Shimano 105 5800 FD won't stop rubbing

[User6179]

I've had this before and solved it by moving the mech up the seat tube a bit - the shape of the rear plate on the mech seems to need it to be a bit higher

I was going to suggest this also but I think the mech is the one that screws to the downtube and you cant move.

 

[MikeJD]

Disconnect the cable - then set the L limit - reconnect & tension as appropiate. But if this is a new bike you should have taken it back to the shop instead of all the messing about you have done

Yeah that's what I did, disconnected the cable, but still there's not enough travel to create a space between the FD and the chain.

That's my main issue, the shops down in London and I'm in Yorkshire.

It's the only place that had this bike in a size XL frame, all the local Giant stores had no XL stock.

I know this was always a risk when buying things online, I've contacted the shop and they'll be getting back to me later today, initially they said "it's supposed to rub slightly on those derailleurs".

 

[MikeJD]

I've had this before and solved it by moving the mech up the seat tube a bit - the shape of the rear plate on the mech seems to need it to be a bit higher nowadays. 1990's groupsets I always remember worked best when the mechs were as low as possible so the outer cage just cleared the outer ring but newer ones seem to like a bit more clearance.

I was going to suggest this also but I think the mech is the one that screws to the downtube and you cant move.

That's correct, the mech is a Braze-on type attached to the frame. I did try to move the height of the mech on the Braze-on mount, but I was hesitant about going outside that 1-3mm zone recommended by Shimano.

 

[andsaw]

Is the front derailleur cage straight as in parallel with the big ring.

 

[minininjarob]

I've contacted the shop and they'll be getting back to me later today, initially they said "it's supposed to rub slightly on those derailleurs".

I don’t have experience of that particular group set but that sounds like rubbish to me.

 

[MikeJD]

Is the front derailleur cage straight as in parallel with the big ring.

Yeah, and I've used carious methods of getting that straight, including using the support screw.

I don’t have experience of that particular group set but that sounds like rubbish to me.

I'm thinking the same, I don't think it's too much to ask to have the lowest gear not contacting the derailleur body, there's a lot of hills around me, so I'll be in that gear a lot.

It says in the manual a 0 – 0.5 mm gap should be achievable. (http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RAFD001-05-ENG.pdf - Page 20)

 

[MikeJD]

Just spoke with the shop, the mechanic said he took a similar model off display and what solved the issue (created the gap) was not only backing out the L screw, but backing out the H screw too. I'm hoping doing this will solve it, but slightly concerned I may of already tried that. Failing that he said to take it to a bike shop, which is all good and well but that's going to cost :/

I'll be trying the H screw as soon as I'm in from work.

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Yeah, the shifter is in low position, not low trim.

The problem is, when in low, it won't go far enough towards the frame to make a 0.5-1mm clearance from the plastic insert.

Low adjustment is made in Low Trim position not Low on FD5800.

Have you got 4 positions on the FD when the cable is connected up and tensioned properly?

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf

 

[SpokeyDokey]

@MikeJD

Looking at your photo I'm wondering if your FD is a 5801 - one of the fairly new short throw FD's. Is it?

 

[lazyfatgit]

I checked this morning and it looks to be the correct way around, would there be a definitive way to check?

Here's an image (excuse the socks!):

View attachment 422854

Looks correct. The shoulder on one side is wider than on the other.

Is the outside of the cage parallel with the outer ring?

 

[MikeJD]

@MikeJD

Looking at your photo I'm wondering if your FD is a 5801 - one of the fairly new short throw FD's. Is it?

My FD looks exactly like the one in this manual: http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RAFD001-05-ENG.pdf

 

[MikeJD]

After unscrewing the H limit, I was able to get the clearance in the lowest front derailleur position (low trim), however I couldn’t get the clearance perfect at all extremities and trim positions. Even though I followed Shimano’s manual, it seems like it comes down to a millimetre here or a slight barrel adjuster turn there, in order to get it all exact.

When i’m shifting up from low trim to low, I have to move the shifting lever slightly further than the first ‘click’ to get the amount of movement needed, is this common? I think it’s something I’ll have to live with until the next service.

When finishing up and inspecting the cable routing I noticed something concerning, the rear derailleur hasn’t been routed through the plastic guide on the bottom of the frame. I imagine this will cause issues and damage the frame? I’d not be confident trying to reroute this, as the cable would need it’s end snipping, removing from it’s housing and then the rear derailleur setting up again.

 

[SpokeyDokey]

After unscrewing the H limit, I was able to get the clearance in the lowest front derailleur position (low trim), however I couldn’t get the clearance perfect at all extremities and trim positions. Even though I followed Shimano’s manual, it seems like it comes down to a millimetre here or a slight barrel adjuster turn there, in order to get it all exact.

When i’m shifting up from low trim to low, I have to move the shifting lever slightly further than the first ‘click’ to get the amount of movement needed, is this common? I think it’s something I’ll have to live with until the next service.

When finishing up and inspecting the cable routing I noticed something concerning, the rear derailleur hasn’t been routed through the plastic guide on the bottom of the frame. I imagine this will cause issues and damage the frame? I’d not be confident trying to reroute this, as the cable would need it’s end snipping, removing from it’s housing and then the rear derailleur setting up again.

View attachment 423099
View attachment 423100

OMG that's terrible coming direct from a shop.

 

[MikeJD]

Ok - that's one of what I consider to be a nasty piece of work.


OMG that's terrible coming direct from a shop.

Don't , I really don't wanna get angry with the retailer and stuff like that, as they've been helpful so far. Just typical, the rear derailleur seems to be working perfect. I've emailed the retailer, let's see what they say.

Will I be ok going on a ride tonight with the cable resting on the frame like that?

 

[SpokeyDokey]

My FD looks exactly like the one in this manual: http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RAFD001-05-ENG.pdf

Yes, that's one of the new generation short throw mech's designed to eliminate the long arm of the previous mech's thus giving increased clearance for wider tyres.

I gave up with mine on my new Trek earlier this year and fitted the older model instead.

Have a read of this thread (in a nutshell, despite spending hours on it I couldn't get it dialed in properly, nor could a couple of shop mechanics and Trek Technical in The States were not too enamoured either):

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/ultegra-front-shifter.230199/post-5210317