Struggling to remove pedals

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
I installed some shimano M520 pedals on my 105 cranks 5 years ago and haven't touched them since.

I've been trying to remove them for the past week on and off - I've soaked them in WD40 daily, but they won't budge at all.

I've been using this spanner: View attachment 572814 but seem to have bent one of the arms in my efforts.

Any tips?

(yes I know which way they turn)

So which way are you turning the spanner ?

My pedal spanner has a sleeker handle than yours - I can put it inside the aluminium tube that's the handle of the garden rake for another 5 foot of leverage.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Crank pointing forward (2:30 o'clock), robust spanner (at least 9" long) securely on pedal axle flats, facing backwards (9 o'clock), solid support under frame (directly under BB shell), welly end of spanner with coal hammer (care). Shock action.
Bar extension allows torque multiplication, but not as much as the instantaneous Nm of a 5lbs coal hammer at speed. The extension bends if you hit the end of it reducing the shock effect and torque 'spike' that's needed.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Standing on the pedal means you can't make sure the jaws stay securely on the flats (unless you use a toestrap or summat, maybe, or you have a helper).
Same goes for the long pipe option.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
Standing on the pedal means you can't make sure the jaws stay securely on the flats (unless you use a toestrap or summat, maybe, or you have a helper).
Same goes for the long pipe option.
It does require careful balancing...

I tried doing the same thing with a chainwhip and a stuck lock ring - I broke the chainwhip!
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
For really bad ones, remove the crank and, if necessary, the chainrings. Ensure you can get the pedal spanner and crank at about 135 degrees to each other, using the floor as a fulcrum.

Pour boiling water over the end of the crank and IMMEDIATELY get it on the floor and bounce hard on the end of the crank and the spanner. The crank expands more than the pedal axle.

The torque for fitting pedals is surprisingly high - 45Nm average (Shimano). Precession usually tightens loose ones into the crank, but may not do so if the pedal is merely finger-tight.
 

weareHKR

Senior Member
There's probably every suggestion under the sun in this thread now from people's own experiences.
We have all been there & tried most of them at some point, my last one finished using medium size Stillsons with an extension pipe. Completely destroyed the peddle but did the job.
I would also recommend running a tap through the threads before fitting lightly greased new pedals.
Good luck!
 

monkers

Veteran
Have you access to a blowtorch? Apply heat.
Not if they are hollowtech cranks. They'll then need replacing for deffo.
 
Last edited:

monkers

Veteran
See if you can make your own version of one of these instead.
 

Attachments

  • pedal.jpg
    pedal.jpg
    18.5 KB · Views: 15
  • Like
Reactions: C R

SheilaH

Guest
Not if they are hollowtech cranks. They'll then need replacing for deffo.

You are absolutely right! I hadn't spotted that they are 105 in the OP, and therefore hollowtech :eek:

What Monkers is alluding to is that hollowtech cranks consist of two clamshells bonded with some sort of epoxy glue, and heat could damage it.
 
Top Bottom