Extravaganza". This time I knew most of the songs, but again, the stories he told between the songs was where the value and reward was.

Wednesday was planning day with a trip to the Texas Chili Parlor for dinner. It's mentioned in a Guy Clark song and I've wanted to go for a long time. It's old, cosy, friendly, simple, and a little piece of heaven. I sat at the bar and was immediately included in the conversation by the guy on my left. The chili was like nothing I've ever had before. The beef literally melted in my mouth. It was so good I had a second bowl - the joys of cycle touring! And the margheritas were perfection in a glass.

Austin is a fast growing city. There's construction everywhere. It's reckoned more than 50,000 people are moving to Austin every year - that's 1000 per week! Like Nashville, there are a lot of homeless people. Back in North Carolina I'd seen on the news how the Governor sent the State Police in to clear out homeless people from under the overpasses. I was amused to see a sign on a large Catholic church - No Trespassing and was reminded of the fact that in Nashville a lot of Catholic Hispanics are not welcome in local Catholic churches unless they can prove their residency status.

It is also a genuinely friendly town. Conversations are easy to have and not just with the panhandlers who try a conversation as an opening gambit to asking for money.

Architecturally, it combines the old and the new. As the State Capital of Texas it is home to the Capitol building - designed & built, so I'm told, to be larger than the one in Washington!
I did go to go in for a wander but declined when I saw the intensive security measures - I had a tin of fuel for my stove in the backpack! God knows what the security detail would have made of that!

My first AirBnB was a positive experience. Best of all, they had a lovely big dog! Great therapy! I also used Lyft (like Uber) to get around. Handy & cheap.

When I was checking out upcoming events it was amazing just how many artists were performing in Austin. I was spoilt for choice! Also a little sad to be leaving again so soon.

I'd definitely come back to Austin again. Perhaps the rapid growth will change the city, but there is a real "small town" vibe to the place. I found it very friendly and very easy to get around. The whole time I found myself just looking at something and saying to myself "I'm in Austin! I cycled to Austin!!".
That's a pretty good feeling!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 98, Thursday, Dec 19, Austin to New Braunfels 86km

Leaving Austin was a drag. Not because of any cycling issues, simply because it was a place I could have stayed much longer in. I did try to extend my stay in the AirBnB but they had another guest arriving.

I was slow to get going, having to take bike and everything outside to load up. Each trip took me past the dog, necessitating a minute or two of playtime!

When I did get on the road it was later than I had planned, but the sun was shining and it was a glorious day.

I was basically following my route in on the way out. Hilly, yes, but pleasant riding nonetheless. As I got further out of the city I diverged onto a new route.

On the edge of the city proper I stopped for a coffee. I didn't really want one, but it looked like there'd be few options for a while. That wasn't my smartest move.

Heading off again on a relatively quiet road I had reason to regret that last coffee. On the first hill my heart really started pumping and I felt totally drained after only a little climbing. All of a sudden it was looking like a long day.

And it was! I was really feeling poorly. I totted up my coffee intake and realised I'd had four big, big cups in the space of about 4 hours. There was a time that would barely wake me up, but these days it's just too much stimulation!

The roads were interesting, and in the main, quiet. I was going cross country on farm roads - not the most direct, but lovely to cycle along.

I came to another cemetery and wandered around. Again, a lot of people living to a ripe old age balanced by so many infant graves. Some of the sites were so old that trees grew from them. What I also found interesting was that some graves dating back to the last century had new headstones. It appears the current generation pay respect to their ancestors.

After San Marcos there was a definite change in the travelling circumstances. I was effectively running parallel to a major interstate on a busy two lane with a shoulder of varying quality and width. It seemed to be rush hour and darkness was beginning to fall.

To be fair, immediately past San Marcos the road was fabulous and I was looking forward to the last 25km watching the sky above me - the clouds were amazing again! But my mood changed as quickly as the road surface. I'm not a fan of riding at night on a loaded bike, but I had no real alternatives. I was lit up like a Christmas tree but travelling slowly having to keep a very careful eye on the road in front of me and the cars behind me. Some of the shoulder, when it existed, was very poor, lots of holes and debris.

The only advantage of travelling in the dark was that I got to see people's Christmas decorations in their full glory! There are lots of outdoor decorations that I can see during the day, but at night they can be very pretty, sometimes spectacular.

Eventually I came to my turnoff near Gruene and negotiated the tricky junction with the help of pedestrian lights. The cycling infrastructure was there - a nice, wide, well marked lane - unfortunately it was full of sand, gravel and occasional rocks. Progress was slow while traffic was very heavy.

I finally arrived at my hotel, exhausted and drained. I unloaded the bike, loading up a trolley, locked the bike in a safe space behind reception and trundled up to my room.

I resisted the urge to lie down on my bed, instead jumping into the shower. Fresh & clean the world was a much better place!

I ordered a Lyft and got out to Gruene Hall, bought a ticket then went for some food.

Gruene is a very quaint town, especially at this time of the year. Lots of old buildings, a real taste of olden times. Gruene Hall, the oldest dance hall in Texas, hasn't changed much either! A rectangular building, entirely of wood, with panels on both sides that can be removed in summer, old sacks filled with corn positioned in the rafters for acoustics, a dance area in front of the stage, long benches further back then a bar behind that again. No draught beer here! No sound insulation either!!

I'm not sure of the ownership, but I was surprised to see Sheriff's Deputies as security - armed of course!

The main act wasn't my cup of tea. All his songs featured drinking beer (big cheers from the crowd), Texas (more big cheers) and beer again!

This was the first place I felt a little out of place. For starters I was alone while just about everybody were in groups, I was not wearing boots and my Bob Schneider T-shirt was out of place amongst the denim and check variety.

Really glad I got to visit and soak up a little of the history but I was also glad I could summon another Lyft, get back to the hotel and sleep!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 99 Friday, Dec 20, New Braunfels to San Antonio 74km

Thanks to big, heavy curtains I didn't wake until 8:30 which is very late by my standards these days.

I wandered down for a good breakfast and saw the rain. Lots of it! The forecast was for rain all day, cold too, but San Antonio should be dry and warmer.

