The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Sunday June 06, 2021

I was up early, went downstairs to get coffee and it was wet and incredibly miserable.
I had a 60km ride ahead of me and had to climb 2000 meters.

No. Just no.

It was also Election Day in México and I haven't checked the news for a while, but the last count was 16 assassinations of candidates. A number of stores were closed (and remained so all day), alcohol sales were banned.

It really didn't take much to convince me to take a day off the road.

Also, I'm getting close to Guatemala. San Cristobal de las Casas is next up, then downhill to Guatemala. Guatemala will let me in with a negative Covid test. In fact, I can probably make my way down as far as Panama just by taking tests.
Getting to Colombia will be tricky, probably requiring a plane and after Colombia? Who knows? Ecuador and Peru are not good.

It's rainy season and hurricane season in lands suffering a pandemic.

I'm not feeling positive.

There is still a lot of Mexico to explore but anywhere on the coast scares the bejaysus out of me with the heat!

My visitor permit is good until August (after that I'll need to cross a border) and my insurance needs to be renewed (actually a whole new policy) in September. Two feckin' years nearly up already!

I've looked into work in exchange for accommodation but there's not much happening with the exception of hostels and I don't think I'd enjoy that.

Heading back to the U.S. is a possibility - I'm not sure if they'll let me in and Winter is coming!

It's thinking time!

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Monday, June 07, 2021, Tuxtla Gutiérrez to San Cristóbal de las Casas 59km Total KM 1484

Min meters 424, Max Meters 2259
Total Climb 2117 Total Descent 337
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 45
Ave Temp 30


Ah, my plans were in disarray before I even woke up! I overslept and wasn't leaving until 7. Bah! I had wanted to be leaving at 6, coffeed up, to get a good run at the big climb ahead before it got too hot.

Traffic was on the hectic side and because of a big river and a lack of bridges there wasn't much I could do to avoid it

Leaving Tuxtla and crossing a swiftly flowing river. Down below are the boats used to zip tourists through the canyon where monkeys, birds and crocodiles are to be seen. I've read varying reports of the quality of these tours​

I was taking the cuota today. With over 2000 meters of climbing ahead of me I figured I'd need the generous shoulder.

I dropped out of the city past the entrance to the Cañón de Sumidero and saw the brightly coloured boats used to bring tourists along the river to see crocodiles and monkeys. The river was very brown and fast flowing with lots of debris. Perhaps I should have done this tour yesterday but the rain and my mood put me off. I can always catch a bus back from San Cristóbal.

Since the climbing started from here I plugged in my little speaker and headed up. I was going to need my music!

For most of the day the land to my left sloped down to me and was pretty wild, lush and green. ​

I'm sure I'm not unique in this observation, but my i-pod kicks ass!!!
The sheer range of music on it is phenomenal, even if a bit embarrassing at times. I haven't really used it in a long time so just sticking on shuffle and listening to whatever it threw at me was very enjoyable!

The land to my right was a rich plain, productive with mountains far off in the distance. There was little change except it got lower and lower

​

My first target was an Oxxo another 10km up the road for water and coffee. I hadn't had coffee yet and today was going to be a coffee day! It was already warm and the lack of clouds suggested more heat when the sun got into its stride.

I wasn't wrong!

The Roadworks appeared after the Oxxo, disappeared for a while and resumed later. This piccie also highlights the sun/shade situation​

Progress was slow but steady. This is a two laner with shoulders, but of course, the shoulder is used as a lane by slower traffic. The Touring Gods were being kind, though, throwing some roadworks into the mix which effectively sealed off the shoulder for me behind barriers. Sure, it meant having to take the lane from time to time, the rest of the time I was cocooned in my own little safe world.

Taking a breather in bright sunshine!​

Due to direction and the angle of the sun the only shade offered was on the other side of the road. When I'd see a likely spot I'd pull over, leave the bike in the rain gully and sit down. Because of the narrower road the traffic passed close, but safely. At the more luxurious spots I could even lie down!

One thing I look out for now are ants! There always seems to be ants and they are incredibly busy running hither and thither and carrying all kinds of things. In rough or overgrown spots it can be difficult to see the "big picture" with them, but in smoother, cleaner scenes long lines of ants can contrast easily with their surroundings. It really is fascinating.

At one such stop, lying down, I was passed by a long line of traffic behind a slowly climbing truck. I'm sure the image I presented was one of laid back cyclist, taking it easy (especially since I was on the "down" side of the road) as opposed to the overheated, behind schedule dumbass I was, but I got a lot of waves and toots from the opposite lane. I don't know what it says about me that friendly recognition from strangers can be so uplifting.

As the sun rose higher, shadow became scarcer and my internal temperature was rising. Water consumption was high but I was confident that I'd have chances to replenish. My music was proving a wonderful distraction and I was getting a lot of toots and waves from passing traffic. I did get a bit concerned when I reached the junction with a small town and there was no shop and similarly passed a group of empty shops/comedores on both sides of the road. With about half a liter of water left and not yet halfway I started to ration.

Relief came in the firm of a roadside "Elote" stand that sold corn on the cob. It was only getting started so I had some water, crisps (for the salt) and topped up my bottles.

The weather starting to turn..... But at least I was getting high!

​

By now dark clouds were appearing and starting to block out the sun, changing the nature of the heat from direct to steamy. Spying some proper restaurants ahead I prepared to pull in but passed the first block in favour of a lone one a little later.
Such views! From high up I could see, it seemed, forever, or at least until detail was lost in the haze. Behind me, looking up, was just as impressive but much more intimidating! Dark clouds were becoming angry and starting to swirl in an increasing wind.
Then the rain started.
After that the rain lashed!
And the temperature dropped.
I was cold!
Shivering cold!
I can't remember the last time being so cold!
I donned my rain jacket for warmth and waited out the downpour. It was a sustained, heavy downpour for at least half an hour then progressively lightened off. Once again I was lucky.

The view at the restaurant. The really ugly clouds were behind me​

Stopped, at last, although still with a threatening sky overhead I set off again. I hadn't gone 200 meters when the thunder rolled - but the rain held off. Still cool, I found myself making decent progress thanks to a fenced off shoulder.

This area is called "The Sea of the Clouds". Even in spitting rain I can see why.​

Then it wasn't dry anymore. With a fantastic bang the rain started again. I made it to a barrier, parked up and hopped under some trees. About as much use as a shelter as a hanky. At least the deluge didn't last long, although a lighter rain continued on.

Back on the road again, the temperature dropped to 16C, the lowest of the day. From mid twenties when I started to mid forties at the peak. Being a tad cold is a great incentive for getting warm and it wasn't long until I was overheating in my rain jacket. The rain eased off and I started to wonder if taking it off would tempt fate? Feck it, off it came!

With about 8km to go my climbing was over!! Heading down the other side cold was an issue again! Yep! I'm never happy!
I made the edge of town, had a chat with a street seller at a red light and headed for a hostel.
Then the rain started again! Heavy rain!

Was more rain really a surprise?​

I arrived like the proverbial drowned rat, wet and cold again. Got checked in, showered and set off for food - thankfully in the dry.

A swing, made from a tyre at the restaurant. They had a few different animals, all tyres, but this was my favourite!​

I'm going to hunker down for a few days and try to decide what to do next. Guatemala is just down the road. I can get in with a Covid test. In fact, as things stand, I can get as far as Panama by taking tests at the borders. Then I quite literally run out of road.

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

🇬🇹

Hopefully normal service resumes soon!

 

[HobbesOnTour]

San Cristobal de las Casas is not my kind of town.
Hostels are not my kinds of places.
I'm sure my perceptions are clouded by a really bad dose of the runs but even so…..

I extended my stay twice because I didn't want to be on the road and not be able to control my insides.

I did however decide to cross into Guatemala. How far I'll go is anyone's guess.

The town is surrounded by sharply angled hills covered in greenery. ​

Lots of significant buildings are closed off with metal sheeting. Either all the buildings are getting a simultaneous facelift or I'm seeing the results of recent riots in the state.
This was taken one handed through a gap in the sheeting. ​

A rare break from the rain!

Early morning before the street becomes snarled with traffic​

Even the graffiti was tense. There was a lot of political graffiti everywhere. I think it's fair to say that the Government is not popular here.​

The White Bridge, a local landmark.​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, June 16, 2021, San Cristóbal de las Casas to Comitan 90km Total KM 1574

Min meters 1667, Max Meters 2396
Total Climb 961 Total Descent 1353
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 30
Ave Temp 21

Rolling through Rebel Country

It's good to have a simple objective and today's objective was the very definition of simplicity - cycle 90 odd km without soiling myself.
Mission accomplished!

