Seized seatpost...VICTORY!

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User32269

Guest
I for one don't fancy my frame ending up like the spinach can! :whistle:
classic-popeye-03.jpg.cf.jpg

Oh well do it your way then!
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
[QUOTE 5090314, member: 43827"]If you're feeling lucky why not try the Russian Roulette method.

Just undo the bolt and ride around as normal. It will give sometime, but you'll never know when. Will make the cycling more exciting.[/QUOTE]
Also reportedly works for alloy wheels seized onto hubs on cars. Loosen of the wheel nuts a turn or two then drive around the block and down a cobbled street. Never had to try it but have still to remove 3 of the 4 wheels on my latest car and the first one was stubborn!
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
If you can't get plus gas, shock and unlock (various brands, freeze spray with lubricant) is more common but not as powerful.

Take the bottom bracket out, flip the bike and squirt some down the seat tube, as well as applying it through any collar bolt hole or slot.
 
40% ammonia dropped into the seized collar, then heat it up, then clamp the seat, and use the bike as leverage. If that doesn’t work, saw the seat off a little way above the seat tube, and collapse the seat tube in with pliers / stillsons.
 

davidphilips

Phil Pip
Location
Onabike
My shed has all sorts of rubbish....but a slide hammer no!!

Perhaps try making a diy slide hammer? Some old metal, time and skill required?


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCI9QoDOhzw
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Diesel can be effective at freeing seized components. I swear by leaving small seized objects immersed in a container full of the stuff. Sometimes it can help more to use hot diesel, although you need to be careful how you heat it and to what temperature, bearing in mind it is flammable.
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
If it's an alloy post in a steel frame, alloy expands faster than steel so heating it wouldn't be very helpful. I guess once it has cooled down again the bond could be broken and it may come out easier then. Or if you have access to a large freezer...

Steel on steel should be easier to deal with. I'd remove the bottom bracket, plug the end of the seat post and invert the bike and pour some diesel into the seat tube and let it sit for a few days. I've never had a steel seatpost stuck but a good soaking in diesel had always worked for steel stems stuck in ancient roadsters.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
If it's an alloy post in a steel frame, alloy expands faster than steel so heating it wouldn't be very helpful. I guess once it has cooled down again the bond could be broken and it may come out easier then.

The differential expansion will still create thermal stresses between the two parts that are stuck together. As you say, it probably won't help whilst still hot but if you dose the join area with some sort of penetrating agent whilst hot, it may well soak in better than if done cold, and the corrosion seal may be broken after cooling. Stubbornly seized items may take multiple heating/dosing attempts if you want to separate the parts non-destructively.
Before anyone resorts to oxy-acetylene or similar drastic methods, just be aware a lugged brazed frame will not stand being heated to the same temperature as a welded one.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
I stick my finger in fresh engine oil and work it round the inside of the seat tube. If there is any surface rust inside the tube - there often is - the rough surface will hold some of the oil. Another option is to use EP gear oil normally used in vehicle gearboxes and axles. The Extreme Pressure additives provide boundary lubrication at the molecular level and are very effective at preventing metal-to-metal contact. The only downside is EP oils have a pungent Sulphur smell.
 
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