The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Sunday, May 23, 2021, San Agustín Etla to Oaxaca City, 22km, Total KM 819
Min meters 1556, Max Meters 1692
Total Climb 52 Total Descent 163
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 43
Ave Temp 35


It was never going to be the most challenging of days, a short ride into Oaxaca, my next city for a bit of exploration. As things turned out I was glad it was a short day.

Nazareth Funerals - my first thought was do the dead rise up on the third day?​

I love sleeping in a tent! There's something primitive and basic about it that appeals. I remember as a kid playing in a tent in the garden. A big, yellow/mustard cotton 2 or 3 man, A-frame. It must have weighed a ton!
Later, we got a blue/red one that was nylon I think. There was always a great smell in them, especially the cotton one.
There's something about sleeping in a tent that wakes up some kind of inner child in me.

There is a lot of Public Art in these parts - they even paint the electrical boxes!​

I set up my tent under a kind of awning yesterday evening, different surfaces requiring different pegs and sat down at a nearby picnic table to post an update. Near midnight I turned in. Internet coverage can be slow!
Under cover I could be adventurous so left a door open on the outer and used only mesh to close the inner. Nice and cool.
I lay back (on my bubbly mat) and spent a little time appreciating where I was. The campground (in reality the main business is cabin rental) was in the countryside near a small village so the night was filled with the sound of crickets (close) and dogs (far away). Very peaceful. A soft pool of light from the campground filtered over me as I picked up my kindle to read a little. Immersed in a William Trevor story I became aware of movement over me - a shadow - with legs - lots of them - and huge!!
Talk about a shock! My instant reaction was to sit up but as I was doing that I realised that probably wasn't the smartest idea!
As it turned out, it didn't make much difference. The spider was outside, walking across the mesh of the door to my bedroom. With light coming in from behind it, it was bigger and spookier! Still pretty big though and he seemed to be staring at me the whole time he was moving!
The first time I regretted not bringing my hipflask! For a stiff drink - not murder!
Mindful of my recent guide in the reptile museum I left the spider in peace and went back to my book.

A nice start to the day before all the chaos!​

Again I woke up just before six! Waaaaay too early! Rolled over and eventually crawled out a bit before 9.
A lazy pot of coffee, a chat with an old dog (Pepino - who calls their dog "cucumber"??) and I slowly started getting organised.

My slightly odd AirBnB is proving difficult to communicate with but we seem to have settled on a 3pm arrival time.

I set off and soon was back on the main road to Oaxaca. A little later it merged with the Cuota and from then on it was quite busy. There was an edge to traffic, a "get outta my way because I'm coming through" vibe, mainly from the bus and taxi drivers. I'd had no breakfast planning to eat and pass some time on the way in.
Not my best plan ever - all the food places on the way into town (my side) were closed! The other side was across 4 lanes of slightly aggressive traffic.

Uncomfortably busy. There was even a kind of a market along the side of the road. It wasn't so much the volume, but the tone of traffic. ​

Getting nearer to town and frankly, getting sick of the traffic, I saw a traffic jam and an Oxxo so pulled in. I coffeed and relaxed and got ready to roll off again.
The traffic jam was still there. A motorcyclist, lying motionless on the road, people standing around looking, presumably waiting on an ambulance. Or Police. Or both.

This wasn't the first accident I've seen here, nor the first one with a victim left in the road. But it was right there on top of a low level edge I'd been feeling since I got on the main road.

A couple of hundred meters later I got off that road and took broken, fractured and frankly, fecked, roads into the centre. Roadworks diverted me onto even worse ones. I did not care. I just wanted away from traffic.

Once past the crazyness on the edge of a new town or city I generally enjoy the side streets. Not today. My mind was back up the road. There were other motorcyclists there. Were they his friends? Was someone looking out for him?
It's the big fear of the solo traveller, isn't it? An accident leaving us alone and injured. Manageable most of the time until something brings it front and centre.

I took no more photos after the accident scene. This is from the city later​

Near the AirBnB I had to go back onto a main road for a bit. I took the path and walked. An hour early, I pulled in and had some food.

A break from the road, a bit of food and a cold drink helped the mood. I walked around the corner and into my AirBnB.

Showered and in fresh clothes I set off walking into town. The Centro Histórico is not terribly big and I soon found the Cathedral, the Plaza and the heart of the place.
There's nothing quite like a park or a Plaza in México to settle an uneasy mind. All the world is there and, so far, never a bad vibe. Sit and watch the world.

Other than bubbles, a recent toy appears to be long tubes filled with air. These can be in different sizes in terms of length or width but the basic objective is to launch them into the air where they will hang before slowly drifting back to earth. Watch the face of the little lad when Papá launches it much higher than he can. First "Wow", (Gaau! en español), then a little face creasing in concern as it hangs, then "Yaaaaaaay!" as it returns to earth. Sound boring? With the smaller ones they can double up as sabers or lances!

Beside me a woman sits down with a baby, sex undetermined, for a sketch from a caricaturist. Before they get comfortable, her friend spritzes the baby's hair and wipes its face. Yes! Because that is what the caricaturist is going to pay attention to!

More relaxed, I took a wandering route home, deciding shamefully to pick up a pizza on my way home. And two beers. I've earned them over the past couple of days.
I've a balcony outside my room, excellent internet and my plan was to relax, eat, savour a cold beer and watch a little HIGNFY.
For a change the plan succeeded!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Monday May 24 Oaxaca

I was a good little tourist!
Over morning coffee made on my own balcony (how luxurious) I browsed my Lonely Planet and saved all the things to do in Oaxaca.

My plan didn't survive my first contact with a signpost!
Panteon - cemetery. I turned around and headed off. I found it easy enough - not an endorsement of my navigational skills, more an indication of the size of the place, did a full lap but it was not open.
The most interesting thing I saw were three female backpackers, weighed down with heavy bags and what I took to be bad moods. They did not look happy. One was lagging behind and I interpreted that as a splitting of a trio.
I got back on course for all of five minutes before I wandered off again.
I am not a good tourist!

I really, really liked this street - trees, shade, seats. Perfecto!​

The first thing is that this town is different. That's a good thing in my book - if I'd done all that climbing to arrive somewhere familiar I could don a dress and join those backpackers.
I'm still figuring out the difference, though.

The Spanish were slow to settle here without military backup and the locals have tended to be rebellious right up to the present day. I don't know if that influenced the architecture or not, but the centre is low, rarely above one storey, seldom above two and it is very unadorned, simplistic, almost, in comparison to other places. I really, really like it.

A typical "elegant" building in Oaxaca, built using local stone. To my eye it's solid, relatively unadorned. Rarely above two stories.​

There is a lot of graffiti. A lot. And political in tone. And very contemporary - a lot expressing Solidarity with Palestine.
I can't claim to understand the context of some messages, but others are pretty clear.
It's strange. I passed through Sligo, North Carolina and saw lots of Israeli flags and pro Israeli signs and here in Oaxaca it's the Palestinians they support.

A picture tells a thousand words​

Elsewhere, there are protests against the Federal or State Government. This area has a very high proportion of indigenous people and their relationship with authorities appears difficult.
Sorry, that's a cop out.
Protesters have been killed with Government involvement.
I know one area of contention has to do with NAFTA and standards introduced (or dropped depending on your perspective) wiping out small communities growing maize.

The more I read about México the more complicated it becomes. It is a testament to the people that they seem to rise above it.

This is an ambulance. The yellow rope you can see is securing the two parts together. And it is still in use!​

Traffic seems to be controlled or limited, at least in some areas so I can wander at will, pretty much, in some streets and if I'm not careful, die under a speeding car in the next! This is another place not to be stepping into the street for a photo.

Oaxaca is famous for its Artesanal products and there is no shortage of stalls, especially of clothing. And especially Ladies' clothing.
It is fabulous! (as I wave my jazz hands!)
Colours that could kill a man if suffering a hangover and designs that would bring him back to life afterwards when worn by an attractive lady.

And people wear them. All the time. It might be a traditional top with jeans or a full dress or other mix and match options, but I am captivated by the colours and the shapes. They can really highlight a female figure of all dimensions, reveal and tease without ever veering into poor taste.
As a man, I get a feckin' Panama style hat! (In reality I love them but in terms of travelling by bike? Not terribly practical!)
It's a bugbear of mine - women's fashions. In warm weather they have such a choice - dresses, skirts, shorts, trousers, tops of infinite styles. Then there's materials and colours. And if that wasn't enough they can wear men's clothes too! What do the lads get? Shorts, normally to the knee and t-shirts. Maybe a linen pants and shirt combo. It's not fair, I say!

Chocolate and coffee are products from here too. I did not know this when I arrived but there is a chocolate hotel here!!
Unfortunately, not made of chocolate!
This is "real" chocolate, not the processed stuff we get in most of Europe and nothing like the crap poor Americans north of the border have to eat!
Like wine, or whiskey, a good beer or sauce, this has to be savoured, held on the palate and time taken to let the flavours conquer your apprehension and then your palate.
It's so different, yet with hints of familiarity that it can be a bit unsettling. I thought I had hit the pinnacle of hot chocolate in CDMX when I was presented with a big bowl of hot milk and a big cube of chocolate on a stick to melt in my milk. Then I had chocolate and chili here.

There is an old aguaduct in the town (in use up until the 1940s). Behind it are houses, some with lovely entrances​

Like other places there is a great mix to the old town. There are the "shopping streets" bustling and full of activity. Then there are more quiet streets that are a pleasure to walk along and see nothing and everything. "Ordinary" buildings with fantastic doors, or bright colour schemes, often contrasting with, but somehow complementing the neighbour.

The aguaduct again, this time a small street behind it​

Again, street art here is fantastic. Not just tolerated, but seemingly encouraged. Is painting on walls not our oldest art form?
And, as always, to revert to contrasts, a fine building has a wreck as a neighbour. There's a real estate agency I came across geared towards American investors. I wonder how the locals feel about being priced out of their own town?

Then there are the tourists. I don't know if it's because I'm on my own and try to blend in as much as possible, but I find them loud, brash and typically inconsiderate. I see very few smiles and the snippets of conversation I pick up give no indication of happiness, comfort or indeed much interest in where they are. My poor hostess in the AirBnB asked me this morning what I thought of México - she's lucky I ran out of vocabulary after about 10 minutes!