Armed with a negative Covid test I have 72 hours to cross the border some 170km away. Realistically, I'll want to cross on the morning of the third day so today's destination is Comitán (de Domingo).

Awake before 6 I set about getting organised. I've decided to leave my solar panel in the hostel - realistically it's not going to get any use for the next while and my dynohub should be enough "in case of emergency". I've also dumped my sandals - another strap has failed and again, they will not be the most suitable footwear where I'm going. They're surprisingly heavy to add to the load when I'm not wearing them.

Leaving town. It might seem dull and uninspiring but the clouds playing with the mountains was anything but!​

Getting out of town was a little chaotic but I was soon on a decent road with a decent shoulder with a decent ascent ahead of me. It won't show up well in the photos but the steep, wooded hills all around were either hidden by or rising through some pretty heavy cloud. There's something mysterious and inspiring about that in my world.

There were quite a few roadies leaving or entering town (I didn't see anyone on the climb), none of whom, bar one, actually saw me including the two who whizzed past me way too close almost sending me into a nasty pothole.

Clouds of varying levels of intimidation were a feature of the day. A few raindrops threatened now and again but the day remained dry. Except for when climbing I was bordering on being cold. That's unusual!

After more than a week of less than optimal health that first climb took a lot out of me. Despite the generous shoulder the traffic was an issue too. The usual habit of using the shoulder as a lane was evident but with a tad less ……. consideration. More than once traffic left it to the very, very last moment to pull out. I could understand it if under pressure from an overtaker themselves, but often there was none. It was especially disturbing when a motorcyclist did it. Most negative stories in this part of the world start off with "and then two guys on a motorcycle ……".
Strangely, if stopped, I got lots of waves.

I was in forest country and for the first time in a long time shade wasn't an issue! It wasn't hot and the dense cloud kept the sun away.
I was also in rebel country. This area is Zapatista country - an indigenous movement inspired by Mexico's involvement in the NAFTA (and subsequent) trade deals. While the violence has subsided and the movement now participates in parliamentary elections, it hasn't gone away.
One pretty obvious sign of this is petrol being sold on the side of the road for 15/16 pesos a liter from plastic containers. (The Pemex (State owned) stations start at 20/21 pesos per liter). I've noticed these since entering Chiapas but yesterday there was a density to them that was unignorable and explained the heavily armed convoys I have seen.

I also passed through a Zapatista "town", a big sign announcing that it was run by the inhabitants for the inhabitants. Several murals depicted masked people which predated Covid. It wasn't intimidating, per se, but I didn't feel comfortable stopping to take a photo. There was also a line of huts that, if I understood correctly, was for the use of "volunteers".

Ironically, there is a large army base in the area and after passing that I lost my shoulder and the road turned to crap.

There was a long, twisty descent through several small villages, all bar one, with row upon row of wooden huts selling artesenal products. One village seemed to specialise in ceramics, each hut selling similar merchandise, the next wood. Stores, side by side by side selling the same merchandise. It didn't make a lot of sense to me unless it's a communal effort.

IOverlander is full of reports of checkpoints, official and unofficial, in these parts. Searches for drugs are common at the official stops and can be quite vigorous or less so for a "tip". I passed two today - the first I was stopped for a chat and the second just waved through. There was no shortage of illicit drugs in San Cristóbal.

I stopped in one of the villages for lunch, eating al fresco in the main plaza. Setting off again it wasn't long until I was back into a climb but at least the surface improved and I had a shoulder again! Slow, and despite the cool temperature I was hot and sweaty. I knew I had about 15km to go up, then all downhill. A car pulled in and the driver gave me an apple! A cyclist, he overestimated by 5km how long my climb was!

As climbs go it was pretty!​

These past days I've been finding it difficult to drink and today was no exception, despite sweating loads. I stopped regularly to sip my water - normally I'd be guzzling.

At the top I pulled into a bus stop to eat my celebratory apple, then headed off again.
I took it easy not wanting to get too cold but still flew into Comitán.

Now this is how to announce yourself!​

There's no shortage of hotels and Booking.com delivered a real bargain in the centre so I turned off the main road.
Whoah!!!
This is a steep little town! At one stage one of the streets was so steep there was only a pushing option!
I detoured via the Plaza and fell a little in love.
So, so different from San Cristobal, and for my money, so much nicer. I sat in the Plaza for a little while just soaking up the calmness.
The website had the wrong address, nearly sending me down an impossible hill, but I found the hotel, checked in and almost ran out to explore!

I'm sure I miss lots of things with my haphazard approach to planning, but in my defence I'm much rather the tingle of excitement that a view like this inspires! It had me rushing off to my hotel to drop my gear and go explore!​

I'm sure this is a tourist town too (all the hotels point to that) but it has such a different, normal vibe. It's full of "normal" shops selling "normal" things to "normal" people. The sun coming out to shine helped a lot too!

There are some wonderful views of long, narrow streets dropping down and rich, lush green landscape in the background. I found these views captivating.

People were more prone to smile here than they have been for a while. The Plaza was full of children playing, smiling and laughing - always good to generate a pleasant atmosphere.
I had a good wander and explore, had some simple food and back for a shower and an early night. I was very, very tired.

Here's a weird thing. It was only today that the penny dropped with me that I am leaving México! All of my focus was on where I was going, not where I was leaving.

Follow the spire......​

Chat? Yes Please!
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//

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, June 17, 2021, Comitan to Ciudad Cuauhtémoc 83km Total KM 1657

Min meters 604, Max Meters 1667
Total Climb 429 Total Descent 1282
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35
Ave Temp 26

Breaking for the Border

Despite having an internal room (warm & stuffy) I was awoken at about 4 am by rain pounding on the bathroom skylight. And again at 6. Uh oh.

About 8 I got up, still raining, but not as heavy, and went for a wander. Wet. Wet. Wet.
Back in the room I packed up and then went for breakfast. Still raining!

I loaded the bike outside - a tricky job on such a steep hill - donned my raingear and set off. I took a meandering route back to the main road trying to avoid the worst of the steep descents and climbs - narrow streets, heavy traffic, crazy steep sections, rain and a loaded bike do not make for a fun combination! Let's not forget the road engineering too, designed to accommodate all that rain! Drains more akin to cattle grids were common.

On a day like today you gotta look for the beauty wherever you can find it!​

The main road through town was interesting - busy, dodgy surfaces, homicidal collectivos, flooding but I was soon on the edge of town and using a shoulder.

The rain was ok but it was cool - Gizmo settling down to 20C. A busyish 4 lane road was not exactly inspiring and the constant rolling hills kept me warm. I settled in for a pretty dull day.

I stopped at the last Oxxo (possibly my last one!) for a coffee after about 15km and at the crest of a hill. The rain had all but stopped but with a descent ahead I kept my raingear on.

I lost my shoulder for the descent which made it all the more interesting! Guardless drops kept me away from the edge, impatient oncoming overtakers pushed me back over!
At one stage I was overtaken by an articulated truck that was itself being overtaken by another articulated truck on the brow of a hill with a blind bend following. It's a nightmare for me that an accident will occur during one of these manoeuvres. Usually there is no cellphone coverage between towns to call for help.

I was above the clouds for a while then dropped through them. The countryside was very green, a lush healthy green that I could smell. There were very few safe places to stop for a photo.

Then, below the clouds I saw this:

To my way of thinking and sense of direction that's Guatemala after the plain!

I don't know if it was the sight of the next country or the extremely sharp hairpins but the road seemed to come to life!
It wasn't the kind of road for just letting go - in fact it required a lot of care.
Walls of rock and cliffs gave way to trees as I dropped down.
Turning a bend I saw the flashing lights of a Police car and a lot of people. A truck carrying sacks of cement had rolled over trying to join the road and the cab had been entirely squashed into a rain gulley. I just kept going and was passed moments later by an ambulance rushing to the scene.
I have never seen as many accidents as I have here in México.

There be dragons! As excited as I was to be entering a new country my anxiety was growing to match it. There are only so many times I can read "Do not travel" before it has an effect.​

All too soon it was over and I was dumped out on the plain about 800 meters above sea level. Hot!! 30C and humidity you could bottle. But a shoulder again!