Over breakfast I mulled over my options. I couldn't check in to my AirBnB until after 5pm, so there was no big rush. I considered bringing my stuff to the lobby, catching up on this travelogue, then setting off later when, hopefully it was warmer and dryer.

In the end, that's what I decided to do, but packing up the bike first. I'm glad I did - when I went to get the bike the front wheel was flat as a pancake! Not soft, totally empty of air!

Outside, I found the culprit. A tear of about 1 cm on the sidewall and a corresponding tear in the tube.

I repaired the tube, used some old inner to boot the tyre then swapped the tyres from front to back. I'd meant to do it in Austin but didn't have the time. I also got to try my new pump! It seems to work well!

Finally, I was ready for the road. It was cold and wet and the first few kms were not pleasant, but then the road quietened and it became more pleasant. The parts of New Braunfels I skirted past looked very, very pleasant. I've been listening to the local radio station there for years over the internet. The ads are all for small, local businesses, the traffic reports are always the same and the music is great so it was very nice to cycle through here. I had considered detouring through Gruene as it looked so pretty the night before, but given the weather, I was pressing on.

I haven't mentioned it before, but it seems that this is the time of year for serious roadworks in Texas. On the way into Austin, yesterday and now today I met road closed signs and had to detour.

Today, I was definitely feeling better despite the rain and cold. I was quickly onto sparsely travelled country roads, tacking left and right but going through nice country. It was hilly, though!

I stopped once at a supermarket / filling station when I was a bit cold. Learning my lesson from yesterday I had, for the first time in my life, knowingly taken a cup of decaf coffee! Travelling in far off places on a bike can really give us the strength to push our boundaries!!

As I was standing outside drinking my coffee (the lady yelling at me many weeks ago for wetting her floor still sits prominently in my mind) I had a wonderful experience. A young fella, no more than 8 or 9 years old, on leaving the shop with his mother, came over to me and held out his hand towards me. There was money in his hand.
"What's this for", I asked confused by the situation.
"It's some money", he said, "for you".
Suddenly I realised what was happening. Loaded bike, me in my mismatched rain gear - he was thinking I was homeless.
I looked to his mother for some guidance and she smiled at me indicating I should take it.

"Oh no!", I said, laughing. "I'm on my holidays! I don't look my best because it's so wet and windy. But thank you very much!".

His mother was smiling widely now, but the poor little fella was totally confused. By what, I'm not so sure, most likely the idea that cycling a bike in constant rain could be fun!

They left, but the warm glow generated by that totally random act of generosity and kindness kept me warm for a long time.

The approach into San Antonio wasn't too bad. Cycle.travel kept me mainly in the suburbs, cycling through the wealthy part of Austin, with occasional darts along the busier roads.

The rain never let up though and it got colder as the sun dropped. Getting close to my AirBnB I changed my plans and decided on a quiet night in. I stopped for some food to fill my tank then found the AirBnB, unloaded the bike then had a hot, hot shower.

I was surprisingly tired and fell fast asleep watching the TV.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 100 Austin 0km

100 days on the road and I get to see Joe Ely & Joel Guzman in a cosy little venue.

There are no words!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 101 Sunday Dec 22, San Antonio to Hondo 73km

Damn but I'm tired these days! The shift to staying up late is having a real effect! And Netflix have added Frasier (& Cheers!) to their stable. Such classic tv!

I was awake at about 8:30 and slowly got moving. The day was bright & sunny, but it's always cold in the morning.

I hit the road and enjoyed quiet roads through suburbia for most of my exit from San Antonio. I stopped for breakfast at a BBQ joint and enjoyed very tasty sausage, egg, beans, potatoes and tortillas plus coffee.

Outside, a chap approached me about the bike and my trip. He was really interested and soon two of his friends got out of their car and joined in the conversation. They were captivated and I'm no shrinking violet when it comes to spinning yarns.

Turns out they were Jehovah's Witnesses! Although, I think in fairness, I was the one evangelising about the simplicity and joys of bike touring. They offered me a booklet which I accepted out of respect. They weren't pushy in the least and didn't ask to many of their probing questions as they tend to do on the doorstep.

As I was cycling along, another tourer came up behind me. Andrew is cycling from Florida to the West Coast. He wants to cycle in Europe with a friend next year and this is a shakedown ride! Across America as a shakedown ride?? That's one hell of a shakedown!
We cycled together for a while but he was staying outside San Antonio for another day so we parted ways at a major junction.

Then it was on to a 4 lane highway that thankfully had a footpath that I made efficient use of. A bit slower, for sure, especially at junctions, but infinitely safer. It's the last Sunday before Christmas and traffic is heavy!

There was a constant climb, descend, climb again rhythm but with the sun shining, a blue sky and relative safety I was happy as Larry.

Eventually, I turned off onto a link road to bring me to Highway 90. Three miles long, a bit rough but lightly trafficked. Then I was onto 90 and heading west! A decent wide shoulder on a dual carriageway. Headphones in and I rolled pleasantly along. The wind isn't the most co-operative, but it's a beautiful day for cycling. A rumble strip keeps appearing & disappearing so I monitor my mirror all the time. It's not unusual for traffic to use the shoulder as a lane and I don't want any surprises!

After Castroville there was a picnic layby so I pulled in for a rest. It was very pleasant to just sit and watch the world hurry by. I'm in no big rush, planning to stop in the next town, Hondo.

Back on the bike I was doing my best to both ignore and pay a lot of attention to the upcoming traffic. The music sure helped! I was listening to Joe who I saw last night.

At one stage last night he played a new song, Borderless love I think it was called. The chorus included the line "There's no need for a wall" which received a loud cheer, standing ovation then lots of applause. There was no doubt where the audience stood on that score. The cheering continued at every chorus. I was surprised at the reaction given the age profile of the crowd - older.

As an aside, the two guys I was sitting beside were Dutch! Before the gig started they were chatting away probably thinking that no-one else in the room could understand them! 'Tis a small, small world!

This is hill country, rolling hill country. Constant ups and downs. The country is very open, lots of scrubland and old trees. Of course, that means the wind likes to play with me.

This far south there's a great stretch in the evenings. Sunset this evening was at 5:40 pm, compared to Tennessee where it was dark at 4:30!

While Highway riding wouldn't be my preference, today was pretty enjoyable. Blue skies and sun certainly help - especially a couple of days before Christmas!