Colours everywhere!​

The snippets of conversation I pick up have feck all to do with México.
I suppose to be fair, I have a huge advantage in how I'm travelling. Bouncing around on buses or taking a rental car on the road add their own filters and stresses and probably reduce each place's individual characteristics.
"It's Monday, this must be Oaxaca." - I don't even have a bus schedule to take into account. I'm free!

Having said that, tourist numbers are clearly down. I saw a lot of cheaper Hostals closed although the more upmarket, stylish ones were open, but empty.
There are lots of tourist oriented cafés/bars/restaurants and they are not busy. At all. The problem for them is that a lot of the museums are closed at the moment. Just about every gallery or museum suggested by Lonely Planet is Covid closed.

The Botanical Gardens - closed.​

Maybe I'm not such a bad tourist after all!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Tuesday May 25 Monte Alban

I got to have a glimpse of how the other half (half? 99% more like) live, or more appropriately, travel. It was educational. And may prevent some blue air the next time I find myself doing a long, long climb. Some! I said some!

I went to a world renowned, UNESCO listed site and I got excited by trees. What does that say about me?

My hostess had offered to arrange a tour of Monte Alban, a local tourist site. I had planned to walk out and do it myself but I thought what the heck - let's do this!

Monte Alban is a remarkably well preserved site of an ancient city (other parts of the city existed on different hills).

Looking down from on high! ​

I was picked up at 9:30 am - at my front door, no less, brought into town and hopped on another minibus. My travelling companions were two young women from Michoacán, a couple comprising a Mexican man and his wife from Atlanta, Georgia and an America guy who was working (by phone) while on vacation.
The two girls kept to themselves, the American preferred the company of the Georgian lady as they complained about lots of things and compared notes on the rest. Her husband was a delightful chap, long time resident in the U.S. but seemed very happy to be "home".

Mis compañeros were stumped too!​

Monte Alban is far too much to take in in one day, never mind the couple of hours we were actually there.
There are more than a few cities like this that have been abandoned and no-one really knows why.

We merged with other groups from other buses and I joined the small group with an English speaking guide.
On a site so big they don't even try to cover everything - it seemed that each group made their own way around focusing on different aspects.
The guide knew his stuff but, in fairness, wasn't great at communicating it. Diagrams about daily movements of the sun in different seasons degenerated to a stick making squiggles in the sand. I had done zero research, having only a hazy, vague collection of information.
Similarly, pointing to a faraway building behind his back and referring to it by (archaeological) number was confusing since from different perspectives we all saw him pointing at a different building.

There is a museum at the site entrance that was closed that I'm sure would help draw all the different strands together.

After a while we were set loose on the buildings! Quite literally! There's a low wire around most buildings and signs staying stay away, but clambering on the ruins, if not encouraged, wasn't exactly called out! For some, it was open access!
A fresh approach!

Little information boards display basic information.

The complex is amazing though. Designed and built as an astronomical complex it betrays a very deep knowledge of the year, the sun and its movement. It's beyond my comprehension how this was planned, never mind built on top of a feckin' mountain all that time ago. We have measuring tapes and pencils - what did they have?
Other aspects of the design are beyond impressive too. For example, in open space the acoustics are perfect, as demonstrated by the echoes generated by a simple handclap. One person speaking could be heard clearly by a large crowd without amplification.

And yet it is dull too. There are buildings in a big field. Without specialist knowledge, without understanding how one relates to the other and without knowing how they actually looked at the time it becomes boring.

I am a bad tourist!

I was amused by a collection of stone carvings, mostly male, that the info board suggested were captive kings of other local groups who were castrated and sacrificed to the gods. I thought they just were fond of exposing themselves until I read the board.

Not the most graphic example!​

The two highlights for me were the views (from 2000 meters) and a corner of peace and calm under trees. A young couple had the same idea as me and were taking selfies in this little corner. I took a few of them together then had the place to myself. Bliss! Looking up through leaves that were yellow and green into a blue sky was very calming.
Sitting down and being still the lizards came out to play! Way over there people were wandering around a field of old buildings thinking of residents long gone while here I was watching the current residents!

My corner!​

There were other parts of my tour other than Monte Alban, I just wasn't sure what they were! Had I being smart I'd have said my goodbyes and walked back into town.
We drove for a long time to a roadside buffet restaurant. In comparison to what I've been eating it was overpriced and under quality.
Then on to a ruin of an abbey/convent/church which was closed due to Covid.

The ruin snapped through a closed gate​

Next was a trip to an Artesenal workshop where they carve, then paint animals and other strange things from local wood.
I found it fascinating!

We got a demonstration of the carving process, starting off with a machete down to more refinement with knives.
Two young people were painting - detailed, time-consuming and incredibly precise. The sheer number of shades they had at their disposal was mind boggling.
I chatted to them both, a little in awe of their patience.

Just look at all those little pots of colour!​

Then we went to a little house were a cheerful old woman was weaving and gave a demonstration. I had seen similar in the city the day before.

The last visit of the day was to a local pottery place that perfected the art of black, shiny pottery. The chap doing the presentation was not a happy camper and frankly, I couldn't wait to get out of there.

I travelled in my mind back to my corner and the trees​

All these places have shops selling their wares and no doubt the driver is on a commission. The "weaving house", because it was small could only take a few people at a time so different buses pulled up at different houses!

There is an "Artesenal Route" which I'm sure would be more interesting to follow in a car, especially with language. Somehow, on a tour, it just seems a bit like watching a show and a tad exploitative. But who was being exploited?

It was a relief to get back to town at about 5:30 so I grabbed a coffee and sat in a corner of a church plaza for a bit of people watching. I needed coffee! All that sitting was taking it out of me!
It was also interesting to see a potential route from a minivan - kinda scary to be honest!

If that was typical of my "tour" of México I'd have given up long ago! I couldn't handle that. It was really strange to have a schedule! Let loose on Monte Alban we had a time to rendezvous in the carpark. That felt so strange to me! The lack of control over where I was going also felt uncomfortable.
I feel a bit uncomfortable in stores or workshops at the best of times - I'm travelling on a bike, I can't be carrying anything more! - and I don't want people to waste their time on me.
Then, there's other people. One person made no attempt to hide their impatience at a couple of places and was quite rude.
The Mexican gentleman was a delight, though. He pointed to branches of trees and bushes, picked seeds from the ground and had stories to tell from his youth.

When I saw that most of the museums were closed in Oaxaca I wasn't really bothered. I visited museums in CDMX that I either wanted to see inside or because they had something I wanted to see. I'd much rather wander around and get a feel for a place and its people.

Monte Alban: I went, I saw, I got a little bored but was saved by trees and lizards!

Hmmmm Get the ruin or get the view? Bad Tourist!!​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Wednesday, May 26, 2021
Planning!

Where to now?
Oaxaca is a fairly big and Interesting state with everything from mountains to valleys to the Pacific coast! And lots and lots of pre-Hispanic ruins.
It was my rough intention to get here and slow down (not that I've been breaking speed records!) and do a bit more wandering. Less main roads, a bit more backroads and a bit of camping.

A lovely calm plaza in front of a church. The church is a wreck!​

It was Alex back in CDMX who suggested this state. When I asked where, specifically, he just smiled and said everywhere!

A fairly graphic example of what some people are protesting about​

However, there is a problem - Covid. There are famous waterfalls quite near here where access is by backroad through either one or another village. Except it isn't. Locals have chained off the road - no access - and especially not to foreigners.
Chatting to my hostess' father, himself a bit of a cyclist, he told me of local villages that he won't ride to.
IOverlander is full of reports of roadblocks and unofficial tolls too - they're not fans of the Federal Government here and are not afraid to take matters into their own hands!

A Ford Mustang in immaculate condition​

With that in mind I took an extra day in Oaxaca to do a bit more research.
The next obvious place is Puerto Escondido on the coast, a laid back haven for backpackers and surfers.
I think I'll pass. That's not all snobbery, I've seen reports that the road there is poor in places and it has no shoulder. Also, that will give me the longest ride in the coastal lowlands in pretty hot temperatures and potential heavy rains.

Street Art!​

There's another road to the coast that arrives further south of Puerto Escondido and a third even more south. It's longer, will keep me in the mountains for longer and will deposit me near the coast at Tehuantepec. Plus it has a shoulder, although as it is close to a major port possibly a lot of truck travel too!
That's my road!

Sun setting behind the clouds, Oaxaca​

My understanding is that at this time of the year the weather is brutal on the coast - very hot and humid with lots of mosquitoes. There can also be some very serious winds! This way will have me in the coastal flatlands for the shortest distance before climbing back up again. If it turns out not to be so bad then I have coastal options.
If I take a figary(!), I'll be close to the narrowest point of México - I can do another continental crossing!
Ocean to ocean - again!

Those airtubes that are the source of so much fun!​

Then, more inland, back into mountains and a gentle wander south. That will have me pretty close to Guatemala or a bit more east and I'll be close to Belize - not a friendly place for bikers, I believe.

The Bike makes people happy. Hands up all who know that June 03 is International Bike Day!​

Don't get me wrong, I know I'm damn lucky to be doing what I am, but this approaching of a dead end does tend to drain some of the optimism. Add to that the fact that I am getting back to being on my "route" provisional as it was, through Central America.
It's a bit like walking to your favourite restaurant, seeing the lights and the ambience, smelling the aroma of all the delicious food inside but it's a private party - no entrance today. It can be hard to focus on the quality of the walk with the ambience and aroma denied.

An example of graffiti. Brave Women don't be submissive nor obedient - Arm yourself!​

I have to hand it to the street sellers. All that stock put out to be removed at the end of the day or when the heavens open!​

On the positive side, in this land of wonderful trees, my first pit stop tomorrow is a huge, massive tree!

A field with some old buildings​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, May 27, 2021, Oaxaca City to San Pablo Villa de Mitla, 51km, Total KM 870
Min meters 1521, Max Meters 1689
Total Climb 324 Total Descent 165
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 39
Ave Temp 31


Tim Tower on CGOAB took my route out of Oaxaca. He commented that he found the countryside very pretty and regretted doing a couple of long days. I am in no rush and will bow to that wisdom!
I'm heading for the Pacific coast but these will be quality, not quantity days. It's not like I'm in a hurry!

Some very impressive street art in Mitla

​

I was actually a bit excited to be hitting the road again when I woke up this morning. There was a noticeable ball of tension in my belly at the thought of traffic but I'd a fair idea that I'd be out of it soon enough and into some interesting country.