Flat and dry but hot and humid!​

I pulled in and ditched the rain gear and set off again into a headwind.
Thank the Touring Gods for headwinds! It kept me cool. (If I ever do make it to Argentina I can pretty much guarantee that I won't be writing such a sentence!)

I was belting out a decent pace and enjoying myself even if the landscape wasn't so inspiring. Then I came across a sign for Guatemala and that put a big smile on my face.
Regularly spaced little settlements reminded me that some food wouldn't go amiss so I pulled in with 25km to go. The sun even came out while I ate!

My first sign for Guatemala!​

I took a decent break after the food not wanting to upset my internals too much. Once out of the shade the temperature had risen so I was glad to be moving again and into the wind.

I got occasional glimpses of mountains in the distance, a vivid and deep blue against the grey clouds. About 3km from Ciudad Cuauhtémoc I lost my shoulder, the road turned to crap and I could feel random drops of rain. A race was not what I wanted!

Mother Nature closing in on me​

So I didn't!
With a narrow road and no shoulder Nature seemed to be trying to envelop me. There were interesting trees and some flowering bushes. It's such a contrast to the scene that greeted me 18 months ago when I crossed from Texas into a desert!

Ciudad means city and this ain't no city!!
I pulled into the only hotel - where Andy Peat (CGOAB) stayed. Oh dear Lord! Probably the worst place I've stayed!
(Captain Hindsight says: There's a newer hotel further along the road!)

Tomorrow, the plan is to get up, cross the border (hopefully!), buy some currency and head on into Guatemala. I don't have many choices, there only being one road for a while, but that road is officially labeled as the Pan American - a road synonymous with biking to Argentina. Hell, synonymous with all kinds of travel through the Americas! In my mind, it's a road that says "Adventure". And I'm going to be riding on it!!
(Mex 190 which I've been on for a while is officially named Carratera Internacional and I've seen it on one map as the Pan American).
As excited as I am to pedal on such an iconic road I'll probably be hopping off it at the first opportunity. It heads for the coast and I want to avoid that. I'm seeing lots of mountains in my future!

All this climbing is taking it out of me, but I prefer it to the excessive heat/humidity combo. The bonus is that sometimes I get to travel down a road like this!​

I honestly don't know how far I am going to go.
If Guatemala is unpleasant I'm prepared to turn around. Reentry to México is straightforward and I'll get another 6 month permit.
El Salvador, I believe, won't let me in but the other countries will, Covid test permitting.
Honduras and Nicaragua are a bit intimidating. I can stay in mountains in Honduras but Nicaragua has me back on the coast. Ditto Costa Rica and Panama. Hot! Humid!
The boats I had been hoping to utilise to cross to Colombia are still out of action.
Logistically, even if I can continue to cross borders I'm going to be hitting Peru at the wrong time, weatherwise.
In a perfect world I'll get to Panama, catch a plane to Chile and continue from there.
But this ain't a perfect world and Panama is a long, long way away.
I'll just have to take each day as it comes.

I'm nervous about tomorrow but I tell myself that if I give in to my fears I won't get to see views like this​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, June 18, 2021, Ciudad Cuauhtémoc to the far side of Colotenango 57km Total KM 1714

Min meters 690, Max Meters 1557
Total Climb 1311 Total Descent 379
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 39
Ave Temp 28

Bienvenido a Guatemala. Fantasyland.

Hot water they said! Pffffft!

I had an unsettled night's sleep and woke regularly. Then overslept.
I'd planned to brew up some coffee but scrapped that and hit the road. After being offered my morning marijuana by one of the staff.

The Mexican immigration office is in the town and that was a simple stamp and return my immigration page.
Then it was a steep climb through fantasyland with low clouds, mist and mountains appearing and disappearing. Beautiful!

Carlsberg don't do borders......
I felt like I was on a magical mystery tour

(A reference to an ad campaign that was far too long ago!)
​

In the context of heading for the border of a new country?
Inspirational!
The sun even started to make an appearance!

It was at this point, still in México with the sun shining, fantasyland all around me that my smiles kicked my nervousness' ass!​

​

The Guatemalan border was in a town too, La Mesilla. A friendly local pointed me to where I had to go. The very pleasant lady behind the counter directed me next door for the Covid formalities - check my test result, take my temperature and make lots of notes. Back next door and I was done before I knew it!
90 days. As far as I understand that's for Honduras and El Salvador too and possibly Nicaragua.
Inside and outside the offices are information posters for migrants, even migrant children.
In one it talks of a right to return and that the government will help without discrimination.
Another, for kids who can't stay where they are sets out practical advice such as memorising phone numbers of family and friends, of writing down their route and taking note of what Government offices can help them and where they are.
The fact is that I could easily cross over and back from Mexico to Guatemala and back again without ever once having to show my passport. Someone who doesn't stand out as an obvious foreigner would have even less problems.

Crazytown!​

Back at the bike a man I'd spotted earlier approached to change money. No messing around and now I have to get to grips with a whole new currency.

I walked through the chaos that is La Mesilla, basically steep streets lined with stores selling clothes and electronics. Crazy, even early in the morning.
Yet, every now and then I was offered a glimpse through an alley of rich green nature, so close I could almost touch it.
I was hungry but there were no places where I could eat and keep the bike under observation so I continued on out and up. There are quite a few villages along the way. I don't think I'm going to starve!

There was a shoulder, gratefully used as I climbed higher. It disappeared for a long descent through dense greenery. In one village I spotted a food place and dropped in for some breakfast.

Outside La Mesilla, before the descent. Nerves? What nerves??​

A delightful lady offered things to accompany my eggs all accepted by me and when I was finished told me to rest as long as I wanted.

My descent soon petered out and now I was climbing again, sans shoulder. Interesting! There was a string of villages and traffic could be hairy.
Repurposed US style school buses decked out in vivid colours and names barrelled along. Today, it was fun and interesting but I know that impression will change!

A brief infatuation, I fear!​

The temperature rose through the day and I was feeling it in my head.
I pulled in at a little store to top up my water - I'm guzzling again.
Edgar came over for a chat. A carpenter by trade he wants to learn English and wanted my number for that! Instead, I told him about Duolingo so out with his phone, download the app and then he wanted me to help him with the test they do to check your proficiency! I got rolling again!

It seems like I'm in a different world. A green, mountainous world.
I'm not seeing anything I haven't seen before in terms of plants or trees or mountains, it's just that there is a density and a proximity that increases the impact.

A green, mountainous world. ​

I stopped again at a little store in the shade for an ice cream and met Christian, a 10 year old with lots of questions. He was helping his brother packing sticks into bags and when the work was over the conversation began.
Confident, uninhibited and genuinely curious he was very engaging. Then he ran off to get his English homework so I could help him.
That was fun!
We started with the alphabet, me pointing to a letter and he having to say it in English. Then I'd ask for an English word with that letter. He said he didn't know any and I'd tease him, asking questions to prompt him to say things like "Baseball" or "Football". I could see the delight in his eyes when he realised he knew more than he thought!
In fairness, his teacher isn't great. Looking ahead in his copy book the examples of words the teacher used were inaccessible and uninspiring for a kid. "S" was scale, as in to climb, "F" for feather (but "B" wasn't for bird!)
I shouldn't have stayed so long but I was enjoying myself immensely. His grandmother was heartily laughing as I was drawing the words out of him.

Passing through a village​

I set off again, still climbing. I was following an angry, brown river that was rushing down a twisty, narrow valley. I'd climb, drop, then climb again, constantly rising.
After marvelling at the quality of the road at the start, my opinion soon changed as it became quite poor. The dreaded topes didn't make an appearance until later and they're worse than in Mexico because they are broken up and quite dangerous on a loaded bike.

I had no destination in mind since I had no idea how long the border crossing would take but the further one, Huehuetenango was now out of reach unless I really wanted to push myself. I'm not pushing myself on the first day in a new country!

Rush? Through this? No thank you!​

Then the rain came! Thankfully on the outskirts of a town so I pulled in for some (sheltered) grilled corn on the cob and a pleasant chat with a young fella. Colotenango had a couple of "Love Hotels" which looked iffy when I cycled past but there was an outdoor swimming complex the far side of town that IOverlander said allowed camping. I'd try that.
All I had to do was get through town.
Chaos! Gridlock! Craziness on a level not seen in a while!
I could see no obvious cause but there were three lanes of traffic on a two lane road! All going nowhere!
Safer walking, I was skipping between cars, trucks and buses when a man on a motorcycle started talking to me. He clearly wanted to practise his English but I was struggling to understand as I tried to avoid getting squashed. He offered me a place to stay at his home which I was delighted to accept until he said it was 40km away. I didn't have 40km in my legs and the rain, stopped for the moment, was going to return. He wanted to ride home then return to pick me up. I couldn't accept that! In the end we got separated in the traffic, an aggressive bus sending me scrambling off the road, he having to move on or be hit.