I rolled in relatively early to my motel, the cheapest in town. The receptionist had issues finding my reservation made this morning. At first I thought that maybe I had arrived at the wrong motel, but as it turned out, dumbass made the reservation for this motel alright, but for next Sunday!
She changed my reservation and all was good!

A shower, a bit of laundry and I was ready for dinner. There's a BBQ restaurant next door that will do nicely! I detoured via Walmart to top up my food supply for Christmas.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 102 Monday Dec 23, Hondo to Uvalde 69km

Well, I made a cockup in dates twice, yesterday! The first was the motel reservation a week out, the second thinking it was December 23, meaning today was Christmas Eve! Duh!

So instead of a massive day to get to a campground, I have a much easier day to Uvalde!

The motel doesn't do breakfast so I grabbed a coffee at a filling station next door. I've discovered bear claws! They're puff pastry, sausage roll shaped and filled with a delicious custard type filling, flavoured with almonds. Delicious!

One great thing about highway riding is that navigation is just so easy! Even I can't get lost!! Get on the highway, tuck into the shoulder and pedal!

It was just after 11 am leaving the motel. I'm in no rush and the mornings are cold. The way I see it, there'll be enough hardship down the road - no need to be killing myself now.

No camera, certainly not my cheapy Chinese android phone, can do justice to some of the vistas here. They say Montana is Big Sky Country, well, based on what I'm seeing in Texas, they must be some big skies up there!!

This is now mainly agricultural land, with occasional scrubland. Still lots of trees, though. Sometimes a single, stand-alone one, sometimes clumps of trees, huddled together that once offered shade and shelter to farmers, animals and travellers.

It might seem silly to some, but having read stories of this area, really increases the enjoyment of my travels! Just the other day cycling from Austin to San Antonio I had been reading the night before of Augustus McCrae & Call Woodward, greenhorn Texas Rangers, setting off to travel in the reverse direction. OK, they had to deal with Comanches on the warpath which thankfully I don't, but the conditions were very similar. I suppose some could see the landscape as boring and repetitive - not me!! It just adds colour to what I'm reading.

A few years ago I cycled to Spain to do the Camino de Santiago Compostela. When I got to the French / Spanish border I started reading different Camino books (Tim Moore's one is excellent). Again, it really brought so much to life. I'd often linger in the morning letting the walking pilgrims spread out, enjoy a cafe con leche and read my book. In the afternoon I'd find a shady spot and do the same. It really enhanced my trip.

Ditto for the Rhine. I got a couple of books, one about the castles and one about myths and legends of the Rhine. Fantastic material for bringing places to life!

But the best experience, without a doubt, is reading Grimm's Fairy Tales (the non-sanitised version) while touring in Germany and wandering through forests! Simply fantastic! That's also when I learned the value of a kindle - that one hardback book took up almost half a pannier!

Anyways, back to Texas. The department of Transport have very kindly put a lovely rest area in the middle of the highway where I've stopped to rest a little. There's bathrooms, water & soda machines. There's even country music in the bathrooms! Texas really isn't such a bad place at all!
The bathrooms in the rest area. Never in my life have I ever felt the need to take a photo in a bathroom!

Well, just after that rest stop the dual carriageway or divided highway as they call them here became a simple four laner, then I entered Uvalde county and my shoulder effectively disappeared while the speed limit increased to 75mph. I really cannot figure out the speed limits.

Rolling into Sabinal I saw a Dairy Queen and pulled in. I wasn't planning on stopping, but visiting a Dairy Queen is the very last thing on my eccentric list of things I wanted to do in the U.S. Frankly, it's disappointing - just another fast food joint.

The good thing about the impromptu stop was that I took another look at my maps and saw a backroad that would take me to Uvalde away from the highway. It looked rough to begin with but eventually was paved. Once out of the town I took my turnoff down a twisty gravel road. The first omens were good - a pick-up coming towards me pulled in and stopped to let me by. As I saluted my gratitude the driver smiled widely and tipped his hat. I continued on past little houses. Then I came to a gate and a no trespassing sign. The road continued on the other side but I wasn't going to ignore the sign in Texas!

Back on the highway the traffic wasn't so bad, but I was missing my adventure on the back road. After a few Kms I came to another turn off. I stopped, checked my maps again, saw that I could make it work, then spent about five minutes trying to safely cross the highway. Maybe I'd hit another blockage, but it was worth the risk. I had a reservation, I was under no pressure.

Once on the backroad I was on gravel, but also another little piece of cycling Heaven! Within minutes there was only the sound of birds (and the wind). It was glorious! Instead of looking at the landscape in the distance from the highway, I was now in the landscape! I was cycling past well irrigated fields, scrubland, open plains and large clumps of trees and bushes. It was simply magnificent!

In the first hour three pickups passed me. No other traffic! As silly as it sounds, breaking away from the "plan" only heightened the sense of adventure! I passed lots of cacti, saw a real live armadillo snuffling in the grass, stopped in the road and had a staring match with a young deer. What a great day!

Eventually the surface became paved, then merged with another road, but the traffic still was very light. Now was payback time though, in the form of hills! Short, steep, straight up then straight down again all the time facing a blazing sun. Still worth it though.

My cheapy Decathlon trousers finally gave up the ghost too - the crotch and ass finally giving way! At least I had some ventilation in the heat!

I rolled into town, found the motel and sat down outside to finish this off.

Tomorrow is Christmas Eve and I'm booked into a campground. I'll try to be on the road early to arrive early. I'll probably stay there for Christmas Day too, unless it's totally unsuitable and have a lazy rest day. Camping at Christmas! How exotic!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 103 Tuesday Dec 24, Uvalde to Brackettville 69km

You know, this Highway riding isn't really such a bad thing!

I woke up at 4:30 am - much too early to get up and get going and had trouble getting back to sleep. I eventually succeeded but then was groggy when trying to drag myself out of bed.

A coffee and decent breakfast sorted me out so I showered, packed up and rolled back onto Highway 90. Traffic was heavy in town, but once outside the road opened up and my shoulder appeared.

