SKS Mudguards

[Fnaar]

I got mine when I got back into cycling 8 yrs ago and bought a bike. Bought SKS guards to go with it. Fiddled about putting them on for an hour or so... took it to bike shop (which then was about 500 yards away... now the nearest is 10 miles) and got them to do it.

 

[cyberknight]

I got some sks raceblades for the boardman as the head of my local CC asked members to put some on for winter riding.

The back one i managed to get on with a fair amount of bending on the arms but the front still rubs on the tyre no matter how straight i have the arms , heck i even tried hack-sawing a bit off the bottom of the fender but it still sits incorrectly.Could be the bladed forks that the boardman has but i am going to bin them and buy another set of crud`s as i have used them for a couple of years and i have never had a problem with them.

 

[MacB]

the plastic guard itself isn't always straight, this can be sorted by boiling a kettle and manipulating it via the steam

 

[HLaB]

the plastic guard itself isn't always straight, this can be sorted by boiling a kettle and manipulating it via the steam

I think my rear on the road bike is good (the stays sort it if it isnt) but every front guard I've had seems to lurch slightly to the left at the front and isn't corrected by stays, I might try taking a kettle to the old guards.

 

[MacB]

I think my rear on the road bike is good (the stays sort it if it isnt) but every front guard I've had seems to lurch slightly to the left at the front and isn't corrected by stays, I might try taking a kettle to the old guards.

yep, it was the front I had to do it for, on two different sets, I think the rear gets pulled into line better with the 3/4 fixing points.

 

[User482]

SKS guards require an hour of swearing at them, trying to get them to fit. Once done, all you'll ever do is swear by them.

 

[400bhp]

I got some sks raceblades for the boardman as the head of my local CC asked members to put some on for winter riding.

The back one i managed to get on with a fair amount of bending on the arms but the front still rubs on the tyre no matter how straight i have the arms , heck i even tried hack-sawing a bit off the bottom of the fender but it still sits incorrectly.Could be the bladed forks that the boardman has but i am going to bin them and buy another set of crud`s as i have used them for a couple of years and i have never had a problem with them.

Put something between the forks and the bottom of each arm. This will cause the mudguard to sit up a bit more at the point furthest away from the brakes. I used a bit of old innertube to do it.

I've stuck Crud Roadracers on mine now - more of a permanent winter fitment but they do fit better than the sks. I will keep the sks for the wet summer days as they are easy to fit and remove.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Bike shop or classifieds. I've marked where the stays need to be cut but won't until I have sorted the real problem now. Otherwise, to add to the experience, I won't be able to sell the ****ers given that the length I need might be too small for a prospective buyer.

The real problem now is the rear fitting that claws underneath the guard and bolts to the caliper bolt at the top - it won't allow clearance. Part of this is to do with the angle set up by the attachment hole at the bottom of the rear guard, level to the hole on the rear side of the seat tube (around about the same height as the front derailleur or thereabouts). This is creating too much angle that is rubbing toward the top of the wheel. Can't see how fiddling with the stays will alter this as the stays on the rear are aft and this problem angle starts fore (of the rear wheel).

And to top the evening, the bolt or retainer, not sure which, that attachs the caliper to the seatstays won't do up properly, leaving me also with a useless caliper and no doubt a buggered thread! That at least I can't blame on SKS...

 

[Paul.G.]

Black-stripe up your back or rattling crappy guards ? - believe me, after a few miles of rattling and rubbing on the tyres, they may well end up in the same place as mine did, in a skip at the side of the road on a ride out. Whatever you do, test ride first before you do a long one with them fitted or they will drive you insane !

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Well, test ride aside I've got the blighters done. I found that the angle on the rear that was rubbing was sorted with a bolt and a few washers, lessening the angle and the stays, buggers they were to cut, worked a treat. I found that despite all the tools and instructions that invoking the Greek God Hephaestus was much more helpful. That and a few cans of Thatcher's Gold.

Thanks again to all assorted personage.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Nope, how wrong I was, they're rubbing, barely moving infact under the right psi. Don' think these are going to work, it's the bit that attaches to the caliper bolt that is causing the problem. there just isn't the clearance. Same on the front.

Gutted.

 

[threebikesmcginty]

there just isn't the clearance.

What size tyres are you using MR?

 

[Monsieur Remings]

What size tyres are you using MR?

23cs mate, pro 3s. Actually got the rear to work without the middle bolt but the same can't happen with the front as the similar attchment is riveted and the only other two attachments, the stays, are too far back to be good enough alone. At least on the rear there is the additional hole at the bottom to attach to the back of the seat tube with the stays at the other end.

Taken them off now so have the rather ridiculous situation of a dedicated winter bike without frigging mudguards. Seriously pissed off but doubt that Ribble will send them back on my behalf and refund the money.

 

[Alembicbassman]

I tend to flip the bike upside down, remove both wheels fit guards to brake bridges fit stays to eyelets, place wheels in lugs and adjust stays and mark length with a scratch, stays then cut with a hacksaw and refitted/bent to provide clearance on both sides.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

I tend to flip the bike upside down, remove both wheels fit guards to brake bridges fit stays to eyelets, place wheels in lugs and adjust stays and mark length with a scratch, stays then cut with a hacksaw and refitted/bent to provide clearance on both sides.

Thanks, have done all that. Had them fitted, adjusted, stays hacksawed down to size, the rear bolted to caliper and same with the front as well as the other fittings on the chainstay eyelets...but the middle attachment is the problem on both front and rear and after spending a number of hours trying to find a way around the problem have decided that there just isn't the clearance. I'm not going to use string or cable ties to help the show along either.

I've no doubt on reading some of the comments here about them that they are very good, if you can get them to fit. Sadly, I can't and despite being a rather inexperienced fettler I just know these aren't going to work and that the only way to get them to work is to fit them improperly without some fitting meaning invariably they will shoot up sooner or later.

£12 if anyone's interested...