Before the rain, the traffic, the fumes, the chaos there was this.....​

While catching my breath in front of a pickup stuck on the wrong side of the road the driver hopped out, handed me two bananas and wished me a good journey!
In fact, that crazy traffic was a bonus for a cyclist because I got lots and lots of positive messages, waves, toots, smiles and even wolf whistles - from women! It's been a while since I smiled so much!

Still in the traffic I came to the baths, rolled in, found an employee to be told no camping!

Back on the road again my next option was a Love Hotel. "The Memory of Love" AutoHotel no less!
The lady who checked me in is a delight, showing me how I can park the bike, pull down the shutter and all is safe. My room is actually downstairs. A few minutes later she's knocking at the internal door to give me a big, bright wooly blanket! I'm guessing she realised I have no-one to keep we warm!
My room is past its best, but it's home for tonight. The rain is pishing down but I have mirrors to each side, at each end and above my bed!
Me? I'm more interested in the fact that I have hot water! Jeez but I'm getting old!

I was quite apprehensive about today. Not knowing what lay in store at the borders, possibly leaving the bike unattended (it was never out of my sight), changing money on the street and all the current warnings about the border area.
In reality? It was a waste of (negative) energy!
My only quibble is that I haven't seen a "Pan American" roadsign! For some reason I want a photo.

Guatemala is going to be tough, there's no doubt about that. But there's a reward.
The landscape is from a fantasy. The people, so far, are genuine and helpful, friendly too.
Give me a road here where I'm not having to constantly focus and there's no limit to where this place will bring me!

Feck me! I'm in Guatemala! ​

(So good I include it twice)


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Saturday, June 19, 2021, Colotenango to Huehuetenango 35km Total KM 1749

Min meters 1531, Max Meters 1909
Total Climb 562 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 25

Another land of smiles!

You know, there's a lot to be said for a mirror over the bed! I didn't get to experience it until the morning when I got up for a pee, turned on the light and went back to bed. It has potential to be a lot of fun! With someone else of course!

I was in no great rush this morning for two reasons - it was raining and I didn't have too far to go. On top of that I could hear lots of traffic on the road. Despite sleeping well I was tired, too.

I got up and brewed some coffee in the parking area and enjoyed my first cup as the rain stopped and I was watching the river roaring past the back of the motel.

The river rushing past in the morning. The fields opposite are productive, to the right and up there is a church high on the hill and the corrugated structure covers the stairs of the neighbouring room. The rain makes an interesting noise on those! This is not a part of the world to travel in if you enjoy peace and quiet!​

Then it was pack time. In the middle of packing there was a gentle knock on the internal door and a different little old lady enquired if I had slept well! I can't remember the last time anyone asked me that in a hotel! Some questions about my trip, again, a genuine interest and she left me to finish packing.

I can't eat in the morning these days. That's not like me. Normally I can shovel away a big bowl of porridge and then some. Given that I was hungry falling asleep last night it's a little odd.

So I set off again, uphill again, but at least it was cool and dry. Traffic was heavy, but tended to be grouped together. Oftentimes it was better to pull off the road when a convoy headed by an old truck was moving up behind me.

There was a string of villages along the way. Usually, a few mechanics/stores along the road, the actual village being above the road - often with a precipitously steep road up. Rope bridges were common across the river allowing people to walk to the road or to the village.
Before this road was built this must have been a very isolated spot!

The sun starting to peek out as I pass through a village. There are a lot of uncompleted buildings, larger than in México, that people seem to be working on and living in. I saw one young fella sifting gravel through a large, homemade sieve to separate sand to mix with cement. That'll explain the slow progress! ​

Those bright buses are losing their appeal already! Get behind one approaching a tope and it will slow right down to get over it then hit the accelerator - a huge, dense, particle filled cloud of black smoke is the result! In a village or town where they stop a lot you really don't want to be behind them!

I have to take my hat off to the operators of the AutoHotels here. They may not look like much but they are named well! "The Place of Hidden Passions", "The Keys to Ecstasy" and "The Secret of Love" are just some of the names I recall from today.

A monument celebrating Central America. Closed off from the road, but I could easily walk down to it. While setting up the shot a guy on a bike pulled up beside mine. He didn't touch anything but set off as I approached.​

In almost every settlement I received cheers of encouragement and friendly comments often in English. Kids especially. In one or two just sullen looks. Lots of wandering dogs, more nervous of me than me of them. One chase but he was a barker. When the sun came out the dogs took to sleeping, even on a bridge with traffic hurtling along right beside them. It didn't always end well. I saw one small dog being picked apart by evil, black vultures. Up close they really are sinister, ugly beasts

I pulled in for some fried chicken and chips, probably not the healthiest breakfast but it did the trick.

I was higher now and the river was less swollen, less angry. Then, rising over one crest I was in open farmland. After that it was up and down with not much altitude gain.

A rope bridge to allow pedestrians cross the river. There were quite a few of these today. Alternatively, there were steep, zigzagging stairs leading from the road up to some houses. Not for the faint of heart or the inebriated!​

I turned off for Huehuetenango and immediately hit traffic. Slow, heavy traffic. Still before noon I was in no rush. I was headed optimistically for the Plaza where I hoped to grab some wifi and check out accommodation options.

It seems like the entire centre is a huge street market and is not for the claustrophobic. I eventually made it to the Plaza, a disappointment, and hooked into some free wifi but it wouldn't work. Nothing for it but to go wandering.
I found a hotel, decent price, very pleasant check in lady, dropped my gear and headed out for a wander. No doubt it will rain at some stage so I'll make the most of the dry!

I stopped gaining height (but still had ups and downs) and the land became more user friendly.​

Guatemalan Plazas ain't nothing like Mexican ones! I wandered around weaving between traffic, stalls and sleeping dogs. Crazy! Not a place for relaxing.
I wandered to a coffee museum thinking it was a museum about coffee……
It had old TVs, radios, cameras, record players and coffee. So I had one.
Then wandered around some more.

There are some ruins outside of town but the thoughts of facing in to all that traffic craziness was too much. I am a bad tourist. Instead I returned to my hotel and caught up with this - even suffering a power cut!

More traffic gridlock! To the right is a rain gulley about half a meter deep. Fall in there and you'll know all about it!​

A bite to eat later and I was ready for bed.

The Hotel kindly provided me with a copy of the New Testament! I haven't seen that in a long long time!

Yep! I went down here on a loaded bike!​

There's a big American influence here. La Mesilla had lots of "American Clothes" stores and to be fair they were different in colour (more bland) and style (brand names) than what I have being seeing.
"American" can be a sensitive adjective in México. To Europeans America is the USA and Americans celebrate the 4th of July. But they're North Americans to the Americans of Central and Southern America and México.
I didn't pay too much attention in La Mesilla but on entering the chaos that is Huehuetenango I was hit with Wendy's and Taco Bell. I nearly fell off my bike seeing Taco Bell! That's like taking an American version of an Irish Pub and plonking it down in Ireland. No local is going to go!
The final piece of the puzzle fell into place when I bought some more electrolytes - each sachet to be dissolved in 8oz of water. What the feck is 8oz of water????
(About ¼ liter as it turns out). I thought they were metric here.

The Cathedral beside the Plaza.​

Another quirk - they're an hour behind México! It was my phone that told me that. It's not a particularly significant issue (I struggle to recall what day it is!) but it does explain why the Covid lady at the border was just getting organised when I offered her my cheerful Buenos Días!

Now this I really appreciated! A relief map of the State I'm currently in.​

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Sunday, June 20 2021, Huehuetenango to Cuatro Caminos 77km Total KM 1826

Min meters 1707, Max Meters 2805
Total Climb 1571 Total Descent 1104
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 24

Never a dull moment on the Pan American!

Going to sleep I started having doubts about where I was going. The plan was to hit Quetzaltenango and then down to Lake Atitlán. Another big town and then a lake! I like water what's wrong with that?
Well, a few places along the shore are backpacker haunts and frankly I had enough of that in San Cristobal. Also, another big Guatemalan town doesn't inspire me.
So, when I woke up I decided to stop short at a place where I had alternatives - Cuatro Caminos, the place of Four Roads fit the bill.

