biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
sounds like you are volunteering
Restoring a Carlton - Date Informaton and Guidance Please
- Thread starter Pumpman
- Start date
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Spokesmann
Keeping the Carlton and Sun names alive...
- Location
- Plymouth, Devon
I have room for another project soon...
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
glad to hear it
OP
OP
Pumpman
Senior Member
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all your inputs. I will not try to answer specific points with references and quotes (as that would probably overstretch my computer skills).
It’s looking like the late 60s and it looks very much like Shaun’s Cobra, even down to the 5-gear bike with provision for 10-gears (brazed front-changer cable stop). The age seems to be confirmed by Spokesmann’s frame number information? As the list shows T for 1966 and Y for 1967, I assume that the prefixes U,V,W and/or X would have been used in between. The inconsistency seems to be that my number is on the bottom bracket, rather than on the rear drop-out. I am a little confused by the presence of two numbers – the 7-digit one as well as the 4-digit one with the letter prefix – but a little remaining mystery is not a problem. I could not see any other numbers on the drop-outs or seat tubes – but I will take another closer look.
The general consensus for the restoration seems to be a clean-up-and-go. That is pretty close to my view. I will probably aim for a generally silver-chrome bike (as now), but I quite fancy highlighting the lugs with red or blue lining, along with twill tape and maybe outer cables of the same colour. I will try to re-use most of the components; when I change some, I will aim for them to be “in keeping” with the bike’s age, rather than aiming to match the original.
I am keen to increase to 10 gears – the cable-stop is already there on the down-tube. There seem to be a number of suitable front-changers coming up on Ebay and I am tempted to change the rear derailleur too. The obvious choice would be Huret, but I am also considering Simplex (for personal nostalgic reasons). The existing chainwheel will not take a second ring so I will need to change the complete chainset. I have a fairly open mind between cottered steel and cotterless alloy, so I’ll just keep my eyes open for either.
As my most active cycling days were in my mid-teens in the 1960s, I am very comfortable with bikes of that era and a few years earlier. The braking qualities of wet steel rims are not an issue for me (and may be a less of a problem than the instant stop of my hybrid’s disc brakes). The wheels seem fairly true, so I will would like to re-use them if possible – but I must admit I could easily be tempted by alloys.
The other suggested change is the saddle. Yes, I will go for leather – mainly for my comfort.
So, the main thing will be the clean-up. Can anyone offer suggestions for the chrome frame? I would have assumed T-cut and/or metal polish as a start, followed by a coat or two of clear lacquer. In other threads, I have seen references to using WD40 and to Aluminium foil. Can anyone shed light on these techniques?
Once again, thanks to all of you for your comments.
Thanks for all your inputs. I will not try to answer specific points with references and quotes (as that would probably overstretch my computer skills).
It’s looking like the late 60s and it looks very much like Shaun’s Cobra, even down to the 5-gear bike with provision for 10-gears (brazed front-changer cable stop). The age seems to be confirmed by Spokesmann’s frame number information? As the list shows T for 1966 and Y for 1967, I assume that the prefixes U,V,W and/or X would have been used in between. The inconsistency seems to be that my number is on the bottom bracket, rather than on the rear drop-out. I am a little confused by the presence of two numbers – the 7-digit one as well as the 4-digit one with the letter prefix – but a little remaining mystery is not a problem. I could not see any other numbers on the drop-outs or seat tubes – but I will take another closer look.
The general consensus for the restoration seems to be a clean-up-and-go. That is pretty close to my view. I will probably aim for a generally silver-chrome bike (as now), but I quite fancy highlighting the lugs with red or blue lining, along with twill tape and maybe outer cables of the same colour. I will try to re-use most of the components; when I change some, I will aim for them to be “in keeping” with the bike’s age, rather than aiming to match the original.
I am keen to increase to 10 gears – the cable-stop is already there on the down-tube. There seem to be a number of suitable front-changers coming up on Ebay and I am tempted to change the rear derailleur too. The obvious choice would be Huret, but I am also considering Simplex (for personal nostalgic reasons). The existing chainwheel will not take a second ring so I will need to change the complete chainset. I have a fairly open mind between cottered steel and cotterless alloy, so I’ll just keep my eyes open for either.
