Wednesday 2213hrs: Depart Coxwold. Bed in 60 miles
No joy with the cables, so its a very slow start as I unwind myself from 3 sides of the building before exiting back to the crossroads. Once on the open road, I know I will only have a short sprint before the climbs get underway. I’m pushing hard to make the most of this tiny flat.
Left at the crossroads, and the Howardian rollercoaster begins. Down to the bottom of the village, up and over in darkness, dip into Newburgh Grange, accelerating hard. Long climb now, past the priory, away from the warmth of town, tired muscles digging hard into the hillside. 70m above, 80, 100, 140, 148, 150. I crest under trees, blind to the view ahead.
Pass Oulston on the drop, lose the moon as I fall, but keep the speed, pushing on into the shadows, always swelling, up and down. The road writhes left and right, but I stay with her, clattering towards the double summit at Crayke. Back down in the 70s now, 80, 90, 107. That’s the first. 90. 100, 105, 110, and I’m done. Down and out, braking hard for the T Junction, then a long run out into the Vale of York.
The moon is restored. Long flat roads take me through Stillington, Strensil, Towthorpe.
Its dark out here. 90 degree turns steal rear lights from sight. The cold bites into my legs, slips under the waistband of my windproof, edges along my wrists. Silvery fingers trying to take hold of my core. I begin to feel very vulnerable. I miss the high hedges of Kent, cocooning my training rides from the wind and the unknown. The road out here is bordered only by darkness, heather moorlands extending to my left, black fields that run right up to the roadside.
A lonely streetlamp offers a shallow pool of light, and I dive in, seeking reassurance. Rather than warm me, I am instead reminded of the opaque shadows that crowd its frail little arc. I lean forwards and angle the Cyo up, but this only gives me a better view of the void.
The route onward becomes a slightly panicked run from lamp to lamp. I will myself not to think of An American Werewolf in London, and in doing so, fail utterly. A zip tie fails, and I spend a few minutes in total isolation, fumbling in the middle of an unlit road. Cold sweat clamps my movements. I can hear my heartbeat...
After 3 minutes, I have not been eaten. A group of randonneurs swing into sight and soar past, freewheels chattering like crickets. At the back, what looks like Darth Stuart’s Ratcatcher. Eager to avoid being left in the dark, I quickly patch up the chainline, and give chase.
They have maybe an 8 minute headstart. As I begin to put in some serious effort, I find myself again washed over by the sweet scent of Ashgill. No, deeper than that... Alston. My subconscious is whirring, legs doing the thinking. Where have I smelt this? Fruits. Citrus. Not so much the aroma that’s distinctive, as the warm feeling of contentment it conjurs. Deep in the middle of this dark, dark, night, I find myself transported to a sunny August day. The heady sweetness of cider, spilt from glasses raised in friendly salute. Ice chilled pools evaporating from the unpolished wood of coarse pub furniture, baked dry by a high sun.
I can almost hear the glasses chime as they bump together. But no. Something else. Deeper still. They’re not glasses. Fishing floats? No. Jam jars, chinking together, in a bath-tub. Where have I seen this?
Eskdalemuir. Suddenly, it comes back to me. A memory in third person perspective. Our host for the night apologising about her bathroom. The tub decommissioned by floating jam jars. Soaking off the labels. Re-using the little glass pots to bottle massage oils. She made her own.
...And the padded table I used as a bed was their theatre. In those few blissful hours, whilst I grabbed some much needed sleep, my body restored itself, drawing flavours from the foam, absorbing their scent. Skin once macerated by the storm now lovingly wrapped in essential oils. Every time I build up a sweat, out wicks some more. As the night turns to drizzle, I realise I am not only scented. I am waterproof.
I am still laughing as I pass through Warthill, up onto a little ridge at Holtby and earn a very brief dash along what feels like a proper road. Defined borders tame the moors, and my new found confidence carries me off to the East, through the darkness to Dunnington, Elvington, chasing tail lights over the river and into the East Riding of Yorkshire.
Mid way towards Sutton upon Derwent, I finally catch the group infront, introducing myself to the recumbent back-marker, Patrick. He’s on fine form, but the war between schedule and sleep has left him a little wobbly. I figure its about half twelve now, and rough calcs at the last control suggest we’ve probably got another two hours to go. If it was hard to measure progress on these roads by day, its almost impossible by night. We ride together for company. For encouragement. For protection.
The pack are suffering mechanicals, and pull up under a lamp post marking a right turn. I’m still stuck in top, and have to choose between riding on alone, or stopping at the roadside knowing my only exit is via a 53/11 gear. I give a few exploratory pedal strokes, but the black void of the road ahead threatens to suck me in.
I decide that if the spirit of audax is self sufficiency, it needs a footnote to say, “best served in groups”. I spend the next few minutes scribing loops onto the tarmac, chasing the cyo’s little orb back and forth at 2mph. It is a good test of balance.
When we resume, there are five lights driving back the cavity. We pedal in unison for the next ten miles. Distances measured relative to each other. In the small hours, we come across a group of Americans, clustered together under the light of a substation. It is reassuring to think of these pockets of riders, dotted along the route. They keep their own pace as we bump onwards over the level crossing at Howden, but there is never more than 500 metres between us for the rest of the leg.
The darkness retreats as we approach the Ouse at Boothferry. The artefacts of humanity begin to spill across the landscape once more. We cross the river on a 1920s swing bridge, steel girders breaking the moonlight into morse code. Downstream to our left, we can pick out the silhouette of an even greater structure, concrete spans lifting a mile of the M62 some 30 metres above the river. Man is king once again. Although we take the smallest road from the roundabout on the South bank, I know that I’m no longer scared of the dark.
As we approach Airmyn, Patrick’s rear light betrays a kink in his trail. I drop back momentarily, assuming he is repositioning in his seat. The pattern repeats a couple of times, and then ever so smoothly, he drifts towards the left hand side of the road, connects with the grassy verge, and bails onto his side. He goes down without a noise, without even a break in his cadence. We pull up around him, front markers looping back, but he’s already getting up.
“Fell asleep”.
We regroup, and set off again. Tiredness masks the distance. The roads here are a little big for navigating like this. Back along the Aire, through Rawcliffe, under the motorway, across the canal, out of East Riding and into Doncaster. When we reach the level crossing at Moorends, I know we are almost there. A mile later, playing grounds appear on our right. Follow them, right, right, right again, Thorne Rugby Club.
Routesheet for this leg