It rained a lot of the night but had stopped by the time I got up. The sky looked ugly, though.

I set off and despite the light traffic there was still chaos. Near the junction with the main road I encountered a truck heading the wrong way on a dual carriageway!

The offending truck! Scared the bejaysus out of me and sent me scurrying to the side.

​

And then the heavens opened! Thankfully there was a filling station with café that gave me shelter and caffeine. Setting off again I donned my rain jacket. I had a quick descent, the sun came out and the perfect bridge (and view) to stop and remove my jacket. It must be the Irish in me but a bit of sunshine always lifts my spirits. Ahead of me was all uphill!

This is the spot I stopped and removed my rain gear. When there was no traffic it was peaceful and calm, reminding me a lot of an Alpine Valley

​

You'd think that not having a shoulder would be my biggest issue facing in to a long climb but the road itself was - when it was there!
There were several sections with no surface, just sand, mud, rocks and water filled potholes. These varied in length from about 20 to 500 meters. Great fun!

I expect to encounter surfaces like this - just not on the main artery through the Americas!

​

At times this only affected the other side sending that traffic onto my side. Not such great fun!
And once, a part of the road had fallen into the valley below! No fun at all given how little warning was given and I wondered what it looked like at night!

Another high point on the scare scale! What's amazing to me is the lack of warning in advance and the complete absence of any lights or even reflective materials.

​

It was slow going but in fairness some of the views were spectacular! I'd read that the Pan American in Guatemala was dead on Sundays - not this Sunday! Traffic was in packs and not always bike friendly. I saw way too many crazy overtakes and more than once rode into the ditch to avoid some of the crazy.

For a little while I had a climbing lane so pulled in to relax a bit. Eduardo in a MTB was coming up behind and stopped for a chat. He was sweating more than me!

I stopped at a little Comedor for a lunch of tacos and coffee from a very pleasant young woman. While there, a large truck, rig only, pulled up. Always a good sign when professional drivers choose the same place to eat.
Two rear axles, four wheels on each giving eight tyres in total, none matching. Two were bald to the wires. Four were just bald. And two had thread. Scary!

Stopping for a moment to appreciate this can calm the nerves, though.

​

Zig zagging my way up I heard the sound of a choir across the valley! When I finally made it around the church was way above me but I could still hear it as I looped around again.

​

Fear, anxiety, call it what you will is a funny thing. A couple of days ago I was quite anxious about travelling in the border area. My anxiety wouldn't let me eat in La Mesilla because there were no places to park my bike in sight. Today, in the middle of nowhere three guys plus chainsaw pulled up opposite me on a motorbike. One hopped off and disappeared into the bushes where he started to climb up to an almost hidden house. His two friends greeted me cheerily and set off again.
Later, resting, two men carrying machetes hopped over the guardrail opposite and made a beeline towards me. One greeted me cheerfully and they both climbed the uneven steps cut into the rock to a house above me. Not for the first time I had to remind myself that traffic represents the greatest risk to me ….. and my imagination!

A mountain village

​

I knew I'd eventually have a descent but the road was fecking with my head with a few false summits.
Eventually, though, I was finished with the big climb and started to descend through tall pine trees. Just to make sure I couldn't enjoy it fully my descent was accompanied by thunder! And the ocassional steep climb that had me swearing.

Looking to my right and my destination the weather looks fine, but sweeping in straight ahead of me is a nasty, evil, rain soaked cloud of doom!​

There were some spectacular views of volcanoes and a valley far below me and even a waterfall on the opposite side. Beautiful!

Volcanoes! When the sun is shining this really is a beautiful place!

​

Coming up to the hotel there were some serious roadworks taking place but I made it. Cheap, so the wifi doesn't work and the "hot" water is icy cold.
I ran out to grab some food and had another early night.

Thinking during the day I decided to skip Quetzaltenango and Lake Atitlán. I picked out a camping option in a forest on iOverlander and then close by a large park with camping options for the next day (It's not open on Mondays).
I'm happy for two reasons;
First to be back in the tent Yaaaay!
Second to be taking a bit of time to actually stop and smell the roses. Both days combined are only about 60km! Yaaaaay!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Monday, June 21 2021, Cuatro Caminos to Near 150km marker 40km Total KM 1866

Min meters 2351, Max Meters 3028
Total Climb 926 Total Descent 768
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 22

Guatemala: Weatherwise it's like two countries in one!

It rained a lot of the night. I woke up at 5 and thought about getting up. It was easier to fall back asleep so I did.

I got up and got packed in brilliant sunshine and I wondered if the heat would make me regret my sleep in. I wasn't too worried as my destination was only about 45km away.

I stopped at a Comedor just down from the hotel for a delicious breakfast of eggs and coffee made by a mother and daughter team. Then I set off into the chaos of the roadworks.
The road I wanted was closed but I squeezed past the truck blocking it and soon was on a dual carriageway heading up. And up. 330 meters in the first 6km! That'll wake me up!

Getting through the roadworks was fun! They're building a flyover to replace my road. It's not finished yet, so there is only one "lane" of mud and rocks. No traffic lights, nobody directing traffic - just a free for all!

​

I was in good form. I was hoping to camp tonight in a forest, a tip from iOverlander. About 45km away but with a climb breaking the 3000 meter peak. Slow and steady was the game.

The roadworks from further back. The main road (so main they're building a flyover!) was blocked on the far side. Not a hint orca trace of a diversion sign and no obvious way for a vehicle to get on it! In NL they put up diversion signs (and usually special routes) just for bikes!

​

Even with two lanes I had to be careful of the traffic. At one stage a truck pulled into the "fast" lane to overtake me but Captain Impatient undertook him scaring the bejaysus out of me.

I stopped at a filling station and had a cold drink, a rest and some delicious coconut sweets.

The sky in these parts is always changing. Clouds shade the landscape in one area while the sun highlights another. The landscape can change dramatically as clouds move across. Black clouds threaten and at one stage today Gizmo dropped from 32C to 22C when a big cloud blocked out the sun.

Scary clouds moving in! Behind me the sun was blazing!

​

I figured I had about 18km of climbing before dropping down again. When the descent came it was shrouded in mist and over way too soon. The road surface was poor too. Is that a bit of tar or a pothole? There was no letting go!
In these moments my head always flies back to The Devil's Backbone and how thrilling that was. How lucky was I to enjoy such perfect conditions!

*Handy hint. I have a pair of "yellow" sunglasses. In the swirling mist they gave me almost perfect visibility!

Just at the top the mist starts swirling around. Time to stop, don my rain gear (it's cold!), turn on all my lights and brave the descent

​

With about 15km to go I stopped for a bite in a little town and as I headed off again the thunder rolled. As I left the last buildings of the town behind the heavens opened. This rain stings! Spying a building with an overhang I bounced over the wasteland and got settled to wait out the rain.

It's amazing how much water falls in such a short time. Standing under an overhang I was dry for about five minutes then the water built up on the ground and as the raindrops hit the ever wetter ground water started splashing back at me.
The road wasn't much different resembling a river with speedboats after about 10 minutes. Trucks and buses sent spray flying in front of then when they hit the mini rivers flowing across the road.

The thunder has to be heard to be believed! So loud! So angry! So powerful!

Earlier and drier! On the way up

​

All in all I was stuck for about an hour. I was now under pressure because my camping option closed at 5 giving me an hour to get there. I set off under a blue sky but that changed soon to grey and more rain followed. Camping was suddenly less exciting. When I could see ahead all I could see was cloud. It was going to be a miserable night.

The hills around here are from sand or rock. There are many, many sections along the road that are being dug out, presumably to make blocks or gravel and sand for building. Obviously, this means lots of sand, gravel and rocks on the road and after heavy rain the shoulder downhill (if it exists) is full of mud. Also, I've seen big diggers working in crazy positions at crazy heights. This rock formation caught my eye

​

Obviously I take far less photos in the rain. My camera is still suffering the consequences of rain a few weeks ago and my phone goes haywire if it gets wet. However, at different points on those last few kms when I could see the valley to my right I just had to risk it. Little puffs of cloud seemed to have been snagged in the steep valley walls. Beautiful!