Interestingly, I had had enough of Oaxaca too! There were no regrets that I was leaving despite the fact that I really liked the place. There's a vibe, an edge to the place that I appreciated. There's enough evidence around, especially in the art, that says, yes, we may be a tourist destination but we're a community too, and we have things to say. I didn't have an awful lot of time to dwell on the thought (traffic saw to that) but my superficial conclusion was that I had had too much contact with the "processed" side of the city and its historical attraction. Too much "there's a great Margherita in that place but that one makes a terrible cocktail". Too many tourists following each other and not appearing to be particularly interested or inspired.

I brewed a pot of coffee on my balcony (oh! The luxury!) and got myself together. Brought all my stuff downstairs and everything outside for loading up.
My bike had been moved to park a car and that's when I noticed that 3 or 4 zip ties had been snapped off my flag and it was effectively detached. Not a big deal, but I wish they had told me as I had to dig back into a pannier for more zip ties. Later, I discovered that my second, smaller flag is missing too. It may have been the kids!

Oaxaca - a very pretty town in parts, a gritty town in others. I really liked it.​

Leaving, I took little quiet streets for as long as I could before joining the main road. Not bad at all! In one of the bizarrest shop/speaker combinations I've witnessed, a Pharmacy was blasting death metal - at 9 am!!

My first target was only 10km down the road - The Tree of El Tule. Of all the things to be affected by Covid I was not expecting it to be a tree! The park it's in is closed!!!
For some reason that affected me more than it should. I was quite grumpy and deflated. I only wanted to see a feckin' tree!!
Stopped, I was approached by a couple on bikes, he on a tricycle. He wanted to go on a long bike trip too!
I told him about CGOAB for alternative bike touring ideas, but while they were pleasant I wasn't really in the mood. It was less a conversation, more a gentle interrogation.
Making my excuses I headed off again, the road out of town a series of potholes more interesting than Monte Alban and some, seemingly as old!

El Tule is actually a very pretty town and my peevishness aside I'm sure the town is suffering badly. ​

Back on the main road I had a bit of a dilemma. What I had seen when I checked on Google was that this road had a generous shoulder. And I still thought that - except for the fact that the traffic didn't! It wasn't wide enough to take a car, but they still used it! In reality, it was grand. Traffic gave me lots of room.

I was passing through a long valley with mountains and hills near and far. I was finding the scenery interesting and changing constantly as the clouds moved as I meandered along.

Leaving a town there was a large Police roadblock that I approached hesitantly. I got smiles, waves, thumbs up and nothing but encouragement.

There was always something interesting to see. I don't think I'll ever get tired of blue mountains!​

Passing a ruin on the side of the road I was reminded of other ruins around here. A quick check of my map and I pulled off at the next turn. I knew nothing about these except that they were neglected and probably empty. The road was a tease, though. I'd much rather be on these country roads than the main ones.
On arrival, I was right - empty! I could ride right in. Except a man there, who didn't identify himself, told me it was closed.
How is an open space closed? (I didn't really say that)
Ok, I said, I'll just look. (I did say that)
No.
What? I'm supposed to close my eyes? (I didn't say that either!)
I was just taking my camera out when a minibus pulled up.
My new friend wasn't happy with these arrivals. Did they not know it was closed?
In all fairness there isn't a single sign anywhere, not at the turn off from the main road, not at the car park and not at the open gateway to the ruins saying "closed". I felt like telling him to write something on paper and I'd stick it up at the end of the road on my way out.
That's when I got a little lesson. A Mexican with the group in the bus had a chat with Señor Grumpy, some money changed hands and now things were different!

The other people on the bus were Americans, one telling me he was Californian and a cyclist too. Then he added he'd never ride his bike "down here". There was something in his tone that irked me, something in the way he said "down here"
You should try it, I told him, it's great.
Again, his reply rubbed me wrong, restating no, never and "down here".
That's your loss, I replied which, I think, rubbed him up the wrong way because he snapped back that he had lots of cycling to do at home.

Since they were now getting a chat from Señor Grumpy and a bit of a tour I took advantage to whip out my compañeros for a photo.
What is it about some people that they'll talk about you while standing right beside you?
"What's he doing?"
"Oh, that's sooooo cute"
"Isn't he a bit old for toys?"
"That's a bit weird".

Taking the side road to the ruins, riding over dry fords, able to reach out and touch giant cacti (not a good idea!). These were the roads I wanted to explore here, but alas not to be.​

Back on the road I still wasn't in great form!
But that's the beauty of the road. I left them behind and cycled on. They got smaller and smaller, the voices became comically highly pitched until they disappeared in the ether.

The joys of travelling on a bike!

Seeing an Oxxo I pulled in for a coffee and a bit of shade. No peace! A security guard wanted to chat. Lots of questions, but in a more conversational format. I was half way through talking to him when the penny dropped at how easily I was chatting in Spanish! That'll lift a mood!

At the next town I pulled in for some food. People talk about Mexican cuisine as if its generic but it is highly regional. Today's brunch was a large tortilla, about 12 inches across, covered in dark, hot, chocolatey mole (think tomato sauce on a pizza base) with some shredded chicken, tomato, and cheese, folded over and heated through on both sides so the cheese is melted. Messy as hell to eat with fingers but delicious!
There was a great little assembly line in operation.
One woman was making the tortillas, breaking off a handful of dough, placing it between two metal plates that looked like a seat of a metal chair. Pulling the "back of the chair" down with a lever compressed and flattened the dough. Up, rotate and repeat. A raw, perfectly round tortilla. This was placed on a large, concave disc sitting over a charcoal fire.
Now Lady #2 takes over and cooks the tortilla then begins to add ingredients. Once added, it is folded over on itself, calzone style and moved to the edge of the big disk where it was less hot. She caught me watching her and responded with shyness so I dropped my plan to talk to her.
Lady #3 takes the ready food either on a plate (for eating in) or in greaseproof paper for eating out.
Here, in Oaxaca, that's an empanada. In CDMX an empanada is completely different, made with pastry. I'm telling ya, the food here is complicated! But delicious!

This is the type of thingy used to make the empanadas down here. A round plate, heated from beneath with a wood fire. Pay attention to how securely it is sited!​

Back on the road I was swiftly out in the country again and enjoying myself. I passed a zoo, quite famous for its wild big cats that I thought would be an interesting diversion. Closed.

The wind had picked up too and was making the cycling tougher - but deliciously cooler!

My route turned right but I decided to head on and into Mitla to see some more ruins. (It appears I have some unfinished business with ruins!) To get into Mitla there was a decontamination process - cars were sprayed inside and out, occupants out for the same. Me? I got smiles and waved through.
This is a different part of the country with different attitudes. It may seem futile or pointless to some of us, but I think it's important to respect the locals. I can think of at least one person on my tour the other day who would have had a big problem with that process.

Mitla is a charming little place - clean, neat, quite modern, in fact. Lovely colours. I was charmed!

There is a wonderful attraction close by, Hierve el Agua, which I thought was a waterfall. It's actually a rock formation that looks like a waterfall. But access is blocked by locals. In the same area are (more) ruins but also some caves that were inhabited. I'd like to see those.

While soaking up the atmosphere in the little plaza after a cold drink I had the idea of perhaps getting some local info and trying to at least see the caves in the morning.

Having a look on Booking.com I found a place for the cheapest I've paid yet! Off to look at ruins and then check in!

Getting "Artsy" in Mitla​

Ha Dumbass!
The ruins are closed! Or at least the main ones. Walking along a street full of wonderful artesenal shops (hence the walking - more time to see!) I literally walked into some ruins! The old Mexican contrast in full force.
The "main" ruins are right next to the church (and probably under it too) but are closed. Confusing because I saw people wandering around inside when I was at the church.
A wander around and my confusion was answered. Someone was taking bribes and a whole crew of people were involved. A bus had arrived and any likely tourists were approached. I had numerous offers to "mind" my bike. I declined.

The Mexican Contrast! Ancient, preHispanic ruins on the street and right beside a shop! I love it!​

Check in is at 6 so I found a lovely little restaurant to have some café de ola and write this up.

I met a Canadian chap who is down here to buy some land, set up a mezcal operation and an AirBnB. Mezcal, similar to but different from Tequila is big business here. There are many, many Fabricas de Mezcal around here.
Whereas Tequila can only be made from a specific type of agave plant (and from certain regions), Mezcal is more promiscuous in its ingredients - up to 30 different types of agave can be used.
I can't imagine trying to get that business off the ground. How does a foreigner compete against locals with a local product? I'm pretty sure the tours are a main source of revenue and again, I can't see a foreigner breaking that market too easily or cheaply.

Wandering around town later (the less said about my cheap accommodation the better!) I noticed that the main route to the ruins is very pretty and gentrified. Take a wander off that in either direction and it's a little coarser, a little more real. I prefer that!

A solar tree in Mitla. You can plug in your phone!​

What is obvious, though, is that the town has been hit badly by a lack of tourists. There are rows and rows of artesenal shops and an entire square beside the ruins - all pretty much empty. Restaurants closed and the ones open doing no trade.
Another thing, though, is that people are very industrious. There were many women in shops with no customers weaving or stitching new stock and I saw and heard many of the big traditional looms working. A sign of optimism, perhaps.
One guy looked satisfied - he had a store that sold the spools of material used in all the weaving! That's the business I'd get involved in!


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, May 28, 2021, San Pablo Villa de Mitla to San Pedro Totolapan 55km, Total KM 925
Min meters 935, Max Meters 1930
Total Climb 480 Total Descent 1212
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 46
Ave Temp 33

I'm going to have to stop choosing things I want to see first thing in the morning and start with something I'm not bothered about. Less disappointment that way.

I overslept by my standards simply because my tiny room with no ventilation was actually quite cool.
I was up and out in record time, foregoing making coffee to get on the road.
I was off to see some caves!

I cut through town, across the libre and over the cuota (exits were blocked as I had read) and headed to the village of Xaaga, skirting its edge.
I was very conscious of my reception but people just seemed indifferent.

Ah! Backroads! Adventure everywhere! Perhaps it was all in my head but every sullen stare seemed more impactful than before​

Past town onto rough roads I was heading out into the country. People working in the fields had a look, some returned my greeting. Had the roads and the views not been so fantastic I may well have been turned around by the sullen stares of the others.

I didn't have far to go but I was taking my time. Blue skies, bright sun, rough "roads" and wonderful views. This was more like it!
Coming to where my GPS said the caves were I saw a big development under construction and not much else. Then two dogs went for me. I stopped to calm them down and when I was ready to go again my front tyre was flat as a pancake!
Oh well, I haven't had a puncture in a while.