Just a by the by, I'm figuring out that sometimes it's better to pay the extra €5-10 for a decent breakfast option. Today I had eggs & sausage, waffles, toast, yoghurt, juice & lots of coffee. Much more relaxed than a filling station.

It was shaping up to be another warm day!

There were no reasonable backroad options today - none at least that didn't seriously increase the distance. I was a little perturbed about my reservation - I'd made it over the phone back in Austin. No payment required, no credit card details needed. It all seemed very casual - totally unlike most of my campground admin experiences here. So, getting to my destination as quickly as possible was today's goal.

It's just that speed doesn't suit me! There are lots of things to stop and savour along the way - even on the Highway!

The Highway today didn't really know what it was. It started out as a four lane divided highway, then became a two lane road and sometimes became a three lane road for some of the hills. All the time I had a shoulder, though, and the traffic was light, at least going in my direction.

I crossed a river early on that was running dry, but the remaining water had the most amazing colour!

The landscape was a lot of scrubland but at the top of some of the hills it felt like I could see for days! Again, the immensity of the landscape has to be experienced! There are ranches dotted along the side of the highway, but a lot of the land seems to be just scrubland. I can't imagine how too many cattle thrive in these conditions. I'm also unclear on why one area seems to be fertile and farmed, while the area next to it is scrubland. I've seen lots of the huge, wheeled irrigation machines - an absolute necessity in these parts, no doubt.

Developed land surrounded by scrub

I also passed an "Inspection Center" on the other side of the road. What exactly they were inspecting wasn't clear - it was only for east-bound traffic - but there must have been two dozen cameras of different types, heights and angles on my side of the road too.

The wind has turned for today so I was benefitting from a lovely tailwind a lot of the time. It's a wonderful feeling to be gliding along.

Then I crossed into Kinney county and I got an early Christmas present! The road surface went from rough chip and seal to beautifully smooth tarmac. It was heaven! Now I was really flying along! If only all road surfaces were like this!

Close to my destination I passed another layby picnic site - Texas seems really good for those.

I arrived nice and early at the Fort Clark Springs site which has my campsite. No problem getting in, cycled down to the campground where I was expected and was given the choice of pitching in the RV section or the primitive section. I took the primitive - I have the whole place to myself! Well, myself and a friendly deer!

I got the tent set up and rolled back down to the town. I got a subway (open tomorrow too!) and a Mexican beer to enjoy back at my spot.

Sitting down back at the campsite I was in my element! It was warm & sunny, I had my Kindle out, the sandwich was delicious. All was great until I tasted my beer! Flavoured with lemon (Ok!), salt (a bit weird, but Ok!) and ….. tomato!!!!

Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!!

Tomorrow will be a rest day. I'll do a little bike maintenance and just relax. The weather is turning again though. Looks like I'll be cycling into Mexico in the rain!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 104, Wednesday December 25, Brackettville 0 km.

Well, the day didn't start as planned - there was a light drizzle falling. What happened my sunshine???

I lazed in bed, then got up and made a big pot of strong coffee. The drizzle was so light I was barely damp.

Sitting at my picnic table, drinking my coffee, reading my Kindle was still a pretty good way to be starting my day!

Then, a golf buggy approached me and a man stepped out to talk to me.

"Uh oh", I thought, someone's checking up on me & my registration yesterday was as informal as my registration - no paper trail.

I'm glad to say I was totally wrong! Warren had come over especially to invite me to a Christmas dinner being held at the RV ground. They'd be delighted to have a foreign cyclist eat with them, no contribution necessary!

There's a genuineness to American hospitality that is very difficult to decline so I found myself happily agreeing to visit.

I then set about updating this blog and as I did so, Joe, another resident, came over to make the same invitation! I was a wanted man - in Texas!

I went over for noon and was made most welcome. Everyone was older than me, most were retirees and escaping winter in their own part of the U.S. Conversation was about my trip, well intentioned warnings about Mexico and then it drifted into all different areas. Joe was proudly wearing a Trump 2020 T-Shirt and the debate was lively but respectful - the way politics used to be. It was a very pleasant couple of hours.

Then I went back to my tent and set about doing a bit of maintenance on Roccado. The sun was out now, blazing in a beautiful, blue sky!

I was ready to change the chain, but the wear indicator told me it was still in good condition. I gave the chain a good cleaning instead. It was while cleaning my rims that I saw the bulge in the sidewall of my rear tyre. The boot wasn't doing its job so I removed the tyre, rebooted it with gorilla tape & pumped it back up. It seems to be holding better now - no bulge, at least. I'll watch it tomorrow and see how it goes. I do have a spare folding tyre that I can use, but frankly, the thread is still good for a lot more Kms. I readjusted the brakes and made a mount for the light that was donated to me at the traffic lights in Jackson on the rear of my trailer. It was while doing that I realised that the flag from my trailer was missing!!

The bulge through the tyre

It's possible, though highly unlikely, that it was swiped when I stopped at a store just before the campground. I take quite a few pictures of the road behind me that include the flag so I know I had it yesterday about an hour or so before I arrived. It was too late to head back out the road to look for it, so I'll pop back in the morning before I leave. From the last photo I have a good idea how far back I have to go.

Last confirmed sighting of my flag!

I also got to speak with the folks that I'd have been spending Christmas with under normal circumstances. Wonderful and uplifting, yet a little sad at the same time.

Dinner was simple, chili and nacho chips and some chocolate as the sun was setting while reading my book. Simple, yet so satisfying!

On a downside, I had seen this morning on the CGOAB forums that a regular contributor may have been involved in a fatal accident in Australia. By the afternoon it had been confirmed. This news has affected me quite deeply. He was an experienced bike tourer and an Australian to boot. If it can happen to him on his home turf, it can happen to anyone. Then there is also the time of year. For his family, Christmas Day will never be the same again.

I know that people worry about me, but I'm very lucky that while most express concern, everyone is supportive.

A few days ago I was becoming apprehensive about Mexico. Every time I mention Mexico here the standard response is "That's so dangerous!". I suppose there is a cumulative effect (like the dogs) where the apprehension grows and grows. Yet, to date, the most dangerous experiences have been cars and dogs - sometimes a combination of the two.

Two days ago when I turned off the highway onto the backroads the spirit of adventure was pumping through my veins.

