Shimano cassette installation

[martint235]

My touring method is an old bit of rag twisted round the cassette nice and tight and with a bit of luck and skinned knuckles I can hold the cassette still enough to undo the locking nut.

I still think if you do the lock nut tight enough, you do need a chain whip......

I suppose with an old rag and some gloves on you could do it but essentially you've just fashioned yourself a poor version of a chain whip!!!

I'm wincing just at the thought of holding on to my cassette and trying to remove the lock nut!!!

 

[mcshroom]

If you haven't got a chain whip, you could always use the Next Best Thing

 

[Angelfishsolo]

If you haven't got a chain whip, you could always use the Next Best Thing

As I say, no need http://www.flickr.com/photos/angelfishsolo/6079400271/

 

[Angelfishsolo]

[QUOTE 1519987"]
You're now saying something different. Earlier you suggested that the freewheel doesn't follow the direction of the unscrewing nut and that you only needed to use your hands. ;-)

A correctly torqued lockring will require more than a bare hand to stop the freewheel turning.
[/quote]

I believe I corrected myself in a later post. If I did not I apologise. The nut I remove here http://www.flickr.com/photos/angelfishsolo/6079400271/ was last tightened by my LBS.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

[QUOTE 1519989"]
The nut isn't tight enough.

I'd also be wary of revealing your name on here. The place is full of nut jobs.
[/quote]

Good point. OK video will now be taken down. Better tell my LBS off next time I am in there then

 

[mickle]

Ok, I'll add my numpty question: why do some cassette removal tools have a pin and some don't?

It's good practice to reinstall the QR (or drive side nut) just tight enough to prevent the tool (such as that shown on the right) from slipping when undoing the first half a turn. At which point you remove it and spin the lock ring (or freewheel) off by hand. The pin welded in place up the middle of the other tool achieves the same thing.

 

[sbseven]

Cassette lockrings should be torqued in the range of 30-50Nm, which is pretty tight.

 

[Zoiders]

Cassette lockrings should be torqued in the range of 30-50Nm, which is pretty tight.

I would have to say no to that.

 

[Herzog]

Good point. OK video will now be taken down. Better tell my LBS off next time I am in there then

I didn't see the video, what was the trick?

 

[ianrauk]

I didn't see the video, what was the trick?

There was no trick. He simply hadn't tightened up the lock ring to the correct torque

 

[Angelfishsolo]

There was no trick. He simply hadn't tightened up the lock ring to the correct torque

It was tightened up by my LBS.

 

[ianrauk]

It was tightened up by my LBS.

Then why didn't you tighten it to the correct torque and tell your bike shop that they hadn't tightened it properly?

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Then why didn't you tighten it to the correct torque and tell your bike shop that they hadn't tightened it properly?

Because I didn't know until now it wasn't tight enough. That said I have undone other cassettes in the same manner before.

 

[Sittingduck]

You DO need a chain whip to remove a correctly tightened lockring. It shouldn't be uber-tight but at least a few notches with an adjustable spanner, after taking up the initial slack, by hand.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Then I have been very lucky in all the time I have ridden the bike. Anyway concensus is one is needed OP