I got everything off, flipped over the bike and set to work. A thorn had given a good rip to the tube. Replacement tube required.
The guys working on the building pretty much ignored me as I worked away.
Finished, I asked one of them for directions to the caves but they were long and complicated and he made it clear I'd not be able to get there on the bike.

Pretty interesting views!​

At that stage, I said to hell with it, back to the road. So I did!
I tried to take a shortcut on the cuota but the barricade includes a barbed wire fence that even a bike can't get around. I retraced my route from yesterday and this time took my turnoff in the direction of Tehuantepec. As soon as I did I noticed that my confusion from yesterday was well and truly put to bed - there wasn't a trace of a shoulder!

With less cloud cover than yesterday it was hotter, but again a wind came to my rescue - even if it was against me.

The next order of business was some breakfast!
That happened about 15km down the road with a veggie quesadilla, no coffee though. Interestingly, that town, located along the main road had only one street open to the town centre - the rest were chained off.

After that I had a slow, hot lengthy climb past lots and lots of Mezcal Frabricas and shops. I mean lots. From little places thrown together at the side of the road to huge complexes. All for tourists. And there aren't many of those.

It got me thinking about how do these survive even without Covid? Are there that many people visting these places? And how do they choose one place over the other? Or do people visit multiple ones? Do they drive? At that point I decided it was better to drop the subject!

I had one uncomfortable experience with a minibus that I saw coming up behind. Ahead was a blind bend and when a car came around I pulled to the side and stopped thinking that was the safest. Mr. Minibus driver was not happy at having to slow down, but then stopped beside me (no need) and blasted his horn several times. I couldn't see him (presumably a him) through the tinted windows and then they sped off. I've picked up a few bad words and used them all - several times!

Near the top of the climb I pulled off to one side to rest. There were a couple of rough, sandy, rocky roads heading into the countryside but a teeming mass of movement on the ground caught my eye. Big, fat ants, fire ants presumably, were frantically busy coming and going from three holes in the ground. What they were doing I have no idea, but they were very gung ho about it! So interesting was this little spectacle that I failed to notice them climb onto my eccos (shoes). With lots of ventilation and not wearing socks I soon felt them on me!
Well, Michael Flatley eat your heart out! One bugger bit me and it burned for a long time after. I tried to be respectful and keep in mind that I wandered into their territory, but plans rarely survive past the first bite!
I got back on the road!

Up here, only about 300 meters higher it was very green in comparison to just down the road. Lush wouldn't be a bad description.
Once past the high point the road sloped down and the wind picked up - big time! A hot, hot wind it was, like standing in front of an oven.

Green! Very, very green!​

It took a little while but then Mother Nature hit the "Spectacular" button!
Blue mountains in the distance, each one a different shade, pure white clouds sitting on top of them in, of course, a bright blue sky. Vague green hills and mountains closer to me, the closer the more detail. And all this from nowhere! One moment I'm travelling down a straight road, the next it curves away and gives me this:

There was a bit of space beside the road so I pulled up and savoured the view. I knew Oaxaca had mountains but this is getting ridiculous!

Unfortunately, from a picture perspective, there were few stopping places and fewer guardrails where I could stop safely, however, from a "thrill" perspective the lack of guardrails combined with some pretty steep drops was a boon!

Sometimes only a "road shot" will do...​

I didn't fly down, I took it steady not wanting to miss anything. Traffic tended to travel in packs (following the slowest) so at times, I had this wonderful road to myself. I passed cliffs of strange rock that made me think of the "waterfall" I'd missed and others in shades varying from green to red to pink.

Despite not pedalling much it was still pretty hard work - but the reward was all around me!

Arriving into the small town of San Pedro Totolapan I pulled in for some food and coffee. My promised coffee never arrived, my waitress was a surly as they come, but my Mexican Eggs were fresh and tasty.

This was a bit of a decision point. Ahead another climb and the next hotel 30 odd km down the road.
Here there was mention of rooms to rent and a cyclist had stayed in the Municipal grounds a few years ago. My decision was firmed up when I saw some dark clouds rolling in. I set off to see if I could find the rooms. They were across the road! I called the number and spoke with a lady. She'd be down soon was what I think she said. I waited about 30 minutes heard some thunder and waited some more.
Eventually a little old lady showed up, showed me the room (surprisingly better than expected) avoided telling me the price several times then hit me with 450 pesos or $22 as she kept saying.
No way! The room was nice but internal with no ventilation and there was no running water. No way! I was feeling exploited with her talking about the big rainstorm coming.

So, I hopped on the bike and set off, nervously, to find the Municipal buildings which I did easily enough.
I spoke to a man, he told me to speak to a lady, she said she'd talk to someone and here I am, perched up in the "kiosko", what I'd refer to as a bandstand. I have a dry, secure place to sleep and they have a copy of my passport!

But more than that, much more than that, I've done another thing that I have read so much about. Another step closer to being a proper cycle tourist!

Let's just take a moment to appreciate that. A global Pandemic, a stranger in a small town with basic language skills made welcome.

My night consisted of checking the bike - there's a strange knocking sound, setting up the tent then watching people come and go. Mother Nature provided some cooling rain, regular thunder and fabulous lightning displays on and off for hours.
From where I'm typing this, I'm facing the Palacio Municipal, behind and to the right are tree covered hills and two defiant palm trees. Every now and then the dark hills and my friendly Palm trees are lit up.
We're not in Kansas anymore!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Saturday, May 28, 2021, San Pedro Totolapan to El Camaron Yautepec 52km, Total KM 977
Min meters 671, Max Meters 1258
Total Climb 796 Total Descent 1005
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 47
Ave Temp 37


If you're noticing a lot of Saint names in the towns you wouldn't be wrong! My understanding is that the Spanish when they arrived took to renaming the towns by adding a Saint's name to the actual name of the town. In reality, towns are known by either their Saint appellation or the "old" name.

Imagine sweeping around a bend and hitting this! ​

If the Touring Gods ever sat down and decreed the Ultimate Touring Road this section of Mex 190 from Mitla to Tehuantepec has to be on the shortlist! It is stunning!!
Bloody hard work at times, but more than worth the burn. Superlatives get used far too easily these days, but this road deserves them all! I may well slow down (even more!).
(Early on today I had an idea of a Camino de Mezcal along this road. A spectacular walk broken with visits to Mezcal distilleries. As the day developed the idea just became stronger and stronger. A bike is a great way to see it all, but a walk? Even better!)

My mind drifted back to the old days and the first people to settle in these areas would have followed that valley, that river. ​

I had company last night - several men sleeping under the entrance to the Municipal buildings. The next morning they all seemed to be working there or going off to work on municipal business.

Thunder rolled, lightning flashed and rain fell as I slowly drifted off to sleep.
I awoke before dawn and slowly adjusted to where I was.
Oh! The sounds of a Mexican morning!
There are cocks crowing with a range of abilities. One, I can imagine him strong and proud announcing the new day, another, has seen a lot of days and seems weaker and hoarser and probably less enthusiastic. Youngster, voice not broken yet needs practise but, in fairness, he keeps plugging away! And, of course, there are lots more!
Then there's a variety of birds, exotic to me, chattering, singing and adding layers of complex harmonies.
Of course, there are dogs yapping and barking in the distance.
Faintly in the far distance I can hear some traffic but as the first rays of light appear it is all Mother Nature.
Blessed! I'm feckin' blessed!

When your day starts off like this, with exotic birds chirping and chattering excitedly because a whole new day is begining and all the old reliables, cocks and dogs, are doing their thing you just know it's going to be a good day!​

I got up slowly and quietly. Rainwater had spread from the edges of my high vantage point and under the tent.
I don't get it. This is an "expedition" standard tent but the water has soaked through the footprint and floor meaning my sleeping pad (still holding up) is soaking! My cheapy Coleman never had that problem!

First order of business was to sit down in my chair and watch the sun take over the world. Nothing spectacular, but incredibly pretty.

Then coffee!

Then I slowly set about getting organised. I had a tent to dry out and a sleeping pad. Given that I don't know where, or under what conditions, I'll be sleeping tonight I want my tent as dry as possible.

It's interesting watching the activity around me. Nobody pays much attention to me but if I catch an eye and offer a cheerful "Buenos Días" I'll get a smile and a response.

Eventually I am ready to leave and offer my gratitude to the first man I spoke to yesterday evening. (He slept here too). No fancy response just a simple message to have a good journey.

First order of business is breakfast so when I rejoin the main road I take a left to the first restaurant. That's when I notice a squishy front wheel!

I order breakfast, pump it up and I'll see what it's like afterwards.

Afterwards it was still holding so I set off fuelled with coffee, eggs, chorizo, beans and washed down with cucumber water. Delicious!

Climbing away from the river​

First off, a gentle descent, a bit of flat and then the climbing began. Here was my problem - it was already late (after 10 am) so hot. Ideally an early start would have me climbing in the cool. And this heat is different. It's a damp heat. It feels hotter than Gizmo reads. However, I get to see the countryside in glorious sunshine!

A brown muddy river was thrashing along beside me until I started to climb and it benefited from the sun. Swirling brown after the rains last night in the distance it looked silver as the sun danced upon it.
This country is incredibly green so I have green hills all around me, dark green veering to blue mountains in the distance and above all a bright blue sky to top it all off. Glorious!

Slow and steady was the name of the game. I am in absolutely no rush. Like yesterday there were few places to stop and not many guardrails. When I came to the twisty bits (and there were several) I was presented with a whole new vista on every turn. Honestly, it was like Mother Nature was giving me a gift on every turn.

Exceptional circumstances require an exceptional response so I hopped off and walked - not out of necessity - just so I could see everything. I was in my element!
I met a mechanic working on a truck. Two days he'd been working on it. A U.S. truck he was bemoaning how feckin' complicated it was. He declined my offer of water and wished me well on my journey. It's strange, I find it easier to approach people here, in a foreign language than at home! I know nothing about engines in English, never mind Spanish!

This tree really struck me (there were others living life on the edge too. It inspired the thought that when we have completely fecked up this planet and either destroyed ourselves or left that Mother Nature will find a way to survive.​

A little later a pickup pulled up beside me and a tantalising cold beer was thrust at me. I declined, imagining the effect one beer would have on my head.

Slowly I gained on the top, stopping regularly to soak my bandana in water and to look back on the road. One rest place was denied to me by the presence of a dead horse. The stench almost had me retching.

