Removing pedals - is this as simple as it looks?

[Ajax Bay]

Pound to a penny the crank bolts are normally threaded, pulling the spline interface together, @ebikeerwidnes . There is no precession issue (cf pedals).

This line [turn the spanner towards the back of the bike to unscrew on both sides] gets trotted out a lot, and its complete and utter bollocks as it depends on which way up the spanner is. It is more confusing than remembering the left hand pedal is reverse threaded.

The 'remove pedal' sub-topic is sort of OT (for what the OP actually meant) but who in their right mind tries to remove a pedal from below with a long spanner. The spanner arm is always above the horizontal (to start with) unless the bike fettler is attempting to dual task and getting some yoga in simultaneously. With the bike the right way up and the spanner jaws down the mantra @Cycleops reiterated is very useful and will only confuse those who revel in confusion.

 

[Milkfloat]

Pound to a penny the crank bolts are normally threaded, pulling the spline interface together, @ebikeerwidnes . There is no precession issue (cf pedals).

The 'remove pedal' sub-topic is sort of OT (for what the OP actually meant) but who in their right mind tries to remove a pedal from below with a long spanner. The spanner arm is always above the horizontal (to start with) unless the bike fettler is attempting to dual task and getting some yoga in simultaneously. With the bike the right way up and the spanner jaws down the mantra @Cycleops reiterated is very useful and will only confuse those who revel in confusion.

It does not have to be down below. I have seen plenty of people, with the spanner at the 9 o'clock position on the left crank, stand on the spanner with their full weight to 'undo' the pedal. This is going towards the back the of bike as suggested above. Going towards the back of the bike is great advice as long as they are also told they need to be going 'over the top' to get there.

 

[T4tomo]

Pound to a penny the crank bolts are normally threaded, pulling the spline interface together, @ebikeerwidnes . There is no precession issue (cf pedals).

The 'remove pedal' sub-topic is sort of OT (for what the OP actually meant) but who in their right mind tries to remove a pedal from below with a long spanner. The spanner arm is always above the horizontal (to start with) unless the bike fettler is attempting to dual task and getting some yoga in simultaneously. With the bike the right way up and the spanner jaws down the mantra @Cycleops reiterated is very useful and will only confuse those who revel in confusion.

[its well off topic] but if you decent leverage, then starting with the spanner close to the crank (wherever the crank is pointing, but 3 o'clock or 9 oclock are good positions) and squeezing the spanner and crank together with two hands is a useful technique, that doesn't result in smashed knuckles from a slipping pedal spanner. Clearly you start the spanner in such a position relative to the crank that it moves in the desired clockwise or anti clockwise direction.

don't assume everyone wields a bike spanner in the same manner as you

 

[Ajax Bay]

I have seen plenty of people, with the spanner at the 9 o'clock position on the left crank, stand on the spanner with their full weight to 'undo' the pedal. This is going towards the back the of bike as suggested above.

Acknowledging the jeopardy of accusations of pinhead dancing here, "with the spanner at the 9 o'clock position on the left crank, [and standing on it]" is not "going towards the back the of bike". The force is vertical. "Plenty of people"? Really? Do you watch this stuff for a living? Chat Chat chat.

 

[Pale Rider]

Pound to a penny the crank bolts are normally threaded, pulling the spline interface together, @ebikeerwidnes . There is no precession issue (cf pedals).

Long time since I did a Bosch bike, but I am all but certain the crank bolts are normally threaded.

 

[Mr Celine]

This is because if you don't, you could put the crank with the left hand pedal thread back on the 'wrong' side.

That wouldn't be a disaster, but might cause problems if you come to remove the pedals and find all the sage advice about threads on here doesn't work.

There's a risk that the pedals might loosen. One of the reasons pedals are hard to remove is the action of pedalling tightens them.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Long time since I did a Bosch bike, but I am all but certain the crank bolts are normally threaded.

Any way of telling other just trying it??

 

[Pale Rider]

Any way of telling other just trying it??

Not really, but @Ajax Bay is a skilled fettler, so I think we've pretty much nailed it down.

The bolts aren't usually very tight, so with a bit of feel you ought to be able to tell if one is not coming undone.

Obviously, you need only worry about the left hand side.

There's a risk that the pedals might loosen. One of the reasons pedals are hard to remove is the action of pedalling tightens them.

Someone was bound to post that, but is it really much of a thing?

I've not had the chance to knowingly test it, but I doubt a correctly tightened pedal would come undone, whichever way you spin the cranks.

 

[simongt]

I use a 15mm. spanner to get pedals off / on. Too much faff getting the hex key hole properly clean. Use the crank as a support for the first 'release' and then away you go - ! Provided the threads were properly greased after the last removal, should be a doddle. If not, carefully whack the spanner a few times with a nylon hammer to get the pedal to release.

 

[C R]

I use a 15mm. spanner to get pedals off / on. Too much faff getting the hex key hole properly clean. Use the crank as a support for the first 'release' and then away you go - ! Provided the threads were properly greased after the last removal, should be a doddle. If not carefully whack the spanner a few times with a nylon hammer to get the pedal to release.

The hex key hole is much harder to use than a spanner. However, there are pedals that only have the hex hole and no flats, progress...

 

[Pale Rider]

The hex key hole is much harder to use than a spanner. However, there are pedals that only have the hex hole and no flats, progress...

I had a pair of those.

I confused myself momentarily by thinking I would need to twist the allen key in the opposite direction because I was putting it in on the other side of the cranks.

 

[simongt]

However, there are pedals that only have the hex hole and no flats, progress...

Ahh, obviously then I only deal in old fashioned pedals - !

 

[Mr Celine]

Someone was bound to post that, but is it really much of a thing?

I've not had the chance to knowingly test it, but I doubt a correctly tightened pedal would come undone, whichever way you spin the cranks.

I doubt any of us have had a chance to test it as cycle pioneers either knew about precession or if they didn't they soon noticed their left pedals falling off and for this reason you don't find bikes with RH threads on both pedals.

 

[Pale Rider]

I doubt any of us have had a chance to test it as cycle pioneers either knew about precession or if they didn't they soon noticed their left pedals falling off and for this reason you don't find bikes with RH threads on both pedals.

I've had a couple of pedals come undone over the years.

Plenty of warning on both occasions, so I really can't get too vexed about it.

 

[simongt]

Not forgetting the wonderful 'Cycles Hirondelle Retro Direct' bike of 1925 with which, by dint of a clever set of sprockets and an 'interesting' chainline, you pedalled forwards for high gear and backwards for low gear - ! Simplicity eh - ?
Only minor problem was that of course, if you pedalled backwards for long enough, the pedals fell off - !