It's bizarre! This photo was taken in the rain! In front it's gloom and wet, to my right blue and dry! I was charmed by the clouds "caught" in the trees

​

The turnoff for the park I wanted to visit on Tuesday was before my IOverlander spot so I kept my eyes open for options before there.
I knew there was an AutoHotel ahead so I pulled in. Way too dear! I continued on and happened across a hotel/restaurant more in my price range. Soaked, I took a room, had a hot shower (yaaay!) and then into the restaurant for some fried rice. It's a Chinese place - lots of Chinese shops and restaurants here. The TV was on and the main story was all the damage the heavy rain is doing! They had a clip of a car sinking under the water and roads washed out. It's still raining as I write this.

And I wanted to camp again tomorrow!

It gets cold here at night so I took to my bed early. Still awake my bed started shaking for about 5 seconds. On the ground floor with no passing traffic (I could hear it all) there was only one explanation - Earthquake! It was over before I could react and there were no alarms. Of course not - I'm on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere!

It didn't stop me sleeping!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, June 22 2021, Near 150km marker to Chui Rax Amolo Ecological Park 6 km Total KM 1872

Min meters 2484, Max Meters 2638
Total Climb 926 Total Descent 768
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 26

Camping in the clouds!

I am quite literally sitting in the middle of a gently floating cloud writing this. It's blocking out some spectacular views but what a feeling! Tomorrow I can see the views, today my head (and the rest of me) is in the clouds!

With no external source of light I was a bit disoriented when I woke up this morning. When I went outside to bright, blazing sun in a blue sky and perfect white clouds floating by it was genuinely hard to believe that I was in the same place as yesterday!

I was in no rush so brewed up some coffee in my room (lots of natural ventilation) and slowly got organised.

Even the smallest of villages here seem to suffer from traffic chaos, especially at junctions

​

I set off back the way I came to the turnoff a couple of hundred meters along and began to pass through a series of little villages all seemingly joined together.

I stopped off for some brekkie at a little roadside spot and did a bit of shopping. I'll be cooking for myself tonight. A half dozen eggs in a plastic bag will be fun to transport! Not as much fun as asking for them! "Huevos", eggs, can also refer to my sensitive parts and my pronunciation caused much confusion with the two ladies looking after me. I think it may be an accent thing, but there I was happily practising my "huevos" in a little shop until the laughing ladies gave me their approval!

Here's a piece of information not normally found in bike blogs; Cigarettes can be hard to find in Guatemala! Shop after shop either said no or sent me to each other, a kind of circular hell for nicotine addicts. Finally I found some!

There were some really steep sections (16 - 20%) on the road not helped by a drinks delivery truck that kept pulling in ahead of me and stopping. I'd stop behind it, panting and getting lungfuls of fumes!

Ever higher and the sky is turning ominous!

​

The higher I got the more the blue sky disappeared to be replaced by dense, grey, sombre cloud.
After a massive 5km(!) I arrived at the park. A man at the gate was very welcoming and friendly - not in an over the top way, just a natural, genuine warmth. He wanted to know what time it was in Ireland!

Right in front of where I set up camp. A little spooky, perhaps, but I was charmed

​

I'm supposed to be able to see the lake (Atitlán) from the gate but all I see is mist and fog. Actually, correct that - cloud. I am in the clouds! He got me a brochure to show me what I'm missing! We both had a good laugh at that.
There's a restaurant and store onsite, a little way down the road with a salon, a hall, that I can camp in. Further down there's a grill area that I can use too. Beyond that again is the official camping area. Basically, I'm welcome to choose where I want.

On the way to my campsite, rough road, steep descent but through the cloud.....​

I continued as far as the restaurant, more views denied me and decided to wait a while to see if the mist will burn off. Not a hope! The salon looks great for indoor camping but I continued down a rough track through mist, slipping and sliding until I found the grill area.
More views - denied!
But what a place! There's a tap for water, two pit toilets a little bit away and a jungle behind me to explore!
Feck the salon - I'm home!
Getting back up that hill with loose gravel, stones and wet sand will be fun! The smart thing would have been to stay in the salon.
I'll worry about tomorrow, tomorrow.

Off wandering on foot in the forest. Only the birds chirping, tweeting and squawking at me - and the odd rustle in the bushes!

​

I parked the bike and set off into the mist once more. I encountered some dogs - more scared of me they ran off - and a couple of landslides. All I could hear was a variety of different birds no doubt calling out to me as is the Guatemalan way.

Up behind me is the end point of a zip line. The first person arrives and all I hear is the sound of the mechanism. Then the second person arrives to one cheering voice. The cheering grows in proportion to the number of zip liners. Lesson learned; Always be the last to do a zip line!
(The one group did the zip line twice - then nothing!)

The park closes at 5 or 6 and after that I'll have it all to myself. Sometimes I think I must be the luckiest b*****d in the world!

I wandered around the forest for a while, a white, wispy sheen of mystery everywhere. The I returned to my book and the view.

I don't know, maybe I should be disappointed that the cloud was blocking out so much, but when it did disperse a little I found the country to be enigmatic, mysterious and dripping atmosphere​

In case anyone came to use the grills I waited until about 5 to put up my tent. As I was doing so two men came over for a chat. At first I thought they worked in the park but they were only visiting.
One of them put me on the phone to his daughter so she could practice her English. I spoke but heard nothing and when I handed the phone back to him I heard some very angry tones and a beep to say the call had ended. I said nothing when he pretended to end the call understanding the embarrassment of both parties.
They were intrigued with my setup wanting a demonstration of my Trangia too. All in all they stayed around for a very pleasant hour then wandered back up saying they had to leave at 6. A relaxed approach to time!

My two visitors. The chap on the left had the irritated daughter, the chap on the right had visited Germany and Israel. It was only after that it dawned on me what an interesting combination of countries he visited! He also wanted to know about Ireland's Political system - Capitalism or Socialism. En Español!

​

The visit left me preparing my dinner in the twilight and eating in the dark. Not a problem. I was treated to a light show as lightning bounced around behind the clouds. No thunder, just eerie lightning. Fabulous!

Back a few years ago when the original incarnation of this adventure floundered on treacherous rocks I was devastated. It was a loss that I found hard to describe.
I mean, places like Charleston, Nashville, Austin could always be reached by plane and car. Let's face it, Texas is so big a car is probably the best way to see it! (Not to feel it, just to see it).
The loss I felt was for the intangibles. The unknowns.
The things I was going to miss that I didn't even know existed.

This afternoon a bit before four, I got to witness one of these intangibles, these unknowns.
For a little while the clouds started to break up and I watched shredded patches of cotton floating effortlessly upwards.

The cloud dissipating and teasing me with what I was missing....

​

Below me shapes and colours started to take form until I could make out a large town on the shores of a great lake and hints of blue sky above.
There, in front of my eyes, Guatemala was revealing herself to me.

Guata-Feckin'-Mala!!

Colours and shapes!

​

Then just as gently the scraps of cotton began to merge and everything was soon lost again behind a soft white wall.

Sometimes I wonder if I'm being smart doing this, especially now in these Pandemic times.

Then I have a day like this.

They say you won't know what you'll miss until it's gone, but sometimes we don't know what we might miss until we go out there and witness what there is to be missed!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, June 23, 2021, Chui Rax Amolo Ecological Park to near Aldea Chajalajya 58 km Total KM 1930

Min meters 2296, Max Meters 2695
Total Climb 1053 Total Descent 1059
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 17

​

I wonder what the Romans would have done in Guatemala? Fine roadbuilders, they built roads that rarely lost height once gained. That's not the case in Guatemala!

Leaving my camping spot behind and facing into hike-a-bike fun! I gave serious thought to staying another day but even at an early hour the clouds were closing back in. I'd have another day of staring at white.​

The wind was whispering to me as I was going to bed. There was no-one else for miles around so it had to be to me. I woke at some stage during the night and heard absolutely nothing. Not even the wind. Just … nothing. That doesn't happen often in this part of the world. I debated going out for a wander but it's cold in the mountains in the clouds at night. I snuggled down and slept some more.

At 5:30 my eyes popped open and I immediately threw on some clothes and went out. I was right! Today was the day for views!

​

I brewed a leisurely coffee and watched the colours of the dawn fade away. I was in no rush - I was locked in!

​

I set off up the crazy hill, slipping and sliding the whole way. When I wasn't stopped to catch my breath, that is. Not once did I regret my camping spot.

Back at the restaurant I met my gatekeeper from yesterday. Great! I could get away early! I thanked him for his hospitality and complimented the park - it really is magical.