One thing here that can be quite extreme is the camber of the roads. It's not unusual for me to go to hop on the bike after a stop but the bike, right beside me, is too high to get my leg over!

As the road gently turned and rolled downwards I got a lovely, delicious, sensual blast of the wind! Ohhhhhh! No words!

A gentle descent, not enough guardrails and some dodgy surfacing mean it's slow progress, but time to see everything!

There is no constant to what I am seeing. Just as mountains in front of me become familiar and close I'll change direction and new ones will fall into frame.
This side is more agriculturally active - agave mainly. Agave takes 6-7 years to grow to fruition so I get to see it in all sizes. The rich brown soil they are regularly planted in is a pleasing contrast to the rich green surrounding it.

Vivid green, cacti, rock.... And that's just one corner!​

I pull up at a roadside restaurant offering shade. A lovely sandwich, a cold pineapple drink and a bit of relaxing. Behind me, a group of lads, 4 or 5 of them, late teens or early twenties sat at a table littered with empty bottles.
In Germany they mark your beermat with every beer, in Mēxico they count the empty bottles!
They were loud, boisterous, typical country lads (as I know them) unwinding on a Saturday afternoon. It was the women though, that had me a bit on edge. As time passed, the woman proprietor and (presumably) two teenage daughters were watching the lads and smiling at the right time but were clearly not relaxed. The girls moved away busying themselves away from the boys. The eldest who had been friendly and relaxed when I arrived was clearly tense.
I didn't know why the lads were inspiring this tension, but given the fact that they and I were the only customers I thought it wise to move on.

Similar theme but very, very different!​

By now there was a headwind and on the flat it was like a fan in a hot oven blasting hot air all over me! Going up it tended to disappear until it teased me with a blast every now and then.

My big climbing was over, but there were a few more to complete. I arrived into the charming village of San Jose de Gracia and pulled in for some crisps/chips and a cold drink. The views were spectacular and on a whim I decided to stay in this little place. I cycled through the pleasant town, anticipating a lovely, exploratory walk. People were smiling and saluting me. Perfect!
The hotel, however, having passed the town was a bit divey and I was shocked but not disappointed to be told there was no room at the inn. I bought a bottle of cold water (twice the normal price!) for the next stage and set off again. By now, after spending way too long on my snack and drink it was about 5pm so I could feel a little tingle of pressure to get my ass in gear.
Mother Nature did not cooperate!
Even more spectacular views! There was a longish climb but I really didn't care. This is what I wanted! Cycling along and being in awe of where I was. This is not the time nor the road for rushing!

I haven't been singing (not like me) but today I was shouting in pure wonderment! I had a grin plastered to my face for that last 20 odd km. I thought the climb and the heat were going to kill me but I figured the Touring Gods wouldn't do that to me here! I did get a bit lightheaded and pulled up in to the rain gulley for a while.
Even the dark clouds rolling in couldn't get me to hurry up. That would be a sin on this road!
When, with about 5km to go the thunder started I roared "Not Today" and pulled in for another photo.
Thank feck the last few km were flat and the hotel was on this side of town because no sooner had I my key then the heavens opened.

If not impressed by the beauty you can be thrilled by the potential for rocks falling!​

What was so special about today?
The views were spectacular! I know I whinge and moan about mountains but I keep going back for more! There's something mysterious about the mountains here, the way they appear in layers. They just draw me in. I'd pass a scene and think to myself that it couldn't be surpassed. Until the next bend. Honestly, the whole day, just better and better.
There was a bit of everything on the road. I had climbs, but not all day climbs. I had descents but not fast drop ones. Traffic was respectful with two notable exceptions - an impatient collectivo pulled out to overtake a bus and nearly took me head on and later a pickup nearly ran me off the road and down a 30 meter drop as a passenger tried to video me. (To clarify, I don't think the point of the video was to see me crash, just someone a bit overexcited).
I crossed a river a couple of times, passed walls of different coloured rock, had all kinds of vegetation beside me, lizards for company. Above me large birds soared in the hot air. A vulture (I think began to circle around me then was joined by one, then two then three more!
At times, because traffic tended to come in packs, there was almost total silence - except for the sounds of birds and animals. It's hard to describe how that feels but it appeals to the explorer within me. Just me and this fantastic landscape. Stop a moment, straddle the bike and soak it all up.
And there were thrills galore! I saw three rockfalls - live! The lack of barriers and sheer drops will get the heart pumping! In one case I know why there was no barrier - a rockfall took it out! The wind, at times was blowing me around.
When I am old(er), (more) decrepit and scared of my own shadow I'm going to look back on this day, look at the photos and remind myself of what a great feckin' adventure I had!

Today was epic. If only I could meet that feckin' Californian cyclist again!

Not today, Thunder, not today!​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

More Photos!

What can I possibly say?​

Thrilling!​

All the colours on this corner got me.​

That's my road way down there!​

If you don't like mountains you're in the wrong thread!​

Everything is so green!

And blue!​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Sunday, May 30, 2021, El Camaron Yautepec to Jalapa 89 km, Total KM 1066
Min meters 164, Max Meters 1294
Total Climb 1314 Total Descent 1702
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43
Ave Temp 32


If you were looking at a section of Mex 190 today you may well have seen a loaded bike leaning against a low wall. Despite the heavy, heavy rain and the wind waving the flag and pole attached to the bike it stood out in the gloom with yellow and fluro green panniers and a bright yellow rain cover over the barbag.
Beside the bike, sitting on the wall was the rider of this bike, head bowed from the rain, his oversized green raincoat covered with a bright orange vest.
Those that pay close attention might have seen his head bobbing up and down and given the pretty bleak scene it wouldn't be wildly inaccurate to assume that the poor fella was sobbing.
He wasn't. He was laughing his head off because his travel had come to an end for the most ridiculous of reasons!

The woman who checked me in last night will not win any awards for hospitality. Tim Tower stayed in this hotel and I do wonder if he has inspired a following and the poor woman is sick of people on bikes. I even got his room! Tim must be a small man because it is tiny. I mean fall over yourself tiny! No hot water, nor toilet seat either! But it did have airco!
It may have been the airco but I had a terrible night's sleep. Up late, about 7:30, made coffee, had a couple of text chats and was generally slow to get going.
When I did move I stopped at the first open restaurant for breakfast. I think it may be the chilis but I can't eat in the morning. Put some eggs in front of me, though, I spoon on the salsa and start the day with a little burn!

I hadn't gone far until I pulled into a filling station to top up my tyres. Front is a little softer, but nothing major.

Hot and high!​

Then into some serious climbing. Because of my day of rest approach it was already hot. So hot, in fact that a heat haze was disguising the views.
I think I had about 600 meters to gain. Slow, steady and regular stops. As usual there was precious little shade.
At the top a little picnic area and a particularly bright and cheerful shrine. I pulled into some welcome shade.

Apart from memorials for people who died on the road there are ocassionaly larger buildings of some kind of religious purpose. This one was particularly bright and cheerful with a few picnic tables and even toilets. ​

The sky was different today, cloudy, and as I set off again downhill I saw some dark clouds approaching. I knew at the bottom of this hill there was at least one comedor and a possibility to camp again at a school. I decided to race the clouds!
To give you an idea of what it's like here, on the descent I was approaching a cow grazing on the steep slope below my side of the road. The big, loud, black smoke belching, screeching truck in front of me didn't faze her - I did! She took one look at me, panicked, jumped up on the road in front of me and bounded across the other side - never once looking left or right! For a moment it looked like we'd collide but thankfully she was rather nimble on her hoofs.
(Later I met a calmer cow and separately, 4 goats happily wandering down the road!)

Before the rain​

Sunday seems to be the day for burning scrub. I passed several fires set specifically to burn off the scrub at the side of the road. Great fun on a descent - I can't see where I'm going!
Half way down big raindrops started to pelt me. The problem with these roads is that there are few (safe) places to stop so I carried on until I came to a bus stop and pulled in to don my rain jacket.
I did have the thought that it would have been better to have the rain on the ascent - it would have been cooler!
I set off again and spotted a Comedor so pulled in. Ooooh! A bad vibe. A man, shirtless, was pacing around and barely acknowledged me, more interested in spitting on the mud floor. A glance around showed there was no fire so any food was going to be a while. A woman appeared and I bought time by asking for a cold drink. Two dogs had been yapping since I pulled up and one was petrified of me despite his barking. I spent quite a bit of time coaxing and cajoling him until he would approach me, while shirtless made a song and dance about making a fire. The woman was watching me intently.
I paid for my drink, slipping her some extra money. Something was not right there.

Even in the gloom there are lots of colours​

Rolling downhill I came to the village and met another woman who will win no hospitality awards, but her quesadillas were delicious. By the time I was finished, so was the rain so I had a nose around. Schools are closed on Sundays (irrespective of Covid) and no-one I asked was volunteering information. No camping for me today.

Back on the road again. It would have been a very short day, anyways. Five minutes later the rain started again! While the temperature dropped I was never cold. In fact, I often entered pockets of warm air.
I had about 10km of relatively flat and then another climb. The start of that coincided with a proper storm - heavy, heavy rain, lightning and gusting winds.
At one stage there was a flash of lightning above me and almost instantaneously a huge bang of thunder that had me wobbling all over the place. Fan-Bloody-Tastic!
The rain I could handle, the lightning was just great entertainment, but the wind? That was dangerous! I was being blown hither and tither. Sharp bends, unguarded slopes? The safest thing was off and walk.

Not many shots because of rain but this distinctive peak caught my eye​

I normally wear sandals on the bike. For big climbs I have donned other shoes if I think I'll be pushing but after that big canyon climb I've been back in my sandals.
Mexican shoe sizes (now that I understand them) are fantastically simple. Measure your foot in centimetres - that's your size. Unfortunately, I didn't know that and converted from European to US to Mexican size when I bought them and they're a bit big for me. Since I only wear them on the bike - no problem.
Until it rains.
And I'm walking.
And pushing a loaded bike.
Then my feet slide around in them! Uncomfortably so. Dangerously so. (They're more than a bit big!)
What could I do except park up the bike, sit beside it and laugh! The intrepid traveller who wants to go to Ushuaia stopped in his tracks because he can't buy sandals in the right size! (No, I'm not going barefoot on these roads!)

I did remember my earlier thought of how nice rain would have been on the climb. Be careful what you wish for!

