Replacing cantilever brakes with calipers

[Davidc]

I'm fed up with the cantilever front brake on my Dawes Horizon.

The usual techniques for stopping them squealing and juddering all work. For at least 10 miles. Then the thing squeals and judders again. I've never had this with caliper brakes (or V brakes for that matter).

The hole in the frame for fitting caliper brakes (and mudguards) is there. The same levers should work OK with either. Can anyone think of a good reason not to change over?

Has anyone done this change?

(Roll on the day when there are low cost disc brakes that will fit sensibly).

 

[TheDoctor]

I've done this. Long-drop dual pivots work pretty well IME.
You'll need to use nut mounting ones (which are a bit thin on the ground these days) or drill the mounting holes for allen key mounting ones.

 

[Davidc]

I've done this. Long-drop dual pivots work pretty well IME.
You'll need to use nut mounting ones (which are a bit thin on the ground these days) or drill the mounting holes for allen key mounting ones.

That's pretty much what I was thinking of. They'll have to be long drop on that bike because it has clearance for 37 tyres with mudguards.

Did you get rid of all the cantilever ills (juddering and noise etc.) and did you keep the original levers?

 

[TheDoctor]

I ended up with smooth, powerful and quiet brakes. [/smug mode]
I used one-or-other of the Shimano ones.
Tektro was fine on the back, but a bit lacking on the front. They may have got better since then, I suppose.

And yes, same levers. There seem to be V-Brake Specific levers, and Everything Else levers.

 

[heretic]

You could probably get decent results just by getting some new (wide profile) cantis. The juddering's often down to the mounting bush getting sloppy. Another way is to fit an uphanger for the cable. It cuts out cable flexing with a feedback from the forks/headset.

 

[Zoiders]

Try mini-v brakes, a shorter armed V brake..

They should drop on and run with your existing levers.

 

[TheDoctor]

I don'y know about the OP, but my cantis were utter sh1te and a painus anus to set up.
I got dual pivots on there over 15 years ago, and I'd never go back. They just *work*

 

[heretic]

Sorry Zoiders, mini Vs generally only have clearance for 25C + guards. The OP stated 37mm somewhere upthread.

 

[Zoiders]

Sorry Zoiders, mini Vs generally only have clearance for 25C + guards. The OP stated 37mm somewhere upthread.

He said the frame has clearance for 37mm and a guard, that doesn't mean he has to use a 37.

Minis can be more genorous than 25 plus a guard, it depends on the brand, it's a try it and see, some canits will struggle with 37 plus a guard as well.

Full arm V's are a faff with drops, it means new levers or a travel adapter of some kind.

 

[Alun]

I tried some tektro mini V's with 28mm tyres and guards and they fitted OK, looked like they would fit bigger tyres as well. However I had to set them so close to the rims that any run out caused the brakes to rub and I couldn't remove the wheel without backing off the adjusters. that aside they were powerful brakes with no judder or squeal. Have you tried wide cantis? better than the narrow ones but still a bit of a fiddle to setup.

 

[Davidc]

Thanks people.

I looked at the spec for Shimano V brakes, and also did some measurements on the ones on my MTB. I don't think the existing Shimano ST3300 levers on the Horizon would cope with them - too much cable needs to move.

I haven't met mini Vs but will look them up.

My original thinking was what TheDoctor said - to use long drop side pull caliper brakes, which is what my last few road & touring bikes have had. I've never had the hassle with them that I've had with the Tektro Oryx cantilevers fitted to this one. They are the one component that's given me grief and after 18 months they're for the chop when I can afford to replace them.

The tyres fitted at present are 32mm, the bike is spec'd for 37 and I don't want to change that. The important dimension though is the distance from the mounting hole in the fork crown to the braking surface on the rim. The piece of paper I've noted it on is outside, but I know it's enough that I definitely need long drop brakes if I go that way.

 

[mickle]

The noise is caused by worn or otherwise wobbly bushes. Cantilever brakes are more powerful than calipers. The answer is to buy some decent cantis. Thorn seem to have an unlimited supply of Suntour XC Pro/ Ltd/ canti's which really can't be beat for build quality, durability and performance.

Probably avoid the SE (self energising) versions unless you absolutely sure they are what you want.

 

[Davidc]

I know they were good, but SJS now seem only to have the SE left, which I don't want.

I can't see that there's much difference in overall MA in the Tektro cantis and the Shimano R450 caliper I've been looking at but can be persuaded that there's a difference in effectiveness.

 

[Zoiders]

If you were feeling flush and you can find set on the bay Magura did make a drop bar version of their hydraulic rim brake.

They are like rocking horse now poo but they will stop you dead.

 

[Davidc]

It'll have to wait until mid February (just had to pay for a central heating repair) but I'll try to remember to post what I do and how it works.