A couple of weeks ago when I saw the Mississippi for the first time I felt like an explorer.

Stopping in the dark on the Natchez Trace to feel the inky black all around me and hear the animals scurrying hither and thither made me feel alive and fearless.

Camping at some of the amazing sites I have stayed has shown me how beautiful this planet of ours can be and just how lucky I am to visit.

The random acts of kindness from dinner today, to my welcome at the church or fire departments, to the man who gave me an extra rear light, to the little kid who wanted to give a homeless man some money at Christmas time demonstrate clearly that there are so many good people in the world.

I suppose the point I'm struggling to make is that if I gave in to my fears, I'd also be giving up on the chance to have so many wonderful experiences.

Happy Christmas

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 105, Thursday December 26, Brackettville (still!) 0 km

I was awake about 6:30 am but it was a very gloomy morning and still not bright.

First step of the day was to head back the way I had come to look for my flag. I can't help but think that it's height, flexibility and brightness is a big advantage in catching people's attention.

I waited until about 8 am to head off. Straight away I was into a headwind but on the unladen bike it was no big deal.

If the flag was on the shoulder I'd see it easily enough from the other side of the road, but if it had gone into the verge that would be much harder. Add to that the verge was often a steep slope invisible from the other side.

The traffic was relatively light but seemed to consist of drivers who had used up all their Christmas spirit! Even the cops were out pulling people. I saw them searching the SUV of an elderly couple, the man in a wheelchair, the woman in tears.

I reckoned that I'd have about 25km at a max to get to the place where the photo told me I definitely had it. There were a couple of false alarms and then I saw it in the shoulder! In perfect condition!

Whooping with joy I picked it up & cruised back to the campground. I hadn't bothered to bring Gizmo but I reckon I'd gone about 20kms. I'd also neglected to bring my wallet which meant no i.d. Today of all days, that was a disturbing thought.

On that point I have to say that I have felt pretty happy about security for most of my trip thus far. At short stops at filling stations etc I never lock the bike. I have locked it outside of Walmart simply because the car parks are so big and busy. I had no qualms leaving my gear I my tent this morning. I'm a bit of a celebrity with the folks in the RV park.

I got back to the tent and set about making breakfast. People keep coming over to talk to me! It's quite nice actually.

Over breakfast I decided that I wasn't feeling it today and decided to stay another day. The forecast is for rain, but so far it has remained dry except for a handful of drops.

I had a shower, reattached the flag to the trailer and pulled out my tablet.

An afternoon of the first season of Cheers definitely lifted the spirits!

I also wrote out some cards to send to people. I wrote to folks at home but also to places like the Fire Departments that had me to stay. I also collected my maps together and sent them to Jim at the church in Kirbyville. If anyone knows how to use them, he will.

Some "flag" pictures....

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 106, Friday Dec 27, Brackettville to Del Rio 54km

I was determined to get away today! The forecasted rain never came other than a few drops. The morning was overcast & windy. I changed my usual routine and packed up before having breakfast. The tent was dry and I wanted to keep it that way.

Then it was time for coffee & porridge. Again, while eating I had visitors!

And some human ones too, extending an invitation to stay another day and join in the Saturday breakfast! People here are genuinely kind & generous.

Online, I booked a motel for the night. None of the campgrounds are set up for tents although some of the RV parks will take them. Given the rain forecast I chose the more comfortable option.

On the way out of town I pulled into the local bank to see if I could buy some pesos. I'd rather not cross the border without them and I'd rather not be under pressure to stop at the first atm I see.

The bank didn't have any but when I asked if she knew anywhere in Del Rio the lady called another bank and came back with a list! Such service!

Setting off I was quite relaxed. The wind was coming from the south east, I was heading due west - it would blow me along!

Traffic was relatively light, but noisy. There's no rumble strip so no music for me. The highway went from two to three to four lanes and back again. The sky was full of impending doom - in fact, it stayed impending the whole time.

About 15km out of Brackettville there was another picnic layby. I love these! A place to stop in comfort. Given that there's one about the same distance the far side of Brackettville they are great for cyclists! No water or bathrooms though

The sky was where all the action was today. It looked angry, dark & foreboding, but the wind had me rolling along. The sun broke out once or twice and its power was clear - the temperature rose by almost 10C, dropping back when the clouds returned.

About 20km from Del Rio the shoulder God's shine on me! The shoulder which had been chip and seal became baby smooth tarmac - just the shoulder - and I flew along even faster.

The ride into Del Rio was hassle free, if busy. I found the motel easy enough but crossing the road was too dangerous. Instead I rode past intending to use the pedestrian crossing at the next lights. In doing so, I passed one of the banks for pesos so went in. It would take twenty minutes to organise, so I went back to the motel, checked in, showered, did laundry and then picked up my pesos. Easy peasy!

Tomorrow, I'll be crossing the border and heading south - into the wind. I'll be taking a major highway (there aren't any other options).

I was thinking today that this is actually the first "official" border crossing I'll be doing on the bike despite having cycled through 13 (I think) in Europe and crossing the Atlantic. (US immigration was just me in a big room, not unlike the airplane process). It's quite exciting!

Since I have a visa (as opposed to a waiver) I have a document to hand over to US immigration when I leave. Mexico should give me 120 days which should be enough to get me (at least) close to the border. My understanding is that if I'm under pressure I can catch a bus to the border, leave the country, then come back in for another 120 days.

This is where things start to get interesting! I'd be lying if I said I've no anxiety. Everyone tells me Mexico is dangerous. At the same time it's going to be totally different to anywhere I've been before! I'm worried too, about my total lack of Spanish.

Oh well, I wanted an adventure!

Before I leave Texas, I have to say what a fantastic place it is!! I rode into Texas on December 08 and I'll be leaving 20 days later - and I've still only seen a tiny piece of the State! It's huge!!

I loved it, but then again I've wanted to visit for a long time.

Texans appear to be genuinely friendly, if a little direct and gruff. There's a level of respect for others on display all the time. I can't count the times someone will stand back and let me enter or exit a door first. I watched with much amusement two guys striding to the bar at Gruene Hall. Once they spotted each other they both stopped and intimated for the other to go first. Neither moved!