Lots of breaks. This resting point was particularly interesting​

When the wind eased off I climbed on and set off again. The world is so green around here and in this rain I can understand why.
Another descent had me rolling in to another little village, a cold drink, a delicious chicken sandwich and even a rainbow!

And for contrast, here is the landscape in the sun. Now I know why it is so green!​

I was nearly done now. Magdalena Tequisistlán had a hotel and it was an hour or two away. Another climb, another descent. I even put away my rainjacket. Down here the country was brown and scrubby, an interesting contrast to higher up.
Mother Nature wasn't co-operating though and I was watching more thunderclouds rolling in. I like a good race! Then the thunder started! More fun!
I crossed a long bridge, not stopping, thinking it'll be nicer tomorrow in the sun and slowed down to take my turn to the town and the hotel.
Police checkpoint. The town is Covid closed! No access!
The Policeman was less than helpful telling me I could sleep in the bus stop. Open on both sides, a big drop behind and on a main road? No thanks. Coming up on 7pm there were few options. I had passed nowhere suitable for a wild camp. All I could do was go on. Then the rain started. Again!
Time for another laugh!
I knew there was a town with hotels 20km down the road. It was flat, but I was heading into a warm wind. If the heavy rain stopped soon I'd make it in daylight. The Touring Gods agreed and when the rain lightened I switched on all lights and set off.

I felt cheated. My plan to take it easy and enjoy this special and beautiful road was in tatters. But I had a goal so I concentrated on that. I was making good time until I met a convoy of about 100 trucks coming against me - under armed guard. Once someone came up behind me there was no choice put to pull over - they couldn't pass me with the convoy.
That pause kind of killed me, but I set off again, if slower.
Finally, the town loomed up on Gizmo and I was feeling good. Then I met the floods!
Streets flooded, topes surrounded with muddy brown water. Rivers running down the streets! Will this day ever end???

Down low the Palm Trees are more common​

It did. I found a hotel - room on the second floor!! I laughed again. The poor girl checking me in must think I'm mad as a hatter!

A hot, hot shower and I was revived!


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Monday, May 31, 2021, Jalapa to Tehuantepec 42 km, Total KM 1108
Min meters 72, Max Meters 277
Total Climb 381 Total Descent 441
Min Temp 29 Max Temp 49
Ave Temp 42

Oh Dear Lord! I am in another world!! A hot one!!!!

I woke up as I fell asleep - spreadeagled on the bed under the large rotating fan!

After my shower last night, I toddled downstairs and next door for a bite and a beer. Delicious cold beer! I went back upstairs, had a cold shower and still damp, lay down to sleep. So tired was I that I even set my alarm clock. All that did was give me the delicious sensation of hitting snooze repeatedly for an hour!

I was tired. Very tired. And sore. My legs ached far more than I would have expected. Slowly, I got up and got dressed.

Even the rivers are dry!​

Outside, on a quest for breakfast I was struck full force with the heat. Bam! I got lightheaded and had to sit down. Sitting there, seeing two of everything, plonked down on the side of the road in pouring rain didn't seem all that bad!! When my senses cleared I became aware of the most amazing cacophony of exotic bird sounds - amazing! I also reminded myself that this is the lowest altitude I have been at in well over a year.

This this look hot to you? Try cycling in it!​

Breakfast was tacos and a liter of water/melon/cucumber - delicious! I gave serious thought to staying an extra day, but in reality, this is a small village, wifi in the hotel doesn't stretch to my room and I knew I'd be bored. I did consider doubling back to that lovely bridge I saw yesterday. I think laziness ruled it out.

Back to the hotel and bring everything downstairs. The girl who checked me out was no more than 10 (and she was in charge of the shop next door!) and she could teach a few people a thing or two!
Here, it's normal to get a tv remote (sometimes 2) with your roomkey. They are expected to be returned the next morning. Having declined mine last night (I had enough to be carrying!) this caused a bit of confusion this morning, but she dealt with it excellently.

Setting off, I had an "uh oh" moment so turned right instead of left to hit an Oxxo. Coffee. I needed coffee.

Coffeed up I set off again through town. Here's the thing with me and the bike - sometimes I struggle to throw the leg over, dread those first pedal strokes as my muscles yell abuse at me, but then the magic happens and a smile breaks out!

So, with a smile on my face I set off on a gentle climb out of town. 30km to go, Gizmo reading 36C and climbing. The Touring Gods even laid on a headwind for me!

Hot, but pretty!​

Traffic was quiet and respectful, the views interesting and varied if a little less epic than the last few days.
Then, over to my left I caught a glimpse of green/blue water. There's a lake down there (with no camping anywhere) and it looked so beautiful.
I turned off! I know I said no figaries for a while but I do like my water!

Can you blame me?​

I flew down a long hill catching glimpses now and again until I caught it in its full glory! I wasn't wrong. Rather than turn around and rejoin the road, my original plan, I kept going, ignoring a very old and faded sign that declared Federal Land Do Not Pass and past a flock of vultures feasting on a very young calf.
The views were amazing! Except for a few motorbikes I had the road to myself. Well, I had to share with lizards and the most amazing array of butterflies of all sizes and colours! Only the noise of the gentle wind off the water! Bliss!

I had the idea that I might be able to circle back to where I started from so continued further until I came to a dam. Where I needed to cross was chained off, continuing on meant a very long detour around the rest of the lake and given the Federal tag I decided to turn around and head back.
You might think that would be boring, but not for me! Put me beside water and I'm happy!

Then I saw something that made it all even more worthwhile - a snake! There it was snaking across the road! WooHoo! My first, real, live snake in the wild! It took one look at me and slithered back from whence it came!
I had passed a little comedor on the way in so pulled in for some cold water and a pleasant chat with the lady and her daughter - the two sons were shy. At first I was charmed by hundred of baby chicks in a pen, but then the reality dawned on me that these ones wouldn't be living long.

Then up onto the main road and I continued on my way. Hot. Very hot.
It is very hard to describe the heat. First of all there is the sun and after it's up for a while it burns! I can feel it on my skin and especially on my back when positioned that way.
But that's the superficial heat. The real issue down here is the damp heat. It envelops me, heating me in a different way to the sun. It's a bit like a sauna; a heat that is both inside and outside of me.
The wind can help, but at times, it can just be a blast of hot, damp air. Let's just say that this pasty skinned, fair haired Irishman is suffering a bit!

You're never too old to learn something new, but sometimes you may be so old as to have forgotten some things. I'm not sure which is appropriate, but I'll share this here anyway: Don't sit on a shiny, new metal guard rail that is under a hot sun!

I remember short, hot climbs, gentle, cooler descents. In truth, any other day it would be described as flat, it's just that every climb reduced the wind and every descent increased it A pretty unremarkable ride grabbing shade wherever I could. As a reference for heat, my insulated water bottle had hot water! Actually hot. Not tepid, not warm, actual hot water! And that's the insulated one!

I pulled into a comedor for some shade and a long, long, cold drink then set off again.

I crossed the Cuota. Hot!​

Tim Tower had recommended a hotel so I went for there. A little expensive but it had airco, hot water, toilet seat, excellent wifi and a huge balcony.

Despite a fabulous thunderstorm there wasn't a drop of rain and it stayed oppressively hot all night long.
Outside, that is - inside was deliciously cool!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, June 01, 2021, Tehuantepec to Santo Domingo Zanatepec 111 km, Total KM 1219
Min meters 35, Max Meters 97
Total Climb 446 Total Descent 423
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 41
Ave Temp 35

It says a lot about the heat that I did not give any serious consideration to popping into, or detouring to, Salina Cruz and the ocean! There is one driving necessity - get out of this heat!
I am both amused and shocked at myself - a trip to the Pacific is not to be sneezed at yet here I am heading away from it!

I've made contact with quite a famous Warmshowers host and spoke to him this morning. He is still hosting and actually has another cyclist with him! My "plan" was to cover the distance in two days but maybe I could cover it in one?

Leaving town - a dead straight road heading into the sun!​

My first shock was stepping out of my air-conditioned room - it's a different world outside! A hot one!

I got through town and pulled in at the last Oxxo for coffee and a sandwich.
Back on the road I noticed two things - a hefty headwind and a small shoulder. As it turned out, neither was much of an issue. Traffic was light and respectful and in the early morning the wind is cooling.

This is a windy place! So windy, in fact, that I believe it has the largest windfarm in Latin America. Other cyclists have had terrible issues around here. Trucks are regularly blown off the road or onto their sides! I had a 25km dead straight run to Juchitán de Zaragoza to find out if I would too!
As it turned out, not so much. Yes, a headwind but as much as I dislike them, I can live with them. It wasn't the most inspiring ride, but fine.
The shoulder had many, many cracks, some that would swallow a front wheel. In my more imaginative moments, I was a cycle touring Indiana Jones making a getaway, loaded down with artefacts and avoiding earthquakes opening up the ground in front of me! Mock all you want - 25km dead straight into a headwind what would you do to keep sane?

Some of those cracks could do serious damage!​

Two stops in Juchitán de Zaragoza for juice and I continued on in a slightly different direction. Now the wind was a sidewind but nothing serious and some pretty respectful traffic made for a reasonable ride and a shoulder even made an appearance, nice and wide.

One of my juice stops! I just love the way the oranges are dumped on the road. There's a truck behind full of wooden crates of oranges. I assume once it moves off another takes its place and the fruit are crated and loaded. ​

La Venta was my planned stop for the night, about 55km on the clock and the same again to get to Rodrigo, my Warmshowers host. Time for food, a rest and a think.

After some food, drink and a rest in shade I decided to go for it! The chance to meet another touring cyclist and the fact that the wind Gods seemed to be in a generous mood sealed the deal!

This is quite typical here. A few shops and mechanics on the side of the road place bollards and rope or tyre "speed bumps" to slow down traffic and encourage them to stop!​

There were more sidewinds, but nothing too serious, a single, teasing km of a wonderful tailwind and then gradually the wind morphed and faded into a headwind.
The heat was something else. Stop for a photo and I was overwhelmed with humidity. Get going again and I was blasted with a hot wind.

What every cyclist wants to see - lots and lots of wind turbines, or as I like to call them windmills.​

The countryside side was green, very green and a few mountains loomed up in front of me. How fickle I am!! I wanted to be back with the "cool" guys!

Green, but hot and humid​

A couple of little villages meant a couple of cold drink stops. I was finding it important to get out of the sun as regularly as possible.
I'm also drinking a lot of water. I'll start the day on water but as it progresses I can't take much more. Then the electrolyte powder comes into play - although it seems to make me thirstier.

