Reinforced wheel

[Spotty]

https://www.wheelcraft.net/

Not sure where you are in the world, but I'm sure there will be better options closer to you.

Thank you pal!

 

[Ajax Bay]

Hi all.
I recently bought myself a Trek Marlin 4 for commuting to work.
After a few months, it became clear that the rear hub could not cope with my weight (with a backpack and food I weigh 145 kg). Now I want to change it to something more reliable, probably even a new wheel. Can someone suggest a solution for my problem?
Wheel dimensions are 29 inches, current hub is Formula DC-3, 135x5mm QR.
Thank you in advance for your cooperation.

The OP does not say whether they've tried to adjust the hub's cup & cone bearings which I recommend as action 1.
The hub is:
Formula DC-31, alloy, 6-bolt, 6/7/8-speed freewheel, 135x5 mm QR (Rear)
Cup & cone, and I assume for 36 spokes. The Trek is 7sp so freehub an option.
Rims are 20mm internal width and, if used for a " long commute" I'd be interested to learn what tyres are fitted. With a 80+kg load the wider the better: >51mm (51-622)
So a replacement wheel spec can be informed by the above, in particular 135mm OLD, QR and either freewheel or 7sp freehub. Can be either 6-bolt or centre lock (for rotor) but makes sense to stick to 6-bolt so current rotor can be transferred.
People suggesting DT Swiss or Hope hubs might recognise that the wheel might cost more than the bike's value (current).
I note the bike itself is rated thus:

• Max Capacity: 136kg / 300lbs (including rider)

This load is roughly what a tandem rear wheel is designed for, so I'd be looking at that, and a 40 spoke count.

https://www.formulahubs.com/product.php?t=3

 

[Spotty]

The OP does not say whether they've tried to adjust the hub's cup & cone bearings which I recommend as action 1.
The hub is:
Formula DC-31, alloy, 6-bolt, 6/7/8-speed freewheel, 135x5 mm QR (Rear)
Cup & cone, and I assume for 36 spokes. The Trek is 7sp so freehub an option.
Rims are 20mm internal width and, if used for a " long commute" I'd be interested to learn what tyres are fitted. With a 80+kg load the wider the better: >51mm (51-622)
So a replacement wheel spec can be informed by the above, in particular 135mm OLD, QR and either freewheel or 7sp freehub. Can be either 6-bolt or centre lock (for rotor) but makes sense to stick to 6-bolt so current rotor can be transferred.
People suggesting DT Swiss or Hope hubs might recognise that the wheel might cost more than the bike's value (current).
I note the bike itself is rated thus:

• Max Capacity: 136kg / 300lbs (including rider)

This load is roughly what a tandem rear wheel is designed for, so I'd be looking at that, and a 40 spoke count.

View attachment 738032
https://www.formulahubs.com/product.php?t=3

I took my bike to a local garage. Let's see what they say.
P.S. my tyres are Continental Contact Urban

 

[Ajax Bay]

Why would you think a garage would know how to help?
On the side of the tyres, tell us what the figures are (eg 37-622). Or how wide are they?
What pressure are you running them?

 

[Big John]

the axle bends and breaks the bearings inside the hub, or so I'm told. squeaks appear and the wheel does not spin as freely as it did.

Try a solid axle? Infinitely cheaper than a Hope hub, as good as they are. The axle you have I believe is a QR one. Worth a try?

 

[Ajax Bay]

Yes a nutted solid axle is a 'strong' shout and in line with the bike's value. Replacing the QR axle is/would be straightforward for many but will be an LBS job for the OP. Of course that may not sort the bearings failure, being asked to carry a load above spec, but worth a try.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I took my bike to a local garage. Let's see what they say.
P.S. my tyres are Continental Contact Urban

You may as well take it to the local vet. The advice will be equally valuable.

The tyres are irrelevant in this conversation.