Wednesday 0424hrs: South again.
I return to the ‘bent. Even in the darkness, I can detect that things the previous night were not merely wet. The entire bottom half of my bike is coated in what looks like river silt. I crack the worst of the silver grey carapace from the chain, get the links moving reasonably freely, and hop aboard for another 60 miles to Alston. Should be there around 1030hrs.
We cross the White Esk exiting the control, tracing its Eastern bank back into the glens. The rain continues, but has lost most of its anger by now. Having survived last night, the ongoing downpour doesn’t seem to register. It might be because I’m wrapped in plastic, or could be because the general lack of sleep from the previous few days now insulate me against most sensation.
The occasional crunch of gravel under tyre punctuates the otherwise monotonous rattling of my chain. The sound is so familiar that I am no more aware of it than I am the sound of blood rushing around my ears. Outside our tiny group, the world is a still frame.
The sun is due up around 4:35, but we don’t see it until the road lifts us another 100m beyond Allangill Burn, offering a view South East that takes in the summits of Carlesgill and Crumpton Hill. 7 miles on, our onward route will pass between these peaks, but for now we drop back down to rejoin the Esk through Bentpath.
Stray fingers of sunlight edge through the valleys ahead, pulling back on the peaks, slowly stretching open the horizon. Laid flat on the ‘bent, a foot from the floor, the experience conjures emotions of deliverance. The sky lightens, my mood is raised.
We continue South East, slowly filtering through glen and dale to arrive in Langholm at 0544. Even at this time, The Muckle Toonfolk are beginning their day’s activities. I had forgotten people did things other than cycle, and am so surprised that I stop and spend 6 minutes just watching them.
A quick exploration of Langholm’s former library gardens reveals little scope for a nature break, but does uncover a discarded arch, completed by a stonemason’s apprentice in the 1760s. Local lad, name of Thomas Telford, apparently. The absolute lack of signage suggests the town enjoys either a dearth of visitors or an abundance of such history.
Exiting on the A7 between Warb Law and Monument Hill, I am done with what Scotland has to throw at me. My mood is celebratory, and the loss of concentration immediately triggers a minor routing mishap, up the eastern bank of Ryehills, on a busy dual carriageway. Inadvisable excursions aside, I get one more short climb into Canonbie, and then its a gentle roll all the way down the hill, to a little brown sign, tucked into the hedge, “Welcome to ENGLAND”.
0639hrs. I’m South of the Border, West of the Sun. The towering giants that have crowded on every side these last few hundred miles finally retreat. Their rain cloaked peaks fall out of sight behind me as the landscape slowly unfurls, restoring the horizon to its rightful place, at eye level, and some distance hence.
I am glad to make it out. 30 miles behind me, riders making their way from Traquair to Eskdalemuir are fighting through the residue of last night’s assault. Photos later shared reveal the B709 is lost under standing water, cyclists blindly feeling their way along the camber at Ettrick, whilst alluvial detritus washes over hub and sprocket.
Mere drizzle for me though. I reel in Longtown, arriving via the celebrated 18th Century bridge, to cross the Esk one final time. From here, she will run West, joining Lyne and Eden, before finally losing herself to the churn of the Irish Sea. I continue South East on long straight roads, on through Smithfield, on through Newtown. Getting a little twistier now as Cumbria regains her confidence. A bleep from the GPS at Brampton offers my first route instruction in England, pitching me into a series of fells and pikes to my right.
A rise in the gradient lifts me to the A69, then snakes, slow and steady to Milton, Kirkhouse, Hallbankgate. I am checking off towns from the way up now. Cold Fell Pike swings up above me as I sneak under Tindale, a sharp climb to Midgeholme, Halton-lea-gate, Lambley. The road clambers around Byers Pike, threading me into a hidden valley alongside the Pennine Way.
I filter South, through Slaggyford and Kirkhaugh, the road pinched in with the South Tynedale Railway by Knarsdale Forest, Grey Nag, and Pike Rigg. Suddenly I’m in Raise, and from there a short hop across the river into Alston.
As I pile onto the cobbles at the bottom of Front Street, I stumble into the back wheels of other cyclists. Our pace aboard the bikes is dismissed as an irrelevance, when it turns out we all walk at the same speed. We trudge up together with only the very occasional die-hard cranking past us at speeds of up to 4mph.
Exiting Alston towards Yad Moss a few moments after 10, the last 3 and a half kilometres of this leg lift me at an average 6% to 420m, the lower me, carefully, into the control some 20 minutes later.