Before I left I climbed up to a Mayan altar and was surprised to find a man and woman tidying it up and a girl too. We had a little chat and I took in the view.
This is regarded as a sacred place, as is the forest, a place where the Mayan people (or their descendents) hid from the authorities to save their lives. In some cases, more recently than we might think.
The simple altar, decorated with flowers, high on a hill put me in mind of the "Mass Rocks" in Ireland. Secret places, often in forests where people gathered and travelling priests said Mass at a time when such a thing was illegal.

I had a descent back to the Pan American, stopping for a sandwich and coffee. Within spitting distance of the Pan American it started to rain! On with the coat and off I went.

Traffic was heavier than Sunday and with rain, cold and traffic it wasn't shaping up to be a good day. I could make it as long or as short as I wanted, though. To make things interesting I had percussion accompaniment! For the first time in who knows how many times packing up I had left my metal spork beside my flask and the two tapped against each other. At first it scared the bejaysus out of me until I figured out what it was.

I passed my hotel from the other night and after a short climb I was soon flying down again. I passed the spot suggested on IOverlander and it looked very wet!
Then the rain stopped and things started to look brighter.
I came to another chaotic Guatemalan town and the heavens opened!
There's two kinds of rain here. Rain and downpours. This was a downpour. I made a lunge for a comedor, the first one that had seats and a place to park the bike. Two young girls in charge. My (cold) chicken and (cold) rice won't win any prizes but I was out of the rain and some coffee warmed me up.
To pass the time I had a second cup and finally the rain let up.
It's really interesting to me how quickly the roads can develop little rivers when the rain falls and how quickly they disappear after the rain stops.

Rain & Chaos! Another road joined the Pan American here and just added to the traffic.

​

While eating, a truck pulled up outside with an armed (pump action shotgun) guard beside the driver. Later I saw another couple of armed guards. Just when I was starting to feel a bit secure on the road.
Also, while eating a young fella, about 15 I'd say walked past, looked in and saluted me. I responded in kind so that the next moment he's standing beside me, hand out saying "Dinero" (money) and "Quetzals" (the local currency). No please, no chat, just a sullen stare. When I made it clear that I had nothing for him he sat down beside me and gave me a pretty intimidating stare.
I've given quite a bit to people in these parts, usually buying something or at least after a chat. I haven't had this before.
After a few minutes he got up and left.

Then the weather changed!

​

After the rain there's the sun! Really, I struggle to believe it's the same place at times! There were some ups and downs, some fantastic views and then a long 10km climb straight up!
Despite the presence of a shoulder it wasn't very pleasant. The shoulder was regularly out of use and some of the traffic was obnoxious. I did a lot of swearing. In several languages.
I passed one hotel but it looked a bit swanky and I was still going up. I'd rather not start off with a climb tomorrow.

When the sun shines, or at least it's not raining, there's a quality to the landscape that I can't quite put my finger on. There's history and power, struggle and great beauty all around. And Volcanoes just keep reminding me that I'm in another world

​

After the top I passed another hotel and turned around. There's a town down the road but I'm starting to develop a dislike for Guatemalan towns. Crazy traffic and no decent plazas to sit and watch. Manic would be an apt description.

I checked in - no hot water so another cold shower and the Wifi is not working! Bah!!!!!

No view like this either!

​

I want to get online to figure out where to next - Antigua or Guatemala city. One thing was made clear last night. My trusty Thermarest is knackered. The "bubble" is getting bigger and bigger, more like a pillow - but in the wrong place. I emailed Thermarest about it several weeks ago and have heard nada. Looks like I need a new sleeping pad. These are the last two big cities where I may be able to get one. To make it more interesting, I've just watched a news report from Antigua where a car was stuck in a pothole in heavy flooding. Some men helped the driver to push it out. The driver got out to inspect the damage and promptly disappeared up to his shoulders!
Oh to be back in the clouds!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

I had a bit of an incident today that resulted in the loss of my phone.

For anyone who knows me in the real world my WhatsApp isn't going to work any more and my Dutch number is out of action.
Facebook (Hobbes on Tour) is still good.

Normal service should be resuming shortly.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, June 24, 2021, near Aldea Chajalajya to Antigua 61 km Total KM 1991

Min meters 1537, Max Meters 2518
Total Climb 388 Total Descent 1313
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

From Bah to Wow!

Bah!
I was grumpy last night going to bed.
When I'd arrived at the hotel I was quoted a rate of Q75 - cheap. When I went to pay I was charged Q100 - explained by the fact that I was checking in early. (Not a Love Hotel, but the same principle, it seems).
The ladies were nice and I figured I wouldn't do much better in town.
Then the cold shower.
Then no Wifi
Then a disappointing dinner in the restaurant - half the menu was unavailable.
Then no TV (I rarely watch tv but there was music playing from a speaker right over my door).
Then a plastic sheet on the matress (with just a light cover over it) to give me a slippy, slidy, crinkly and uncomfortable night's sleep.
No comparison to 24 hours ago!

The locals in these parts are quite industrious. It seems that any land that can be used to grow crops is - no matter how difficult. It seems that most work is done by hand - often a family affair. At times there are clear demarcations between sections which leads me to believe that it's lots of individuals as opposed to a larger farmer.

​

I got up about 6:30 and set about making coffee.
Without Internet Google Maps can't search except for what is already saved. Searching for "Internet" or "cyber" brought up nothing. Then I used "coffee" (automatically saved when I downloaded the map) and lo and behold up popped a cyber cafe about 40km down the road!
Intermediate destination #1!

Little villages dot the landscape. At times far away, at others right beside the road. There's a tendency for them to merge together giving a long sequence of tyre exchanges, garages, shops and places to eat.

​

I set off under blazing sunshine and blue skies. Mainly downhill with some climbing.
I'm not enjoying the cycling. I'm finding the traffic to be inconsiderate. Uncomfortably so.
Whereas before it was commonplace for traffic to overtake in the "fast" lane here they usually don't bother, or if they do someone behind undertakes them while overtaking me.
This sends me into the shoulder and that presents its own challenges; sand, gravel, rocks and tree branches not to mention excess water - is that a bit of water or a pothole filled with the stuff?
Similarly, blockages on the shoulder are not uncommon,whether rocks or vehicles. Taking the lane in plenty of time to get past, traffic from behind often waits until the last moment to avoid me. No need. Just inconsiderate.
Add in the horn blowing and I can feel the stress mounting.
There's a large tendency here for people to use their horn with me. I rarely detect any malice, either a warning or support, but it's the tone, timing and frequency that bugs me.
It's not a gentle toot that says I'm coming up behind you it's a blast normally starting at about my rear wheel. The blast can continue or change into short rapid blasts.
I've no doubt it's meant as a friendly gesture but it does get irritating after a while and at times is bloody dangerous.
More than once the intensity of the horn, especially on a bend has sent me off the road.
In many ways it's just like the automobile version of people calling out to me or whistling as I cycle past.

I have found my spiritual home! Any place that erects a statue to Cowboy Boots is my kind of place!

​

Several times yesterday and today I found myself pulling in to remind myself that I'm in Guatemala, that things are bound to be different and that this is what I wanted to experience. Unfortunately, in the back of my mind is the sinister voice reminding me that Guatemala is nowhere near the worst for traffic!

Breakfast was in the first town I came to - a fancier looking place than usual - chosen because it might have wifi. It didn't but it did have the best meal I've had in a while! I could sit and see and hear the craziness on the road. Feck it! I had that second cup of coffee!😀

I set off again in better form. The sun was shining, the temperature was high but a hefty wind was keeping me cool. I reminded myself more than once that I was in no rush and tried to focus on where I was rather than what was rushing up behind me. I had mixed success. I finally came to Chimaltenango and went to the cyber cafe. Or tried to. I missed it and had to loop around again (one way traffic on narrow streets). Stopped at a junction checking Google Maps not one but two people stopped to help me! What a pleasant place! I found the cyber cafe on the second pass.
There's a big camping store in Guatemala city and little one in Antigua. Then I had a look for accommodation and found an interesting place on AirBnB with a decent location. An enthusiastic response to my request about a secure place for Roccado.
Then tonight?
I had emailed Maya Pedal at the start of the week. It's an NGO that takes bikes from the US to repair and sell/donate to locals. They also design and build bike machines - pedal powered machines. They also host touring cyclists. Unfortunately, no response to my query.
I thought about staying put and experiencing a Guatemalan town - this one didn't seem too crazy. But then I saw an AirBnB at a bargain price right beside the only camping equipment store in Antigua.
Antigua is notoriously expensive but this seemed too good to pass up.
So I didn't!
I made a reservation and set off. (On AirBnB a reservation isn't confirmed until the host confirms). I wasn't too worried, I'd already had a message that there was place for Roccado.