Of all the States I've cycled through, Texas is certainly the proudest. The state flag is everywhere, single (lone) stars are everywhere too. People's yards are generally much better kept, houses are bigger, neater and better maintained. Of course, that may be due to where I cycled. While there are yards littered with broken down cars, they are rarer than anywhere else, although, to emphasise the scale of Texas, I did pass a yard with the remains of two airplanes in the yard!!

Another thing about Texas - they seem to love basketball! I haven't seen so many baskets rigged up in people's yards since there was a basketball boom in my hometown in the eighties!

I'd heard that Texas was horrible to ride a bike in, but that's not my interpretation. Yes, the speed limits make no sense and yes the volume of traffic can be deafening, most of the riding was fine. Of course, Austin & San Antonio appear to be outliers in Texas cities. Dallas, I believe, is one of the most bike unfriendly cities….in the world! Thanks to the fences and speed limits dogs are much less of a problem then elsewhere.

Of course, I'm also leaving the States too! I've cycled through eight states and visited two others in a car.

It's expensive to cycle tour in! Camping is generally not cheap, food is expensive and fresh food is difficult to come by in small town USA.

Conditions are certainly mixed. I'm really glad about the way I did this part of the trip. As opposed to following a route I was visiting places that I wanted to visit. There were times if I was just following a route I think I would have considered abandoning it.

I encountered conditions I've never encountered before. I've never come close to running out of water in Europe, nor have I ever had to wait out a storm. But that's all part of the adventure!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 107, Saturday Dec 28, Del Rio Tx to Morelos, Mexico 115km

Cycle.Travel doesn't work in Mexico. It's a big loss because as far as I'm concerned it's the king of cycle route planners. I'll especially miss it for navigation in large cities.

Or at least….that's what I thought until last night. Checking every last detail I looked at the cycle.travel map to get me from my motel to the border and it navigated over the border! I stretched it out and it kept plotting a route! Yaaaaay!!

It had some alternate sections than I had planned so I spent a bit of time researching shops/food/accommodation on the alternates. I actually gave serious thought to staying another day in Del Rio to do it properly but after a bit of thinking realised that it was actually anxiety that was holding me back.

It was time to pee, not stay on the pot.

I was up at 6 and popped down to the filling station for coffee. I showered, packed up and went for the motel "breakfast". Stewed coffee & bite size muffins. I did steal two bananas though for the day.

I had everything ready for leaving the States and entering Mexico. The ride to the border was easy - suburbia and backroads to the bridge over the Rio Grande / Rio Bravo depending on your persuasion. Only the weather wasn't friendly. Dark, ominous skies and a wind from the south - a strong one too!

75 cents for bike to cross the bridge. I cruised across not stopping to take a snap of the river - too nervous and besides it really didn't seem remarkable. I saw no signs of any wall. Before I knew it I was in Mexico!

I followed a pickup past a bank of cameras and then all hell broke loose! Sirens went off, lights started flashing and 4 guys with big guns approached me. The main guy was laughing & smiling and only interested in my trip! His final words to me were "Bless you", which I found surprisingly moving. Before I knew it I was out on the street cycling away…..in Mexico!!!

After about 15 minutes I saw a mobile phone shop & pulled in to get a sim card. Easy enough, if a little slow. I was really glad I did stop, because while I was waiting, I realised that ;

1. I hadn't exited the U.S. properly
2. I hadn't entered Mexico properly!

Back I went. It was too late to do anything about the U.S side of things but it was a bit tricky to get to the building to get my entry permit. Eventually I prevailed, filled in my form, paid my money and got my stamp! Now I was good to go! (Had I not done this I would have had issues leaving Mexico). I have 180 days in Mexico! The three people I dealt with were charm personified as they dealt with this Cabrón who spoke no Spanish.

I cycled through Ciudad Acuña (again) and was soon on the main highway south. Once out of the town the highway settled down into a two lane road with a wide, smooth shoulder. For cycling it wasn't bad at all!

I passed my first security road block a little out of town. A little intimidating and a reminder that all is not well in these parts.

I had reread the travel advice for Mexico again last night. Kidnapping, robbery & worse. Local police in cahoots with the criminals. In typical Australian lyricism, when told to do something by a criminal their advice is to do as you're told or else you will be killed.

My first encounter with Mexican dogs was actually while still in the secure area before I left (the first time!). Some local dogs were running around but causing no problem. Leaving town I was chased on the main highway, but he was a barker, not a biter. A little later I approached another dog apprehensively since he was chasing every car and truck that passed. He ignored me! I didn't know whether to be happy or disappointed!

The edge of the town stretched out for a while but when the last of human settlement disappeared the scrubland desert took over. It seems more stunted than Texas, the bushes and trees that grow are definitely shorter meaning I can see further. And what views! Like Texas…..only better!

For most of the day there were rolling hills, a constant rise and fall on roads that were unbelievably straight! I could see for miles until the road disappeared over the crest of some faraway hill. Some of the roads today were simply amazing!

It was relatively cool but then the wind started to change. It didn't swing fully around, but it became a crosswind rather than a headwind. A little later it shifted more so that it was really pushing me along. That coincided with the sun breaking out of the clouds and the temperature shooting up. Since the wind was now from the North it was definitely cooler!

I passed through a few small settlements and villages. Nothing remarkable except for the speed bumps! Instead of actual bumps, or sleeping policemen, they use rows of metal discs that rise above the road surface, often in groups of five as on dice. Trying to weave through those was fun on a loaded bike with three wheels! There's also lines of them so passing cars hammer out a rhythm!

I got lots of beeps from horns today. If they were trying to intimidate me they all failed miserably! In fact, I'm pretty sure that every single beep was either a friendly "I'm coming up behind you" or a friendly show of encouragement. The fact that there was zero confusion in my mind got me thinking that maybe there's a difference in the tone & volume between American & Mexican cars?

In any case, I was made to feel like a part of the furniture on Mexican roads. Just about everyone was very respectful and gave lots of space when they passed.

One thing that was a bit freaky is the tendency to drive in the shoulder, especially if slow moving. It's a bit shocking to see an 18 wheeler rolling up behind me on the shoulder! In fairness they all pulled out in good time.

There's no rumble strip here so no music for me today. I have to say though, that the shoulder that lasted as far as Zaragoza was probably the longest and most consistent in terms of width and quality of my whole trip so far! Go Mexico!