This scene almost derailed me! You can't hear the music but it was loud, lively and happy! People swimming in the river, it looked like food and drink was being served. If I went down I may never have made it back to the road! ​

At one stage I passed a section of road where it had rained. An extra layer of heat seemed to radiate up from the wet surface as I travelled over it.

Another cooling river​

As always the last 10km were tough! I rolled into town and did as I was told - ask for directions - because everyone knows Rorro.
Ha! The first lady I asked knew him, but not his address. I plonked down on a bench and guzzled an ice cold drink & called.
Five minutes later he's there in his car and all I had to do was follow him back to a mango orchard!

I had arrived!

Earlier in the day. ​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, June 02, 2021, Santo Domingo Zanatepec to San Pedro Tapanatepec 34 km, Total KM 1253
Min meters 51, Max Meters 178
Total Climb 318 Total Descent 228
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 43
Ave Temp 28

I didn't so much get my ass kicked today. I got it wrapped up and handed to me. All that was missing was a bow.

Early morning departure and the sun is desperate to make itself felt!​

Rodrigo, or Rorro, my Warmshowers host last night has been hosting cyclists (and others) for years. He's not a cyclist and won't travel until his kids are grown. He just likes to do it!

Max, the other cyclist, from Argentina is heading south towards home. When he gets there he wants to do a lap of Africa and that will finish his world tour, started 8 years ago.
Just once I'd like to meet a cycle tourist who's just out for a week!

I'm always interested in what happens after a long tour. I know myself that there can be a period of "adjustment" back to normal life. Some of the blogs or books I have read the author just "disappears". Some become "professional", using books, videos (YouTube), speaking engagements to make a living or some go "Corporate". But what of the normal Joe or Joanne?
When I asked Max (who left pretty much after high school) what he will do when he gets home he just said "do another lap!"

This scene captivated me. A mountain, mist, low cloud and a powerful sun.​

When I arrived it took me a while to get my head straight, I was very tired, hot and full of fluids. A bucket shower helped a lot!
Then dinner was served by Rorro's wife and I tried to keep up with all the Spanish.

It was an incredibly warm night, a threatened rain shower never appeared and sleep was difficult. Max ended up sleeping outside his tent. In a mango orchard, falling mangoes were an interesting diversion and when they fell on a galvanised roof even more so!

I heard Max up and about before the sun and slowly joined him. I was feeling the after effects of yesterday's long ride and the hot night. I was sore and tired. Physically tired and sleepy tired. He was setting off as I was getting organised. I may well be seeing him later.

Passing over a little village​

Here's another don't be a dumbass tip; If changing shorts remember that the new ones may not be as long as the old ones and the unthinking cyclist could end up with some bright pink bands across their legs!

Leaving about seven I couldn't resist stopping for a roadside juice and coffee, then it was a flattish 20 odd km to the next town. After that the mountains start! Yes!!

That was my first proper Warmshowers experience as a guest. Rodrigo uses his orchard with a covered space for a kitchen and another as a bathroom and place for a bucket shower. He says he can take up to five guests at a time. His generosity is immense.

Setting off it was so warm that a heat haze made it almost impossible to pick out the mountains. Close to me the countryside was very green, alternating between cultivated and wild.
I passed a Police checkpoint, no problem and also a very heavily guarded Police base.

I got to Tapanatepec and pulled in for breakfast in the shade. A very pleasant lady made me eggs and chorizo and later a man and his young son were all chat. The father wanted to know what was the point of travelling on a bike. I told him the usual things I say to people who ask me that question; that by travelling on a bike I can get to know a place, to feel a place. That by moving slowly from place to place I can see the differences between them. Travelling by bike the destination is not the important thing - the journey is.
Then he asked me if I didn't have any problems with traffic and it was the perfect chance to explain my idea. I told him that the last couple of days the traffic had been very respectful of me, but back around Oaxaca not so much. In fairness, he wasn't dismissive and seemed to ponder on what I had said.

Agua de Papaya​

I bought some more water and headed off.

Right outside of town the road starts to rise. No shoulder, but hardly any traffic. Lots of greenery offered chances of shade. About 30km up there is a lake where I hope to camp.

Leaving town​

At 10 am the temperature is hitting 40 and it is destroying me. Every part of me is soaking. This is different heat, much more sapping than higher temperatures I've experienced before.
Sweating is supposed to be the body's way to cool down but it wasn't working on me. I started to feel like a trout en papillote, slowly steaming myself - except I was nothing as fragrant as a nice, light wine and delicate herbs!
I wear a buff around my neck to act as a facemask when needed and as protection from sunburn around my neck. These days it is absolutely soaking from sweat.

A vibrant, lively green​

I stopped a few times in the shade but it was dawning on me that this was the biggest challenge so far. I was struggling physically, overheating and guzzling water.

In fairness, though, the landscape was wonderful, lush and green and now I was able to see further because the sun that was making me miserable was weaving magic all around me.

At one stage going around a bend, slowly, the cooking became a bit much and I became lightheaded and a bit disoriented. I pulled in at the next shade and sat for a while.
At this rate I had four, probably five hours or longer to get to the next town, never mind the destination. In the hottest part of the day.

Time for plan B.

I rested a bit more, rolled gently back down the hill and found a hotel.

I came down faster than I went up!​

I showered, rested under a fan and made two posts here. That passed about 5 hours with slow internet!

A bite to eat and bed.

The life of the big travelling touring cyclist!

That beautiful morning scene again! (Phone, not camera)​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, June 03, 2021, San Pedro Tapanatepec to Rosendo Salazar 38 km, Total KM 1291
Min meters 59, Max Meters 871
Total Climb 970 Total Descent 325
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 37
Ave Temp 27

Dread is the right word.
I was dreading today.
Yesterday had been a bit of a shock to the system.
I was up just after 5 and rolling out the gate (necessitating getting someone up) at 6:05.
Still dark, I headed to Oxxo, got a coffee and 4 liters of cold water. Climbed on and headed off.

Leaving town I crossed over the Cuota, an alternative for me. Another day in the lowlands then a climb, most likely more gentle but with less shade and a whole lot less services. Not that this was much better - 28km to the next town. All uphill!

It seemed like the whole world was waking up and I was desperately trying to sneak over the hills before they awoke and defeated me again​

What I had seen yesterday in bright sunshine was now hidden in shadow and mist. Atmospheric, certainly, but I could do without gloomy imagery!

Like yesterday, traffic was incredibly light and in the still morning easy to hear far away.

Despite Gizmo reading only 26 it didn't take long for me to be soaking wet. Like yesterday, it had the opposite of a cooling effect.

Hard work but beautiful. Greenery ran right to the road, sometimes onto it. At other times it concealed terrifying drops to the valley below.​

I always think language is very important, even when we're talking to ourselves. I was finding it hard not to regard yesterday as a failure and despite no sun yet, today was shaping up similarly - lots of sweat and slow progress so it was a surprise to reach my u-turn spot from yesterday after about 25 minutes and 300 meters of climbing. It took me about 90 minutes yesterday.
By rights, that should have been a boost, but negative thoughts can be a bugger to shift.

If you've ever fished for pike you'll know that their teeth are angled inwards. A fish caught in the mouth of a pike will tear all its flesh off trying to get out of that mouth. My "pike tooth" was next, a short, sharp descent followed by even more climbing. Once down that hill I was committed!

My first sight of the sun! I was extremely conflicted - on the one hand the sun meant more heat, more difficulty, but on the other..... Just look at it! ​

At about 400 meters of altitude I started to notice that I was feeling better - the humidity was less. The sun was coming out to play but there were lots of trees for shade and without the humidity temperature seemed less important. It took a little over 90 minutes but now I was starting to feel more positive about the whole day. Such a contrast to yesterday!

With a brighter mind I was able to appreciate my surroundings all the better!

What's to dread? All those scattered boulders put me in mind of a giant toddler who threw all his pebbles away in a tantrum!​

Definitely shades of jungle here! The wildness encroaches right up to the road when it's not far, far below it. There are still some pretty impressive (and scary!) drops to one side camouflaged by plants.
With so little traffic I often have the road all to myself, just me, the bike and the birds calling out to each other. And these are exotic birds with all kinds of exotic voices and accents!

The advantage of slow and quiet travel - the natives don't mind me so much​

Depending on the sun the land is in shade, bright sun or all the variations in between. I can look down on a valley with mist rising, mysterious and alive or look up at the sun blasting the rocky crown of a hill, casting it in gold while in the opposite direction a row of mountains looms out of a misty gloom.

It's not only CDMX that has amazing tree and root displays!​

It's hard work, but the reward is all around me.

I crossed into a new State, Chiapas, to be greeted by a road crew working on the road. Big smiles all around.

My destination today is a bit vague. There's a lake further up the road that gets a lot of mention on IOverlander. I'm hoping to camp beside the lake.

I love this shot! All the variations of green and the clear contrast between sun and shade ​

Earlier than I had dreamed of, in better form than I expected and in better shape than I could have anticipated I rolled into a little village after 28 km. Looking forward to sit down and eat I was disappointed to find nowhere open! The curse of arriving too early! I bought a banana, some sweet bread and a cold drink and sat in a bit of shade then on again for the last section.

A cliff is always good for a bit of drama!​

Some ups, some downs and I arrived at the few shops that marked my turn off. Through a sleepy little village, down a few dirt roads and I met a couple of characters. Both a few sheets to the wind they were very friendly and confirmed I was heading the right way. One of them was winding himself up to ask me for money but his amigo was having none of it.
I met a guy digging up the road - a big smile told me all I needed to know but he assured me no problem to camp. There's a large covered area hosting a basic comedor and quite a few covered picnic tables - and a lake!

Home!

So, what does a stranger do for an afternoon along the shores of a lake in a small town in the Mexican State of Chiapas?

He relaxes.

I brewed a pot of coffee at one of the picnic tables and read my book. It was unusually blustery and threatening rain but still pleasant to sit out.
I watched a man fishing with a net in the shallows of the lake. After some mediocre hauls he landed almost a full net of silvery, yellowish fish and laughed when I applauded. Later we chatted and he showed me his catch.

I chatted to a few random dogs that came over, curious, friendly but cautious.

I also spoke to the German driver of a Campervan parked up well away from me. He was foraging mangoes that are ripe and falling from the trees.

Later, I had an early dinner in the little restaurant before it closed and then set up my tent under a large covered area by the lake. And I read some more as the wind died and the sun peeked out of the clouds.