Going through the town, away from the main road it was busy and chaotic, Guatemalan chaotic being different to Mexican chaotic. There's a hard edge to it here.

​

Leaving town I passed a lovely plaza (the first so far in Guatemala) and had pangs of regret. Then I turned off the Pan American and had a decent shoulder to myself. Lots of downs with some steep ups but the sun was out and it was dry!
Arrival into Antigua was straightforward until I hit cobbles! Damn!
I walked just to soak up the place.

Oooooh! My first proper Plaza in ages!!! I felt really had leaving it behind!

​

Coming to Antigua was not a mistake!

Arriving into a new place first impressions count. It was dry, I was in no rush, I knew where I was going and traffic had slowed down - significantly so on the rough cobbles.

If you don't know, Antigua used to be the Capital of Guatemala but for some reason they got fed up of the earthquakes and relocated to what is now Guatemala City. Tsssss! Guatemalans must be weak - I haven't been put off by earthquakes yet! (That's sarcasm Willy!)
That makes it a very interesting place with ruins all over the place and an existence based on the fact that it is a ghost city.
Ironically, there are volcanoes everywhere - in case earthquakes aren't exciting enough!

Indigenous clothing is very common amongst the women, rarely seen on the men. From behind, it can be very difficult to judge if a female is a women or a girl because of the clothing and the relatively short stature of the folk

​

I got to the hotel and the most pleasant young woman checked me in. I have a lovely room on the ground floor, iffy wifi, about two square meters of patio and hot water! Even better, there is a roof area where I can look over the city - ruins in each direction and in turn be overlooked by volcanoes!
It's rough and ready but a beautiful place in the heart of the city - the main Plaza is just around the corner!
And older gentleman was working up there, pruning plants in pots and moving a mattress for some reason. He made me very welcome and I helped him moving some things around, chatting away.
It may be a sin, but I'm very happy with myself and my Español! It really makes a difference - a big difference - to be able to communicate with people in their own language. It's far, far from perfect, but most people work with me and we get there.

It's a good thing I'm still getting little thrills from seeing volcanoes! The rapidly changing sky can highlight them like here or shroud them in mystery!

​

I showered and wandered out. First stop was the camping store - only cheap Chinese mats. Not sure I can trust them. I'll wait for Guatemala city.
Then exploring!
Fabulous!

There's a calmness here (partly due to all the cobbles - even cars have to go slow and probably a shortage of tourists although they are around.
The Plaza is pretty, green and has lots of seats. Even a band! Stalls are set up around the perimeter, actually, tables with white cloths selling artesenal products. Some lovely stuff. I try to glance as I wander around - knowing I'm not going to buy anything I don't want to raise hopes but a beautiful chess set (a weakness of mine) caused me to stop. Straight away a young woman was in for the sale and wouldn't take no for an answer - in the nicest way! It is a small set

Antigua - bringing the Wow!
I didn't expect to like it and was very pleasantly surprised!

​

I wandered down to the main market as darkness was settling in. These places are always full of life but here I wasn't being called at or badgered.
In fact, thus far I've only been badgered gently, once, when on my way in to the centre on the bike I stopped to take a photo. Immediately a man was beside me offering a hostel with bike parking. When I declined explaining I had a place it was straight in to offering tours of the Volcanoes. I laughed, pointed to the bike and asked him if I hadn't experienced enough volcanoes! He had the good grace to smile and left me alone.

The Cathedral from the Plaza at night. There's a band playing, people are dancing, kids are playing. Lovely.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Antigua

Antigua was a surprise in all the best ways.

If you ever want to see what an earthquake can do......

​

It's a tourist town but, probably due to Covid it wasn't overwhelmed. Most tourists were Hispanics, the minority foreign and they were split between an older group and the backpacking crowd and they really only made themselves noticeable at night.

My first morning I brewed coffee up on the roof and watched the sun weave its magic on the volcanoes and then the town itself. As a start to the day it's pretty hard to beat.

​

Then it was off to explore. Exploring is easy as the centre wasn't that big. Wandering hither and thither as opposed to racing everywhere. I opted not to look anything up, just discover.

Dawn again......​

My favourite place is the Plaza no matter the time of day. So much to see, to experience.

There's a large market in the town (like most towns) where everything is for sale - including alcohol for my stove.
Outside the market a young man, bathed in sweat was evangelising vigorously!
Most towns now have some kind of Evangelical church, I've seen some Protestant denominations (a surprise to me) but this was my first experience of a preacher in the flesh. Nobody was paying him any mind - except me. When he thought he had a convert and turned towards me I hotfooted it out of there!

In fact,since Oaxaca and especially Chiapas, more indigenous areas, there has been a change in the churches.
They tend to simpler, smaller, less ostentatious. Often a facade disguises a simple building with corrugated metal roof.
Catholicism has adapted in these parts merging the old ways with the imported faith. Chamula, near San Cristobal de las Casas is an example. Rituals involving candles, chickens and coca cola - the perfect blend of religion, sacrifice and commercialism.

Still dawn! And yes, that's the moon!

​

The ruins in the city, though, are truly amazing.
You can see how these great buildings were constructed and also the sheer power of earthquakes

One former Monastery I visited had most of the church intact but the most amazing section of ruins and a museum in honour of Saint Germain Pedro, a Spaniard who arrived in these parts with not much more than an urge to help people.
He failed to qualify as a Priest, nearly went home but stayed, became a brother/monk and set about helping people, especially the sick.
Long dead, he apparently still has healing powers judging by the amount of crutches, braces and other bodily supports donated, with gratitude, in his honour. Walls are filled with plaques from people giving thanks for his intervention.
The poor man died relatively young of pneumonia and the museum proudly displays the gown he died in as well as the mattress cover of his deathbed. And his underwear to leave not a shred of dignity.

I think they rebuilt this Monastery three times after earthquakes..... And then gave up!​

It appears that his remains have been repackaged and moved as his status changed after death.
I left feeling quite sorry for the chap - after dedicating his adult life to helping people his afterlife receives no peace!

Street sellers are everywhere but rarely pushy. One woman, with the most wonderful soft and colourful blanket (I'd have loved it!) asked me point blank why I didn't buy it.
I explained I was traveling by bike and simply had no space. She considered this for a moment, nodded her head as if to say that was a sound reason, wished me a good journey and moved on. Another guy wasn't quite so calm. He was quite agitated that I wouldn't buy a very large whistle from him.
Then, I was amused to be approached by a guy with a collection of Disney characters, each one encased in a clear ball and attached to a lighted pole. These are for kids, or possibly a girlfriend, I thought, and since I'm all out of both I was a bit intrigued. I was disappointed, however, when the hearty call and start of the sales pitch was just a cover to offer drugs. At least he was discreet - in San Cristobal he'd just have called it out across the street.

A single photo really doesn't do a scene justice here. The same building can have a very different impact depending on how you approach it.

​

The second day I took a spin on the bike. Oh, the freedom without the bags! I borrowed a route from RWGPS but kept hitting closed roads so just ended up wandering around.

International Cuisine is well represented in Antigua, even if I exclude the fast food chains. I had a huge Chinese one night and a pretty good (and hot) Indian another. I was interested to see a Belgian restaurant but doubted it's authenticity when I couldn't see mussels and chips on the menu. Then I saw the name; Congo Bongo!

I did have a sad moment in Antigua, though. I passed a Mexican restaurant and it took me half the block to realise that Mexican food is no longer standard!
I'm finding it hard to get a handle on Guatemalan cuisine - most of what I'm seeing is very US based. Therefore disappointing!

Street art from my bike adventure

​

But as always, an abiding memory comes from a small Plaza in front of a church where a laughing little girl set the tone for the whole area. Out with her Papá, she was chasing pigeons, constantly running through a large pack on the ground and her laughs tinkled around in the warm air like music.
Other kids watched but lacked her confidence, rarely taking more than a single step.
On closer observation, I discovered that herself and Papá were working in tandem!
Papa had a bag of seed and was keeping the pigeons coming in so that she'd have lots to run through!

With all that Antigua had to offer that was my favourite scene.

Yes! That volcano is smoking! The boring part of me did wonder what insurance is like in these parts - smoking volcanoes and a history of earthquakes!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/