As my most active cycling days were in my mid-teens in the 1960s, I am very comfortable with bikes of that era and a few years earlier. The braking qualities of wet steel rims are not an issue for me (and may be a less of a problem than the instant stop of my hybrid’s disc brakes). The wheels seem fairly true, so I will would like to re-use them if possible – but I must admit I could easily be tempted by alloys.
The other suggested change is the saddle. Yes, I will go for leather – mainly for my comfort.
So, the main thing will be the clean-up. Can anyone offer suggestions for the chrome frame? I would have assumed T-cut and/or metal polish as a start, followed by a coat or two of clear lacquer. In other threads, I have seen references to using WD40 and to Aluminium foil. Can anyone shed light on these techniques?
Once again, thanks to all of you for your comments.
Spokesmann
Keeping the Carlton and Sun names alive...
- Location
- Plymouth, Devon
Saddle - Brooks B5N or Wrights W3N. Ralight/Carlton 3-pin detachable steel cottered chainset can be found on Ebay from time to time, evern better with the longer BB spindle too!
Front and rear mech on these would have been Simplex, a good black body Prestige would be ideal for the back end.
I use a mixture of tin foil to rub down surface rust and corrosion and finish of with Autosol metal polish.
Look forward to seeing more!
Front and rear mech on these would have been Simplex, a good black body Prestige would be ideal for the back end.
I use a mixture of tin foil to rub down surface rust and corrosion and finish of with Autosol metal polish.
Look forward to seeing more!
midlife
Guru
Cleaning up chrome is a matter of personal choice.Soap and water followed by tinfoil (plus vinegar if any about) on the rusty bits and then Autosol. No need to laquer if its kept dry. Black body / red decal simplex prestige would look good but don't always come up on e-bay so keep an eye out for Huret Svelto or Campagnolo Valentino as well.
Shaun
Shaun
Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
lots of Carlton fans on here.
Indeed, although these days they don't get so excited about an ex Jimmy Savile Carlton when one crops up.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
No and they don't mention Adidas running gear that often either, but didn't he appear with several high-ranking policemen extolling safety issues in the 60s-70s
Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
He may have done, but in the past restoring old policemen was never anywhere near as popular as tidying up old Carltons.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Most of them were so p*ssed that they didn't need restoring they were already pickled/preserved.As for Carltons I first rebuilt mine in 85 when it went to full 105 transmission and handlaced wheels but it was 17 years old so deserved it.
wonderdog
Senior Member
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
I'm coming in a little late on this one but I bought a Cobra here in Australia late 2014 and have been slowly refurbing it. It's now a very comfortable rider. Came to me as a real time warp with, as best as I can figure, original Rigida steel 27"rims (still with period Michelins), bolt-up Normandy hubs, Huret front and rear mechs, Weinmann Vanquer centrepulls with white Carlton hoods in lovely nick, ATAX stem and AGDA 28A saddle which came back to life with liberal applications of saddle dressing, TD Cross 5 speed freewheel and steel cottered cranks. I've converted the hubs to q/r with Maillard skewers laced to Mavic clinchers, replaced the steel seatpost with a fluted Raleigh alloy number, sourced a NOS Svelto rear mech and (Stronglight 49s being ridiculously expensive) fitted a period Nervar bottom end with Atom 600 pedals and an Atom 5 speed cluster while I rebuild the TDC, which required much heat and a crowbar to get it off the hub ... fortunately I had a spare hub because there wasn't much left by the time I'd finished. I also fitted a set of Mafac bars because the originals were so narrow there wasn't much room for my hands. The chrome frame and the riveted on badge were in magnificent condition and I repainted the tube ends with a pretty close approximation of the (ten speed) blue and black livery. New transfers and Weinmann brake blocks and we were off for a shakedown run which turned into a four hour ramble it felt so good. I'll post some pix with the frame number (left rear dropout) etc. when the system decides I've been around long enuff.
wonderdog
Senior Member
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
I posted this pic elsewhere ... but here's the Cobra as mentioned above
ulnuk
Regular
- Location
- Daet Camarines Norte Philippines
Attachments
ulnuk
Regular
- Location
- Daet Camarines Norte Philippines
Good day Sir, can you help me with these numbers on my carlton's rear dropout 64391 or is it an S or G 4391. Thank you so much.