In the morning the sun should be rising over the lake but right now I'm looking at the hills on the far shore, a horse my only company and the sound of birds discussing their day's happenings.

(Technically, taken the next day)

Later still, through the mesh of my tent - fireflies! I saw my first fireflies in the wild!
Scared the bejaysus out of me at first as it seemed like people with torches were running across the lake but I calmed my imagination, put down the kindle and let nature entertain and impress me.

For a day that started out predawn full of dread it finished up pretty well!


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, June 04, 2021, Rosendo Salazar to El Aguacero 75 km, Total KM 1366

Min meters 513, Max Meters 790
Total Climb 941 Total Descent 874
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 42
Ave Temp 30


Some days just start off perfect!

Up with the sun, a pot of coffee while getting organised, a slow cycle through a friendly village (everyone and I mean everyone I met smiled and waved!) and back on the road before I know it!

Strangely, Gizmo doesn't have the main road on its maps! The little village and the lake, yes, the occasional sideroad I encounter, yes, but the actual road? Nope!

My lake from back up on the road​

Depending on where the sun was hitting there were either clear views or scenes hidden behind mist or cloud. Glorious!

The road was pretty straight and was the very definition of rolling! Up and down! Rinse and repeat! In the cool morning it felt like the kms were flying past.

At about 25km in I came to a little village. No comedores open but I did stop for some fresh agua de coco served in a plastic bag with a straw. Sitting on the side of the road in the shade sucking down deliciously cool coconut milk it's hard not to think I'm the luckiest b*****d in all of existence!

Setting off again the traffic was notably heavier and the road narrower. But still! A great morning to ride!
At a Police checkpoint a queue was building up. "An accident" said the Policeman to me but from what I could make out it looked like a shooting. No ambulance on the scene, the body loaded into the back of a Police pick-up and hauled off. A lot of blood on the side of the road, armed soldiers everywhere.

Off again and at the next town I pulled in for chicken and shade. Time to figure out my destination! I'm preferring camping so am going to aim for a campground near some waterfalls. If the traffic stays like this I may have to go the long way and take the Cuota for the shoulder. I'll figure that out when I get there!

Somebody took the "P"!​

There were some absolutely wonderful "road shots" today - views of the road in front of me. Typically a straight road, either ascending or descending and vaguely disappearing into vividly green hills and mountains in the distance. One especially stood out. The road dropped in front of me, levelled off, dropped again, level then regained the meters in two steps again. The road was a pale grey/white colour that contrasted perfectly with the greenery that grew right up to it and again, the vivid life of the hills it climbed into highlighted the haziness of the road so far away.
There isn't a photo of this as it was just too busy and too narrow to stop.
I enjoyed every single centimeter of it!

In brighter sunshine, heat wasn't too much of an issue because I was moving at a steady pace and those mountains looming in front of me!​

Setting off again after a good feed the heat was a factor - but nowhere near as much as lower down. At the top of a shortish climb I spied an Oxxo and pulled in reflexively. Coffee! Topped up with water I set off again. Heavy traffic was a distraction and limited photos. A wall of mountains were spread across my path and there was no way around them!

When I did come to the intersection with the Cuota I pulled in and observed for a few minutes. Most of the traffic was taking the Cuota so I'll stay on the Libre. If my camping option was open I had about 13km to go. Take the Cuota and it was more like 33.

It was a slow 13km, partly because it was pretty tough, the heat requiring many stops in shade, but mainly because it was so damn impressive! There were some fantastic views to be had. Stretching off and fading into the distance I got to see the road I had been traveling all day - straight through the valley. I've no idea why, but it impressed me greatly! I think I could have tackled Mt. Everest, on the bike, after that!

I love this shot! From high up I can see the road I was travelling all morning cutting through the valley. I've no idea why it spoke to me but it really energised me​

Instead, the land levelled out and I was flying. Until I saw a shop. A cold drink and some crisps from a young woman with the most radiant smile who was already chatting to an older lady. My Spanish must be coming along since I had the two of them in stitches. Smiley Señorita confirmed that my camping place was open and that I should be able to camp.

Flying through the green valley on a quiet road​

I flew off, stopped at the last village to top up water again and turned off to go 3km down a rough, then steep and rough road. I have no idea how I'm going to get out tomorrow!
It's a nature park with a famous waterfall and they allow camping!

I'm in and home!

Heading down towards my camping spot - a sheer drop and not a guardrail in sight. I could hear water rushing far, far below​

There was a large group at the carpark and three tents already under a covered area. The lady who took my money had explained the group would be leaving shortly and another couple camping spoke no Spanish. There was something amusing in the way she said that to me - possibly the greatest murderer of languages in existence! I felt like a member of the exclusive Español Hablando club!
I had the whole area to choose from for my tent but decided to wait until things calmed down. A pot of coffee brewed under a small covered area turned out to be smart because as soon as it was ready the heavens opened.
Once the big group had packed up and left and the few remaining stragglers it was only the campers - myself and another couple. Two tents had disappeared and they were setting their own one up. Room for me under the shelter!
(The third one, in a corner, was never used. Perhaps for a security guard at night).
I approached them, asking (in Spanish) if they spoke Spanish or English. Español was the reply so I introduced myself and suggested using the space for my tent too. No problem.
And then they ignored me! Hushed conversations, backs turned. Nada!

I had a cold shower, did some laundry and went off to explore the waterfall. Only 200 meters the young girl had told me before she left for the evening with a radiant smile. I'm a sucker for a smiling lady and in this case, this old dog isn't learning any new tricks!
Straight down on steps slippery after the rain. Enclosed by plants and trees it was stiflingly hot and humid. It may be 200 meters as the crow flies but it was a bloody tough walk!
At the bottom light was fading and paths were little rivers after all the rain! I started back to my camp.
It wasn't the most pleasant walk ever and not for the first time this week a stranger would assume I had gone swimming fully clothed!

After the rain and in the fading light Dumbass set off down into a canyon! Not my brightest move!​

I set up at a quiet spot away from the couple and ate a supper of chorizo and crackers while reading my book. I saw the most enormous and ugly toad and then more fireflies darting amongst the trees.
Really, who needs company?

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Saturday, June 05, 2021, El Aguacero to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 59km Total KM 1425

Min meters 503, Max Meters 1064
Total Climb 521 Total Descent 586
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 37
Ave Temp 28


I may have mentioned this before….
Sometime in the past year someone posted on CGOAB of a trip planned two or three years in advance with an incredible amount of detail from daily stops to road surfaces. He'd even gone so far as to rate (and colour code) each day in terms of enjoyment.
I don't mean to be critical, it's just that such a plan is beyond my comprehension. I was thinking about him today and what he would make of my day!

Setting off up a bloody big hill, ridiculously steep and full of gravel. The weather matched my mood ​

Sometime during the night the heavens opened again - wider than before. No wind, no howling, just a deluge of water that lasted a couple of hours.
The noise of it on the corrugated roof woke me up. I lay there and thought just how I really don't have a comprehension of what "Rainy Season" actually means and how lucky I have been not to get caught in such deluges.

Awake like that in the middle of the night it was hardly a surprise that I overslept. As I was crawling out, the other couple were packing up their car. At least she gave a morning greeting.
I set about making coffee and they were off - not even a goodbye. Most unusual!

Since it's still raining, albeit softly, I'm in no rush. The climb out of this place is not something to look forward to!

Looking back on the climb out of the park and hoping that I'd meet no traffic!​

I got organised in relative luxury, being able to do all my packing under a roof. Last to go on the bike is Mazi - nowhere to be found!
"To lose one tiger is unfortunate, to lose two sounds like carelessness" to misquote the great Oscar Wilde.
I hunted everywhere. Nowhere to be found.
I was fuming! Stolen!!!!

I set off up the monster hill, narrow, steep, gravelly, sandy and wet. My "walk" last night had taken a lot out of me and this was hardly the best way to start my day's travelling. Hot, damp and slippery.

I made it to the main road and promptly turned the wrong way - I needed something cold and possibly a breakfast. Sure enough, I found a little old lady to cook some eggs and chorizo and I had a long, cool drink. I still had water - I just needed something cold.

I took very few photos today. I was grumpy and not in the mood to be inspired. In fairness, there was little to inspire, but that's not normally a problem​

Back on the road again, dry but humid, cloudy and damp I had more straight roads and rolling hills - more up than down. Traffic was heavyish at times, but respectful in the main.
A provisional plan was to head to another IOverlander spot not too far away, but it was 12km uphill on rough roads to camp in a field and I didn't trust the weather for the road or the field.

I don't know how to classify a day like today as good, bad or anything in between. In a grumpy mood it was a case of grinding out the distance. Another day I'd be singing. ​

This is when I started thinking about Mr. Planning. The countryside was "nice", the road ok, the challenge reasonable without being excessive. I was working hard, but comfortable. It's my head that makes the journey interesting and my head was humid, tired and annoyed at the loss of another tiger.
Another day I'd be zipping along singing, looking out for all the details that make a day on the road interesting and unique.

How can we plan for how we feel?

A shoulder appeared as the road got busier​

Approaching a largish town I took the ring road to avail of a petrol station to top up my tyres, then pulled in for a coffee. From now on it was uphill.

Thankfully, after the town I had a decent shoulder and could relax on a longish ascent with busyish traffic. A regular rain gulley gave lots of places to stop safely and rest.

Finding it hard to be inspired!​

Then I was over the top and all downhill to Tuxtla! You know it's going to be fun when a sign advises you to test your brakes!

The shoulder had some dodgy sections including an ever present groove made by truck tyres and a venomous black cloud was approaching.

Approaching Tuxtla looking in the positive direction​

Tuxtla is big! Much bigger than I expected, busier too and pretty chaotic. I've gotten used to the topes being signed well in advance the last days but not here! My welcome to Tuxtla was almost being thrown by one particularly nasty little bugger.

Approaching Tuxtla looking in the pesimistic direction!​

I had been hoping to camp in hotel grounds but that was a no. Rain was coming and it was beside the main road. I pulled out Booking.com and found a hotel on the outskirts. Getting through town was an adventure in itself!

I finally arrived and set about washing all the clothing I've been wearing the past few days. Stinky and muddy!

And that's when I found Mazi! In my little backpack! I'd planned to photo him at the waterfall the evening before and forgot to unpack him as the walk had beaten me up so much!

How do you plan for mispacking a tiger?

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/