The Federal police were active on the highway too, pulling well laden pick-up trucks. Then they pulled me over too!!
All they wanted was a chat! I was so frustrated. My Spanish will either get me arrested or slapped across the face so I can't really communicate. I used Google translate on my phone to answer most of the questions. I was even asked where my wife & kids were!! The cop who asked me that looked wistful when I explained that I had neither!

On again and now I was really flying! I had no set destination for today since I had no idea how long immigration would take. It was looking like Zaragoza, about 100 km down the road.

I'm expecting to motel it for the next few nights, more for security than anything else. I may get more adventurous later, but for now, all the warnings are ringing in my ears.

Without thinking, I had told the cops I was heading to Zaragoza - immediately afterwards I was wondering if that was smart. Whenever a car or pick up pulled in ahead of me (to turn off) I was immediately scanning the road for other cars for security. I took a lot less photos today, as well, for the simple reason that I did not want to draw attention to myself nor inadvertently catch the wrong car or people in a photo. I don't like feeling this way and I hope I can put these thoughts to bed soon enough.

Having said that, lots of people waved and saluted me. I got lots of smiles. One man had a flock of about 60-80 goats grazing "the long acre" as we'd say in Ireland - the grass on the side of the road. I was particularly careful cycling past him and his animals because I didn't want to frighten them. He was very friendly and smiley.

When researching this leg of the trip I could find no records of anyone having cycled this way. People tend to either do the Baja peninsula or go down the east coast (actually it seems most go up!). Perhaps I'm an oddity in this part of the world and that's why people are so friendly.

I stopped in Zaragoza for some food from a van. Again, a very friendly man helped me with my choice and the food was delicious! His wife was the cook and she couldn't comprehend what I was doing. Their kids were mesmerized by the bike! Again, I was frustrated that I couldn't really communicate, although he spoke some English.

I didn't fancy the look of the hotel in Zaragoza so continued on to Morelos. The motel has seen better days for sure, there's no hot water and my bedspread would kill you if you woke up looking at it suffering from a hangover, but the old man running it is a treasure. Practically no English but still made me welcome. Again, I'm frustrated at my inability to communicate.

I'm off now to wash up (in the cold water!) and then get something to eat.

For a first day in Mexico, it's been pretty damn good!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 108, Sunday Dec 29, Morelos to Sabinas 77km

If you asked me to describe a bad day's touring I'm sure I'd mention straight roads, no place for bikes, monotonous scenery and no stopping places so it is a testament to the charm of Mexico that I had all those today and still enjoyed myself immensely!

Today wasn't going to be the longest day on record so I was slow to get up & get moving. First priority was a filling station for coffee & water for the day.

With the coffee I bought a cheese & ham sandwich that came with chilis! Tasty!

Mexican towns really like to announce themselves! ​

I set off just after 10 and it was already warm - low 20sC. Getting out of town was easy and soon I was on a shoulderless dual carriageway. Traffic just let me have the lane!

I passed a sign for Villa Union. That's the place where a small convoy of American Mormons were ambushed and killed by members of the Cartel a couple of months ago. I remember seeing that and my heart sinking because, to date, most of the Cartel activity was either west or east of these parts. Yes, I know that reads incredibly selfish & self absorbed.

Just before Allende I turned on to 57. Such confusion and chaos at a junction I have never seen before! There were stalls selling nuts, people hitch hiking, trucks parked facing every direction and no road markings at all!

I weaved my way along until I was on the road proper.

Again, no shoulder to talk of, but a dual carriageway so I had pretty much full use of my lane. Later the road split into the toll version and the free version. However, before that there was some kind of checkpoint and most, but not all, traffic going in my direction was joining a queue. I approached a security guard (very heavily armed) and told him where I wanted to go. He waved me on.

At the split I opted for the toll road but then saw a no cycling sign. Hmmmmm. I've read of other cyclists (in other areas) who take the toll roads - they're better quality, have shoulders and safer (in the context of crime). I stopped for a while and decided to take the "libre", non toll road.I didn't want any hassle from the police.

My choice quickly became a two lane road with no shoulder. Hmmmmm. Maybe I made the wrong choice!

Traffic was, in the main, relatively light, but there was a regular supply of trucks going in both directions. Given that the road was so narrow the only real safety issue was when passing traffic would meet in the vicinity of me! The edge of the road was treacherous, often a drop of a good 15-20 cm (sometimes more) onto a variety of surfaces. Sometimes there was a dirt road parallel to the main road which I sometimes used, but getting back onto the road was tricky.

A few cars passed a little too close for my liking, leaving it to the last minute to overtake, but the real surprise was the trucks! Without exception they used the other lane to overtake. Using my mirror I saluted when they pulled out and I reckon about two thirds of the trucks gave a toot on their horn in a friendly way! I was feeling very welcome on the road! When I saw oncoming traffic and a truck behind me I did pull off to let everyone pass safely.

In fact, today I received lots of beeps, waves, flashing lights and and salutes from drivers, pedestrians and motorcyclists! When I was passing through Nueva Rosita near the end of my cycling day, the street surface was so bad and so rough I had to take the middle of the lane just to get through. Aware that traffic was piling up behind me, I pulled over the first chance I got. I was expecting abuse and horns, instead I got waves, smiles and, best of all, parents holding little kids up so they could have a good look at the funny guy on the bike!

And the roads!! Again, so straight, fading away in the distance! At one stage I crested a hill and saw the road rising and falling away into the distant, blue mountains. Such an exhilirating sight!

Mexico is great!

The last stretch was on a big highway that had a shoulder, although not in the best condition. I'd made a reservation on Booking.com and expected to find my hotel in the centre. Instead I cycled past it long before the centre! Confused, I stopped, checked and tried to cross the road. Once successful, I was halted by a man on the other side of the road who wanted to talk to me. His big smile meant I wasn't worried while I waited for him to cross over. He was very friendly, wanting to know about my trip. He's a bit of a mountain biker and was very complimentary about Roccado. He wanted photos so I happily posed, then presented me with an orange! To add to all the waves, beeps and smiles today I can now add a big hug!

The travel advisories don't say that!!

