Removing pedals - is this as simple as it looks?

[marzjennings]

Thanks - I'll give it a go!

I would not remove the cranks just to clean the bike and that's not something I've ever done or seen done. My cranks may come off the bike maybe a couple times for regreasing, but that's it. If the cranks are spinning freely and there's no unwanted 'jiggle' in the bottom bracket then I would leave them be. If you want clean chain rings remove the chain guard and clean the teeth with an old tooth brush or something.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

I would not remove the cranks just to clean the bike and that's not something I've ever done or seen done. My cranks may come off the bike maybe a couple times for regreasing, but that's it. If the cranks are spinning freely and there's no unwanted 'jiggle' in the bottom bracket then I would leave them be. If you want clean chain rings remove the chain guard and clean the teeth with an old tooth brush or something.

The problem is the chain guard - I cannot get the mud and general muck off the area behind it without removing it - and I can;t remove it because the crank is in the way

ALthough it does seem a bit extreme so I think I will have another go before I try removing cranks!

 

[marzjennings]

The problem is the chain guard - I cannot get the mud and general muck off the area behind it without removing it - and I can;t remove it because the crank is in the way

ALthough it does seem a bit extreme so I think I will have another go before I try removing cranks!

Also, given it's an e-bike it won't be a simple crank set, I can imagine the chain ring is attached to the motor and the crank spindle passes through some free wheel type mechanism. If it were my bike I'd spray in some de-greaser or cleaning product every 100 miles, hose (low pressure) out as much crap as possible and clean and lube the chain. Or maybe consider permanently removing the chain guard. just not have one at all.

 

[Pale Rider]

The problem is the chain guard - I cannot get the mud and general muck off the area behind it without removing it - and I can;t remove it because the crank is in the way

ALthough it does seem a bit extreme so I think I will have another go before I try removing cranks!

Wuss.

If the job goes to plan, you will have the cranks off in a few minutes.

 

[swee'pea99]

Best way to remember the threading is to turn the spanner towards the back of the bike to unscrew on both sides.

"Right is right, left is wrong"

 

[C R]

Ahh, obviously then I only deal in old fashioned pedals - !

Same here.

 

[kynikos]

Why? Just why? (Bike the right way up.) Trying to find that extra challenge?

No - the point is that the 'rule' doesn't work. You either spin the spanner clockwise or anti-clockwise "turning the spanner towards the back of the bike" depends where the spanner is to start with.

 

[rogerzilla]

The correct torque for fitting pedals is actually quite high - about 45Nm.

 

[Ajax Bay]

@ebikeerwidnes Your right hand crank will come off without any difficulty with an 8mm (I think) allen key, unscrewing 'normally'. The pedal can stay on. There should be no obstruction to removing the chainguard to offer you unfettered access to the chainring for cleaning. Refitting the crank will also be straightforward (NB at 180 degrees to the left crank ) and then just tighten the hex-socket headed bolt tight tight (I'd use a smidgen of grease on its thread). And ride/motor on.
Ignore the irrelevant (to you) chat/noise on here about removing pedals.
As well as artistic talent @kynikos clearly has a grip of things, which is just as well.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Right - firstly THANKS to everyone for their comments - it has been very useful

Based on all this I have more idea of how things work so I have just been out fiddling again.

Turns out that I needed to go back to the original problems - which were
a) the area behind the chain guard was full of muck as it could never get cleaned properly - and as I ride on canal paths a lot it was covered in a mixture of oil, muck and 'stuff'.
b) A nasty creak from the left pedal under power
As I had worked out that the chain guard would not come off without removing the cranks then removing them seemed like it was needed for both problems
Hence the post

Anyway - with more knowledge gathered on here thanks to you lot - I have been able to look better
I remember thinking it was weird that I needed to take stuff like cranks off to remove a bit of plastic - but that was a while ago. SOmeone commented the same thing- so I have looked closer
Now - I have a problem that I tend to be very gentle and careful with things if I am not sure how things work. Probably partly due to working with computers all my life - and their insides have a lot of delicate bits!
ANyway - knowing a bit more I have gone back and found 2 hidden plastic clips that snapped out with some extra persuasions - and suddenly the whole thing can now been cleaned.
So - it is now far cleaner but tomorrow I can scrub it all properly - and re-lube the chain while I am at it!

The creaky left crank is still a worry - but I will start a new thread if I need it

Thanks again to all

 

[Milkfloat]

Acknowledging the jeopardy of accusations of pinhead dancing here, "with the spanner at the 9 o'clock position on the left crank, [and standing on it]" is not "going towards the back the of bike". The force is vertical. "Plenty of people"? Really? Do you watch this stuff for a living? Chat Chat chat.

I think you are being a bit funny, which is most unlike you. After the vertical it goes to the back of the bike, and at 8:59 it would immediately be going to the back of the bike as well as down. Yes, I have seen many people do this incorrectly, I used to volunteer in a cycle cooperative where we would lend out tools to many, many people. For once, your advice is not correct.

 

[DaveReading]

I blame the invention of digital watches.

Before that, most people understood "clockwise" and "anti-clockwise".