The hotel's very nice with a restaurant attached - a good thing since it's not in the centre! After a good shower, some laundry I had the most wonderful dinner and two beers! Thankfully a copy of the menu was in the room so I knew what I wanted when I sat down - thank you Google Translate!

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to tackle the section that runs over the New Year celebrations. There's a bit of a desert to cross, a severe lack of stores for resupply and water not to mention accommodation. There are beauty spots and nature reserves and there are minor roads. Basically, there's a whole load of factors that I need to try to balance optimally.

Tomorrow's another century day. When there's no cloud cover the sun gets pretty hot. The wind seems to switch around during the day, too. I was never one for hot weather but I do enjoy my sunshine on the bike so long as there's a wind to stop me overheating.

If I was asked to sum up Mexico (I know I've only been here two days!) in one word it would be smiles. I can't recall seeing so many people smiling at me! And smiling is contagious!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 109, Monday Dec 30, Sabinas to Monclova 118 km

Dinner last night was fabulous and I had a good sleep until about 3:30 am when people arrived back into the room above me. The floors here are all tiled, I presume, for the coolness in hot weather. Unfortunately there seems to be a lack of insulation between floors so I heard every step quite loudly!

I adapted, rolled over & went back to sleep!

I was up early enough & wandered down to the local filling station for coffee, a sandwich & some cake.

I was hitting the road just after 9 am - the morning rush hour having abated. Getting through Sabinas was easy enough since I effectively bypassed the centre. Then I was on 57 for the rest of the day.

It's a challenge to describe cycling on these roads in any great detail since they are straight (although today did have some bends!), are passing through a desert region where the scenery varies little and there are no towns or villages to talk of. Despite that, I am loving this section!

This desert landscape is still so new to me that it has a "whole new world" feel to it. The long, long roads disappearing over the horizon, or around a bend are inspiring to me, inviting, or challenging me, to conquer them. There's a sense of real distances being covered, almost as if I'm on a quest of some kind.

There is no boredom since I do need to keep my wits about me. This is a dual carriageway, no shoulder, so I have to keep an eye constantly on my mirror. There's not a lot of traffic but it's interesting how many times a car overtakes another just at the place where I am on the road! The trucks are far better, giving lots of room, and again, often a toot on the horn. What's especially surprising is how many toots I get from the opposite carriageway!

As I passed the mountains that were blue in the distance yesterday, I can see that they're actually covered in green vegetation. Ahead I can see more blue mountains that I'll be needing to traverse at some stage. They're bigger than these ones!

I did get to see some wildlife today! Climbing slowly up a hill, I noticed movement in the long grass at the side of the road. It was a wild cat of some description! At least two to three times the size of a domestic cat, but with similar markings. I got the impression we both saw each other at the same time and gave each other a shock! Knowing nothing about what it was or it's likely reaction I pedalled on, head swiveling to make sure I wasn't attacked.

There were very, very few places to stop along the way. There's not many rivers, hence no bridges. The bridges are great to stop at - there's normally a shoulder to keep me off the road and a crash barrier I can sit on. I did come across a little area on the opposite side of the road with a picnic table under cover, but there were two cars pulled in at the side acting a little suspiciously. I rolled on.

I did stop about lunchtime at a bridge for some cake. The temperature was rising towards 30C although the wind was keeping me cool.

Then it was back on the bike for more of the same. Just reading that makes it sound boring - but it really isn't! I'm sure if it was raining the long roads would be brutal. But the sun is shining, the road might be numbered 57, but its name is Adventure!

I did pass a few fantastic vantage points for photos, but there was no safe space to stop. On bends, and especially in dips in the road, I have to be careful because it's easy to disappear from view.

About 15 Kms from Monclova I came to a filling station and stopped for refreshment. I got coffee & cake from the most surly person I've encountered so far and went outside to sit on a picnic table and rest up.

The coffee was cold! Yuck! While sitting, a guy came over to talk and asked to look at my bike. It was about 30 meters away so I said no problem. Then an older man came over too. He spoke good English and was all questions about my trip, translating for the younger guy who was amazed at my bike.

He wanted to know why I went to the places I visited, so I explained about my musical pilgrimage. Then I told him about Espinazo del diablo - The Devil's Backbone. Of course he knew about it and was very excited for me. They left me to my cold coffee wishing me well.

I was definitely feeling the distance when I set off again. Thankfully, I now had a decent shoulder for the way into Monclova, a city of over 200,000.

The city itself was pleasant and easy enough to ride into. They did have some serious speed bumps, though, sometimes single, steep bumps, sometimes five in a row! I actually cycled past my hotel and turning around was the most difficult part.

Hotel is modern and there was no problem taking my bike up to my room.

All day I've been pondering my options for the next leg. Today was the guts of 100km with no services. The next stage is 200km (or more depending on route). I've looked up every resource I know looking for camping spots, accommodation options and there are none. Then there's New Year and the impact that may have on the road. Possibly more drunk drivers and probably less traffic in general for help and a general sense of security. Add in the fact that this state is on the "avoid travelling to" list I have to say I'm nervous. While stopped for my cold coffee I found a cheap hotel and booked in for the New Year. I'm thinking discretion is the better part of valour in this case.


Happy New Year!!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Days 110-111, Dec 31, 2019 & Jan 01, 2020, Relaxing in Monclova 0km


I decided that travelling over the holidays was too risky, especially given the next leg - crossing a desert with gaps in civilisation of about 180 - 200 km.


I basically have two choices;

One is the main road to Saltillo. This is probably the safer option in terms of lots of traffic.

The second option is Mex30, a quieter route, longer but more scenic.


I hummed & hawed. The travel advisories are to the front of my mind. "Don't drive on the highways at night!" - I'll be stealth camping at least once along the highway!


I'm not used to choosing the more trafficed road as the safe option. The Saltillo road does have one stealth spot on iOverlander, Mex30 has none.


Feck it! This is supposed to be an adventure! I'm taking the Mex30 route!


New Year's day I had planned to explore the city. As it turned out it was windy and wet - very wet. I didn't do a lot!


Damn Netflix! After getting excited that Cheers & Frasier had been added, I discovered they'd been dropped in Mexico!!

Happy New Year!

Hobbes' first bike tour, 2014

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.